Successful snail culture requires the correct equipment and supplies, including snail pens or enclosures; devices for measuring humidity (
hygrometer), temperature (
thermometer), soil moisture (
soil moisture sensor), and light (in foot candles); a weight scale and an instrument to measure snail size; a kit for testing soil contents; and a magnifying glass to see the eggs. Equipment to control the climate (
temperature and
humidity), to regulate water (e.g., a sprinkler system to keep the snails moist and a drainage system), to provide light and shade, and to kill or keep out pests and predators may also be needed. Some horticultural systems such as artificial lighting systems and water sprinklers may be adapted for snail culture. Better results are obtained if snails of the same kind and generation are used. Some recommend putting the hatchlings in another pen. Four systems of snail farms can be distinguished: • Outdoor pens • In buildings with a controlled climate • In closed systems such as plastic tunnel houses or "
greenhouses" • A hybrid system where snails may breed and hatch inside a controlled environment and then (after 6 to 8 weeks) may be placed in outside pens to mature.
Key factors to successful snail farming Hygiene Good hygiene can prevent the spread of disease and otherwise improve the health and growth rate of snails. Food is replaced daily to prevent spoilage. Earthworms added to the soil helps keep the pen clean.
Parasites,
nematodes,
trematodes,
fungi, and micro
arthropods can attack snails, and such problems can spread rapidly when snail populations are dense. The bacterium
Pseudomonas aeruginosa causes intestinal infections that can spread rapidly in a crowded snail pen. Possible predators include
rats,
mice,
moles,
skunks,
weasels,
birds,
frogs and
toads,
lizards, walking insects (e.g., some
beetle and
cricket species), some types of
flies,
centipedes, and even certain carnivorous snail species, such as
Strangesta capillacea.
Population density Population density also affects successful snail production. Snails tend not to breed when packed too densely or when the
slime in the pen accumulates too much. The slime apparently works like a
pheromone and suppresses reproduction. On the other hand, snails in groups of about 100 seem to breed better than when only a few snails are confined together. Perhaps they have more potential mates from which to choose. Snails in a densely populated area grow more slowly even when food is abundant, and they also have a higher mortality rate. These snails then become smaller adults who lay fewer clutches of eggs, have fewer eggs per clutch, and the eggs have a lower hatch rate. Smaller adult snails sell for less.
Dwarfing is quite common in snail farming and is attributable mainly to rearing conditions rather than
heredity factors.
Feeding The feeding season is April through October, (or may vary with the local climate), with a "rest period" during the summer. Do not place food in one small clump so that there is not enough room for all the snails to get to it. Snails eat solid food by
rasping it away with their
radula. Feeding activity depends on the weather, and snails may not necessarily feed every day. Evening irrigation in dry weather may encourage feeding since the moisture makes it easier for the snails to move about.
Climate A mild climate with high humidity (75% to 95%) is best for snail farming, though most varieties can stand a wider range of temperatures. The optimal temperature is for many varieties. When the temperature falls below , snails hibernate. Under the snails are inactive, and under , all growth stops. When the temperature rises much above or conditions become too dry, snails estivate. Wind is bad for snails because it speeds up moisture loss, and snails must retain moisture. Snails thrive in damp but not waterlogged environments and thus a well-draining soil is required. Research indicates that water content around 80% of the carrying capacity of the soil and air
humidity over 80% (during darkness) are the most favorable conditions. Many farmers use
mist-producing devices to maintain proper moisture in the air and/or soil. Also, if the system contains alive vegetation, the leaves are to be periodically wet.
Soil Snails dig in
soil and ingest it. Good soil favors snail growth and provides some of their nutrition. Lack of access to good soil may cause fragile shells even when the snails have well-balanced feed; the snails' growth may lag far behind the growth of other snails on good soil. Snails often eat feed, then go eat soil. Sometimes, they eat only one or the other. Soil care: A farmer must find a way to prevent the soil from becoming fouled with mucus and droppings and also tackle undesirable
chemical changes that may occur in time. Soil mix suggestions: •
peat, clay,
compost and
CaCO3 •
leaf mold (at pH 7)
Phases in snail farming Some who raise
C. aspersum separate the five stages: reproduction, hatching, young, fattening, and final fattening. Depending on the scale and sophistication of a snail farm, it will contain some or all of below described sections which may or may not be merged with one and another. Each section has its particular values for the key factors to successful snail farming, described above.
