Toponymy The earliest recorded form of the name,
Regulbium, is in
Latin and dates from the early 5th century or before, but it had its origin in a
Common Brittonic word meaning "at the promontory" or "great headland". In
Old English this became corrupted to
Raculf, sometimes given as
Raculfceastre, giving rise to the modern "Reculver". The form "Raculfceastre" includes the Old English place-name element "
ceaster", which frequently relates to "a [Roman] city or walled town".
Prehistoric and Roman between it and the
Isle of Thanet: Gardiner, S.R.,
A School Atlas Of English History, 1892
Stone Age flint tools have been washed out from the cliffs to the west of Reculver, and a
Mesolithic tranchet axe was found near the centre of the
Roman fort in 1960. This was probably an accidental loss, rather than suggesting a human settlement, evidence for which begins with late
Bronze Age and
Iron Age ditches. These indicate an extensive settlement, where a Bronze Age
palstave and Iron Age gold coins have been found. This was followed by a "fortlet" built by the Romans during their
conquest of Britain, which began in 43 AD, and the existence of a
Roman road leading to Canterbury, about to the south-west, indicates a Roman presence at Reculver from then onwards. A full-size fort, or
castrum, was started late in the 2nd century. This date is derived in part from a reconstruction of a uniquely detailed plaque, fragments of which were found by archaeologists in the 1960s. The plaque effectively records the establishment of the fort, since it commemorates the construction of two of its principal features, the
basilica and the
sacellum, or
shrine, both being parts of the headquarters building, or
principia: These structures were found by archaeologists, together with probable officers' quarters, barracks and a
bath house. A Roman oven found south-east of the fort was probably used for drying food such as
corn and fish; its main chamber measured about 16 feet (4.9 m) by 15 feet (4.8 m) overall. The fort was located on a low hill, beyond which a long promontory then projected north-eastwards into the sea and formed the north-eastern extremity of mainland Kent: thus it offered observation on all sides, including both the
Thames Estuary and the
sea lane later known as the
Wantsum Channel, which lay between it and the
Isle of Thanet. It was probably built by soldiers of the
Cohors I Baetasiorum, originally from
Lower Germany, who had previously served at the Roman fort of
Alauna at
Maryport in
Cumbria at least until the early 180s, since tiles recovered from the fort are stamped "CIB". The
Notitia Dignitatum, a Roman administrative document from the early 5th century, also records the presence of the
Cohors I Baetasiorum at Reculver, then known as
Regulbium. There must also have been a harbour nearby in Roman times, and, though this has not yet been found, it was probably near to the fort's southern or eastern side. The walls of the fort originally stood about high and were thick at their base, reducing to at the top; they were reinforced internally by an earthen bank. The entrance to the fort's headquarters building faced north, indicating that the main gate was on the north side, facing the eponymous promontory and the sea. The north wall has been lost to the sea, along with the adjoining part of the east wall and most of the west wall; the east wall is most complete and includes the remains of the eastern gateway and guard post. Parts of the surviving walls are all that remains of the fort above ground, and all have suffered from stone-robbing, especially near the south-western corner. The walls were originally faced with
ragstone, but very little of this remains: otherwise only the cores of the walls are visible, consisting mostly of flint and concrete and standing only high at their highest. '' fort, seen from its south-eastern corner Roman forts were normally accompanied by a civilian settlement, or
vicus: at Reculver this lay outside the north and west sides of the fort, much of it in areas now lost to the sea, and was extensive, perhaps covering "some ten hectares [25 acres] in all." In 1936 R.F. Jessup noted that "a Roman building with a
hypocaust and
tesselated [floor once] stood considerably to the northward of the fort": this structure had been observed by the 18th-century antiquarian
John Battely, and was probably "an external bath relating to [an early phase of] the fort." In the same area Battely described "several
cisterns" between 10 and 12 feet (3–3.7 m) square, lined with oak planks and sealed at the bottom with
puddled clay. He believed that these were for storing rainwater, and noted that a Roman
strigil, which would have been used in a bath house, had been found in a similar cistern at Reculver; he also observed that "such a multitude [of cisterns] has been discovered, almost in our memory, as proves that the ancient inhabitants of the place were very numerous." In the 20th century twelve
