The Roman-era cookbook
Apicius includes a recipe for ragout with
ostrich meat. According to a translation by Patrick Faas, it incorporated
dates, honey, vinegar,
garum (a fish sauce),
passum (a dessert wine), and spices such as pepper, mint, roast cumin, and celery seed. The
Apicius recipe suggests boiling all the ingredients save for the ostrich meat together in a pot, binding them with
starch, and pouring the mixture over boiled ostrich meat, while Faas, in his reconstruction, tells the reader to first make a
roux with flour and olive oil and add
passum, spices, honey, vinegar, dates, and
garum in a certain order, after which the reader can then stir in the ostrich meat, which he says can be roasted or fried. Two 18th-century English dishes from
The Complete Housewife show some of the varying meats, vegetables, seasonings, garnishes and procedures which can be applied to the ragoût.
A Ragu for made Dishes TAKE
claret, gravy, sweet-herbs, and savoury spice, toss up in it lamb-stones (i.e. lamb's
testicles), cock's-combs, boiled, blanched, and sliced, with sliced sweet-meats, oysters, mushrooms,
truffles, and morels; thicken these with
brown butter; use it when called for.
To make a Ragu of Pigs-Ears TAKE a quantity of pigs-ears, and boil them in one half wine and the other water; cut them in small pieces, then brown a little butter, and put them in, and a pretty deal of gravy, two anchovies, an
eschalot or two, a little mustard, and some slices of lemon, some salt and
nutmeg: stew all these together, and shake it up thick. Garnish the dish with
barberries. In his 19th-century culinary dictionary,
Alexandre Dumas credits ragouts with making "the ancient French cuisine shine". He gives several examples including
salpicons, made with a variety of meats and vegetables like mushrooms, artichokes, truffles,
quenelles, and sweetbreads. According to Dumas each ingredient is cooked separately. The "Ordinary Salpicon" includes veal sweetbreads, ham, mushrooms,
foie gras and truffles served in
espagnole sauce. Celery ragout is cooked in bouillon seasoned with salt,
nutmeg and pepper. Cucumber ragout is made with
velouté sauce. One ragout is made with
madeira,
chestnuts and
chipolata sausages cooked in bouillon with espagnole sauce. ==In popular culture==