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Steph Davis

Stephanie "Steph" Davis is an American rock climber, BASE jumper and wingsuit flyer. She is one of the world's leading climbers, having completed some of the hardest routes in the world. She has free soloed up to 5.11a (6b+), and was the first woman to summit all the peaks of the Fitzroy Range in Patagonia, the second woman to free climb El Capitan in a day, the first woman to free climb the Salathė Wall on El Capitan, the first woman to free solo The Diamond on Longs Peak in Colorado and the first woman to summit Torre Egger. Davis was married to fellow climbers and BASE jumpers Dean Potter and Mario Richard and currently to sky-diving instructor, flyer and jumper Ian Mitchard. Davis is also a blogger who writes about her interests in climbing, BASE jumping, yoga and veganism.

Early life
Davis was born in Illinois and grew up in New Jersey and Columbia, Maryland. Davis describes herself as an unathletic child, Her own self-description has been mirrored by others. In one Outside profile, for example, her "greatest assets" are described as "sheer will and a brainy, methodical work ethic" rather than "natural athletic talent and flawless technique". In her breaks from school, Davis climbed on Longs Peak and bouldered in Hueco Tanks. She considered attending doctoral programs in English but decided against it. She attended University of Colorado's law school beginning in September 1995, but quit after five days, knowing it was not the life for her. Against the will of her parents, she decided to pursue her passion for climbing. Davis' mother, Connie, said "It was a big shock. We were just a regular family so climbing wasn't something we could relate to. She did it by herself with no help from us." ==Climbing career==
Climbing career
For the seven years after she graduated from college, Davis lived out of her car, which at first was her grandmother's Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera; she even built a bed in the backseat. Her aim was to free climb the route. In order to be able to achieve this in one climb, she had to know the route through and through, so she practiced it extensively. Two to three times a week, she would hike 10 miles to the summit, rope solo to the lower parts of the route and climb up alone. This climb was Davis' "dream come true" and afterwards she said, "I don't have to prove anything to myself anymore, or to anyone else." The 2006 and 2007 were pivotal years for Davis in terms of her relationships and her climbing. In 2006, Davis' marriage to Potter ended after he climbed Delicate Arch that year. The controversial climb resulted in a public outcry, and there was a lot of criticism directed at him for climbing "such a revered landmark". The couple lost much of their financial stability because they lost a lot of sponsorships. This financial stress added to their already tension-filled relationships and led to their divorce. In free solo climbing, climbers rely only on themselves to ascend the rock and use no protective gear; they use no ropes, harnesses or anything else. She began her free solo experience of the area by soloing ''Kiener's Route (5.3) July 7, 2007, working up to harder routes. Next, on July 14, she free soloed Casual Route'' (5.10) and returned again on August 27, after soloing a route on another mountain, to see if she would feel more at ease. She repeated the feat on September 13 with Peter Mortimer filming. It is a famous formation in Castle Valley, Utah. After Davis climbed it, she BASE jumped from the top. In describing this climb, she referred to her climb and jump as "the cleanest possible style". Davis has made first ascents around Moab, including the Tombstone. In 2008, she climbed Concepcion (5.13), one of the hardest pure crack climbs in the world, making the third overall ascent and first female ascent of the route. She described it as her most technically demanding climb ever. Expedition climbing Davis has been on successful international expeditions to climb new routes in alpine, big wall, and solo styles, including in Pakistan, Kyrgyzstan, Baffin Island, Argentina, Italy, and Patagonia. Davis was the first American woman to summit Fitzroy in Patagonia and to summit all seven major peaks of the Fitzroy Range. Davis was inspired to go to the Karakoram by photographs she saw of the Trango Towers and Shipton Spire. Davis began her mountain climbing career in 1998 by climbing Inshallah (VI 5.12 A1) with Kennan Harvey and Seth Shaw, which is on the southeast face of Shipton Spire in the Karakoram. As one article describes it, "the ascent is one of the few big-wall expeditions to have pushed the limits of