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Tiwi Islands

The Tiwi Islands are part of the Northern Territory, Australia, 80 km (50 mi) to the north of Darwin adjoining the Timor Sea. They comprise Melville Island, Bathurst Island, and nine smaller uninhabited islands, with a combined area of 8,320 square kilometres (3,212 sq mi).

Geography and population
The Tiwi Islands were created by sea level rise at the end of the last ice age, which finished about 11,700 years ago, with the flooding occurring an estimated 8,200 to 9,650 years ago. The story of the flooding is told in Tiwi traditional stories and creation myths passed down orally from generation to generation ever since. The islands are located in the Northern Territory about to the north of the Australian mainland and are bounded by the Timor Sea in the north and the west, in the south by the Beagle Gulf, the Clarence Strait and Van Diemen Gulf and in the east by the Dundas Strait. Bathurst Island is the fifth-largest island of Australia and accessible by sea and air. Melville Island is Australia's second largest island (after Tasmania). The main islands are separated by Apsley Strait, which connects Saint Asaph Bay in the north and Shoal Bay in the south, and is between and wide, long. At the mouth of Shoal Bay is Buchanan Island, with an area of about . A car ferry at the narrowest point provides a quick connection between Melville and Bathurst Islands. They have been inhabited by the Tiwi people for thousands of years, since long before European settlement in Australia. The Tiwi are an Aboriginal Australian people, culturally and linguistically distinct from those of Arnhem Land on the mainland just across the water. In 2021, the total population of the islands was 2,348, of whom 87% were Aboriginal people. Most of the population live in Wurrumiyanga (known as Nguiu until 2010) on Bathurst Island, and Pirlangimpi (also known as Garden Point) and Milikapiti (also known as Snake Bay) on Melville Island. Wurrumiyanga has a population of nearly 1500, the other two centres around 450 each. There are other smaller settlements, including Wurankuwu (Ranku) Community on western Bathurst Island. According to an economic report commissioned by the Northern Territory Government, fewer than one in ten Tiwi Islanders live away from these major settlements in rural locales across the two main islands. ==History==
History
Indigenous The Aboriginal Tiwi people have occupied the area that became the Tiwi Islands for at least 40,000 years, with creation stories relating their presence on the islands at least 7,000 years before present. and the first historical record of contact between Indigenous islanders and European explorers was with the Dutch "under the command of Commander Maarten van Delft who took three ships, the Nieuw Holland, the Waijer, and the Vosschenbosch, into Shark Bay on Melville Island and landed on 30 April 1705". Claims that the pre-colonial Tiwi Islands were raided by slave traders from Portuguese Timor have been made since the early 19th century, sometimes in support of the unorthodox theory of the Portuguese discovery of Australia. Early British sources cited Portuguese slave raids as a source of the supposed hostility of Tiwi Islanders to intruders, and recounted anecdotal evidence of Tiwi Islanders who spoke words of Portuguese. However, no direct evidence exists of these practices in Portuguese sources or in Tiwi oral tradition. There were other visits by European explorers and navigators in the seventeenth, eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, including by Dutchman Pieter Pieterszoon, Frenchman Nicholas Baudin and Briton Philip Parker King. making contact with the Tiwi at St Asaph Bay, Melville Island, in 1818 King's was the first British expedition to interact with the Tiwi Islanders. Although the meeting of the two peoples was tense, iron tools were traded by the British for fish, water and sago. King named Melville Island, Bathurst Island and Apsley Strait on this journey. British colonial outpost In February 1824 Captain Gordon Bremer was appointed by the Admiralty, upon instruction from the British Colonial Office, to take possession of Bathurst and Melville Islands, along with the Cobourg Peninsula (now part of Arnhem Land) on the mainland to the east, subject to the land being unoccupied by any people except "...the Natives of those or any of the other Eastern Islands". In September 1824, Bremer established a British military outpost, which was also the first British settlement in northern Australia, at Fort Dundas on Melville Island, near present-day Pirlangimpi. Fifty Royal marines were garrisoned at the fort and within a month hostilities resulted in an Islander being shot dead. Over the next four years the Tiwi speared the livestock, tore down British