Native Americans pot found along
Kitchen Creek c. 1890 Ricketts Glen State Park is in Pennsylvania, where humans have lived since at least 10000 BC. The first settlers in the state were
Paleo-Indian nomadic hunters known from their
stone tools. The
hunter-gatherers of the
Archaic period, which lasted locally from 7000 to 1000 BC, used a greater variety of more sophisticated stone artifacts. The
Woodland period marked the gradual transition to semi-permanent villages and
horticulture, between 1000 BC and 1500 AD. Archeological evidence found in the state from this time includes a range of pottery types and styles,
burial mounds, pipes, bows and arrows, and ornaments. To fill the void left by the demise of the Susquehannocks, the Iroquois encouraged displaced tribes from the east to settle in the Susquehanna watershed, including the
Shawnee and
Lenape (or Delaware). The
French and Indian War (1754–1763) and subsequent colonial expansion encouraged the migration of many
Native Americans westward to the
Ohio River basin. After the
American Revolutionary War, Native Americans almost entirely left Pennsylvania. About 1890 a Native American pot, decorated in the style of "the peoples of the Susquehanna region", was found under a rock ledge on Kitchen Creek by Murray Reynolds, for whom a waterfall is named.
Early European inhabitants , with deadfalls estimated at over 900 years old The northwest part of the park is in
Sullivan County, which was formed in 1847 from
Lycoming County;
Davidson Township was settled by 1808 and incorporated in 1833, while
Colley Township, which has the park office and part of Lake Jean, was settled in the early 19th century and incorporated in 1849. A hunter named Robinson was the first inhabitant in the area whose name is known; around 1800 he had a cabin on the shores of Long Pond (now called Lake Ganoga), which is less than northwest of the park. The first development within the park was the construction of the Susquehanna and Tioga
Turnpike, which was built from 1822 to 1827 between the Pennsylvania communities of
Berwick in the south and
Towanda in the north. The turnpike, which
Pennsylvania Route 487 mostly follows through the park, had daily
stagecoach service from 1827 to 1851; the northbound stagecoach left Berwick in the morning and stopped for lunch at the Long Pond Tavern on the lake about noon. The earliest settlers in what became the park were two
squatters who built
sawmills to make
bed frames from cherry trees they cut for lumber. One squatter, Jesse Dodson, cut trees from around 1830 to 1860 and built a mill and the dam for what became
Lake Rose in 1842. Dodson also built a dam south of Mud Pond, near what became Lake Jean; both dams were on the Ganoga Glen branch of Kitchen Creek, and each was used to make a "log splash pond". In 1865, a well was drilled at the Dodson mill site, after a Mr. Hadley fraudulently added oil to
springs in what became the park. Hadley, who had hoped that investors would think
petroleum was present, got the
Wheeler & Wilson sewing machine company to invest $40,000 () in his scheme. In the next two years they drilled two wells, one deep at the former Dodson sawmill at Lake Rose and the other deep near the Ricketts mansion. No oil was ever found, and Hadley eventually fled to Canada. Elijah's son
Robert Bruce Ricketts, for whom the park is named, joined the
Union Army as a private at the outbreak of the
American Civil War and rose through the ranks to become a colonel in the artillery. After the war, R. Bruce Ricketts returned to Pennsylvania and in 1869 began purchasing the land around the lake from his father. By 1873 he controlled or owned , and eventually this grew to more than , including the glens and waterfalls and most of the park. The waterfalls and Ganoga Lake were the hotel's biggest attractions. By 1875 Ricketts had named the tallest waterfall Ganoga Falls; he eventually named 22 of the waterfalls. Ricketts gave most of them Native American names, and named others for relatives and friends. Ricketts renamed Long Pond as Ganoga Lake in 1881. The name
Ganoga was suggested by Pennsylvania senator
Charles R. Buckalew; it is an
Iroquoian word which Buckalew said meant "water on the mountain" in the
Seneca language. Whatever the meaning, Ricketts also named the glen with the tallest waterfall in the park "Ganoga". In 1879 Ricketts started the North Mountain Fishing Club, for anglers on the lake and creek. Guests of the hotel paid one dollar to fish as a club member. In 1889 Ricketts hired Matt Hirlinger and five other men to build the trails along the branches of Kitchen Creek and its waterfalls. It took them four years to complete the trails and stone steps through the glens.