wells of the Roman period were identified to the west of the fort, ten of which were square; all were cut into the hard layer of sandstone below the soft sandstone of the
Thanet Beds, thus tapping into the
water table. These and other 20th-century finds from the Roman period extend to west of the fort, and date to a period between 170 and 360, roughly coinciding with the period of occupation at the fort itself. At least 10 infant burials have been found within the fort, all of babies, of which six were associated with Roman buildings: five sets of infant remains were found within the foundations and walls of buildings, as were coins dating from 270 to 300 AD. It was suspected that more such burials might be found in the walls of a building in the south-western area of the fort if it were excavated further. A baby's feeding bottle was also found in an excavated floor within of one of the infant skeletons, though it may have been unconnected with the burials. The babies were probably buried in the buildings as
ritual sacrifices, but it is unknown whether they were selected for burial because they were already dead, perhaps stillborn, or if they were buried alive or killed for the purpose. A local tale subsequently developed that the grounds of the fort were haunted by the sound of a crying baby. Towards the end of the 3rd century a Roman naval commander named
Carausius, who later declared himself emperor in Britain, was given the task of clearing pirates from the sea between Britain and the European mainland. In so doing he established a new chain of command, the British part of which was later to pass under the control of a
Count of the Saxon Shore. The
Notitia Dignitatum shows that the fort at Reculver became part of this arrangement, and its location meant that it lay at the "main point of contact in the system [of Saxon Shore forts]". Archaeological evidence indicates that it was abandoned in the 370s. Antiquarians such as the 18th-century clergyman
John Duncombe believed that King
Æthelberht of Kent moved his royal court there from Canterbury in about 597, and built a palace on the site of the Roman ruins. However, archaeological excavation has shown no evidence of this; Æthelberht's household would have been peripatetic, and the story has been described as probably a "pious legend". A church was built on the site of the Roman fort in about 669, when King
Ecgberht of Kent granted land for the foundation of a monastery, which was dedicated to
St Mary. The monastery developed as the centre of a "large estate, a manor and a parish", and, by the early 9th century, it had become "extremely wealthy", but it then fell under the control of the
archbishops of Canterbury. In 811 Archbishop
Wulfred is recorded as having deprived the monastery of some of its land, and soon after it featured in a "monumental showdown" between Wulfred and King
Coenwulf of Mercia over the control of monasteries. In 838 control of all monasteries under Canterbury's authority was passed to the kings of
Wessex, by the agreement of Archbishop
Ceolnoth in exchange for protection from
Viking attacks. By the 10th century the monastery at Reculver and its estate were both royal property: they were given back to the archbishops of Canterbury in 949 by King
Eadred of England, at which time the estate included
Hoath and
Herne, and land at
Chilmington, about to the south-west, and in the west of the Isle of Thanet. By 1066 the monastery had become a
parish church. However, in 1086 Reculver was named in the
Domesday Book of 1086 as a
hundred, and the manor was valued at £42.7s. (£42.35). Included in the Domesday account for the manor, as well as the church, farmland, a mill,
salt pans and a fishery, are 90
villeins and 25
bordars: these numbers can be multiplied four or five times to account for dependents, as they only represent "adult male heads of households". At that time, although Domesday Book records that Reculver belonged to the archbishop of Canterbury in both 1066 and 1086, in reality it must again have been lost to him, since
William the Conqueror is recorded as having returned it, among other churches and properties, to the archbishop at his death. In the 13th century Reculver was a parish of "exceptional wealth", and the considerable enlargement of the church building during the
Middle Ages indicates that the settlement had become a "thriving township", with "dozens of houses". In 1310 Archbishop
Robert Winchelsey of Canterbury noted that the population of the whole parish in the time of his predecessor
John Peckham (
c. 1230–1292) had numbered more than 3,000. For this reason, and because the parish was also large geographically, he converted
chapelries at Herne and, on the Isle of Thanet,
St Nicholas-at-Wade and
Shuart into parishes, though the church at Hoath remained a
perpetual curacy belonging to Reculver parish until 1960. Records for the
poll tax of 1377 show that there were then 364 individuals of 14 years and above, not including "honest beggars", in the reduced parish of Reculver, who paid a total of £6.1s.4d. (£6.07) towards the tax.