huts and killed three white men. Several marines also died of malaria and Fort Dundas was subsequently abandoned in 1828. in 1824 Despite the failure of the settlement, Bremer had claimed the northern area of the continent and adjacent islands as part of New South Wales (then under Governor Thomas Brisbane The Tiwi Islanders, however, were still regarded by the British as a fierce people and an 1888 police report stated an armed force of around twenty men would be required "to exterminate the inhabitants and gain possession of Melville Island". Within a few months, Cooper had been speared by the Tiwi but not mortally wounded. The harvesting of thousands of buffalo continued until 1896 when buffalo numbers reduced and the shooters also faced increased Tiwi resistance, resulting in Cooper and the others leaving the island. Cooper established his head-station at Paru and his riflemen (referred to as Tarula or "lightning" by the Tiwi) subjugated the Tiwi by rape, murder and abduction. Cooper was able to maintain his brutal control until a government inquiry in 1914 forced him and his Iwaidja militia off the island. After earlier making his vows as a Missionary of the Sacred Heart, Bishop Francis Xavier Gsell had already become familiar with the wider region, having spent time in New South Wales in the 1890s, followed by time in New Guinea. Before his relocation to the Tiwi Islands he had also been the Northern Territory's Apostolic Administrator. The mission was established by Gsell on Bathurst Island at Nguiu (Wurrumiyanga) in 1911. Following growing concern around the erosion of the Tiwi people's language and culture, a concerted revitalisation effort commenced in 1975, led by both clergy and lay Catholics. The Tiwi artwork in the Catholic church, and the translation of Biblical stories into Tiwi, are both notable examples of this effort. Sister Tess Ward in particular, alongside local Tiwi women, worked to encourage the continued transmission of the Tiwi people's oral history and spent years recording Tiwi culture and language in written form. As part of the Australian government's set of policies directed at Aboriginal Australian people, Nova Peris' mother, Joan, was raised in this mission after being taken from her mother; she was one of the Stolen Generations. The mission has since taken on a more mediagenic role, serving as a key location in the 2019 Australian romantic comedy movie Top End Wedding starring Aboriginal Australian actress Miranda Tapsell. Pearling industry High quality pearling grounds were found offshore from the Tiwi Islands in the 1920s and 1930s, which attracted pearlers from mainland Australia and also from Japan. The Japanese pearling fleets used Bathurst Island as an anchorage for their vessels right up until at least the 1950s. Advances in infrastructure The Tiwi Islands' remoteness impeded much of the development on the islands during the early 20th century. Significant improvements in infrastructure did not begin until 1930 when Patrick Ritchie (the first lay missionary on Bathurst Island) arrived in Nguiu. Ritchie oversaw construction of the first road network on the islands, as well as reservoirs and stockyards. Ritchie's work was continued by Queenslander Peter de Hayr, another lay missionary who spent 24 years in the Tiwi Islands (until his death in 1958). De Hayr was credited by Bishop Francis Xavier Gsell as being instrumental in the construction of many of the Tiwi Islands' most well-known landmarks including its timber church, presbytery, convent, and school. De Hayr also built the second iteration of the St. Francis, part of the Nguiu mission's own flotilla alongside the Pius. The mission's vessels, which replaced the boat hired from Darwin firm Jolly and Co. for one pound a week, helped with Tiwi Islanders' transport needs until a large-scale commercial ferry operator could be found to service the Darwin-Tiwis route. World War II aircraft of Hajime Toyoshima on Melville Island During World War II, the Tiwi Islands found themselves in the centre of an increasingly aggressive confrontation between Imperial Japan and Australia which reached a crescendo on February 19, 1942. On that day, having noticed a sortie overhead, Father John McGrath sent an urgent message from the radio hut located next to Nguiu's Catholic church. The message explained that aircraft had been spotted over the islands, heading south across the Beagle Gulf towards Darwin. Officials ignored McGrath's warning and the Japanese airforce successfully managed to bomb Darwin. As the Japanese squadrons returned from the raid, a Tiwi Islander named Matthias Ulungura disarmed and captured Japanese pilot Hajime Toyoshima, who had crash landed his damaged aircraft on Melville Island, the first Japanese military personnel to be taken captive on Australian soil. Later