Madeira evergreen forests

The islands are an autonomous region of Portugal. They lie southwest of the Portuguese mainland in the Atlantic Ocean, southwest of Lisbon and west of Morocco. Madeira is the largest island and highest island, with an area of . The island extends east–west approximately , and is at its widest point. A mountainous spine runs the length of the island, and Pico Ruivo, the highest peak, reaches above sea level. Porto Santo Island, which lies northeast of Madeira. is the second-largest island with an area of . The Desertas Islands are a chain of three narrow islands about southeast of Madeira, covering an area of . The Selvagens are a group of small islands lying south of Madeira, and north of the Canary Islands. The Selvagens have a total area of . The islands are volcanic in origin. Basalt and volcanic ash are common substrate rocks, with some areas of uplifted limestone of marine origin. The volcanic soils are generally fertile, sustaining both the native forests and agriculture on the two larger islands. The islands of Madeira and Porto Santo are inhabited. The archipelago has a population of 289,000 (2016 estimate), mostly on Madeira. Funchal, on Madeira's south shore, is the islands' largest city and principal port. ==Climate==

The climate of Madeira is subtropical and maritime. The average annual temperature ranges between 15 and 20°C at sea level. The climate becomes more temperate with elevation, and frost and snow occur most winters on Madeira's high elevations. Average annual precipitation ranges from . Prevailing winds are from the northeast, and rainfall is higher on the windward north side of the island. The mountain slopes are frequently shrouded in orographic clouds and fog, sustaining cloud forests in the wettest areas. ==Flora==

Madeira has about 1,226 native species of vascular plants. 66 vascular plant species are endemic to the islands, Madeiran endemics include Polystichum drepanum, Armeria maderensis, Goodyera macrophylla, Viola paradoxa, Crambe fruticosa, Matthiola maderensis, Sinapidendron angustifolium, Saxifraga maderensis, Sorbus maderensis, Genista maderensis, Pericallis aurita, Phalaris maderensis, and Musschia wollastonii. Another 54 species are endemic to Macaronesia. Over half of Madeira's plant species are also found in the Mediterranean Basin. The Canary Islands and Azores are home to smaller areas of laurissilva. The laurissilva of Madeira is of two main types. Moist laurisilva is found on north-facing slopes and canyons. The predominant trees are Laurus novocanariensis, Ocotea foetens, Persea indica, and Clethra arborea. Trees are covered with epiphytic mosses and lichens. ==Fauna==

The laurissilva forests of the island of Madeira have been recognised as an Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife International. Some 295 bird species and subspecies have been recorded on the Islands, and 42 of them breed here. Endemic bird species include the Trocaz pigeon (Columba trocaz), Zino's petrel (Pterodroma madeira), Desertas petrel (Pterodroma deserta), and Madeira firecrest (Regulus maderensis). The Madeira chaffinch (Fringilla madeirensis) is an endemic forest species related to the Eurasian chaffinch. Berthelot's pipit (Anthus bertheloti) and Atlantic canary (Serinus canaria) are Macaronesian endemics. Tyto alba schmitzi is a Madeiran subspecies of Western barn owl, Accipiter nisus granti is a Macaronesian subspecies of Eurasian sparrowhawk, and Falco tinnunculus canariensis is a Macaronesian subspecies of common kestrel. The plain swift (Apus unicolor) breeds on Madeira and the Canary Islands, and ranges over northwestern Africa. Two extinct species of rail, the Madeira rail (Rallus lowei) and Porto Santo rail (Rallus adolfocaesaris), once inhabited the archipelago, on Madeira and Porto Santo islands respectively. Zino's petrel is a Madeiran breeding endemic, and the Desertas petrel breeds only on the Desertas islands. Other seabirds include the Madeiran storm petrel (Oceanodroma castro), Fea's petrel (Pterodroma feae), little shearwater (Puffinus assimilis baroli), white-faced storm petrel (Pelagodroma marina hypoleuca), and yellow-legged gull (Larus michahellis). Regular visitors include the little egret (Egretta garzetta), cattle egret (Bubulcus ibis), Eurasian whimbrel (Numenius phaeopus), dunlin (Calidris alpina), and ruddy turnstone (Arenaria interpres). Two bats inhabit the islands – the Madeira pipistrelle (Pipistrellus maderensis), a Macaronesian endemic, and a subspecies of lesser noctule (Nyctalus leisleri verrucosus). The islands have two endemic lizards. The Madeiran wall lizard (Teira dugesii) lives on Madeira, Porto Santo, the Desertas, and the Selvagens. The islands have over 500 terrestrial invertebrate species, including insects, spiders, and molluscs. ==Human impacts==

Portuguese settlers arrived after 1420, and are the first known settlers. The islands' trees were cut for their timber, and Persea indica was the most sought after. In the 16th and 17th centuries the southern side of Madeira was converted to sugarcane plantations. A system of levadas, water channels wide, was constructed of stone and later concrete to irrigate the sugarcane fields. Forests and shrublands were denuded to provide charcoal for the islands' sugar mills. Goats, sheep, and cows were introduced to the islands, and forests were converted to pasture land, and the forest understory was grazed intensively. Many exotic plants and animals have been introduced to the islands. A few are invasive. Plantations of Pinus pinaster and Eucalyptus globulus were planted at middle elevations. Eucalyptus has spread extensively on the south slope of Madeira, displacing native species. ==Conservation and protected areas==

Approximately of laurissilva remain on Madeira, mostly on the northern side of the island. 90% of the laurissilva is primary forest, and includes trees up to 800 years old that predate settlement of the islands. The remaining 10% is secondary growth in areas that were last cut during the mid-20th century. UNESCO justified the inclusion of this place within the world heritage precisely because it is the largest remaining laurel forest, in the past spread throughout Europe while today is practically extinct. In addition, this type of forest is considered a center of plant biodiversity and contains numerous endemic, residual and rare species, especially bryophytes, ferns and flowering plants. It also has a very rich invertebrate fauna, appearing among the endemic species of the island, the Madeira laurel pigeon. The Selvagens were made a nature reserve in 1971, and the Desertas in 1990. == Gallery==