Lumber era and sawmill in 1903; the village extended into what is now the park. For over 20 years, Ricketts was "land poor"; he owed much on the mortgages on his vast land holdings, and there were no good means to transport the estimated of lumber from most of his land to sawmills. Large-scale lumber operations of that time floated logs on major streams or used logging railroads, but neither was available to Ricketts. His small sawmill near the stone house closed by 1875, and he was only able to sell two major tracts of land in his lifetime. In 1872 he sold north of the park to a group of investors that included himself; this deal seems to have been for shares of stock (not cash), and the deed for the sale was not recorded until 1893. Ricketts sold along
Bowman Creek, including the easternmost parts of the park, to Albert Lewis in 1876; Lewis hoped to build a branch line of the
Lehigh Valley Railroad along the creek. In the 1870s and 1880s, Ricketts tried repeatedly and unsuccessfully to find partners and investors who would help him cut the lumber on his land and build a rail line to it. Finally in 1890,
Harry Clay Trexler, J.H. Turrell, Ricketts, and partners formed the Trexler and Turrell Lumber Company and leased of Ricketts' land near Ganoga Lake. The company built a sawmill and lumber town named
Ricketts on
Mehoopany Creek. The town, which was in both Sullivan and
Wyoming counties, had 800 inhabitants at its peak and extended into the northernmost section of the park. Rail lines were built to the mills at Ricketts, including the Bowman Creek branch of the Lehigh Valley Railroad which opened in 1883, and also provided passenger service to the hotel on Lake Ganoga. According to Petrillo's
Ghost Towns of North Mountain: Ricketts, Mountain Springs, Stull: "Ricketts was on the verge of financial disaster for two decades until the Lehigh Valley Railroad was constructed through his lands." Trexler and Turrell paid Ricketts $50,000 in both 1890 and 1891, and continued to cut his land and pay him for the timber until 1913. By 1911, the main sawmill at Ricketts could cut a day and was supported by three locomotives with 62 cars on of track. Within the park, the area around what became Lake Jean was cut in the 1890s, and Cherry Ridge (east of
Red Rock Job Corps Center) and land around Lake Leigh were the last areas cut by the Ricketts mill. Timber in the east part of the park and along Bowman Creek was cut by Lewis' company, which also used logging railroads and even ran track down the Allegheny Front at Phillips Creek. Lewis' firm built a
splash dam on Bowman Creek to help float logs downstream in 1891, then used the lake to
cut ice for refrigeration. A second dam and lake were added in 1909 and the
icehouses were on state park land; the ice industry supported the small village and post office of Mountain Springs. Ricketts ran his own ice cutting business on Ganoga Lake from 1895 to about 1915. Within a decade of the railroad reaching his lands, Ricketts was out of the hotel business. The North Mountain House hotel was threatened by a forest fire in 1900; the subsequent loss of much of the surrounding old-growth forest led to decreased numbers of hotel guests. Changing tastes may have also played a role in the decline in popularity; the hotel had over 150 guests in August 1878, but only about 70 guests in August 1894. The wooden addition was torn down in 1897 or 1903, and "despite profits, Ricketts became disenchanted with the hotel business and closed his hotel in 1903", though the stone house remained the Ricketts family's summer home. Passenger rail service to Ganoga Lake ended when the hotel closed; the fishing club closed that year as well, but was re-formed in 1907. Not all of Ricketts' plans were financially successful; between 1905 and 1907 he built three dams to generate
hydroelectric power within what became the park, forming Lake Leigh at the site of Sickler's mill, Lake Rose at the site of Dodson's mill, and Lake Jean (which incorporated the natural Mud Pond) north of these. Lakes Leigh and Jean were named for Ricketts' daughters, while Rose was a Ricketts family name. If the project had been successful, the plan was to rebuild the two log and timber dams in concrete, this prompted him to say "I used to be land poor, but now I'm dam poor".