Hibernation For future reproducers, it is mandatory to hibernate for 3 months.
Breeding Most breeders allow the snails to mate with one another on their own. If snails are kept in ideal conditions, breeding will occur at higher rates and have more success.
Hatchery and nursery When the snails have laid their eggs, the pots are put in a nursery where the eggs will hatch. The young snails are kept in the nursery for about 6 weeks, and then moved to a separate pen, as young snails do best if kept with other snails of similar size. Eight hours of daylight is optimal for young snails. Baby snails are fed on tender
lettuce leaves (
Boston type, but
head type is probably also good).
Cannibalism by hatchlings The first snails to hatch eat the shells of their eggs. This gives them calcium needed for their shells. They may then begin eating unhatched eggs. If the snail eggs are kept at the optimum temperature, (for some varieties), and if none of the eggs lose moisture, most eggs will hatch within three days of each other.
Cannibalism also will be low. If hatching extends over a longer period, cannibalism may increase. Some eggs eaten are eggs that were not fertile or did not develop properly, but sometimes, properly developing embryos might be eaten. A high density of "clutches" of egg masses increases the rate of cannibalism, as other nearby egg masses are more likely to be found and eaten.
Fattening/growing In this section, the snails are grown from juvenile to mature size. Fattening pens can be outside or in a greenhouse. High summer temperatures and insufficient moisture cause dwarfing and malformations of some snails. This is more of a problem inside greenhouses if the sun overheats the building. A layer of coarse sand and
topsoil with earthworms is placed on the fattening pen's bottom. The worms help clean up the snail droppings.
Harvest and purging Snails are mature when a lip forms at the opening of their shell. Before they mature, their shells are more easily broken, making them undesirable. For
C. aspersum, commercial weight is 8 grams or larger. The fastest, largest, and healthy snails are selected for next-generation breeders. This is typically around 5% of the harvest. The remainder goes for sales. Snail eggs may also be harvested and processed to produce
snail caviar, but in order to do so systematically, special breeding units are created enhancing easy harvest of the eggs.
Types of farms, or sections thereof Open air farms Enclosures for snails are usually long and thin instead of square. This allows the workers to walk around (without harming the snails) and reach into the whole pen. The enclosure may be a trough with sides made of
wood,
block, fiber cement sheets, or
galvanized sheet steel. Cover it with
screen or
netting. The covering confines the snails and keeps out birds and other predators. The bottom of the enclosure, if it is not the ground or trays of dirt, needs be a surface more solid than screening. A snail placed in a wire-mesh-bottom pen will keep crawling, trying to get off the wires and onto solid, more comfortable ground.
Garden farms An alternate method is to make a square pen with a -square garden in it. Plant about six crops, e.g.,
nettles and
artichokes, inside the pen. The snails will choose what they want to eat. Plastic tunnels make cheap, easy snail enclosures, but it is difficult to regulate heat and humidity.
Indoor farms Fluorescent lamps can be used to give artificial daylight. Different snails respond to day length in different ways. The ratio of light to darkness influences activity, feeding, and mating and egg-laying. Snails can be bred in boxes or cages stacked several units high. An automatic sprinkler system can be used to provide moisture. Breeding cages need a feed trough and a water trough. Plastic trays a couple of inches deep are adequate; deeper water troughs increase the chance of snails drowning in them. Trays can be set on a bed of small gravel. Small plastic pots, e.g., flower pots about deep, can be filled with sterilized dirt (or a loamy pH neutral soil) and set in the gravel to give the snails a place to lay their eggs. After the snails lay eggs each pot is replaced. (Set one pot inside another so that one can be easily lifted without shifting the gravel.) == Processing/transforming snails ==