Fashion designers are starting to look more closely at the earning potential from plus-size clothing, and have used plus-size models for their advertising campaigns and catwalks.
Jean-Paul Gaultier and
John Galliano both used plus-size models in their Spring 2006 showings in Paris. Gaultier also used plus-size models Marquita Pring and
Crystal Renn in his Spring 2011
Ready-to-Wear show. Italian plus-size fashion house Elena Mirò now regularly stages biannual
prêt-à-porter shows during
Milan Fashion Week. Mark Fast and
William Tempest each used plus-size models during their own
London Fashion Week showings for Spring 2009, and again as part of All Walks Beyond the Catwalk event held on 19 September 2009 in association with the
British Fashion Council. Mark Fast also used plus-size models in Fall 2010, Fall 2011, and Spring 2012. Mr. Debonair of Beautiful You Fashion Tour uses plus-size models in shows around the world, including during the Beautiful You fashion show during
New York Fashion Week 2022 which included Ms. Plus Intercontinental 2021 title holder Wendy Roach. Plus-size models became increasingly represented in high fashion after 2020 but saw a decline in early 2023 when ultrathin models made a comeback.
Origins in North America Spring/Summer 1954 catalog.
Lane Bryant began trading in the early 1900s as a producer of clothing for "Expectant Mothers and Newborn"'. By the early 1920s, Lane Bryant started selling clothing under the category 'For the Stout Women', which ranged between a 38–56 inch bustline. Prior to this, models freelanced directly with retailers, designers and magazines. Pat Swift, a plus-size model at the time, founded Plus Models in 1978.
Ford Models began representing plus size models in 1978, and added two models to their board, including top model Ann Harper, due to demand from clients. 18-year old Angelia Taylor was the first winner of the inaugural Big Beauty Model Search in 1984. The prize included the cover of It's Me magazine, a nationally published magazine for plus-size women.
Wilhelmina NYC agent Susan Georget started the
Wilhelmina 10/20 division in New York in 1994, recently re-branded W Curve. Gary Dakin headed New York's Karin Models'
Curves division, only to leave after a short time to develop Ford Models'
Ford 12+(rebranded Ford+) model division in their New York office in 1998. In Constantine Valhouli's 2001 plus-size model documentary
Curve, Dakin states, "We're celebrating our 25th anniversary of the Ford 12+ division. It was the first and longest-existing plus division in the industry."(sic) Together, these agents created agency divisions that have continued to recruit the highest caliber of models in the industry and are credited with expanding opportunities for plus-size models beyond working solely for plus-size clothing retailers. Muse also recruits high caliber models and had advanced opportunities for plus-size models beyond advertising for plus-size retailers. Ford Models closed its plus-size division in June 2013 to focus on its editorial divisions. Gary Dakin and Jaclyn Sarka founded Jag Models in July 2013, which currently represents about 30 models sizes 8-18. There are a large number of reputable agencies throughout the U.S. and Canada, and internationally in Australia, Belgium, Brazil,
Czech Republic, Denmark, France, Germany, Ireland, Italy,
South Africa, Spain, Switzerland,
The Netherlands, Turkey and the UK.
Specialty media and other ventures in North America In 1979
Big Beautiful Woman magazine (more commonly known via the acronym
BBW) began publication and was one of the first publications in the US catering specifically to plus-size clothing consumers. Although it continued in print via several editor-and-publisher combinations it continued to falter, finally ceasing print publication after 23 years with the April/May 2003 issue. In 1982, the magazine was sold to Happy Hands Publishing Company. In addition to magazines, books dedicated to plus size (aka "full figured") fashion and lifestyles began to be released from major publishers in the 1980s. Some of these include:
Making It Big (1980),
The Big Beauty Book (1982),
The Lane Bryant Fashion Math Make-Over (1987) and
Sizing Up (1989). Spiegel catalog launched their For You from Spiegel plus-size collection in 1989 with
Linda Arroz as their official consultant and spokesmodel. The three-year For You campaign included opening brick-and-mortar retail locations in upscale shopping centers. Previously, Spiegel had only been a mail-order merchant. As part of the full-scale plus-size outreach, Spiegel produced fashion videos that featured advice from image consultant Arroz, with commentary from some of the plus-size models who appeared in the video and catalog. Arroz became the fashion editor of
BBW magazine after her stint with Spiegel. By the mid-1990s, all For You from Spiegel retail locations had closed. In 1995, Lane Bryant began a transformation of the brand which included large-scale fashion showings and celebrity endorsement.