in the war, another Tiwi man named Louie captured a further five downed Japanese pilots. He requested a single bullet from the islands' limited stockpile of ammunition to kill the pilots but Father John McGrath refused the request, instead feeding the POWs as per the rules of war prior to the five Japanese being sent to the Australian mainland. The Tiwi Islands local government area was established in 2001, when the previous community government councils in the three main communities of Wurrumiyanga (Bathurst Island), Pirlangimpi and Milikapiti (Melville Island) were amalgamated with the Wurankuwu Aboriginal Corporation to form a single local government. The Tiwi Islands Local Government was replaced in 2008 by the Tiwi Islands Shire Council as part of a Northern Territory-wide restructuring of local government. ==Politics and administration==
Politics and administration
Early efforts at administration Work on establishing the first Tiwi Council began with the assistance of Father John Cosgrove in the 1950s. This coincided with a deliberate effort on his part to improve the administration of the Tiwi Islands which had hitherto been largely neglected by the federal government. Father John Cosgrove's primary reforms included improving the housing stock of the Tiwi people, as well as rectifying errors in the Government's records for the Tiwi Islands' population which inaccurately detailed many locals' names and family relationships. Electorates The Tiwi Islands are part of the federal electorate of Lingiari, for which the current member is Marion Scrymgour. The islands are within the Northern Territory electorate of Arafura. The current member for Arafura is Manuel Brown, from the Labor Party. Local government The administration of the islands is divided between the local Tiwi Islands Regional Council, and the Indigenous landholder representative organisation, the Tiwi Land Council. Representatives on the Shire Council are elected from four wards, and include 12 councillors. • Milikapiti Ward (northeast Melville Island, largest) • Nguiu Ward (south Bathurst Island, Buchanan Island) • Pirlangimpi Ward (west and southwest Melville Island) • Wurankuwu Ward (north Bathurst Island) In 2011–12, the operating budget of the then Tiwi Islands Shire Council was A$26.4 million. ==Culture==
Culture
Indigenous art The creation of Indigenous Australian art is an important part of Tiwi Island culture and its economy. There are three Indigenous art centres on the islands: Tiwi Design, Munupi Arts & Crafts, and Jilamara Arts and Craft, and these collaborate through a cooperative venture, Tiwi Art. Apart from Tiwi Art network there are two independent operations: Ngaruwanajirri, also known as 'The Keeping Place', and fabric design, printing and clothing business Bima Wear, operated by Indigenous women since 1969. The apparel business was set up by Sister Eucharia Pearce, assisted by a family member, Bertha, to provide meaningful employment for the women of the Tiwi Islands. (Management of Bima Wear was done in addition to Pearce's other duties such as providing medical care, growing crops, and baking.) In 1981, Sister Eucharia Pearce received an MBE for her involvement with Bima Wear as well as her other charitable work; Pearce accepted the honour on behalf of the Tiwi people. Tiwi artists who have held international exhibitions or whose works are held in major Australian collections include Kitty Kantilla, Donna Burak, Jean Baptiste Apuatimi, and Fiona Puruntatameri. A lot of wood carvings of birds are made by Tiwi people. Some of these are displayed in the Mission Heritage Gallery on Bathurst Island. The carvings represent various birds from Tiwi mythology, which have various meanings. Certain birds tell the Tiwi people about approaching monsoonal rains whilst others warn of impending cyclones. Others, depending on the totem of the people, alert the Tiwi people that someone has died in a particular clan. There are others that represent ancestral beings who were, according to mythology, changed into birds. Carved birds are sometimes at the top of pukumani poles, which are placed at burial sites. The carving of human sculptures on the Tiwi islands was introduced by Cardo Kerinauia into Paru village in the 1960s after he had seen sculptures in Darwin. Paru villagers soon started a cottage industry of wood carving and had several pioneering Tiwi artists including Declan Apuatimi, Enraeld Munkara and Mick Aruni. The Tiwi people also create many of their designs on fabric. The main method uses wax to resist dyeing similarly to Indonesian batik prints. Various fabrics are used ranging from sturdy, woven cotton to delicate silks, from which they create silk scarves. The creation of their artwork is usually a social activity and consists of groups of people sitting together and talking