Priests and harrying are reflected in the abbey pond. Whitby was known in the Anglo-Saxon period as
Streoneshalh, meaning "Streon's nook of land". The modern name, which first appears in the
Domesday Book, means "Hvíta's farmstead", from Old Norse
Hvítabýr. A
monastery was founded at Streoneshalh in 657 AD by King
Oswiu or Oswy of
Northumbria, as an act of thanksgiving, after defeating
Penda, the
pagan king of
Mercia. At its foundation, the abbey was an Anglo-Saxon "double monastery" for men and women. Its first abbess, the royal princess
Hild, was later venerated as a saint. The abbey became a centre of learning, and here
Cædmon the cowherd was "miraculously" transformed into an inspired poet whose poetry is an example of
Anglo-Saxon literature. The abbey became the leading royal nunnery of the kingdom of
Deira, and the burial-place of its royal family. The
Synod of Whitby, in 664, established the
Roman date of Easter in Northumbria at the expense of the
Celtic one. The monastery was destroyed between 867 and 870 in a series of raids by
Vikings from
Denmark under their leaders
Ingwar and
Ubba. Its site remained desolate for more than 200 years until after the
Norman Conquest of England in 1066. After the Conquest, the area was granted to
William de Percy who, in 1078 donated land to found a
Benedictine monastery dedicated to
St Peter and St Hilda. William de Percy's gift included land for the monastery, the town and port of Whitby and
St Mary's Church and dependent chapels at
Fyling,
Hawsker,
Sneaton,
Ugglebarnby,
Dunsley, and
Aislaby, five mills including
Ruswarp,
Hackness with two mills and two churches. When the
Domesday Book was compiled in 1086, Whitby was recorded being partially waste and a small settlement lying within the
Langbaurgh Wapentake of Yorkshire. Further details reveal the state of Whitby's economic and agricultural decline (when compared with its pre-Conquest state under
Earl Siward) which were due to the depredations of
William the Conqueror's army during the
Harrying of the North in 1069–70. In about 1128 Henry I granted the abbey
burgage in Whitby and permission to hold a fair at the feast of St Hilda on 25 August. A second fair was held close to St Hilda's winter feast at
Martinmas. Market rights were granted to the abbey and descended with the
liberty. The
burgesses, who had little independence under the abbey, tried to obtain self-government after the
dissolution of the monasteries. The king ordered
Letters Patent to be drawn up granting their requests, but it was not implemented. In 1550 the
Liberty of
Whitby Strand, except for Hackness, was granted to the
Earl of Warwick who in 1551 conveyed it to
Sir John York and his wife Anne who sold the lease to the Cholmleys. In the reign of
Elizabeth I, Whitby was a small fishing port. In 1635 the owners of the liberty governed the port and town where 24 burgesses had the privilege of buying and selling goods brought in by sea. Burgage tenure continued until the (
7 Will. 4 & 1 Vict. c. x) entrusted government of the town to a board of improvement commissioners, elected by the ratepayers. where he observed that the rock being processed was similar to that under his
Guisborough estate. At that time alum was important for medicinal uses, in curing leather and for fixing dyed cloths and the Papal States and Spain maintained monopolies on its production and sale. Chaloner secretly brought workmen to develop the industry in Yorkshire, and alum was produced near
Sandsend Ness from Whitby in the reign of
James I. Once the industry was established, imports were banned and although the methods in its production were laborious, England became self-sufficient. Whitby grew significantly as a port as a result of the alum trade and by importing coal from the
Durham coalfield to process it. Whitby grew in size and wealth, extending its activities to include
shipbuilding using local
oak timber. In 1790–91 Whitby built 11,754 tons of shipping, making it the third largest shipbuilder in England, after London and Newcastle. Taxes on imports entering the port raised money to improve and extend the town's twin piers, improving the harbour and permitting further increases in trade. In 1753 the first
whaling ship set sail to
Greenland and by 1795 Whitby had become a major whaling port. The most successful year was 1814 when eight ships caught 172 whales, and the
whaler, the
Resolution's catch produced 230 tons of oil. The carcases yielded 42 tons of
whalebone used for '
stays' which were used in the corsetry trade until changes in fashion made them redundant.
Blubber was boiled to produce oil for use in lamps in four oil houses on the harbourside. Oil was used for street lighting until the spread of gas lighting reduced demand and the Whitby Whale Oil and Gas Company changed into the Whitby Coal and Gas Company. As the market for whale products fell, catches became too small to be economic and by 1831 only one whaling ship, the
Phoenix, remained. Whitby benefited from trade between the Newcastle coalfield and London, both by shipbuilding and supplying transport. In his youth the explorer
James Cook learned his trade on
colliers, shipping coal from the port.
