Māori settlements Archaeological evidence shows the first human (Māori) occupation of New Zealand occurred between 1250 and 1300 AD, There were also Māori settlements at
Whareakeake (Murdering Beach),
Pūrākaunui, Mapoutahi (Goat Island Peninsula) and Huriawa (
Karitane Peninsula) to the north, and at
Taieri Mouth and Otokia (
Henley) to the south, all inside the present boundaries of Dunedin.
Māori tradition tells first of a people called Kahui Tipua living in the area, then Te Rapuwai, semi-legendary but considered to be historical. The next arrivals were
Waitaha, followed by
Kāti Māmoe late in the 16th century and then
Kāi Tahu (
Ngāi Tahu in modern standard
Māori) who arrived in the mid-17th century. European accounts have often represented these successive influxes as "invasions", but modern scholarship has cast doubt on that view. They were probably migrations – like those of the Europeans – which incidentally resulted in bloodshed. The sealer
John Boultbee recorded in the late 1820s that the 'Kaika Otargo' (settlements around and near
Otago Harbour) were the oldest and largest in the south.
Early arrivals from Europe Lieutenant
James Cook stood off what is now the coast of Dunedin between 25 February 1770 and 5 March 1770, naming
Cape Saunders (on the
Otago Peninsula) and Saddle Hill. He reported penguins and seals in the vicinity, which led Australian, American and British
sealers to visit from the beginning of the 19th century. The early years of sealing saw a feud between sealers and local Māori from 1810 to 1823, the "
Sealers' War" sparked by an incident on Otago Harbour.
William Tucker became the first European to settle in the area – in 1815. Permanent European occupation dates from 1831, when the
Weller brothers of
New South Wales founded their
whaling station at Otago (present-day
Otakou) on the Otago Harbour. Epidemics severely reduced the Māori population. By the late 1830s, the Harbour had become an international whaling port. Wright & Richards started a whaling station at
Karitane in 1837 and Sydney-born
Johnny Jones established a farming settlement and a
mission station (the South Island's first) at
Waikouaiti in 1840. The settlements at Karitane and Waikouaiti have endured, making modern Dunedin one of the longest-standing European-settled territories in New Zealand. Early in 1844, the
Deborah, captained by Thomas Wing and carrying (among others) his wife Lucy and a representative of the
New Zealand Company,
Frederick Tuckett, sailed south from
Nelson to determine the location of a planned
Free Church settlement. After inspecting several areas around the eastern coast of the South Island, Tuckett selected the site which would become known as Dunedin. (Tuckett rejected the site of what would become
Christchurch, as he felt the ground around the
Avon River / Ōtākaro was swampy.) The Lay Association of the
Free Church of Scotland, through a company called the
Otago Association, founded Dunedin at the head of Otago Harbour in 1848 as the principal town of its special settlement. The name "Dunedin" comes from
Dùn Èideann, the
Scottish Gaelic name for
Edinburgh, the capital of
Scotland.
Charles Kettle the city's surveyor, instructed to emulate the characteristics of Edinburgh, produced a striking, "Romantic" town-planning design. There resulted both grand and quirky streets, as the builders struggled and sometimes failed to construct his bold vision across the challenging landscape. Captain
William Cargill (1784–1860), a veteran of the
Napoleonic Wars, served as the secular leader of the new colony. The Reverend
Thomas Burns (1796–1871), a nephew of the poet
Robert Burns, provided spiritual guidance. By the end of the 1850s, around 12,000 Scots had emigrated to Dunedin, many from the industrial
lowlands. In the 1860s,
Ross Creek Reservoir was created so as to serve Dunedin's need for water. The London-owned
Bank of Otago opened its doors in Dunedin in 1863, opened 12 branches throughout its region, then in 1873 merged with the new
National Bank of New Zealand also based in London and also operated from Dunedin but, true to its name, it rapidly expanded throughout New Zealand. Dunedin remained the principal local source of the nation's development capital until the
Second World War. Dunedin and the region industrialised and consolidated, and the
Main South Line connected the city with
Christchurch in 1878 and Invercargill in 1879. Otago Boys' High School was founded in 1863. The
Otago Museum opened in 1868. The
University of Otago, the oldest university in New Zealand, in 1869.
