MarketNightlife in Belgrade
Company Profile

Nightlife in Belgrade

The vibrant and dynamic nightlife in Belgrade achieved international prominence in the early 21st century. Belgrade, the capital of Serbia, gained a reputation both due to the traditional nightlife, mostly represented by the kafanas, and the contemporary, modern nightlife, especially including splavovi, barges and floats adapted into the clubs and cafés. Belgrade often makes the lists of the cities with best clubbing and partying, discreetly shaping itself into the fun and accommodating metropolis.

Traditional nightlife
Origins in 2017. The venue provided hospitality and catering services for over 300 years (1650s–1960s) Predecessors of modern nightlife were the kafanas, oriental style bistros. The very first one in Belgrade was opened during the Ottoman period, in 1522, in Dorćol. Believed to be the oldest such venue in Europe, it served only Turkish coffee. This was only a year after the Ottoman conquest of Belgrade, and 33 years before the first kafana was opened in Istanbul in 1555. There are no historical sources to why Belgrade was so important at the time to have such venue so early. Ottoman traveler Evliya Çelebi visited Belgrade in 1661 and counted 21 khans and 6 caravanserais. The largest, Caravanserai of Sokollu Mehmed Pasha had "160 chimneys", and some had harem sections. When Austrians conquered Belgrade in 1718, among other reports to the imperial court in Vienna, they sent a report on kafanas naming them: "Crni orao", "Crveni petao", "Pet ševa", "Tri zeca", "Divlji čovek", etc. They especially addressed the problematic "Kod dve bule", notorious favorite place of the "debauched" Baron Franz von der Trenck. Austrian governor, Charles Alexander, Duke of Württemberg, was known for his love of the night life. He abolished all taxes on drink serving, and business blossomed. There were some 140 kafanas and pubs in the German section of the city, and over 200 in the Serbian sector. The former mostly served beer, and the latter wine and rakia. In the 1717-1723 period, four breweries were opened in Belgrade. Duke also organized balls in his palace. In the periods when the balls were organized, music in other parts of the city was forbidden. Common citizens were sometimes forcefully dragged to the balls. where they had to pay the entry fee of 17 kreuzers, which was too high. The aristocracy mostly used the commoners as a laughingstock at the balls, and those who refused to come or made problems at the balls, were jailed and whipped. A massive, lush dinners and feasts, known as , were organized. They included meals out of reach for the common people, like caviar, octopuses, salted herrings, fried pigeons, hot chocolate or imported wines. After the return of the Ottomans in 1739, this "baroque blitz" of Belgrade's nightlife ended. After the recapturing, at the corner of the modern Kralja Petra and Cara Dušana streets, kafana "Crni orao", the first such facility with the recorded word kafana in its name, survived. It served coffee and nargile. The object was also important for other reasons. It was also the first brewery in Belgrade, and the first venue to work 24/7. On the floor above dwelled guardsmen, the crew of the fortress' Timișoara Gate. As their duty was 24/7, so were the kafana's working hours. The building survived until the Interbellum. White Bear Tavern was opened in the 18th century in the town of Zemun. The building was constructed in the first half of the 17th century and served as caravanserai (khan) at least since 1658. Popular venue stayed in business until the early 1960s. It is the oldest surviving building in urban Belgrade, beside the Belgrade Fortress walls. However, Zemun developed independently from Belgrade and for the most part during history two towns belonged to two different states. Zemun became part of the same administrative unit as Belgrade on 4 October 1929, lost a separate town status to Belgrade in 1934 and made a continuous built-up area with Belgrade only since the 1950s. Hence, the House at 10 Cara Dušana Street in Dorćol is usually named as the oldest house in Belgrade, while the White Bear Tavern is titled as the oldest house in Zemun. The word kafana, introduced by the Ottomans (qahve hane), was derived from the Persian qahvah–khanah, meaning "coffee house". English version appeared for the first time in 1615, published by George Sandys after his travels to Constantinople. In time, the crumby-type kafanas mostly remained in suburbia. Kafanas became centers of city's social life, as the entire political and cultural pulse of the city radiated from them. Some historians described them as the "most important institutions" from the 19th century to World War II. Prince Mihailo Obrenović also codified them in 1863, and ordered that women were not allowed to own the kafana nor to work in the village and road ones, but one, or exceptionally two, could work in city kafanas. The venues diversified into various types: , bistro, , han, saraj, , krčma, , and later also restoran, hotel, etc. Though all of them offered drinks, some were also offering food, rest and sleepover. Also, many had music. At the end of the 19th century, downtown Makedonska Street had 40 houses, of which 22 were kafanas. Kafanas were generally diversified: some served only coffee, other served only beer or offered only bean soup. As hubs of the social life, kafanas soon diversified: "Esnafska kafana" (for craftsmen - bricklayers, masons, well diggers, carpenters, sawyers), "Makedonija" (farmers and traders), "Kod Albanije" (leaseholders), etc. Depending on the political affiliation of the guests, some kafanas turned into the debate clubs of the Serbian Progressive Party, People's Radical Party or Liberal Party. "Rajić" was the first kafana where modern ćevapčići were prepared c.1860. Staple of the Serbian cuisine today, they were so popular that at one moment there were 300 (ćevapčići grill shops) in Belgrade. The first kafana which allowed guests to stay the entire night "?", since the mid-19th century, originally only twice a year, after the Christmas and Easter liturgies. Located across the Belgrade's Cathedral Church, it allowed the believers who remained long into the night in the churchyard to stay inside the kafana. On 6 February 1893 the first electrified streetlamp was lit in the city and some chroniclers accept this as the moment when "proper night life" began. In 1860 one of the best known kafanas, "Kod Albanije", was opened. A modern Palace Albania was built in 1940 on its location. Some of the venues had jovial names, like "Kod pocepanih gaća" [Chez Torn Nickers] and "Sedam Švaba" [Seven Swabians], or were named after the edifices they were close to ("Tri šešira" [Three Hats], because of the Dimović's hat store which occupied the house before and had three tin-made hats above the entrance; "Kod palidrvca" [Chez Matchstick], because of the nearby match factory). Kafana "Amerika" was known for Turkish delight, chickpeas and čočeks, but also for introducing belly dancers and was notorious for prostitution. Hotel and restaurant "Balkan" on Terazije was built in 1935 on the location of the former "Simina kafana" from 1860. Ranked as the highest category 1, it was a meeting place of the businesspeople, and was one of the few here women were allowed to work. "Zlatni krst", also in Terazije, advertised itself in 1862 as having "12 rooms and stable for 30 horses". A custom of unusual, exotic and funny names continued, often countering some neighboring or well established venue: "Pivni izvor" [Beer Spring], "Bosfor" [Bosporus] (next to "Dardaneli" [Dardanelles]), "Engleska kraljica" [Queen of England], "Zemljotres" [Earthquake], "Crna mačka" [Black Cat] (next to "Bela mačka" [White Cat]), "Žurka" [Party], "Kod tri seljaka" [Chez Three Peasants], "Astronomska kugla" [Astronomy Ball], "Kod bombardovanja Beograda" [Chez Bombing of Belgrade], "Gusarski brod" [Pirate Ship], "Dva panja" [Two Logs], "Jeftinoća" [Cheapness], "Musa Kesedžija", "Radosan Srbin" [Joyful Serb], "Srpski vlakovođa" [Serbian Train Driver], "Crni Arapin" [Black Arab], One of the most distinguished venues was '"Srpska kruna", built in 1869 and adapted into the hotel. It originated in 1853 at the corner of Knez Mihailova and Pariska streets. It was famous for its balls. Built by prince Alexander Karađorđević, it was sold to the Belgrade administration which moved in. The new building, located across the Kalemegdan Park, today hosts the Belgrade City Library. It was part of the colloquially styled "Kalemegdan group of hotels", due to their location. The venues began to develop after 1867 and full withdrawal of the Ottomans from the city. The group included the "Nacional" inn, later also a hotel, built in 1868. "Srpska kruna" architecturally preserved the appearance of the khan - squared, central inner yard - but in modern style. It had only 12 rooms but was famous for its large ceremonial hall, used for the European-style balls and concerts, though every ball had to start with the Serbian folk kolo Srbijanka. It was founded in 1855 by Arif Bey, the Turk. Ownership changed a lot, being owned by a Serbian woman Stojana in 1858, as she received it as a dowry. It had billiard tables. Notable regular guests included Vojislav Ilić, Branislav Nušić, Antun Gustav Matoš, Stevan Sremac, Radoje Domanović, Janko Veselinović, Toša Jovanović, Đura Jakšić, and Milovan Glišić. It was affectionately called "people's university". When it was to be closed, regular guests organized "farewell ceremony" - some 70 people gathered, wearing fedoras and top hats, organized by the famous Bohemian actor Čiča Ilija Stanojević, and performed a dignified farewell "with great sadness and sorrow". Even older "Gospodarska Mehana", from 1820, was closed in 2013. It was situated close to the mouth of the Topčiderka into the Sava. "Despotov Han" inn, predecessor of "Grčka Kraljica", holds the infamy as the first recorded brothel in Belgrade, dating from the 1840s. As the prostitution was always illegal, the sex workers had to move to the streets, while the venue continued as regular kafana. The last "officially unofficial" brothel from this period was located in the ground-floor house in the Čika Ljubina Street, behind the modern Instituto Cervantes building. The house was demolished much later, in the early 1990s. Prostitution was largely suppressed by the actions of the Circle of Serbian Sisters, founded in 1903. At the turn of the 19th and the 20th century, Belgrade had one hospitality or catering venue per 50 inhabitants. Instead, restaurant "Park" was opened, with majority of the lot becoming restaurant's garden. It was later renamed to "Central Park", before it burned to the ground in December 2012. On 30 December 1927, Ministry of Finance of the Kingdom of the Serbs, Croats and Slovenes banned night life after 23:00: those who loiter and sit till the late hours, and it is past eleven, will be fined two dinars. Known as the "tax for nighttime sitting", it is considered the first official ban of night life in Serbia. Other important, now closed kafanas from this period included: • "Babuna"; in Senjak, across the modern Belgrade Fair, hosted the monument Pobednik, one of the most recognizable symbols of Belgrade today, before it was erected on the Belgrade Fortress. • "Čukareva kafana"; existed in the later 19th century at the present location of the Sugar Refinery. A popular venue at the crossroad of the Obrenovac and Šumadija roads, at the entrance into the city, it was named after its owner, Stojko Čukar. It gave name to the modern neighborhood and municipality Čukarica. • "Dva bela goluba"; founded by Jovan Kujundžić, a tailor (terzija, cloth tailor). Originally a typical road meyhane, it became so famous that the entire neighborhood and the modern Svetogorska Street were named after it in 1872. In the late 1920s, the Artisan Guild purchased the house and the surrounding lot in order to build the Home of the Artisans, which is today the building of the Radio Belgrade. Kujundžić had