Decline and loss to the sea The thriving medieval township depended partly on its position on a maritime trade route through the Wantsum Channel, already present in Anglo-Saxon times and exemplified by Reculver's membership of the
Cinque Port of
Sandwich later in the Middle Ages. The importance of the Wantsum Channel was such that, when the
River Thames froze in 1269, trade between Sandwich and London had to be carried out overland. Historical records for the channel are sparse after 1269, perhaps "because the route was so well known as to be taken for granted [in the Middle Ages], the whole waterway from London to Sandwich being occasionally spoken of as the 'Thames'". However, silting and
inning closed the channel to trading vessels sailing along it by about 1460 or soon after, and the first bridge was built over it at
Sarre in 1485, since ferries could no longer operate reliably across it. Reculver was also diminished by
coastal erosion. By 1540, when
John Leland recorded a visit there, the coastline to the north had receded to within little more than a quarter of a mile (400 m) of the "Towne [which] at this tyme [was] but Village lyke". Over thirty years later, in 1576,
William Lambarde described Reculver as "poore and simple". In 1588 there were 165 communicants – people taking part in services of
holy communion at the church – and in 1640 there were 169, but a map of about 1630 shows that the church then stood only about from the shore. In January 1658 the local
justices of the peace were petitioned concerning "encroachments of the sea ... [which had] since Michaelmas last [29 September 1657] encroached on the land near six rods ], and will doubtless do more harm". The village's failure to support two "beer shops" in the 1660s points clearly to a declining population, and the village was mostly abandoned around the end of the 18th century, its residents moving to
Hillborough, about south-west of Reculver but within the same parish. Concern about erosion of the cliff on which the church stood, and the possible inundation of the village, had led the commissioners of sewers to install costly sea defences consisting of planking and piling before 1783, when it was reported that the commissioners had adopted a scheme proposed by
Sir Thomas Page to protect the church: the sea defences had proven counter-productive, since sea water collected behind them and continued to undermine the cliff. Before this, according to John Duncombe, "the commissioners of sewers, and the occupiers who pay scots, [had] no view nor interest but to secure the level [ground], which must be overflowed when the hill is washed away." By 1787 Reculver had "dwindled into an insignificant village, thinly decked with the cottages of fishermen and smugglers." In September 1804 a high tide and strong winds led to the destruction of five houses, one of which was "an ancient building, immediately opposite the public house, and had the appearance of having been part of some monastic erection". The following year, according to a set of notes written by the
parish clerk John Brett, "Reculver Church and willage stood in safety", but in 1806 the sea began to encroach on the village, and in 1807 the local farmers dismantled the sea defences, after which "the village became a total [wreck] to the mercy of the sea." A further scheme to protect the cliff and church was proposed by
John Rennie, but a decision was taken on 12 January 1808 to demolish the church. By March 1809, erosion of the cliff had brought it to within of the church, and demolition was begun in September that year.
Trinity House intervened to ensure that the towers were preserved as a
navigational aid, and in 1810 it bought what was left of the structure for £100 and built the first
groynes, designed to protect the cliff on which the ruined church stands. The
vicarage was abandoned at the same time as the church, or a little later, and a replacement parish church was built at Hillborough, opening in 1813. After the sea undermined the foundations of the Hoy and Anchor Inn at Reculver in January 1808, the building was taken down and the redundant vicarage was used as a temporary replacement under the same name. Although it was reported in 1800 that there were then only five or six houses left in the village, a new Hoy and Anchor Inn was built by 1809, and this was renamed as the King Ethelbert Inn by 1838. Further construction work is indicated by a stone over the doorway to the inn bearing a date of 1843, and it was later extended into the form in which it stands today, "probably ... in 1883". Today the site of the church, including the upper part of the sea defences there, is managed by
English Heritage, and the village has all but disappeared. The present appearance of the cliff below the church, a grassy slope above a large stone apron, was the work of central government and was in place by April 1867. In 2000 the surviving fragments of an early medieval cross that once stood inside the old church were used to design a Millennium Cross to commemorate two thousand years of Christianity. This stands at the entrance to the car park and was commissioned by
Canterbury City Council.
Bouncing bombs and others watching a
Dambusters bouncing bomb prototype strike the shoreline at Reculver, 1943 During the
Second World War, the coastline east of the village was used to test prototypes of
Barnes Wallis's bouncing bomb. This area was chosen for its seclusion, while the clear landmark of the church towers and the ease of recovering prototypes from the shallow water were probably also factors. Different,
inert versions of the bomb were tested at Reculver, leading to the development of the operational version known as "
Upkeep". This bomb was used by the
RAF's
617 Squadron in
Operation Chastise, otherwise known as the Dambuster raids, in which dams in the
Ruhr district of Germany were attacked on the night of 16–17 May 1943 by formations of
Lancaster bombers. On 17 May 2003 a Lancaster bomber overflew the Reculver testing site to commemorate the 60th anniversary of the exploit. Two prototype bouncing bombs, about long and wide, lay in marshland behind the sea wall until about 1977, when they were removed by the
Army. Other prototypes were recovered from the shoreline in 1997, one of which is in
Herne Bay Museum and Gallery, a little over west of Reculver. Others are on display in
Dover Castle and in the Spitfire & Hurricane Memorial Museum at the former
RAF Manston, on the Isle of Thanet. Part of an inert Upkeep bomb, consisting mostly of a circular end with some of its filling still adhering, was uncovered during beach maintenance work undertaken at Reculver by the Environment Agency on 29 March 2017. ==Governance==