Pre-Christian Wick Iron Age activity in the parish of Wick is evident in the
hill fort at Garrywhin. Evidence of activity around Wick from the
Norse pagan period was discovered in 1837 when brooches and bracelets from the Norse were uncovered by archaeologists. The name
Wick appears to be from a
Norse word,
vík, meaning
bay, cf. also the word
viking.
Conversion to Christianity In the eighth century,
Saint Fergus, an
Irish missionary, lived in Wick or its immediate vicinity during his mission to the people in the area. He is the
patron saint of Wick. One of the
fairs in Wick, the Fergusmas, is named after this saint. The old church of Wick, which stood at the east end of the town at a place called Mount Holie, was dedicated to him. It is believed that the Chapel of St. Tear in Wick Parish near
Ackergill was founded in the eighth century by
St Drostan, whose ministry was in
Aberdeenshire.
11th Century St. Duthac (1000–1065) was a native Scot who lived in or around
Dornoch. He had a chapel in Wick.
12th and 13th centuries Wick belonged to
Norway, as did all of Caithness, until the reign of
William the Lion (1165–1214), at which time the Norwegian earls held of the king of Scotland. The
Castle of Old Wick, commonly known as "The Old Man of Wick" (or "Aul man o' Wick") is thought to have been built in about 1160 by
Harald Maddadson,
Earl of Caithness and
Orkney. Earl Harald, who was half
Norse, is thought to have resided there. It was long used by fishermen as an aid to navigation in the North Sea. The
Origines Parochiales Scotiae records these events for twelfth-century Wick: Between the years 1142 and 1149
Rognvald Earl of Orkney went into Katanes and was there entertained at Vik by a husbandman named Sveinn the son of Hroald, a very brave man. When
Sveinn Asleifson was in the
Hebrides, he committed the keeping of Dungulsbae, which he had received from Earl Rognvald, to Margad Grimson, whose oppressions caused many to take refuge with Hroald in Wik. This occasioned a dispute between Hroald and Margad, and the latter soon afterwards went to Wik with nineteen men and slew Hroald. Between the years 1153 and 1156,
Harald Maddadson, then joint Earl Katanes and
Orkney with Earl Rognvald, passed into Katanes and wintered at Wik.
14th and 15th centuries In about 1330, the parish of Wick was included among the Caithness lands owned by the family of
Cheyne. The last male heir, Sir
Reginald de Cheyne, died and was succeeded by his two daughters, who, by marriage, carried the lands into the clans
Sinclair,
Sutherland, and
Keith. Between 1390 and 1406, King
Robert III granted the town of Wick in heritage to Neill Sutherland with a
burgh of barony. In 1438, the clans
Gunn and Keith joined battle near Wick on the moor of
Tannach with both sides suffering heavy losses. However, hostilities between the two clans were not ended at that time.
16th century In 1503, the
Parliament of Scotland established a
sheriff for Caithness, who "should sit and have a place for administration of his office within the town of Wick". The oldest extant charter in Wick was that by Andrew Stewart, Bishop of Caithness, to Alexander Brysbene signed on February 14, 1503. The charter was for a tenement in Wick for the annual payment of “two shillings of the usual money of Scotland” and attendance at “three suits and our three head courts” at Wick “with all arms.” In 1538,
Ackergill Tower, north of Wick, was granted to
William Keith, 4th Earl Marischal and Lady Margaret Keith, his wife. Nine years later, George, Earl of Caithness, and others seized the tower house, taking hostage Alexander Keith, captain of the castle, and John Scarlet, his servitor, who were imprisoned in
Girnigoe,
Braal Castle, and other places. They were charged with treason but were granted remission by
Queen Mary. In 1583, when George Sinclair, 4th Earl of Caithness, died at
Edinburgh, his heart was brought to Wick where it was encased in lead and placed in Sinclair's aisle at the church of Wick. However, it entered the story of Wick once again in 1588 when Wick suffered at the hands of Alexander Gordon, 12th Earl of Sutherland, in his campaign against the 5th Sinclair Earl of Caithness, who had killed his kinsman. While Sinclair and his men concealed themselves in Girnigoe Castle nearby, Sutherland proceeded to burn the town of Wick, "an achievement of no great difficulty, as the place at that time merely consisted of a few mean straggling houses thatched with straw". All structures in the town except the church were burned. During the chaos of the fire, a
Highlander intent on plundering the church broke open the lead case which contained the heart of the late Earl of Caithness, and, disappointed that no treasure was in the casque, flung the heart into the wind. In 1589,
James VI made the town into a royal burgh in favour of the fifth Earl of Caithness.