one condition, that the name is to be preserved. Because of that, above the entrance into the building, the sculptural composition was carved. It shows two persons with an anvil (symbol of artisans), next to the anvil are scissors (symbol of tailors), with two white doves. The kafana moved to Skadarlija while the restaurant in the new building (finished in 1933) was named "Zanatski dom". • "Dva duda"; visited by Belgrade's coachmen and porters. It was located close to Tašmajdan. • "London"; which gave name to the modern surrounding neighborhood, at the crossroads of the Kneza Miloša and Kralja Milana streets. Built between 1865 and 1873, with hotel rooms above it, kafana's original clientele were the deputies of the nearby National Assembly. Belgrade's first korzo (promenade), formed next to it and down the Topčider Road (today Kneza Miloša). New building was constructed in 1962, but the modernized kafana survived until 1992, joined by the disco-club of the same name in the 1980s. Since 1992 it has been adapted into the branch of the Ponzi scheme of Dafiment Bank, casino, wine club and a supermarket, which all kept the name London. , built in 1830, hosted meyhane in the 19th century. The house survived as one of the rare edifices from that period in Belgrade and is protected by the state • "Manakova kuća"; in the Bosanska (now 7 Gavrila Principa) Street in Savamala. The house was built for the local Turkish agha and his harem. Cincar merchant Manojlo Manak acquired the house and opened the meyhane and bakery on the ground floor, while he lived upstairs. His cousin Manak Mihailović inherited the house and named the venue after his first name. In the early 20th century he brought a Czech capella, the first all-female music orchestra in Belgrade. • "Mostar"; originally "Tri ključa", it was named after the small bridge (most) across the Mokroluški potok, which emptied into the Sava nearby. The wooden bridge was regularly destroyed during the seasonal floods. Kafana gave its name to the modern Mostar neighborhood and the large interchange. • "Novi Beograd"; opened in 1924 by Petar Kokotović in the informal suburban settlement of Tošin Bunar. The name was prophetic as the modern municipality New Belgrade was named that way in 1948. • "Nica"; located on the sandy beach across the Sava, in the modern Ušće in New Belgrade. It was one of the favorite vacation spots during Interbellum. People were transported from the city by the small boats. Originally only one in the entire string of kafanas along the unurbanized bank ("Ostend", "Zdravlje", "Abadžija", "Jadran", "Krf", "Dubrovnik", "Adrija", etc.), it was the only one that survived construction of the King Alexander Bridge in the early 1930s. The beach was finally closed in 1938 when the construction of the embankment began. • "Pariz"; originally "Ćosina kafana", founded in the 1830s by Anđelko Alekić Ćosa, who began construction of the new building in 1868. Hotel and kafana were finished in 1870. It was situated between "Kasina" and "Takovo". Location of the first Serbian comedy theatre "Orfeum". First Serbian feature film The Life and Deeds of the Immortal Leader Karađorđe, was partially filmed in the venue, and later shown in it. Later moved to Džordža Vašingtona Street. • "Slavija"; original hotel and kafana were built from 1882 to 1888. It had a big party hall and a spacious summer garden. It hosted recitals, theatrical shows and choirs performances. She established the venue around 1840 and operated it with her daughters. During Interbellum, the name Zeleni Venac spread to the entire neighborhood. • "Zlatna lađa"; was built by wealthy merchant Miša Anastasijević. In business until the World War I, it was a meeting place of the merchants and prominent people during the reign of Prince Miloš. Zemun As Zemun was a border town between Austria(-Hungary) and Turkey/Serbia, from 1730 to 1871 there was Kontumac, or the quarantine hospital, on the location of the modern City Park. As Zemun was an important trading post, Kontumac was also a duty-free zone. It contained residential quarters during stay in the zone. Having large number of people in one place, hospitality and catering services developed around the zone, and numerous kafanas were opened: "Kod zlatnog krsta", "Kod zlatnog točka", "Kod cara", "Kod zlatnog slona", "Kod zlatnog sunca", etc. Modern period After World War II, night life dwindled. City was heavily damaged, population was cut by half, and it took a while to establish a proper public transportation grid to allow the commuting. Apart from the surviving "legends", new kafanas which became centers of night life in the 1950s-1960s were adjoined to the sports clubs and stadiums, like "Mladi Proleter", "Sinđelić", "Obilić" or "Stadion". Clientele often included footballers and other athletes. Another hub of night life included riverbank kafanas held by the fishermen, especially in Zemun. Popular entertainment and technological progress also hampered the importance of kafanas. Radio Belgrade began airing non-stop, including immensely popular comedy shows which emptied the streets, like the Joyful Evening (). In 1958 the broadcast of the Television Belgrade began. and the oldest "Džakarta", across the Studentski Grad, better known by its original and present name "Tošin Bunar". As the first kafana on the boat, "Split" has historical importance as the precursor of splavovi. The restaurant was opened in 1970, but the ship was much older. On the orders of the Serbian Royal Navy Society, it was built in 1892 in Regensburg, Germany, as the luxurious paddle steamer, and originally named Emperor Nicholas II. It was sent mostly on diplomatic missions, like International Danube Commission. It was part of the ill-fated Kladovo transport in World War II. After the war it was renamed Split, docked under the Branko's Bridge, and adapted into the restaurant. The steerage was adapted into the private rooms and used for prostitution, so the police often raided the venue. The ship is since 1992 on the dry dock in