Color concentration is a proxy for
phytoplankton biomass. In this map, blue colors represent lower chlorophyll and reds represent higher chlorophyll. Satellite-measured chlorophyll is estimated based on
ocean color by how green the color of the water appears from space.
Water cycle, weather, and rainfall . Ocean water represents the largest body of water within the global
water cycle (oceans contain 97% of
Earth's water). Evaporation from the ocean moves water into the atmosphere to later rain back down onto land and the ocean. Oceans have a significant effect on the
biosphere. The ocean as a whole is thought to cover approximately 90% of the Earth's biosphere. Oceanic
evaporation, as a phase of the water cycle, is the source of most rainfall (about 90%),
Ocean temperatures affect
climate and
wind patterns that affect life on land. One of the most dramatic forms of
weather occurs over the oceans:
tropical cyclones (also called "typhoons" and "hurricanes" depending upon where the system forms). As the world's ocean is the principal component of Earth's
hydrosphere, it is integral to
life on Earth, forms part of the
carbon cycle and water cycle, and – as a huge
heat reservoir – influences climate and weather patterns.
Waves and swell The motions of the ocean surface, known as undulations or
wind waves, are the partial and alternate rising and falling of the ocean surface. The series of
mechanical waves that propagate along the interface between water and air is called
swell – a term used in
sailing,
surfing and
navigation. These motions profoundly affect ships on the surface of the ocean and the well-being of people on those ships who might suffer from
sea sickness. Wind blowing over the surface of a body of water forms waves that are perpendicular to the direction of the wind. The friction between air and water caused by a gentle breeze on a pond causes
ripples to form. A stronger gust blowing over the ocean causes larger waves as the moving air pushes against the raised ridges of water. The waves reach their maximum height when the rate at which they are travelling nearly matches the speed of the wind. In open water, when the wind blows continuously as happens in the Southern Hemisphere in the
Roaring Forties, long, organized masses of water called swell roll across the ocean. If the wind dies down, the wave formation is reduced, but already-formed waves continue to travel in their original direction until they meet land. The size of the waves depends on the
fetch, the distance that the wind has blown over the water and the strength and duration of that wind. When waves meet others coming from different directions, interference between the two can produce broken, irregular seas. Most waves are less than high Rogue waves, however, have been documented at heights above . The top of a wave is known as the crest, the lowest point between waves is the trough and the distance between the crests is the wavelength. The wave is pushed across the surface of the ocean by the wind, but this represents a transfer of energy and not horizontal movement of water. As waves approach land and
move into shallow water, they change their behavior. If approaching at an angle, waves may bend (
refraction) or wrap around rocks and headlands (
diffraction). When the wave reaches a point where its deepest oscillations of the water contact the
ocean floor, they begin to slow down. This pulls the crests closer together and increases the
waves' height, which is called
wave shoaling. When the ratio of the wave's height to the water depth increases above a certain limit, it "
breaks", toppling over in a mass of foaming water.
Earthquakes,
volcanic eruptions or other major geological disturbances can set off waves that can lead to
tsunamis in coastal areas which can be very dangerous.
Sea level and surface The
ocean's surface is an important reference point for oceanography and geography, particularly as mean
sea level. The ocean surface has globally little, but
measurable topography, depending on the ocean's volumes. The ocean surface is a crucial interface for oceanic and atmospheric processes. Allowing interchange of particles, enriching the air and water, as well as grounds by some particles becoming
sediments. This interchange has fertilized life in the ocean, on land and air. All these processes and components together make up
ocean surface ecosystems.
Tides , Canada Tides are the regular rise and fall in water level experienced by oceans, primarily driven by
the Moon's gravitational
tidal forces upon the Earth. Tidal forces affect all matter on Earth, but only
fluids like the ocean demonstrate the effects on human timescales. (For example, tidal forces acting on rock may produce
tidal locking between two planetary bodies.) Though primarily driven by the Moon's gravity, oceanic tides are also substantially modulated by the Sun's tidal forces, by the rotation of the Earth, and by the shape of the rocky continents blocking oceanic water flow. (Tidal forces vary more with distance than the "base" force of gravity: the Moon's tidal forces on Earth are more than double the Sun's, despite the latter's much stronger gravitational force on Earth. Earth's tidal forces upon the Moon are 20x stronger than the Moon's tidal forces on the Earth.) The primary effect of lunar tidal forces is to bulge Earth matter towards the near and far sides of the Earth, relative to the moon. The "perpendicular" sides, from which the Moon appears in line with the local horizon, experience "tidal troughs". Since it takes nearly 25 hours for the Earth to rotate under the Moon (accounting for the Moon's 28-day orbit around Earth), tides thus cycle over a course of 12.5 hours. However, the rocky continents pose obstacles for the tidal bulges, so the timing of tidal maxima may not actually align with the Moon in most localities on Earth, as the oceans are forced to "dodge" the continents. Timing and magnitude of tides vary widely across the Earth as a result of the continents. Thus, knowing the Moon's position does not allow a local to predict tide timings, instead requiring precomputed
tide tables which account for the continents and the Sun, among others. During each tidal cycle, at any given place the tidal waters rise to maximum height, high tide, before ebbing away again to the minimum level, low tide. As the water recedes, it gradually reveals the
foreshore, also known as the intertidal zone. The difference in height between the high tide and low tide is known as the
tidal range or tidal amplitude. When the sun and moon are aligned (full moon or new moon), the combined effect results in the higher "spring tides", while the sun and moon misaligning (half moons) result in lesser tidal ranges. Some of the largest tidal ranges in the world occur in the
Bay of Fundy and
Ungava Bay in Canada, reaching up to 16 meters. Other locations with record high tidal ranges include the
Bristol Channel between England and Wales,
Cook Inlet in Alaska, and the
Río Gallegos in Argentina. Tides are not to be confused with
storm surges, which can occur when high winds pile water up against the coast in a shallow area and this, coupled with a low pressure system, can raise the surface of the ocean dramatically above a typical high tide.