Queen Latifah,
Mia Tyler,
Camryn Manheim,
Anna Nicole Smith and
Chris Noth have appeared in advertising and/or events on behalf of the brand. Lane Bryant held a large-scale lingerie fashion show to launch the "Cacique Intimates" lingerie collection on 1 February 2000. The 2003 final large-scale catwalk show featured
Roseanne Barr as Matron of Ceremonies in a cabaret setting complete with
Moulin Rouge-style singers and dancers. Lane Bryant was acquired by
Charming Shoppes for $335 million in August 2001. In 2003 a cost-reduction plan was announced to improve the company's pre-tax position by $45 million. Shortly afterwards, the annual Lane Bryant fashion show ceased production. With strong cooperation from Wilhelmina 10/20, Curves and Ford 12+ agencies,
MODE magazine, was launched in the spring of 1997. No other fashion magazine specifically targeted the plus-size consumer with a
Vogue-like fashion philosophy. The magazine also received industry acclaim, being named the best new magazine launch by
Ad Week and
Advertising Age in 1997. Occurring shortly before the time of
MODEs closure was the failure of several designers' ventures into the plus-size market.
Versace (
GV Versatile Couture),
Valentino (
Carisma), and others ceased producing the clothing which
MODE relied upon, leaving an unfortunate deficit in the fashion department wardrobes and advertising revenue coffers of MO
DE magazine and its successors. Its circulation was approximately 600,000 at the time of its demise in late 2001.
Grace Magazine was launched on 14 May 2002 by MO
DE magazine's last executive editor, Ceslie Armstrong, and many of the ex-MO
DE staff as an independent quarterly publication and website under a similar concept. Even though the initial 400,000 print run sold out quickly and advertising revenue appeared high, the independent status and limited funding prohibited the ability to grow to fill the newsstand and subscription orders. Critics, however, believed that
Grace featured far less stylish fashion content than its predecessor and unwisely pursued an editorial emphasis on weight-related health issues.
Grace Magazine ceased operation due to lack of funding in November 2003, after publishing 10 issues. Charming Shoppes' custom
advertorial magazine,
Figure, was launched in 2002 and was revamped during 2006. Although it featured only Charming Shoppes' own products and related lifestyle articles, it remained the only fashion and lifestyle print magazine specifically targeted for plus-size consumers until its announced closure after the publication of the March/April 2009 issue. U.S. television program ''
America's Next Top Model'' has featured contestants acknowledging the plus-size industry's relevance to fashion since the show's launch in 2003. After elimination from the competition several of the contestants have signed contracts with the Wilhelmina agency, although only Kortnie Coles, Diane Hernandez,
Toccara Jones,
Whitney Thompson, Yvonne Powless, Khrystyana Kazakova, Liz Woodbury, and Alexandra Underwood have successfully translated their TV celebrity into ongoing modeling careers. Several homegrown calendar projects featuring models over a U.S. size 12 were launched in 2007, including the well-publicized
Luscious and
Fenomenal Calendar products from North America. To date, no calendar has been successful enough to continue beyond its initial launch year. Plus Model Magazine, an online publication was launched in 2006 by Madeline Figueroa-Jones, a former plus-size model. The magazine features beauty and fashion editorials, beauty and fashion tips, modeling advice and interviews with plus-size celebrities as well as people working in all facets of the plus-size
clothing industry. Plus Model Magazine launched an online podcast in 2008 hosted by model, actress and host
Chenese Lewis, which has interviews with plus-size celebrities and people working in all facets of the plus-size clothing industry. The editorial featured plus-size model
Katya Zharkova photographed nude alongside a straight-size model. U.S.
Glamour has declared it will feature more plus-size models as editorial policy after the appearance of a small photograph of model Lizzie Miller caused a groundswell of positive comment.
Elle Quebec featured plus-size models three times on its cover: in May 1997, May 2013 and June 2014. High fashion print publication
V magazine featured seven agency-represented plus-size models in "The Size Issue" #63, photographed by prominent fashion photographers. North American body care company,
Dove, launched a
"Real Beauty Campaign" where they included un-retouched photos of plus-size models, and models of all sizes, to emphasize the acceptance of all body shapes.
Origins in Europe European magazines, including European editions of Elle and Vogue have featured plus size models on covers and in editorials. In France, the media
ma grande taille is dedicated to plus size industry and
body positivity.
Evans, a U.K.-based retailer, was founded in 1930. Evans specializes in plus-sized clothing, lingerie, shoes and swimwear.