Kladovo, being declared a cultural monument in 2006. In time kafanas evolved into the westernized restaurants, but many traditional ones survived, and remained part of Belgrade's tourist offer. Even today kafanas have been described as the "soul of Belgrade". Despite the development of the nightlife in modern sense in the 1960s, and diversification of the fun venues and their modernization to fit the younger population and foreign tourists, in the 2020s Skadarlija remains the second most visited attraction in Belgrade after the Belgrade Fortress, contributing to one third of the city's foreign currency income. Skadarlija (1938–1991), folk chansonnier, one of the most popular Serbian singer-songwriters, and a longtime performer in Skadarlija. Known for his personal bohemian lifestyle, he remained extremely popular with younger generations and his songs endured as the inevitable part of traditional nightlife Skadarlija partially preserved the ambience of the traditional urban architecture, including its archaic urban organization, and is known as the main bohemian quarter of Belgrade, similar to Paris' Montmartre. As similar Bohemian quarters, Skadarlija and Montmartre twinned on 22 October 1977. It began to develop in 1830 with the settlement of Gypsies in the abandoned trenches in front of the ramparts, followed by the Serbs and the Turks after 1835. An aqueduct, essentially a wall through the center of the street, was later constructed to conduct the stream of Bibijin Potok underground. Soon after the aqueduct was built, the first khans, precursors of later kafanas, were built along the foothill of the wall. The renovation and restoration of Skadarlija began in 1968 in accordance with the designs made by the group of prominent artists. They managed to preserve its existing values and introduced modern facilities without interfering with its historical features. In the late 1960s, Skadarlija regained fame as the center of young and bohemian artists. Since 1993, the official opening of the summer season in Skadarlija (restaurants are open the entire year) has been marked by rising a "bohemian flag". There is a special code of conduct for the restaurants and their employees. It includes the types of dishes on the menus, types of uniforms, table clothes or music allowed, and the knowledge of foreign languages. Especially popular was Sofka Nikolić. The first folk music star of newly formed Yugoslavia in the 1920s and 1930s, she published dozens of records, becoming one of the most commercial female singers in Europe. Musicians from Europe and United States were visiting her in Skadarlija, including Josephine Baker, who befriended her. Called "Queen of Skadarlija", Nikolić withdrew in 1939 when her young daughter, her only child, died. Čubura Another neighborhood synonymous for bohemian life was Čubura. Like Skadarlija, it was once an outer village-turned-suburb, along the local stream, Čuburski Potok. Differences included the clientele as Skadarlija was considered to be a fancy and fashionable place while Čubura used to be a gathering place of common people, and decades long communal neglect of Čubura compared to constant renovations in Skadarlija, which gave Čubura a certain flavor. In 1941, on the short distance along the Makenzijeva Street there were 30 kafanas. Čubura was described as "one vast kafana, open all hours". "Orač" was originally opened in Savinac. Though opened in 1949 on the location of former broadcloth making shop, it was remembered as "being much older". The venue was famous for its grill menu. Public protests and petitions followed its closing in 1996, when it was relocated to another location in Čubura, where former Vltava used to be. It was closed in January 2015. "Mlava", at 52 Cara Nikolaja, was an iconic kafana, known for "having a soul". Never a fancy locale, it reached its heyday in the 1970s and got "frozen in the 1980s", with traditional interior. It hosted equally bohemian, artistic elite, local population and construction workers from the nearby sites. By the 2010s it regained iconic status of the small, pampered oasis with the younger clientele and foreign visitors, but still was closed on 1 March 2013 as one of the last remaining "true Belgrade kafanas". "Trandafilović" was founded in 1929, and demolished in 1961 when authorities planned to cut the old plane tree in restaurants yard. After public protests, including poet who physically prevented workers from cutting the tree, authorities backed off. New building on the same location was finished in 1967 and the kafana moved in again. In the 21st century it was closed and turned into the household chemicals shop. Unlike preserved Skadarlija, Čubura's bohemianism was completely extinguished by the 2020s. Kafanas were closed one by one and the "spirit of Čubura" disappeared. One of the last kafanas, "Kolubara", was transformed into the betting facility while the famed "Čuburska lipa" was demolished in early 2018. It was named after the linden tree, planted in 1924, brought from Lipik spa. The tree was also cut. "Sokolac", at the corner of the Maksima Gorkog and Sazonova streets, was closed in 2017. Other kafanas Other famed venues, outside of Skadarlija, include: • "?"; opened in 1823, the oldest still operational kafana in Belgrade, with almost the same menu as 200 years ago. • "Golf"; built on top of Košutnjak in c.1930 and designed by Dragiša Brašovan as a rustic edifice with cellar, ground floor and a loft. The main, garden facing façade is made of 5 arched, glassed openings. The middle one serves as the door between the winter salon and summer garden. Main entrance is on the side of the building. It was named after the golf courses built in 1936, initiated by the regent, Prince Paul of Yugoslavia. There were 9 greens, considered by the foreign ambassadors "among the most beautiful in Europe". The building was restored in 1946. It was originally used as the children's vacation and recuperation facility. To prevent liquidation, it was taken over by the Hospitality