near the town of
Kazanlak in
Bulgaria, 1870s, engraving by
Austro-Hungarian traveller
Felix Philipp Kanitz Due to the labor-intensive production process and the low content of oil in the rose blooms, rose oil commands a very high price. Harvesting of flowers is done by hand in the morning before
sunrise, and the material is distilled the same day. There are three main methods of extracting the oil from the plant material: •
Steam distillation, which produces an
essential oil called
rose otto or
attar of roses. •
Solvent extraction, which results in an
absolute called
rose absolute. •
Supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, yielding a
concrete that may be marketed as a
concrete,
absolute or
extract.
Distillation In the first part of the two-stage process of distillation, large stills – traditionally of copper – are filled with roses and water. The still is fired for 60–105 minutes. The vaporized water and rose oil exit the still and enter a condensing apparatus and are then collected in a flask. This distillation yields a very concentrated oil, direct oil, which makes up about 20% of the final product of the whole process. The water which condenses along with the oil is drained off and redistilled,
cohobation, in order to obtain the water-soluble fractions of the rose oil such as
phenethyl alcohol which are a vital component of the aroma and which make up the large bulk, 80%, of the oil. The two oils are combined and make the final rose attar. Rose attar is mobile in room temperature and is usually clear, light yellow in color. It will form white crystals at normal room temperature which disappear when the oil is gently warmed. It will tend to become more
viscous at lower temperatures due to this crystallization of some of its components. The essence has a very strong odor, but is pleasant when diluted and used for perfume. Attar of roses was once made in India, Persia, Syria, and the Ottoman Empire. The
Rose Valley in Bulgaria, near the town of
Kazanlak, is among the major producers of attar of roses in the world. In India,
Kannauj is an important city of fabrication of rose attar,
Kannauj is nicknamed "The Grasse of the East" or "The Grasse of the Orient".
Grasse (in France) is an important city of fabrication of rose fragrance. Due to the heat required for distillation, some of the compounds extracted from the rose
denature or break down chemically. As such, rose attar does not smell very similar to "fresh" roses. The
hydrosol portion of the distillate is known as
rosewater. This inexpensive by-product is used widely as a food flavoring as well as in skin care.
Solvent extraction In the solvent extraction method, the flowers are agitated in a vat with a
solvent such as
hexane, which draws out the
aroma compounds as well as other soluble substances such as
wax and
pigments. The extract is subjected to vacuum processing which removes the solvent for re-use. The remaining waxy mass is known as a
concrete. The concrete is then mixed with
alcohol which dissolves the aromatic constituents, leaving behind the wax and other substances. The alcohol is low-pressure evaporated, leaving behind the finished absolute. The absolute may be further processed to remove any impurities that are still present from the solvent extraction. Rose absolute is a deep reddish brown with no crystals. Due to the low temperatures in this process, the absolute may be more faithful to the
scent of the fresh rose than the otto.
Carbon dioxide extraction A third process,
supercritical carbon dioxide extraction, combines the best aspects of the other two methods. When carbon dioxide is put under at least of pressure and at a temperature of at least (the
critical point), it becomes a supercritical fluid with the permeation properties of a gas and the solvation properties of a liquid. (Under normal pressure changes directly from a solid to a gas in a process known as
sublimation.) The supercritical fluid extracts the aromatics from the plant material. Like solvent extraction, the extraction takes place at a low temperature, extracts a wide range of compounds rendering an essence more faithful to the original, and leaves the aromatics unaltered by heat. Because is gas at normal
atmospheric pressure, it leaves no trace of itself in the final product. The equipment for extraction is expensive, which is reflected in the price of the essential oils obtained from the process.
Adulteration It takes a large amount of rose
petals to distill a small amount of essential oil. Depending on extraction method and plant species, the typical yield can be approximately 1:3,000. To mitigate the cost, most dealers dilute rose oil with
Citronellol,
Geraniol,
Geranium or
Palmarosa (
Cymbopogon martinii) essential oils, both of which are rich in
Geraniol, the main constituent of rose oil. Some of these "rose oils" are up to 90% geranium or palmarosa to 10% rose. This is referred to as
extending the rose fragrance. This may be done to compensate for chemotype, e.g. Bulgarian distilled rose oil is naturally low in phenylethanol, and Ukrainian or Russian rose oil is naturally high in phenylethanol. Pure rose oil should not be used directly on the skin, as it can cause allergic reactions such as red skin and spots.
History Rosa ×
damascena is a cultivated flower not found in the wild. Recent genetic tests indicate that it is a hybrid of
R. moschata x
R. gallica crossed with the pollen of
Rosa fedtschenkoana, which indicates a probable origin in the foothills of
central Asia or Iran. Rose oil likely originated in
ancient Iran where the production technique was invented.
Bulgarian rose oil Bulgarian rose oil is generally characterized by the following qualities: • It differs to other rose oils in the quantitative content of its ingredients. About 283 components have been identified in the composition of Bulgarian rose oil. They are divided into two groups of substances: • odor carriers – represent the liquid part of the oil-eleoptene; • odor fixatives – hard at room temperature and odorless, but fix the odor and give it durability-stearoptene. Of the many components of eleoptene with a rosy odor are citronellol, geraniol, nerol, phenylethyl alcohol, but the typical rose odor is also formed by the presence of some characteristic molecules in trace amounts. • contains:
ethanol (up to 3%),
linalool (1 to 3%),
phenethyl alcohol(up to 3%),
citronellol (24 to 35%),
nerol (5 to 12%),
geraniol (13 to 22%),
geranyl acetate (up to 1.5%),
eugenol (up to 2.5%),
methyl eugenol (up to 2%) and
farnesol (at least 1.4%); hydrocarbons – C17 heptadecane (from 1 to 2.5%), C19 saturated hydrocarbon nonadecane CH3 (CH2) 17CH3 (from 8 to 15%), C19 unsaturated hydrocarbon with one or more double carbon bonds nonadecene CH3 (CH2) 16CH = CH2 from 2 to 5%), C21
heneicosane (from 3 to 5.5%) and C23
tricosane (from 0.5 to 1.5%). • It has a light yellow color with a greenish tinge; • It resembles almond oil in consistency; • It has a strong aroma and sharp balsamic taste; • It has an excellent combination of liquid and solid components. ==References==