whilst they work in a relaxed fashion. Often these groupings are segregated by gender. Pukamani The pukamani, or pukumani, is a burial ceremony based on a Dreamtime story, which is performed around carved and painted grave posts, known as tutini (sometimes referred to as pukumani poles). The ceremony takes place two to six months after the burial, and may last for a few days. Specially commissioned carvers carve and paint up to 12 tutini, which are erected around the grave mound. There is some discussion about whether the poles are sacred ritualistic objects, or a commodified work of fine art) but specially commissioned poles are freely borrowed or sold for displays in art galleries around Australia and the world. Music B2M The band B2M ("Bathurst to Melville"), fronted by Jeffrey "Yello" Simon, was formed in the Tiwi Islands in December 2004 As of 2015 other band members included Greg Orsto, James "Fab" Kantilla, Daniel Cunningham, Darren Narul and dancer Shelton Murray, all of whom sing. They have a large Indigenous following in Australia, where they often sing songs with positive messages about alcohol and drugs. They have toured East Timor, Bali and Shanghai. They sang more traditional songs in Taiwan, and were inspired by their experience there to instigate "Project Songlines", in which they mix very old traditional Tiwi chants with chants from other indigenous cultures. Also in 2018, they did a nationwide tour named Mamanta, performing at the Riverside Theatres in Parramatta in September. They had been working with Australian-Irish musician Steve Cooney, including experimenting with mixing up traditional Irish Gaelic music with Tiwi sounds. Their main motivation for touring is to share their culture. Sadly, singer Greg Orsto died on 5 January 2021 of a heart attack, aged 59. ==Sport==
Sport
Australian rules football Australian rules football is the most popular sport on the Tiwi Islands, and was introduced in 1941 by missionaries John Pye and Andy Howley. There has been a Tiwi Islands Football League competition since 1969. The Tiwi Australian Football League has 900 participants out of a community of about 2600, the highest football participation rate in Australia (35%). The Tiwi Islands Football League Grand Final is held in March each year and attracts up to 3,000 spectators. Tiwi footballers are renowned for exquisite "one-touch" skills. Many of the players have a preference for playing barefoot. Many of the male players also play for the St Mary's Football Club in Darwin, which was formed specifically to allow Tiwi soldiers in the 1950s to play in the Northern Territory Football League. The Tiwi Bombers Football Club fielded a team in the Northern Territory Football League from the 2006/07 season. Notable footballers from the Tiwi Islands to have played in the national VFL / AFL competition. Particularly notable is the Rioli dynasty of AFL players related to Cyril Rioli Snr. Members of the family include Maurice Rioli, Dean Rioli, Willie Rioli, Daniel Rioli and Maurice Rioli Jr. Other notable players include Ronnie Burns, Michael Long, David Kantilla Anthony McDonald-Tipungwuti, Ben Long and Sean Lemmens. Maurice Rioli (1982) and Michael Long (1993) are both uncles of Cyril Rioli (2015), and all three have won the Norm Smith Medal for being adjudged the best player of an AFL Grand Final. The Tiwi Islands Football Club was the subject of a series on ABC's Message Stick in 2009, called "In A League of Their Own". Cricket As reported in The Weekend Australian in 2010, Australian cricketers led by Mathew Hayden raised $200,000 for cricket development in the Tiwi Islands. With former internationals Allan Border, Michael Kasprowicz and Andy Bichel, the match between Hayden XI and Border XI had a turnout of 1,000 people, nearly half the islands' population. ==Transport==
Transport
A commercial flight operator, Fly Tiwi, connects both islands to each other and to Darwin. Formed as an association between Hardy Aviation and the Tiwi Land Council, Fly Tiwi has daily flights to all three communities on the islands. SeaLink NT operates ferry services connecting Wurrumiyanga and Darwin, making the 2.5-hour trip each way three days a week. In 2008, local government maintained of roads on the islands. It is an offence to take alcohol to the Tiwi Islands and companies which maintain transport links are known to screen passengers' luggage for it. While the Tiwi Islands are not strictly dry due to the availability of alcohol at certain licensed venues there, such as holiday resorts, the public consumption and importation of alcohol is strictly monitored and any alcohol found can be confiscated. ==Environment, conservation and land use==
Environment, conservation and land use