Management Chamber which adapted it into the training facility for the Masters (from 1960 Catering) School in 1955. It was later annexed with several rooms and the great hall which continues into the terrace. The students were moved from the boarding rooms in Zeleni Venac into the restaurant in 1975, but the school moved out from the restaurant completely in 1978, which continued as a hospitality venue of its own. It is known for its tradition of cooked meals. Located in the offices of, and operated by, the Association of Writers of Serbia. Highly esteemed among the intellectual elite. Visited by numerous renowned writers, like Lawrence Durrell, Simone de Beauvoir, Jean-Paul Sartre, and others. • "Madera"; at 43 Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra, surrounded by the Tašmajdan Park. It was built in 1937, on the location of the former kafana "Smederevo". It was named after one of the guests brought high quality Madeira wine. • "Mornar"; One of the best known "journalists" kafana. The first venue with the electronic cash register in Belgrade (in the 1980s). • "Orašac"; in Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra, at Vukov Spomenik. Established in the late 19th century. Despite ups and downs, it is highly esteemed among the Belgrade bohemians, with some chroniclers suggesting it deserves to be declared a cultural monument. It is described as having the "best grill under the sun". City plans in 2001 included demolition of the venue, but it survived. In 2021, the plans were revived. • "Polet"; fish restaurant, located in Cvetni Trg, famous for its fried girice. It was founded in 1952, closed in 2014 and reopened in 2017. It was predated by the venue of the same name which was opened after World War I, itself built on the location of the military mess hall demolished after the 1903 May Coup. • "Poslednja Šansa"; situated in Tašmajdan Park, the first proper kafana in Belgrade which was officially opened 24/7. Opened in the 1950s as the "Kafe Tašmajdan", it was renamed in the 1960s. It was notorious for fighting and incidents almost every night. • "Proleće"; located in Topličin Venac, across the Park Vojvoda Vuk (known also as Park Proleće, after the venue), it was opened in the 1950s, on the location of its predecessor from the 1920s. it was reopened under the old name in December 2019. • "Stara Hercegovina"; "gastronomical Mecca" in Stari Grad, named "Skoplje" until 1991. • "Zlatno burence"; opened in 1866 in Prizrenska Street. Became gathering point of the Komite, members of the Serbian Chetnik Organization, and the recruitment center for the volunteers in the Serbian-Turkish and Balkan Wars. Original building was demolished in the early 1930s when the modern highrise was built on the location. Kafana is today situated close to its original location at the corner, where the stone barrel was placed as a symbol of the venue. Popular but probably false anecdote is that Winston Churchill, while working as a journalist and writing bad reports on Serbs, was beaten up in the kafana. The bohemian clientele included city's best known artists, writers, actors, journalists, musicians and city luminaries, like Momo Kapor, Pavle Vuisić, Mika Antić, , Minimaks, Bata Živojinović, Ivo Andrić, Zoran Radmilović, Olivera Marković, , Borislav Mihajlović Mihiz, , Zuko Džumhur, Bogdan Tirnanić. The name emerged in the 1960s, as many writers and journalists would "disappear" between three kafanas, sometimes for several days. The name was popularized in the early 1980s by the journalist Radmila Jovović. Journalists of the nearby Politika gathered in "Grmeč", of the Radio Belgrade in "Pod Lipom", while "Šumatovac" was a neutral, joint territory. The venues were also known for one of the symbols of the old-style Serbian kafanas: red-white checkered tablecloths. When Knez Mihailova Street was turned into the pedestrian zone in 1987, journalists asked the same for the Makedonska Street (where five additional kafanas formed "Octagon" with the Bermuda Triangle), but the motion wasn't adopted. • "Grmeč"; original venue, a beer hall "Kod Muse", was opened by the Lazić family in the mid-1930s, as the 25th kafana in the street. During the yard works, in order to arrange the pub's garden, a Roman sarcophagus with the body of a centurion, and pieces of sacral jewelry were discovered. They were all exhibited in the venue. As German occupational forces commandeered the building of the First Belgrade Gymnasium, the students attended classes here. After the war it was renamed after the Grmeč mountain. It was closed after the fire in June 2011 but was reopened in June 2018. • "Šumatovac"; at No. 33. A home to journalists, writers, opera singers, actors, athletes and professional gamblers. Atina's popularity was especially boosted in the 1970s and the 1980s, when it was adapted into the "express restaurant" (hot food bar) and became the first pizzeria in Belgrade. • "Kasina"; established in 1858 in a house on Terazije, later upgraded to a hotel. As some gambling was organized in it, it was named after Italian word casino. It was a "headquarter" of the members of the Progressive party. In 1918 it temporarily hosted the National Assembly and 1920-1921 the National Theatre. Present building was finished in 1922. Hotel survived until today, but not he restaurant, famous for its fast food-type sold Wiener schnitzels. • "Lion"; at the corner of Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra and Miloša Zečevića. It gave its name to the entire neighborhood. It was opened during Interbellum and named after the French city of Lyon. Clientele included state clerks, military officers, teachers and writers. After World War II it became a "typical socialist kafana", popular among the families for Sunday lunch, but also visited by the municipal clerks. In the 1990s turned into the restaurant and then brewery, before being closed by the end of the decade. The venue was later turned into the grocery store. • "Mihajlovac"; the best known kafana in Banovo Brdo. It was demolished