Depth The average depth of the oceans is about 4 km. More precisely the average depth is . This figure does not include seas not connected to the World Ocean, such as the
Caspian Sea. The deepest region of the ocean is at the
Mariana Trench, located in the Pacific Ocean near the
Northern Mariana Islands. The maximum depth has been estimated to be . The British naval vessel
Challenger II surveyed the trench in 1951 and named the deepest part of the trench the "
Challenger Deep". In 1960, the
Trieste successfully reached the bottom of the trench, manned by a crew of two men.
Oceanic zones Oceanographers classify the ocean into vertical and horizontal zones based on physical and biological conditions. The
pelagic zone consists of the
water column of the open ocean, and can be divided into further regions categorized by light abundance and by depth.
Grouped by light penetration The ocean zones can be grouped by light penetration into (from top to bottom): the photic zone, the mesopelagic zone and the aphotic deep ocean zone: • The
photic zone is defined to be "the depth at which light intensity is only 1% of the surface value". This is usually up to a depth of approximately 200 m in the open ocean. It is the region where
photosynthesis can occur and is, therefore, the most
biodiverse. Photosynthesis by plants and microscopic
algae (free floating
phytoplankton) allows the creation of organic matter from chemical precursors including water and carbon dioxide. This organic matter can then be consumed by other creatures. Much of the organic matter created in the photic zone is consumed there but some sinks into deeper waters. The pelagic part of the photic zone is known as the
epipelagic. If a zone undergoes dramatic changes in salinity with depth, it contains a halocline. If a zone undergoes a strong, vertical chemistry gradient with depth, it contains a chemocline. Temperature and salinity control ocean water density. Colder and saltier water is denser, and this density plays a crucial role in regulating the global water circulation within the ocean. The halocline often coincides with the thermocline, and the combination produces a pronounced pycnocline, a boundary between less dense surface water and dense deep water.
Grouped by distance from land The pelagic zone can be further subdivided into two sub regions based on distance from land: the
neritic zone and the
oceanic zone. The neritic zone covers the water directly above the
continental shelves, including
coastal waters. On the other hand, the oceanic zone includes all the completely open water. The
littoral zone covers the region between low and high tide and represents the transitional area between marine and terrestrial conditions. It is also known as the
intertidal zone because it is the area where tide level affects the conditions of the region.
Temperature Ocean temperatures depends on the amount of solar radiation falling on its surface. In the tropics, with the Sun nearly overhead, the
temperature of the surface layers can rise to over while near the poles the temperature in equilibrium with the
sea ice is about . There is a continuous circulation of water in the oceans. Warm surface currents cool as they move away from the tropics, and the water becomes denser and sinks. The cold water moves back towards the equator as a deep sea current, driven by changes in the temperature and density of the water, before eventually welling up again towards the surface. Deep ocean water has a temperature between and in all parts of the globe. The temperature gradient over the water depth is related to the way the surface water mixes with deeper water or does not mix (a lack of mixing is called
ocean stratification). This depends on the temperature: in the tropics the warm surface layer of about 100 m is quite stable and does not mix much with deeper water, while near the poles winter cooling and storms makes the surface layer denser and it mixes to great depth and then stratifies again in summer. The
photic depth is typically about 100 m (but varies) and is related to this heated surface layer. Because sea ice is less
dense than water, it floats on the ocean's surface (as does fresh water ice, which has an even lower density). Sea ice covers about 7% of the Earth's surface and about 12% of the world's oceans. Sea ice usually starts to freeze at the very surface, initially as a very thin ice film. As further freezing takes place, this ice film thickens and can form
ice sheets. The ice formed incorporates some
sea salt, but much less than the seawater it forms from. As the ice forms with low salinity this results in saltier residual seawater. This in turn increases density and promotes vertical sinking of the water.
Ocean currents and global climate ; blue represents deep-water currents, whereas red represents surface currents.|thumb|upright=1.15|right|alt=World map with colored, directed lines showing how water moves through the oceans. Cold deep water rises and warms in the central Pacific and in the Indian, whereas warm water sinks and cools near Greenland in the North Atlantic and near Antarctica in the South Atlantic.
Types of ocean currents An
ocean current is a continuous, directed flow of seawater caused by several forces acting upon the water. These include wind, the
Coriolis effect,
temperature and
salinity differences. Ocean currents are primarily horizontal water movements that have different origins such as tides for tidal currents, or wind and waves for surface currents. Tidal currents are in phase with the
tide, hence are
quasiperiodic; associated with the influence of the moon and sun pull on the ocean water. Tidal currents may form various complex patterns in certain places, most notably around
headlands. Non-periodic or non-tidal currents are created by the action of winds and changes in
density of water. In littoral zones,
breaking waves are so intense and the depth measurement so low, that maritime currents reach often 1 to 2
knots. The
wind and
waves create surface currents (designated as "drift currents"). These currents can decompose in one quasi-permanent current (which varies within the hourly scale) and one movement of
Stokes drift under the effect of rapid waves movement (which vary on timescales of a couple of seconds). The quasi-permanent current is accelerated by the breaking of waves, and in a lesser governing effect, by the friction of the wind on the surface. Such a weakening could cause large changes to global climate, with the North Atlantic particularly vulnerable. == Chemical properties ==