Otago Girls' High School was established in 1871. By 1874, Dunedin and its suburbs had become New Zealand's largest city with a population of 29,832 displacing Auckland's 27,840 residents to second place. A major innovation for the city's rapidly expanding economy was the foundation of the
Union Company, a shipping line founded by
James Mills in Dunedin in 1875, with the backing of Scottish shipbuilder
Peter Denny. The line became the largest in the Southern Hemisphere, and by the 1890s dominated shipping along its
San Francisco-
Auckland-
Sydney route. Competition from the American line
Matson, Inc. after the
annexation of Hawaii threatened Union Company's dominance and forced them to switch the Auckland stop for
Wellington-
Rarotonga-
Papeete. Between 1881 and 1957, Dunedin was home to
cable trams, being both one of the first and last such systems in the world. Early in the 1880s the inauguration of the frozen meat industry, with the first shipment leaving from
Port Chalmers in 1882, saw the beginning of a later great national industry. The first successful commercial shipment of frozen meat from New Zealand to the United Kingdom was on
the Dunedin in 1881. After ten years of gold rushes the economy slowed but
Julius Vogel's immigration and development scheme brought thousands more, especially to Dunedin and Otago, before recession set in again in the 1880s. In these first and second times of prosperity, many institutions and businesses were established, New Zealand's first daily newspaper,
art school,
medical school and
public art gallery. The
Dunedin Public Art Gallery was among these new foundations. It had been actively promulgated by artist
William Mathew Hodgkins. There was also a remarkable architectural flowering producing many substantial and ornamental buildings.
R. A. Lawson's
First Church of Otago and
Knox Church are notable examples, as are buildings by
Maxwell Bury and
F. W. Petre. The other visual arts also flourished under the leadership of
W. M. Hodgkins. The city's landscape and burgeoning townscape were vividly portrayed by
George O'Brien (1821–1888). From the mid-1890s, the economy revived. Institutions such as the Otago Settlers Museum (now renamed as
Toitū Otago Settlers Museum) and the
Hocken Collections—the first of their kind in New Zealand—were founded. More notable buildings such as the
Railway Station and
Olveston were erected. New energy in the visual arts represented by
G. P. Nerli culminated in the career of
Frances Hodgkins.
Early modern era By 1900, Dunedin was no longer the country's biggest city. Influence and activity moved north to the other centres ("the drift north"), a trend which continued for much of the following century. Despite this, the university continued to expand, and a student quarter became established. At the same time, people started to notice Dunedin's mellowing, the ageing of its grand old buildings, with writers like E. H. McCormick pointing out its atmospheric charm. In 1901 the British royals, the Duke and Duchess of Cornwall and York toured Dunedin. Dunedin grew during the early 20th-century via annexation of surrounding municipalities — between 1904 and 1916 Dunedin annexed the boroughs of
Caversham,
South Dunedin,
North East Valley,
Maori Hill,
Roslyn, and
Mornington as well as the
Bay Town District. In 1963
West Harbour Borough was annexed by Dunedin and in 1968 it annexed the entire
Peninsula County. In the 1930s and early 1940s a new generation of artists such as
M. T. (Toss) Woollaston,
Doris Lusk, Anne Hamblett,
Colin McCahon and
Patrick Hayman once again represented the best of the country's talent. The Second World War saw the dispersal of these painters, but not before McCahon had met a very youthful poet,
James K. Baxter, in a central city studio. Numerous large companies had been established in Dunedin, many of which became national leaders. Late among them was
Fletcher Construction, founded by Sir
James Fletcher in the early 20th century.
Kempthorne Prosser, established in 1879 in Stafford Street, was the largest fertiliser and drug manufacturer in the country for over 100 years.
G. Methven, a metalworking and tap manufacturer based in
South Dunedin, was also a leading firm, as was
H. E. Shacklock, an iron founder and appliance manufacturer later taken over by the Auckland concern
Fisher and Paykel. The
Mosgiel Woollens was another Victorian Dunedin foundation.
Hallensteins was the colloquial name of a menswear manufacturer and national retail chain, while the DIC and
Arthur Barnett were department stores, the former a nationwide concern. Coulls, Somerville Wilkie—later part of the
Whitcoulls group—had its origins in Dunedin in the 19th century. There were also the
National Mortgage and Agency Company of New Zealand,
Wright Stephensons Limited, the Union Steamship Company and the National Insurance Company and the Standard Insurance Company among many others, which survived into the 20th century.