17th century Wick did not escape the turbulence of the
Reformation period when, in 1613, the
Anglican archdeacon Richard Merchiston of
Bower, a graduate of the
University of Edinburgh, was brought into Caithness by
Bishop Patrick Forbes. Merchiston, a zealous
iconoclast, angered the
Catholic townspeople when he broke up the stone sculpture of St. Fergus, the town's patron saint. At first yielding to the city authorities who tried to prevent violence, a band of men nevertheless are said to have followed the parson as he returned home in the evening, took him by force, and drowned him in the
Wick River. When questioned about the murder, they alleged that it had been the work of the saint himself, whom they claimed they had seen astride Merchiston, holding his head below the water. It should be noted, however, that John Horne, writing in his book of anecdotes about Wick, avers that a letter written by Merchiston with a later date than 1613 "either destroys the entire story or discredits the date of his death." In 1680, the last clan battle in Scotland took place west of Wick at
Altimarlach, involving a dispute between
Campbell of Glenorcy and the Sinclairs over the earldom of Caithness. The Sinclairs headquartered in Wick, where they became the victims of a cunning stratagem by an agent of Glenorchy, who ordered that a ship loaded with whisky, "the nectar of Caithness", come to ground nearby, presuming the Sinclairs would imbibe the drink in quantity. He was not wrong. The next morning, weakened by their revels of the night before, the Sinclairs marched out to meet the Campbells and were ambushed at Altimarlach. Nearly all the Sinclairs were driven into the river and drowned. In 1695, the minutes of the Caithness
Presbytery reported that the industries of the town included "shoemaking, glovemaking, lacemaking, candlemaking, snuff making, lintspinning, and weaving, with, of course, building, and joinering." At Wick, October 12, 1698, the Presbytery noted that after sorcerers were expelled from Orkney, "sorcery and witchcraft abound[ed] so much" in the parish of Wick that they recommended their banishment from "this town and country."
18th century In the eighteenth century, the people of Wick were
Gaelic-speakers, but according to a
presbytery report of 1707, they could understand English. In 1750, the building which housed the Town Hall and Burgh Jail was erected. When
Robert Forbes, appointed
episcopal Bishop of Caithness in 1762, arrived in the county, he discovered there was no minister at Wick, but he is known to have held services and performed confirmations at the "house of Mr. Campbell" there. In the year of his arrival, Bishop Forbes reported that every year on the morning of the Feast of
Innocents Day (28 December), the people of Wick and its environs would gather for prayer at the ruins of the Chapel of St. Tear near Noss Head. In ruins at the time, the chapel had originally been made of stone and mortar without any lime, leaving little gaps in the wall into which people would press offerings of bread, cheese, and money. He left this description of the event: In the afternoon, they get music—a piper and fiddler—and dance on the green where the chapel stands. The roof is off, but the walls are almost entire. One of the late
Presbyterian preachers of Wick thought to have abolished this old practice; and for that end appointed a Diet of
catechising in that corner of the parish upon the day of the Holy Innocents, but not one attended him; all went, as usual, to St. Tear’s Chapel. I saw the font-stone for
baptism lying on the green at the east end of the chapel. Mr. Sutherland, of
Wester, observed that no doubt it has been called the Chapel of St. Tear from the tears of the parents and other relations of the murdered innocents. The Rev. Charles Thomson, a nineteenth-century minister of the
Free Church of Wick, stated in the
New Statistical Account of Scotland that, though the bread and cheese were intended for the souls of the slain children, a dog-keeper in the neighbourhood would take the food out and feed it to the hounds. In 1795,
Sir John Sinclair raised a second
battalion for the
Rothesay and Caitness Fencibles (defencibles), which was to be sent to Ireland. In 1929, a Caithness man, age 86, remembered his grandfather's service in Ireland and remarked on the status of the language of Caithness, saying: "My grandfather was a
Reay (a parish on the Sutherland Caithness border) man and spoke Gaelic, but my grandmother was born in Wick and like all 'Wickers' was unable to speak
Gaelic."
19th century In the late eighteenth century, the British Fishery Society had established fishing ports at
Tobermory (1787) and
Ullapool (1788), but when shoals of
herring normally plentiful in the area moved away from the west coast, authorities turned toward Wick as a good prospect for the herring industry. Construction of Wick Harbour began in 1803 and was completed by 1811. It soon became a bustling harbour with ships from the
Isles, the coast of Scotland,
Wales,
Shetland, and the
Isle of Man. With the rise in fisheries, the size of the town increased, and Wick replaced
Thurso as the centre of both shipping and trade in Caithness. In 1800 a bridge was built at Wick, before which travellers from the south could only cross over into Wick via a footbridge of eleven pillars connected by planks. (Calder 32) In 1803 the
Highland Roads Act allowed that the "Parliamentary" road which ran from
Inverness to Thurso be extended from the
Ord to Wick and then to Thurso, construction of which was completed in 1811. (C&S 67) In 1818, the mail coach, which was already running between Inverness and
Tain, extended its reach by passing
Bonar Bridge and the Ord to Wick and Thurso, which offered better communication between Wick and the south of Scotland. In 1806,
Wick Baptist Church was founded, first meeting in a small loft in Kirk Lane, and later moving into a newly built Church in Union Street in 1865.
