As discussed in
types of climbing, rock climbing protection devices are mainly used in traditional climbing and in sport climbing, both of which can be done in single and multi-pitch formats. In addition, clean aid climbing also uses many of the traditional climbing protection devices.
Temporary Temporary protection devices (also known as
pro,
gear or the
rack), provide the means to place temporary anchor points on the rock to which a
lead climber can clip their rope (via a quickdraw) when
traditional climbing; they also can be used for anchor points for belaying and abseiling. The devices are categorized as being
active (i.e. they dynamically move or adjust in the case of a fall), or
passive (i.e., they maintain a static position throughout). •
Big Bros (or tube chocks) are large hollow telescopic aluminum tubes manufactured by Trango whose width can be dynamically adjusted to fit across large
off-width cracks that are too wide for standard SLCDs. •
Removable bolts (or RBs) are a type of SLCD for insertion into pre-drilled bolt holes, but instead of using cams, the system uses a metal tube that once inserted expands to grip against the walls of the hole. Less frequently in use, their main application is for climbers creating bolted routes. Nuts come in many varieties (e.g. offset-shaped HB nuts, micro nuts, and brass RP nuts). Where the Australian
carrot bolts are common, the wire loop can be used as an emergency substitute for a bolt plate, like a
rivet hanger. •
Hexes are hollow asymmetrical hexagonal tubes attached to a loop of
cord, particularly for large hexes, or wire. Often wider than nuts, their asymmetrical shape allows their use in parallel and even widening cracks. They are placed like a nut ideally into a narrowing section of the crack and any fall will cause the hex to twist in its placement, thus exerting sideways force on the wall of the crack. Modern climbers tend to use SLCDs over hexes.
Fixed Fixed protection devices are permanent on-site anchors to which a lead climber can clip their rope – often via a quickdraw – when they are
sport climbing; they also can be used to create anchor points for belaying and abseiling. The main types are: A
bolt hanger is attached into which carabiners and quickdraws can be clipped. Modern stainless steel bolts last for over a decade but have a finite life span after which they must be replaced. Titanium bolts may be used for even greater durability, or in harsher environments like sea-side cliffs, but these are more expensive. Some bolted
crags use fixed
permadraws, which are on-site wire or chain quickdraws that are permanently attached to the bolt hangers. •
Pitons pre-date bolts and are steel spikes – the older versions were made from iron – that could be hammered into cracks in the rock and that have an eye-hole for attaching a carabiner (some would have pre-installed metal rings). Unlike bolts, pitons need a crack into which they can be hammered, and come in a wide variety of shapes and designs (e.g.
angles,
knifeblades, lost arrows) to fit various cracks, and even micro-cracks like
RURPs. Pitons have been largely replaced by the stronger bolts as the fixed protection of choice but are still an important part of big wall climbing, alpine and aid climbing (but not clean aid climbing, which rules out any use of hammers). ==Aid equipment==