Post-war developments After the
Second World War prosperity and population growth revived, although Dunedin trailed as the fourth 'main centre'. A generation reacting against
Victorianism started demolishing its buildings and many were lost, notably
William Mason's
Stock exchange in 1969. (
Dunedin Stock Exchange building) Although the university continued to expand, the city's population contracted, notably from 1976 to 1981. This was a culturally vibrant time with the university's new privately endowed arts fellowships bringing writers including
James K Baxter,
Ralph Hotere,
Janet Frame and
Hone Tuwhare to the city. During the 1980s Dunedin's
popular music scene blossomed, with many acts, such as
The Chills,
The Clean,
The Verlaines and
Straitjacket Fits, gaining national and international recognition. The term "The
Dunedin sound" was coined to describe the 1960s-influenced, guitar-led music which flourished at the time. Bands and musicians are still playing and recording in many styles. By 1990,
population decline had steadied and slow growth occurred thereafter with Dunedin re-inventing itself as a 'heritage city' with its main streets refurbished in the
Victorian style.
R. A. Lawson's Municipal Chambers (
Dunedin Town Hall) in
the Octagon were handsomely restored. The city was also recognised as a centre of excellence in tertiary education and research. The university's and polytechnic's growth accelerated. Dunedin has continued to refurbish itself, embarking on redevelopments of the
art gallery, railway station and the
Toitū Otago Settlers Museum. Meanwhile, the continued blossoming of local creative writing saw the city gain UNESCO
City of Literature status in 2014. Dunedin has flourishing niche industries including engineering, software engineering,
biotechnology and fashion.
Port Chalmers on the
Otago Harbour provides Dunedin with deep-water facilities. It is served by the
Port Chalmers Branch, a
branch line railway which diverges from the
Main South Line and runs from
Christchurch by way of Dunedin to
Invercargill. Dunedin is also home to
MTF, the nationwide vehicle finance company. The cityscape glitters with gems of Victorian and Edwardian architecture—the legacy of the city's gold-rush affluence. Many, including First Church,
Otago Boys' High School and
Larnach Castle were designed by one of New Zealand's most eminent architects
R. A. Lawson. Other prominent buildings include
Olveston and the
Dunedin Railway Station. Other unusual or memorable buildings or constructions are
Baldwin Street, claimed to be the world's steepest residential street; the Captain Cook tavern; Cadbury Chocolate Factory (
Cadbury World) (In 2018, both the factory and Cadbury World closed to make way for a new NZ$1.4 billion hospital to replace the existing
Dunedin Public Hospital); and the
Speight's brewery. The thriving tertiary student population has led to a vibrant
youth culture (students are referred to as 'Scarfies' by people who are not students), consisting of the previously mentioned
music scene, and more recently a burgeoning boutique fashion industry. A strong visual arts community also exists in Dunedin, notably in
Port Chalmers and the other settlements which dot the coast of the
Otago Harbour, and also in communities such as
Waitati. Sport is catered for in Dunedin by the floodlit
rugby and
cricket venues of
Forsyth Barr Stadium and
University Oval, Dunedin, respectively, the new
Caledonian Ground football and
athletics stadium near the university at
Logan Park, the large
Edgar Centre indoor sports centre, the
Dunedin Ice Stadium, and numerous golf courses and parks. There is also the
Wingatui horseracing course to the south of the city. St Clair Beach is a well-known
surfing venue, and the harbour basin is popular with
windsurfers and
kitesurfers. Dunedin has four public swimming pools:
Moana Pool, Port Chalmers Pool,
Te Puna o Whakaehu and St Clair Salt Water Pool. In February 2021, the
East Otago towns of
Waikouaiti and
Karitane in New Zealand
reported high lead levels in their water supplies. Local and national authorities responded by dispatching water tanks to assist local residents and providing free blood tests, fruits and vegetables. The lead poisoning scare also attracted coverage by national media. By early March 2021, the
Southern District Health Board confirmed that test results indicated that long-term exposure to lead in the water supply posed little risk to the local population. In late January 2024, the
Dunedin City Council and
Otago Regional Council released a joint draft strategy to expand housing development and industrial land over the next thirty years to accommodate a projected 10% population growth. == Geography ==