Flannel has been made since the 17th century, gradually replacing the older Welsh plains, some of which were finished as "cottons" or
friezes, coarse woolen cloth that was the local
textile product. In the 19th century, flannel was made particularly in towns such as
Newtown, Montgomeryshire,
Hay on Wye, and
Llanidloes. The expansion of its production is closely associated with the spread of
carding mills, which prepared the wool for spinning, this being the first aspect of the production of woollen cloth to be mechanised (apart from
fulling). The marketing of these
Welsh woollen clothes was largely controlled by the
Drapers Company of Shrewsbury. Flannel became popular in the United States during the Civil War, when it was imported as an inexpensive, sturdy material for soldiers’ basic coats and undershirts. American entrepreneur Hamilton Carhartt is most credited with popularizing flannel garments in the USA. He opened a flannel-focused textile plant, the first of its kind, in Detroit in 1889. It was during the years following this introduction that the American middle class adopted the flannel shirt as a workwear staple. At one time, Welsh, Yorkshire, Lancashire, and Irish flannels differed slightly in character due largely to the grade of raw wool used, some being softer and finer than others. Dyes determine the flannel's color; this was achieved by mixing white, blue, brown, and black wools in varying proportions. Lighter shades were achieved by bleaching with
sulphur dioxide. Originally, flannel was made of fine, short
staple wool, but by the 20th century, mixtures of
silk and
cotton had become common. At this time, flannel trousers became popular in sports, especially cricket, and it was used extensively until the late 1970s. Flannel
plaid shirts became popular teen wear in the early 1990s, being part of the
grunge style of bands like
Nirvana and
Pearl Jam. ==Types==