Wick Town Hall was completed in 1828. Pulteneytown was founded in 1808 to provide space for the many Scots displaced by the
Highland Clearances, who poured to the coast in search of work in the fishing industry. By the 1840s it was reported there were over 1,000 herring boats in the harbour alongside a large curing industry which had been developed around the harbour. In 1830, two years after the old town hall and jail gave way to the new one, the upstairs floor of the latter was the site of cock fight balls, dancing schools, and the administrative functions of the town. The Roman Catholic
Church of St Joachim was consecrated in 1836, being the first Catholic church in Caithness since the Reformation, initially serving seasonal Irish labourers working in the herring industry. It was built on land given to
Walter Lovi in gratitude for his ministry to the community during an epidemic of cholera. Two newspapers were established in Wick in the nineteenth century: the
''John o' Groat Journal in 1836 and the Northern Ensign'' in 1850, both of which are said to have espoused Liberal views in politics. Navigation was an ongoing challenge for vessels in the bay of Wick. In 1804 the
Two Brothers schooner from Sunderland was wrecked in the bay with the loss of all crew and passengers. In April 1836 the brig
Lalla Rookh was driven onto rocks at Elzy, described as a few miles east of Wick, on her way from
Newcastle upon Tyne to
Quebec in
ballast under the command of Captain Green, during a severe easterly gale. The population in 1841 was 1,333. From 18 to 19 August 1848, Wick was among the places affected by the
Moray Firth fishing disaster. Thirty seven men lost their lives . In 1868,
Robert Louis Stevenson stayed in Wick while his uncle,
Alan Stevenson, a lighthouse engineer, was overseeing the construction of the nearby
Noss Head Lighthouse, which opened in 1869. Stevenson was later to write about Wick. (See below under Historic descriptions of Wick.) In 1884, John Richard Blakiston reported that boat building, rope making, and the herring fishery provided most of the employment for the 8,000 inhabitants of Wick. In the spring of 1895, the local poet George Wallace Levack claimed to have encountered fairies at the top of the Fairy Hillock 1.25 miles north of Wick. Reciting his poem to the Queen of the Fairies, he reached the passage that said, “Queen of Fairies appear." As the story goes, immediately upon his uttering the words, about “200 figures appeared dancing and whirling in a circle” in the middle of which was the Fairy Queen. This fanciful encounter was reported in
John O’Groats Journal on April 19. The Fairy Hillock is associated with a
cairn on the right bank of the
River Wick, about 1.25 miles north of the town.
20th century From 1922 to 1947, Wick imposed prohibition on its residents. Captain
Ernest Edmund "Ted" Fresson,
OBE, the founder of
Highland Airways Limited, established the first air service at Wick, using a grass field north of town. On 8 May 1933 Fresson's company began its first scheduled service between Inverness, Wick, and Kirkwall. In 1939, the field was put under the authority of the
Air Ministry and turned into an
RAF base. The field was improved with hard runways, hangars, and other buildings, and became one of fourteen airfields ranging from
Iceland to
North Yorkshire administered by No. 18 Group,
RAF Coastal Command, whose headquarters was at Pitreavie,
Fife. Pilots flying from Wick engaged in reconnaissance, anti-submarine patrols, convoy escort, defence of
Scapa Flow, and strikes against the Germans in Norway and Norwegian waters. The plane most frequently used was the
Lockheed Hudson. In May 1940, Wick came under frequent air attack after the defeat of the
Netherlands and
Denmark and the occupation of Norway left Wick more vulnerable, and their defence of Scapa Flow and the harbour area made them a target. It is stated that 222 high explosives were dropped on Caithness, and that Wick proper was attacked six times. The first and most serious bombing was on 1 July 1940,
when a bomb fell on Bank Row during daytime hours when children were playing outside, the first daytime bombing in the
UK. Fifteen people were killed, eight of them children. Four shops and four houses were completely destroyed in Bank Row, and in Rose Street several houses were damaged.
Fishing In the years before the First World War, the trade in cured herring with the Continent was well-established, with most of the fish being sent to Germany and Russia. The OS Map of Wick from 1907 shows that at that time in addition to the main harbour, there were a number of smaller harbours on the northern side of Wick River. The railway terminus had a number of sidings, an engine shed,and a turntable; the line to
Lybster was in operation, and the rope works were still in business. There were two weirs on the river, and access to the harbour from the north was by means of a swing bridge. The War had a disruptive effect on the trade, terminating export to Russia and introducing uncertainty in financial dealings with Germany, but the following statistics show that prior to the "primal catastrophe of the 20th Century", Wick's fishing industry was developing well. While the number of fishing vessels was dropping, the total tonnage was steady, and the drop in the number of fishermen employed is indicative of improving productivity. Unlike the situation in smaller fishing ports such as Lybster and
Latheronwheel which went into decline, the quantity of fish landed and the value both increased.: ==Historic descriptions of Wick==