America In 1884 he acquired a black-enameled Columbia 50-inch 'Standard'
penny-farthing with nickel-plated wheels, built by the
Pope Manufacturing Company of Chicago. He packed his handlebar bag with socks, a spare shirt, a raincoat that doubled as tent and bedroll, and a pocket revolver (described as a "bull-dog revolver", probably a
British Bull Dog revolver) and left San Francisco at 8 o'clock on 22 April 1884. From
Sacramento, Stevens travelled through the
Sierra Nevada Mountains to Nevada, Utah, and Wyoming. En route, he was greeted by members of local bicycle clubs, most prominently the president of a chapter of the
League of American Wheelmen in
Laramie, Wyoming. He had never seen North America east of the
Mississippi before.
Europe Stevens passed the winter in
New York and contributed sketches of his transcontinental trip to
Outing, a
cycling magazine. It made him a special correspondent and sent him on the steamer
City of Chicago to
Liverpool. He landed there 10 days later, on 9 April 1885. It began raining within minutes. He rode, wearing a white military helmet through England, passing through Berkhamsted, where he had been born. He recorded that roads in England were better than in America. He took the ferry from
Newhaven to
Dieppe to cross to France and continued through Germany;
Austria;
Hungary, where he picked up a temporary cycling companion with whom he shared no language;
Slavonia;
Serbia;
Bulgaria;
Rumelia; and Turkey. In
Constantinople he rested among people who had heard of America, refitted with spare spokes, tires and other parts and a better pistol (a .38-calibre
Smith & Wesson), waited for reports of banditry to subside, and then pedalled off through
Anatolia,
Armenia,
Kurdistan,
Iraq and
Iran, where he waited out the winter in
Teheran as a guest of the Shah,
Naser al-Din.
Afghanistan Having been refused permission to travel through
Siberia, he set off on 10 March 1886 through
Afghanistan although its borders were closed to foreigners and its guards had a fierce reputation. Upon entering the country, Stevens was arrested. As guards took him to his place of detainment, he entertained them with a demonstration of his bicycle, pedalling far ahead of them until an officer caught up on horse and had him wait for the on-foot soldiers to catch up. He was kept in a villa where he was fed well and given new boots, soap and
biscuits imported from England. A fine horse was kept in the garden aside his quarters that he might enjoy looking at. Finally ejected from Afghanistan, Stevens was accompanied back to Persia. Again, he was allowed to speed ahead of his captors so long as he stopped and waited for them occasionally. Eventually, however, the soldiers grew nervous and disassembled his bicycle, strapping the pieces to a packhorse, which later laid upon the larger wheel, breaking many spokes, the most severe damage the penny-farthing experienced upon the trip. Afghan
gunsmiths drilled new holes and stretched new spokes. Some spokes remained subpar, though sufficient to complete the thousands of miles yet ahead.
Asia He took a Russian steamer across the
Caspian to
Baku, a rail to
Batoum, and a steamer to Constantinople and
India. In the Red Sea his knowledge of mules was useful to the British Army. He cycled across India, noting that the weather was always hot and the
Grand Trunk Road was excellent wheeling and free from bandits. Much of his description of life in India, however, suffers from being based on the opinions of experts rather than his own observations. Another steamer brought him from
Calcutta to
Hong Kong and southern China. He pedalled to eastern China, encountering great difficulty in asking directions in a language he couldn't pronounce. A Chinese official gave him refuge from rioters who were angry over a
war with the French. From the coast he took a steamer to
Japan, where he delighted in the calm of that country. The bicycle part of his journey around the world ends 17 December 1886, at
Yokohama. His itinerary accounts "DISTANCE ACTUALLY WHEELED, ABOUT 13,500 MILES". Stevens returned by steamer to San Francisco, in January 1887. Stevens' travels through Japan were reported in the
Jijishinpou newspaper. Along the way, Stevens sent a series of letters to ''
Harper's Magazine detailing his experiences and later collected those experiences into a two-volume book of 1,000 pages, Around the World on a Bicycle'', which is available in a single-volume paperback and publicly available at
digital library projects. The price of an original has been estimated at between US$300 and US$400. The Pope Company preserved Stevens's bicycle until
World War II, when it was donated to a scrap drive to support the war effort. == The search for Stanley ==