in 2017 to make way for the massive, new building. • "Tri lista duvana"; "one of the most famous Belgrade kafanas ever" was founded in 1882 at the corner of the Bulevar Kralja Aleksandra and the Kneza Miloša Street. The first phone line in Serbia, long, was conducted here in 1883. The building was demolished in 1989 to make way for the Hilton Hotel which was never built. • "Zora"; located in the Balkan Cinema building, on the Makedonska Street side, it succeeded the pre-World War II kafana "Ruska lira". Pilots of the 6th Fighter Aviation Regiment, which defended the capital Belgrade, waited here for the orders in the wake of the German attack in 1941. A bit after the midnight on 6 April 1941 they were summoned and were transported to the airport in Tošin Bunar by the taxis which also waited all day in front of the building. In 2002 it was closed and the casino was opened instead. In 2012 another kafana was opened on the same location but was reported as "face-lifted for new customers" and as such "changed to unrecognizability and therefore repulsive to many". Others: "Marš na Drinu" (Dorćol, known for the secretive Serbian New Year celebrations during Communism), "Beli grad" (Zeleni Venac), "Morava", "Plitvice" (Šumice), "Složna braća" (demolished to make way for the Hotel Park), "Vardar" (Cvetni trg), "Tabor" (Vračar), "Mala Astronomija", "Velika astronomija" (both in Savinac), "Arilje", "Zona Zamfirova" (Cvetni trg, opened in 1937, demolished in 2011), "Prešernova klet" (Dečanska Street, since 1952, first slot club, then Black Turtle pub), "Dušanov grad" (Terazije), "Kragujevac", "Bosna", "Rad", "Starac Vujadin", "Stara varoš" (Zeleni venac). Cultural and historical significance , gathering place of the Young Bosnia revolutionaries in the 1910s Historian Dubravka Stojanović singles out kafanas from other institutions of the civil society (salons, clubs, associations), as the first institute of the new society, both in terms of chronology and importance. She described it as the first democratic space for which no "invitation" (literacy, membership card, party discipline) was needed. Due to the volatile history in the Balkans, various kafanas served as gathering places and recruitment centers for numerous wars and rebellions: "Crni Konj" (Zadarska Street; for individual fighters in the Serbian-Ottoman Wars), "Kragujevac" (Karađorđeva Street); Garibalidians, Italian volunteers in the Serbian-Turkish Wars of 1876–1878, "Zlatni Krst" (Serbian volunteers for the same conflict), etc. • 1881 - Serbian Journalists Association founded in "Građanska kasina". • 1896 - first public motion picture show in Serbia held in "Zlatni krst", on Terazije, on 6 June 1896, with Lumière brothers personally showing the film. King Aleksandar Obrenović was in the audience. The tickets were pricey and the films were screened for the next six months. The Lumière brothers' camera remained in Belgrade and is kept at Yugoslav Film Archive. • 1896 - first intercity phone line established from "Kolarac" to the city of Niš. On the Belgrade side there was a concert of the vocal ensemble "Stanković", while on the Niš side it was a singers' society "Branko". • 1900s - "Kolarac" was a regular meeting place of young officers headed by Dragutin Dimitrijević Apis, who here plotted the 1903 May Coup, which ended with the deaths of king Alexander and queen Draga, and termination of the Obrenović dynasty in 1903. Also, the first book fair in the city was held here. • 1910s - members of the revolutionary movement Young Bosnia, including Gavrilo Princip, gathered in the "Zlatna Moruna" and planned their actions, including the assassination of Archduke Franz Ferdinand of Austria in 1914, used by Austro-Hungary as the pretext for World War I. • in time, various neighborhoods of Belgrade or important buildings, were named after the kafanas: Zeleni Venac, London, Lipov Lad, Mostar, Lion, Čukarica, Cvetko, Golf, Gospodarska Mehana, Dva Bela Goluba, Palace Albanija, Ruski Car, Mihajlovac, Žagubica, Park "Tri ključa", etc. As of 2023, on the administrative territory of Belgrade, there were 18 former or still operational catering and tourist facilities which were declared cultural monuments: , built in 1926 in the main commercial and pedestrian zone, the Knez Mihailova Street. A cultural monument since 1987 == Modern nightlife ==
Modern nightlife
, founded in 1964, dance hall from 1966, disco club from 1969 Prolonged dance evenings "till dawn" (igranke) were the precursors of modern nightlife after World War II. In the new, Communist regime, new types of music became almost obligatory, like the , but in the period immediately following the Allied victory this music was mixed with Russian romances, jazz, swing and boogie-woogie. Western music especially became popular after the film Sun Valley Serenade with Glenn Miller's music reached Yugoslav cinemas. Dances included tango, waltz, foxtrot, slowfox, and especially popular trucking, or treskavac in Serbian ("shaking dance"). However, with political changes regime's attitude soon switched. By the end of 1945 the American music was labeled as "capitalist fun which spoils our youth and leads into sexual and other pathologies". Accused of undermining discipline and public moral, the trucking was officially banned in the early 1946. By 1951 the state propaganda attacked boogie-woogie ("eccentric, vulgar and decadent"), while entire public campaign was orchestrated in 1952 against jazz, which "influenced the animal sensations". This first post war period of dance nights lasted from 1945 to 1963. First night clubs, referred to as disko[teka] in Serbian, were opened in the second half of the 1960s as a result of the popularity of rock and roll. First rock and roll news can be found in press already in 1956. Public reaction lacked the disputes and rage of the previous types of music, like jazz or contemporary dance in the late 1940s and early 1950s. It appeared that the older generations didn't perceive rock and roll, nor the accompanying way of dancing or