HMS Endeavour, the ship commanded by Cook on his voyage to Australia and New Zealand, was built in Whitby in 1764 by
Thomas Fishburn as a coal carrier named
Earl of Pembroke. She was bought by the Royal Navy 1768, refitted and renamed. Whitby developed as a
spa town in
Georgian times when three
chalybeate springs were in demand for their medicinal and tonic qualities. Visitors were attracted to the town leading to the building of "lodging-houses" and hotels, particularly on the West Cliff. In 1854, the line from York and Pickering became part of the
North Eastern Railway. In 1865, this company completed its
Esk Valley Line, using the earlier line as far as
Grosmont, where it diverged to follow the Esk Valley as far as
Battersby, where separate lines linked to
Northallerton and
Middlesbrough. In 1883, the
Whitby, Redcar and Middlesbrough Union Railway opened from
Loftus to Whitby, providing a second link from
Middlesbrough to Whitby, via
Redcar. It ran close to the cliffs to the north of the town and served a station at
Whitby West Cliff before descending on a steep gradient to join the Esk Valley Line just west of its terminus. Two years later, in 1885, the
Scarborough and Whitby Railway opened, following a coastal route from
Scarborough and requiring construction of the red brick
Larpool Viaduct across the Esk Valley at a high level. It joined the Whitby, Redcar and Middlesbrough Union Railway just to the south of the latter's Whitby West Cliff station, and any trains between Scarborough and Whitby had to reverse at West Cliff. Both lines were operated by the North Eastern Railway from their opening, and eventually acquired by it. The black
mineraloid jet, the compressed remains of ancestors of the
monkey-puzzle tree, is found in the cliffs and on the moors and has been used since the
Bronze Age to make beads. The Romans are known to have mined it in the area. In Victorian times jet was brought to Whitby by pack pony to be made into decorative items. It was at the peak of its popularity in the mid-19th century when it was favoured for mourning jewellery by
Queen Victoria after the death of
Prince Albert. The advent of iron ships in the late 19th century and the development of port facilities on the
River Tees led to the decline of smaller Yorkshire harbours. The
Monks-haven launched in 1871 was the last wooden ship built in Whitby, and a year later the harbour was silted up.
20th century On 30 October 1914, the hospital ship
Rohilla was sunk, hitting the rocks within sight of shore just off Whitby at
Saltwick Bay. Of the 220 people on board, 74 died in the disaster, with 33 of those being buried in
Whitby Cemetery. In a
raid on Scarborough, Hartlepool and Whitby in December 1914, the town was shelled by the German
battlecruisers
Von der Tann and
Derfflinger. In the final assault on the Yorkshire coast, the ships aimed their guns at the signal post on the end of the headland. Whitby Abbey sustained considerable damage in the attack, which lasted ten minutes. The German squadron responsible for the strike escaped despite attempts made by the Royal Navy. The former Whitby, Redcar and Middlesbrough Union Railway closed between Loftus and Whitby West Cliff station in 1958. The section between West Cliff and Whitby stations remained open for use by trains from Scarborough until 1965, when the line from Scarborough closed. In the same year, the line between
Malton, Pickering and Grosmont closed, severing Whitby's direct connection to York and points south, although the section between Grosmont and Pickering subsequently reopened as the preserved
North Yorkshire Moors Railway. The trackbed of the Whitby to Scarborough Line, including the Larpool Viaduct, is now used as a footpath, bridleway and by cyclists. During the early 20th century the fishing fleet kept the harbour busy, and few cargo boats used the port. It was revitalised as a result of a strike at
Hull docks in 1955, when six ships were diverted and unloaded their cargoes on the fish quay. Endeavour Wharf, near the railway station, was opened in 1964 by the local council. The number of vessels using the port in 1972 was 291, increased from 64 in 1964. Timber, paper and chemicals are imported, while exports include steel, furnace-bricks and doors. The port is owned and managed by Scarborough Borough Council since the Harbour Commissioners relinquished responsibility in 1905. A
marina was started in 1979 by dredging the upper harbour and laying pontoons. Light industry and car parks occupy the adjacent land. More pontoons were completed in 1991 and 1995. The Whitby Marina Facilities Centre was opened in June 2010. ==Governance==