Max Mara started
Marina Rinaldi, one of the first high-end clothing lines, for plus-size women in 1980. Marina Rinaldi started advertising in 1981. The ads were also the first to use the term plus size rather than outsize in Europe. Allison Bramwell Bewley, a former straight size and plus-size model founded Excel Models in 1995. The agency has represented notable models including
Pollyanna McIntosh and Sara Morrison. Sarah Watkinson founded 12 + models in 2000. Former plus-size model Anna Shillinglaw founded the plus size division of Milk Management in 2011. These agents have been credited with improving visibility of plus-size models in Europe and developing some of the top plus-size models for international markets. In recent years, the most prestigious fashion agencies in the UK have launched plus size divisions. In 2011, Excel Models merged with
Models 1, one of Europe's most prestigious fashion agencies.
Storm Models started a plus size division, Curve in 2012.
Specialty media and other ventures in Europe Several plus-size retailers in Europe have produced magazines.
Marina Rinaldi started MR, a fashion magazine showing Marina Rinaldi fashions on plus-size models in 1992. Yes!, a print fashion magazine for plus size women founded and edited by Janice Bhend, launched in 1993. At the time, Yes! was the only print magazine especially for plus size women in Europe. The magazine stopped publishing in 1998 due to a lack of funding. Fashion editor Rivkie Baum launched SLiNK, a fashion and lifestyle magazine for full-figured women in 2011. SLiNK is one of the few magazines focused on plus size women to photograph models with a Vogue-like aesthetic. The magazine was also the first to feature a plus size model in a 3D editorial. SLiNK was also one of the few magazines to feature plus-size and smaller sized models on a magazine cover. Vogue Italia featured plus size models on the cover of three issues.
Sophie Dahl appeared on two covers in 2000(February and April). In June 2011,
Candice Huffine,
Robyn Lawley, and
Tara Lynn appeared on the magazine's cover. In November 2013, Tara Lynn appeared on the cover of Elle Spain. In December 2013, Iris Monroe Baker appeared on the cover of Elle Netherlands. Other magazines that have featured plus size models on their covers include
Amica, Avantgarde, Biba, D Reppublicca della Donna, i-D, and
S Moda. In addition, magazines such as
Bon, Diva e Donna, Gioia, Glamour UK, Glass, Grazia, Numéro, Paradis, Ponystep, and
Yo Dona have featured plus size models in editorials. ''
Britain & Ireland's Next Top Model'' has featured several contestants, including Louise Watts, who was Season 3's runner up and competed in America's Next Top Model Cycle 18. In 2016,
Scandinavia's Next Top Model was rebooted as
Top Model Curves, and all contestants featured were plus-size models from
Denmark,
Norway, and
Sweden. Swede Ronja Manfredsson was declared the winner during the finale episode in
Lisbon.
Origins in Asia and the Pacific The plus size industry in Asia is not as developed as in North America or Europe, but a number of Asian plus size models have been featured in press. Australia has a developed industry with multiple designers and retailers using plus size models in advertising. In recent years, plus size agencies in Australia have launched the careers of several international plus size models, such as
Robyn Lawley.
Specialty agencies and divisions Former plus-size model Darrianne Donnelly founded the first plus size agency in Australia, BigGals Models, which was renamed to BGM Models in 1996. BGM Models closed in 2015 due to Donnelly's retirement, with the majority of models moving to the new Curves division at the established full service agency Vivien's Models. Chelsea Bonner, a former BGM model, left the agency to start Bella Models in 2000 in direct competition. Bonner is often credited with the discovery of
Robyn Lawley as a model, although Lawley had already been modelling at a smaller size before joining Bella.
Specialty media and other ventures in Asia and Pacific Region In April 1997,
Emme appeared on a cover of
New Woman, the first appearance of a plus-size model on an Australian magazine cover. In May 2000, Australian Cosmopolitan began using plus-size models in fashion feature spreads. Natalie Wakeling appeared in the first May 2000 editorial. Robyn Lawley was
GQ Australia's Girl of the Week in its November 2013 issue. Madison magazine photographed Robyn Lawley for their May 2012 cover. In March 2014, Robyn Lawley appeared on the cover of Cosmopolitan Australia. Crystal Renn appeared in A Call for Camp in Vogue Japan's June 2011 issue. Felicity Hayward was featured in the editorial I'm Better in Black in Vogue Japan September 2012. Australian Vogue featured Robyn Lawley in Belle Curve for their August 2011 issue, and again in their June 2013 issue.
Australia's Next Top Model featured cycle winner
Tahnee Atkinson in Cycle 5.
Elena Miro produced a
prêt-à-porter runway show in China featuring Asian models in 2006. ==Criticism==