dressing as a problem, so the reaction was cold and indifferent. By this time, Yugoslavia was more open to foreign influences compared to other Communist states, citizens freely travelled abroad, and no one stopped creation of numerous rock bands, called , or VIS ("vocal-instrumental band"). It was closed in the late 1970s. Youth Center - 202 Belgrade Youth Center, at 22 Makedonska Street, was opened in 1964, while Dancing Hall was introduced on 16 October 1966. Live performances included the most popular rock bands of the day, like Siluete, Crni Biseri, Džentlmeni, Zlatni Dečaci. Club had a matinée (15:00-19:00) and night programs (19:30-21:00). It was adapted into the discothèque "202" in 1969 in collaboration with Radio Belgrade 202 station which directly broadcast the program from the club. The disco was noted for the lack of problems or incidents and as a meeting place of the children from the wealthy families ("working class youth almost couldn't be seen in it"). The club introduced several other "firsts", like girls without male companions, people dancing alone or after parties when selected groups would move to the upper floor for more quiet fun. The club was also called "Lola", after the street, and was hailed as the "only disco between Trieste and Vladivostok". Guests included members of the international jet-set who visited Belgrade: Pierre Cardin, Paco Rabanne, Catherine Deneuve, Judi Dench, Nina Ricci, Omar Sharif, Marisa Berenson, Alain Delon, Claudia Cardinale. During the day, rock bands were practicing in the club. The venue also hosted the first pop art exhibition in Yugoslavia, which included Roy Lichtenstein's graphics and Andy Warhol's lithographs. Opening was supported by the basketball club KK Crvena Zvezda. Though all the necessary permits were obtained, not everything went smooth. Municipal authorities debated about it, and some described it as a "lair for the young alcoholics, junkies, debauchers and rich kids." Owners claimed that the venue is a clean and decent location, adapted with taste which included the green Italian wallpapers and black floor linoleum. They also defended the club naming celebrities who were regular guests: Milena Dravić, Vera Čukić, Arsen Dedić, Branko Pleša, Biljana Nevajda. Neighboring citizens were against the club. They tried administratively to prevent it from being open but when that failed, they sabotaged the venue as they could, like throwing garbage at the guests who were entering the house. Concerns showed to be substantiated in the beginning, as the guests were making loud noise at the entrance and unbridled youngsters, mostly of wealthy parents, were causing too much of a commotion with their cars, vespas and motorbikes. Owners later placed two guards outside who had a specific duty to keep the noise down. Disco was opened on 29 February 1968. Originally, it had only one magnetophon. The music was various: funk, soul, disco, rock and roll, twist, waltz. The club was always known for the relaxed, home-style dress code (sweaters, hoodies, plaid shirts, no heavy make-up, high heels, tight jackets, etc.). As one of the first students' and night clubs in the city, and the only one from this period that still works, KST achieved cult status among the city youth. It became the central stage of the alternative cultural life in Belgrade and numerous bands began their careers or performed in the venues basements, improvised studios and workshops, next to the most popular bands of the era. The SKC have two main spaces inside: small club on the ground level and larger hall at the first floor. Parts of the building serve as the café and as the bookstore, and the venue also hosts art exhibitions. However, later in the 1970s, Belgrade began to resemble other world metropolises. Numerous internationally important events developed: theatrical festival BITEF, film festival FEST (1970), musical festival BEMUS, Belgrade jazz festival (1973), Belgrade review of Yugoslav film (1973), etc. Regarding night life, fashion or music, everything was generally toned down from the wild 1960s. Major influence came from the Western Europe, mainly through Italy, and was considered as something modern and advanced. Rock and roll was especially popular. Crveno i crno Disco club "Crveno i crno" was opened in 1970, in the Miloša Pocerca Street, in West Vračar. It soon achieved the cult status. The club was opened by Dejan Dodig Džamba, with the assistance of the Youth Organization of Savski Venac. Entry was free, but it lasted only for a season and was closed in 1971. Youth Organization tried to open another disco club on the same location by themselves, but they were unsuccessful. It was located at 28 Ilije Garašanina Street, in Tašmajdan. Its opening was described as night life's "excelleration". At the opening night, state and military top officials and members of the diplomatic corps were present. The caviar was served from the Josip Broz Tito's plates. At the peak of its popularity, "Cepelin" had 10,000 members. It had three dance floors, state of the art sound system and the interior was patterned after the famed London club "La Valbonne": floors covered with the black artificial leather, dominant brass ornaments, luxurious booths, plush covered armchairs, twenty different types of mirrors, 1,000 colored lightbulbs, and strobe lights above each dance floor. "Akademija" is described today as a "separate state" during the 1980s, and "city phenomenon", West-oriented, which forged a new culture of having fun, influenced by the unique concerts on the stage which was right next to the audience. With the neighboring "Zvezda", it was the main gathering point of the Belgrade youth of the decade. They are described as meeting point of two Belgrades - one, which smelled on beer, tobacco and marijuana, and the one with fragrances of the Western perfumes and Italian leather shoes. It was inconceivable at the time that one person would visit both venues. JAT skyscraper. Club "Šestica" was on the 6th floor One of the first barges, opened