The islands' climatic and geographical extremity means that they have distinctive vegetation and special conservation values:because of their isolation and because they have extremely high rainfall, the Tiwi Islands support many species not recorded elsewhere in the Northern Territory (or in the world), and some range-restricted species. The Tiwi Islands contain the Territory's best-developed (tallest and with greatest basal area) eucalypt forests and an unusually high density and extent of rainforests. The wet season from November to April brings the islands the highest rainfall in the Northern Territory. Tiwi is subject to a recurring meteorological phenomenon, dubbed Hector, wherein a thunderstorm forms nearly every day from November to December and February through March. The storm is very powerful, going over 20 kilometres into the atmosphere, and is visible from as far away as Darwin. It is caused by the collision of sea breezes across the islands. {{Weather box {{Weather box Flora and fauna The islands have been isolated from the Australian mainland since the last Ice Age. They are covered mainly with eucalypt forest on a gently sloping lateritic plateau. The extensive open forest, open woodlands and riparian vegetation are dominated by Darwin stringybarks, woollybutts, and cajuputs. There are small patches of rainforest occurring in association with perennial freshwater springs, and mangroves occupying the numerous inlets. The seas and estuaries around the islands are home to several species of shark and saltwater crocodiles. Invasive mammals on the islands include black rats, cats, pigs, water buffalo, horses, and cattle. Water buffalo are common on Melville Island but not Bathurst Island, while feral pigs are common on Bathurst Island but not Melville Island. The Tiwi Land Council is currently working to eradicate feral pigs from Melville Island before they can establish a large population. The Tiwi Land Council and the Tiwi Aboriginal community more broadly are both in favor of feral cat eradication, although no plans for it are currently underway. Important Bird Area The islands have been identified as an Important Bird Area (IBA) by BirdLife International because they support relatively high densities of red goshawks, partridge pigeons and bush stone-curlews, as well as up to 12,000 (over 1% of the world population) great knots. Other birds for which the Tiwi Island populations are globally significant include chestnut rails, beach stone-curlews, northern rosellas, varied lorikeets, rainbow pittas, silver-crowned friarbirds, white-gaped, yellow-tinted and bar-breasted honeyeaters, canary white-eyes and masked finches. The birds have a high level of endemism at the subspecific level; the Tiwi masked owl (Tyto novaehollandiae melvillensis) is considered endangered and the Tiwi hooded robin (Melanodryas cucullata melvillensis) is at least endangered and may be extinct. Forestry and mining Forest products are an important part of the Tiwi Islands economy, but the sector has had a chequered history. Forestry dates back to 1898, with plantations being trialled from the 1950s and 1960s. A native softwood enterprise was established in the mid-1980s, as a partnership between the private sector and the Land Council, but by the mid-1990s, the Land Council was winding the venture down, noting that its investor partner had "various tax driven ambitions which are growingly incompatible with our own employment and sustainable production goals". Despite the setback, it was still considered that forestry was likely to be crucial to the Tiwi economy, The operations of Australian Plantations Group (later named Sylvatech) were purchased by Great Southern Group in 2005. In 2006, the operations were reported to be "the largest native-forest clearing project in northern Australia". with financial penalties being imposed by the Federal environment department in 2008. Much of the cleared land is used for cattle or monoculture plantations, which the timber company has maintained are an important source of local jobs. Great Southern Plantations collapsed in early 2009, and the Tiwi Land Council has been examining options for future management of the plantations. The islands have mineral sands on both Melville Island's north coast and the western coast of Bathurst Island. In 2005, Matilda Minerals developed a proposal for mining on the islands, which was assessed and approved in 2006. In 2007 sand mining produced the first shipments of zircon and rutile for export to China. A shipment was made in June 2007, with a further shipped later that year. In March 2020, Plantation Management Partners (PMP), which manages around 30,000 hectares of acacia mangium trees on the Tiwis, made the decision to delay the year's harvest while demand for woodchips in China was depressed due to the COVID-19 pandemic. ==See also==
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