T = 5 s and a mean water depth of 25 m.
Left: instantaneous horizontal
flow velocities.
Right:
average flow velocities. Black solid line: average Eulerian velocity; red dashed line: average Lagrangian velocity, as derived from the
Generalized Lagrangian Mean (GLM). The Stokes drift was formulated for
water waves by
George Gabriel Stokes in 1847. For simplicity, the case of
infinitely deep water is considered, with
linear wave propagation of a
sinusoidal wave on the
free surface of a fluid layer: : \eta = a \cos(kx - \omega t), where :
η is the
elevation of the
free surface in the
z direction (meters), :
a is the wave
amplitude (meters), :
k is the
wave number:
k = 2
π/
λ (
radians per meter), :
ω is the
angular frequency:
ω = 2
π/
T (
radians per
second), :
x is the horizontal
coordinate and the wave propagation direction (meters), :
z is the vertical
coordinate, with the positive
z direction pointing out of the fluid layer (meters), :
λ is the
wave length (meters), :
T is the
wave period (
seconds). As derived below, the horizontal component
ūS(
z) of the Stokes drift velocity for deep-water waves is approximately: : \bar{u}_\text{S} \approx \omega k a^2 \text{e}^{2kz} = \frac{4\pi^2 a^2}{\lambda T} \text{e}^{4\pi z / \lambda}. As can be seen, the Stokes drift velocity
ūS is a nonlinear quantity in terms of the wave
amplitude a. Further, the Stokes drift velocity decays exponentially with depth: at a depth of a quarter wavelength,
z = −
λ/4, it is about 4% of its value at the mean
free surface,
z = 0.
Derivation It is assumed that the waves are of
infinitesimal amplitude and the
free surface oscillates around the
mean level
z = 0. The waves propagate under the action of gravity, with a
constant acceleration vector by
gravity (pointing downward in the negative
z direction). Further the fluid is assumed to be
inviscid and
incompressible, with a constant
mass density. The fluid
flow is
irrotational. At infinite depth, the fluid is taken to be at
rest. Now the
flow may be represented by a
velocity potential φ, satisfying the
Laplace equation and : \omega^2 = gk with
g the
acceleration by
gravity in (m/s2). Within the framework of
linear theory, the horizontal and vertical components,
ξx and
ξz respectively, of the Lagrangian position
ξ are : \begin{align} \xi_x &= x + \int \frac{\partial \varphi}{\partial x}\, \text{d}t = x - a \text{e}^{kz} \sin(kx - \omega t), \\ \xi_z &= z + \int \frac{\partial \varphi}{\partial z}\, \text{d}t = z + a \text{e}^{kz} \cos(kx - \omega t). \end{align} The horizontal component
ūS of the Stokes drift velocity is estimated by using a
Taylor expansion around
x of the Eulerian horizontal velocity component
ux = ∂
ξx / ∂
t at the position
ξ: : \begin{align} \bar{u}_\text{S} &= \overline{u_x(\boldsymbol{\xi}, t)} - \overline{u_x(\mathbf{x}, t)} \\ &= \overline{\left[ u_x(\mathbf{x}, t) + (\xi_x - x) \frac{\partial u_x(\mathbf{x}, t)}{\partial x} + (\xi_z - z) \frac{\partial u_x(\mathbf{x}, t)}{\partial z} + \cdots \right]} - \overline{u_x(\mathbf{x} ,t)} \\ &\approx \overline{(\xi_x - x) \frac{\partial^2 \xi_x}{\partial x\, \partial t}} + \overline{(\xi_z - z) \frac{\partial^2 \xi_x}{\partial z\, \partial t}} \\ &= \overline{\left[-a \text{e}^{kz} \sin(kx - \omega t)\right] \left[-\omega ka \text{e}^{kz} \sin(kx - \omega t)\right]} \\ &+ \overline{\left[a \text{e}^{kz} \cos(kx - \omega t)\right] \left[\omega ka \text{e}^{kz} \cos(kx - \omega t)\right] } \\ &= \overline{\omega ka^2 \text{e}^{2kz} \left[\sin^2(kx - \omega t) + \cos^2(kx - \omega t)\right]} \\ &= \omega ka^2 \text{e}^{2kz}. \end{align} ==See also==