in the late 1970s. It was originally intended only for the employees of the JAT Airways, but soon became a gathering place for the regular clientele, becoming a famous venue in the city. It was derelict by the 2000s, when it was sold to a private owner. Before it was renovated, the barge detached and was taken by the river downstream. The owner took emergency measures to keep it afloat, but in January 2019 it sank under the heavy snowfall. The river barge itself was considered one of the best, produced in Smederevo. Other clubs In the mid-1980s, an expansion of new disco clubs began. Best known were: • "Hua Hua", also opened in 1983, close to the northern tip of Ada Ciganlija. It was the most popular splav in the 1980s. The venue was sold in 2013. Disco clubs lost the top position in night fun, as young people turned to the folkotheques (disco clubs with turbo-folk music) and splavovi, or barge-clubs. From the summer of 1996, the splavovi from Ušće spread along the bank of Staro Sajmište, too. The barges in Staro Sajmište were the first where "urban" splavovi appeared and the entire sub-culture originating in the venues became mainstream. This barges had "historical importance" for the expansion and acceptance of the venues as an authentic part of the Belgrade's nightlife and tourist offering. However, the constant public conflict between the cheap fun and criminal on the barges, and the solemnity of the neighborhood given its war history as a Sajmište concentration camp, continued for decades. Ultimately, all barges were moved out of Staro Sajmište by the late 2010s. A strict division developed, with folk venues on the one, and underground, alternative techno clubs on the other side, with the mainstream rock music almost disappearing. Estrada The splav opened in 1988 on the Sava Quay under the name "Pingvin", which was soon changed. The first purposely built barge-discotheque, it was a blueprint for all the future venues of this type. It was the first barge with a DJ, and a separated dance floor and booths for sitting. It was well visited since the opening, but the clientele changed in time. Originally, it was made from the "roamers" from all over the city, but with the general criminalization of the society, it became the gathering point for the members of the criminal clans from Zemun and New Belgrade. The club was closed and later reopened but became a "place to be avoided". Underground , a major figure being Svetlana Ceca Ražnatović. Her private life, with connections to criminal, mirrored the social paradigm of the era, further boosting her popularity Located in the cave below the Belgrade Fortress, it was known for the specific type of music: acid jazz, funk, drum and house. It enjoyed a cult status for years but after the change of proprietors, the choice of music also changed and the club began playing folk music. It was closed later. • "Bus", in Tašmajdan, close to the Tašmajdan stadium. It was located in a small edifice which extended from the real derelict bus which was later removed to make a room for the parking lot. • "Dolar", at the corner of 29 Novembra and Takovska streets, in the partly derelict shopping mall. More of a bar than a dancing club, it was known for the Pazi Škola evening, which later developed into the separate club with that name. • "Energija", at 8 Nušičeva Street, known for the Trashotheque nights, every Thursday. • "Inkognito", at 4 Nemanjina Street. In the 2000s replaced with the "Wash" club, which had a DJ's mixing console in the shape of the washing machine, while the walls were decorated with empty bottles of fabric softeners. Opened 7 days a week, it brought well known European DJs, and was one of the major points in the development of the clubbing in Belgrade. • "Gajba", at 71 Kneginje Zorke Street, today a "Monk's Bar". Known for its Funkyšljiva evenings. • "Kuća", in Savamala, at 5 Braće Krsmanovića Street. A dance club, reached through the door with a big gearwheel and the pink tunnel. Second floor was adapted into the lounge. The entire "clubbing entourage" of Belgrade visited here. It was closed in the early 2000s. • "Lale Happy People", actually a gift-shop in the Block 45 in New Belgrade, at the very edge of the city. Electronic music was mixed by Lale Happy People, the owner, DJ , Srđan Todorović, Goran Zmix Kovačević, Petko. • "Luv", in Braće Jerković, at 74-B Braće Jerković Street. Originally a place for šminkeri, it became a gathering place of the criminals (euphemistically referred to as the "tough guys"). Some of Belgrade's best-known gangsters, like Aleksandar Knežević Knele or Kristijan Golubović, had showdowns here. • "Magna House", at 9 Dragoslava Jovanovića Street, since 1998 restaurant "Gradonačelnik". • "Omen", techno rave club, located at 16 Obilićev Venac Street. Especially popular among the DJs, it was a small venue with intimate atmosphere. It had pinball machines at the entrance. • "Pećina", situated at the entry into the Tašmajdan's lagums beneath the park. Location of the "Ovo je moj grad" festival. • "Sara", a barge on Ada Ciganlija, the very first venue with solely electronic music. It was opened only for a year in 1994. • "Soul Food", at 6 Francuska Street, usually labeled as the "first club with strictly defined concept, shaped by the dance music". It was closed in 1997 when the clientele mostly moved to "Industrija". All the pioneers of the city's clubbing scene gathered here: DJs Vlada Janjić, Boža Podunavac, Gordan Paunović, Vlada Eye, Mark Wee, Deki S.T.R.O.B., etc. Another disco, with completely different musical direction was open later, named "F6" and later "Dot". • "Triton", splav, one of the most popular at the time. It was a large venue, which originally functioned as a "disco on the water". It was a location of numerous shootouts. • "Trozubac", located between the city's central square Terazije and Nušićeva Street. A gathering place of the criminals. • "Tube", corner of the Simina and Dobračina streets. == References ==
tickerdossier.comtickerdossier.substack.com