free climbing in a hostile, high-altitude environment". Davis returned to the Karakoram in 2000, this time to the Kondus Valley, making a first ascent of Tahir Tower via All Quiet on the Eastern Front (VI 5.11 A3) with Jimmy Chin, Brady Robinson, and Dave Anderson. The tower was previously unknown. In her article about women in the Karakoram, climber Lizzy Scully points out that the 1990s saw an increase in the number of women not only climbing in the Karakoram but also writing about it, including Davis, putting her in the tradition of the first professional female mountaineer, Fanny Bullock Workman. Davis has written in the past about the hurdles she faced being a woman in a male-dominated sport, but in 2009 she commented to an interviewer that she felt much of that discrimination had disappeared. ==Skydiving and base jumping career==
Skydiving and base jumping career
Davis started skydiving in 2007. Moab BASE Adventures In 2011, Davis and spouse and BASE jumper Mario Richard started Moab BASE Adventures. ==Media ventures==
Media ventures
Davis's book ''High Infatuation: A Climber's Guide to Love and Gravity'' (), has been translated into multiple languages. In it, according to Michael Robinson, professor of history who specializes in exploration and adventure, she "asks difficult questions about high-risk climbing, examining her own motives, personal relationships, and the broader meanings of her life's work". After four years of working on the project, Davis published Learning to Fly: An Uncommon Memoir of Human Flight, Unexpected Love, and One Amazing Dog in March 2013. Written after her difficult break up with Potter, it is about how she recovered from the loss of her partner and financial stability and used her developing love of skydiving to overcome her fear of falling. Described as "gripping", it is a "story of personal growth". She had faced a lot of fear free soloing, BASE jumping and sky diving and felt that she could offer people advice about facing fear in general. As she said in an interview, "A big part of the reason I wanted to write the book is that most people have had experiences like this [fear in climbing], or will, whether it's a relationship or a career or whatever. … Life's about change. Don't be afraid." ==Notable climbs==
Notable climbs
Ascents , (4)Aguja Rafael Juárez, (5)Aguja Poincenot, (6)Aguja Caquito, (7)Aguja M & M, (8)Aguja de la Silla, (9)Cerro Fitz Roy (or Monte Fitz Roy, Cerro Chaltén), (10)Pilar Goretta, (11)Aguja Val Biois, (12)Aguja Mermoz, and (13)Aguja Guillaumet. • 1996, Obelisk IV 5.11, The Diamond, Long's Peak, Colorado — First all-female ascent with Elaine Lee. • 1996, Tricks are for Kids 5.13a/b, Indian Creek, Moab, Utah — First female ascent. • 2005, Salathé Wall VI 5.13 b/c, El Capitan, Yosemite — First woman to free climb the Salathe Wall. 10th person overall to free climb this route. • 2005, Titanic ED 6+/A2, 1000m, Torre Egger, Patagonia — First one-day ascent of the mountain with Dean Potter. First woman to summit mountain. • 2008, Concepcion 5.13b/c, Moab, Utah — Third ascent of the route, first woman to redpoint it. being led by a free climber. Solo climbs • 1997, A Thousand Years of Russian Christianity V 5.12, Peak 4520, Kyrgyzstan — Rope solo ascent. • 1999, Coyne Crack 5.11+, Indian Creek, Moab, Utah — Free solo ascent. • 1999, Scarface 5.11, Indian Creek, Moab, Utah — Free solo ascent. • 2007, Casual Route 5.10 The Diamond, Long's Peak, Colorado — Free solo ascent. • 2007, Pervertical Sanctuary 5.10+/5.11a The Diamond, Long's Peak, Colorado — Free solo ascent. • 2008, North Face, Castleton Tower 5.11, Moab, Utah — Free soloed the route and descended by base jumping. == Personal life ==
Personal life
In the fall of 1994, Davis met Dean Potter while climbing Long's Peak in Colorado. He had dropped out of the University of New Hampshire in 1992 and been living out of his Volkswagen Jetta so that he could pursue climbing. The two began a tumultuous on-again/off-again relationship that involved living in each other's vehicles and trying to secure sponsorships. However, Davis never lived there full-time, often traveling to Yosemite, where she planned to build a house, or to other climbing destinations. In 2011, Davis married BASE jumper Mario Richard on the Parriott Mesa near Moab. After the ceremony, they leaped off the mesa and parachuted back to the ground. Richard died while wingsuiting on August 18, 2013. Davis also practices yoga and is a vocal vegan activist. She has also stated that she believes factory farming to be "abhorrent" and that "no one should add one more penny of their money into sustaining it." == See also ==
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