Modern era plaque on the rock at right In 1913, Ricketts opened the glens and their waterfalls to the public, charging $1 () for parking. Although this fee was unpopular, it remained in place until the land became a state park. After Ricketts died in 1918, the
Pennsylvania Game Commission bought from his heirs, via the Central Pennsylvania Lumber Company, between 1920 and 1924. This became most of
Pennsylvania State Game Lands Number 13, west of the park in Sullivan County. These sales left the Ricketts heirs with over surrounding Ganoga Lake, Lake Jean and the glens area of the park. An area encompassing was approved for purchase as a federal recreational site in 1935, and the
National Park Service operated a
Civilian Conservation Corps camp at "Ricketts Glynn" (
sic). The funding to create a national park site at Ricketts Glen was "sidetracked" in 1936 when the money was redirected to the
Resettlement Administration for "direct relief". Similar projects at
French Creek,
Raccoon Creek,
Laurel Hill,
Blue Knob, and
Hickory Run were also defunded (all are now Pennsylvania state parks). The financial difficulties of the Great Depression and
World War II brought an end to this plan for development. however, the park's official history says "recreational facilities first opened in 1944". A 1947 newspaper article estimated that the new park would have 50,000 visitors that year, and detailed the work the state had done since acquiring the land. The Falls Trail through the glens was rebuilt, all the stone steps were replaced, and signs were added. Out of concern for greater safety,
footbridges with handrails replaced those made from hewn logs, overhanging rock ledges were removed in places, and the trail was rerouted near some falls. In the southern end of the new park, the state built the Evergreen Trail past Adams Falls, At Grand View the state built a wooden
fire tower at the site of Ricketts' earlier observation tower, then replaced it with a steel tower. The tower is usually closed to the public, but may be visited if it is staffed by a forest fire warden. From the tower, three states and eleven
Pennsylvania counties can be seen. The
Benton Air Force Station in the north of the park at what is now the Red Rock Job Corps Center was constructed during 1950 and 1951. Part of the 648th Aircraft Control and Warning Squadron based at
Fort Indiantown Gap, the radar station was a "frontline defender of national security". In 1997 the park was named one of the first 73
Important Bird Areas in the state by the Pennsylvania chapter of the
National Audubon Society. That same year heavy rains washed out two bridges on the Falls Trail; because of the difficulty of transporting materials on the trail, an
Army National Guard helicopter dropped poles into the glens to rebuild the bridges in early 1997. In the winter of 1997
ice climbing was allowed in the Ganoga Glen section of the park for the first time. That same year training was undertaken by local fire companies to rescue people injured in the park when icy conditions make reaching and transporting them especially treacherous. In 1998 a project to "repair and improve the Falls Trail" began, with three park employees carrying materials in on foot to stabilize the trail, fix steps, cut down on erosion, and repair some bridges. Originally planned to take four years; it ended up taking six years to complete and cost nearly $1 million. In September 1999, the remnants of
Hurricane Floyd caused massive damage to the park, temporarily closing it and downing thousands of trees. The DCNR hired
Carson Helicopters to salvage timber from the downed beech, cherry, maple, and oak trees for $994,000 (); a crew of 36 workers spent several months cutting the fallen trees into manageable logs, then helicopters flew the logs to the Hayfield area of the park. The salvage operation ran until the fall of 2001, and yielded of lumber. The operation had revenue of almost $7 million (), and had the ecological advantage of not requiring heavy logging equipment or new roads in the park. Some of the money from the helicopter logging operation was used for park improvements, including a new $1.7 million visitor center and park office, which opened in December 2001. In 2002 the park had "up to a half-million visitors each year". Beginning in 2003 the campsites in the park, by then over 50 years old, were refurbished. and in July the park was featured as a day trip in the Travel section of
The New York Times. Lake Jean was drained starting April 27, 2015 to allow replacement of the 65-year old dam control tower. The repairs were finished October 20, 2015, and the lake was full again by January 3, 2016. The DCNR has named Ricketts Glen one of "25 Must-See Pennsylvania State Parks", citing its old-growth forest and many waterfalls and its status as a National Natural Landmark. ==Geology and climate==