Early 1970s (1970–1973) Hippie look • The 1970s began with a continuation of the
hippie look from the
1960s, giving a distinct ethnic flavor. Popular early 1970s fashions for women included
Tie dye shirts, Mexican 'peasant' blouses, folk-embroidered Hungarian blouses, ponchos, capes, and military surplus clothing. Bottom attire for women during this time included
bell-bottoms, gauchos, frayed
jeans,
midi skirts, and ankle-length
maxi dresses. Hippie clothing during this time was made in extremely bright colors, as well as Indian patterns, Native American patterns, and floral patterns. • Women's hippie accessories of the early 1970s included chokers, dog collars, handcrafted neck ornaments, and accessories made from natural elements like wood, shells, stones, feathers, Indian beads and leather. All of these replaced standard jewelry.
earth shoes, authentic beaded and fringed Native American buckskin moccasins, including knee-high boot versions, and sandals, including tire-soled versions and huaraches. The back-to-nature direction of the times meant that there was also a lot of going barefoot.
Glamour wear had reached an all-time popularity. This young English woman is wearing a fringed suede miniskirt, 1971. • Although the hippie look was widespread, it was not adopted by everyone. Many women still continued to dress up with more glamorous clothes, inspired by 1940s movie star glamour. Other women just adopted simple casual fashions, or combined new garments with carefully chosen secondhand or
vintage clothing from the 1930s, 1950s and 1960s. • Glamorous women's accessories of the early 1970s included
cloche hats or
turbans,
pearl earrings, necklaces, bracelets, feather boas, black-veiled hats,
clogs, wedgies, cork-soled platforms, and chunky high heels.
Trousers and hemlines • The 1970s was the first decade in Western fashion history that women wore more trousers/pants than skirts and were free to do so in all settings. In the first half of the 1960s, designer
André Courrèges had promoted pants at all levels of formality, and by the end of the 1960s other designers had followed his lead and women on the street began wearing them increasingly as well, challenging dress codes at establishments throughout society. By the early 1970s, all barriers had been dropped and women wore pants everywhere, including jeans. The switch to trousers was partly due to the fashion industry in the year 1970 trying to push all women out of miniskirts and into calf-legth midiskirts, which came to be known as the "midi debacle" because women's resistance to it was so strong that it almost ruined the fashion industry as women refused to buy the long skirts that manufacturers had stocked up on. From 1970 to 1972, many women continued to wear
miniskirts, some took up the new longer skirts, but even more women simply switched over to trousers and jeans. Though a number of pant styles were popular and fashionable during this time, including knee-length knickers and gauchos, the most common style of trouser in the early seventies was fitted at the hips and then flared gently to a foot-covering hem, a look given impetus when
Yves Saint Laurent endorsed it in all his collections in 1968.
General trends • More simple early 1970s trends for women included fitted blazers (coming in a multitude of fabrics along with wide lapels), long and short dresses, mini skirts, maxi evening gowns,
hot pants (extremely brief, tight-fitting shorts) paired with skin-tight T-shirts, characteristic of the period. Standard jean denim during this period might be pre-faded and softened via pre-washing, but it was still of a thick, sturdy weight designed to last, not yet thinned to virtual
leotard weights like it would be in the 2000s. Both men and women wore their shorts at the upper thigh, with cut-off blue-jean shorts extremely popular, usually worn with t-shirts or tank tops. Women frequently paired them with halter tops that were often just the tops of string bikinis. The popularity of jeans led to blue denim being used for many other garments, as well as other fabrics being given a blue denim look. On the feet, platform shoes were widespread in a variety of styles, including clog-like forms and sandals, with relatively wide straps but never spindly heels; heels were always thick and chunky. The young paired these with colorful, often brightly striped knee-socks, some with separate toes like gloves for the feet, called toe socks. • In the early 1970s boots were at the height of their popularity, continuing onward from the mid-1960s. Women had boots for every occasion, with a wide variety of styles being sold in stores for affordable prices. Despite the wide variety, the most popular boots were
Go-go boots, crinkle boots (boots with a shiny wet look that was wrinkled), stretch boots, and granny boots (1920s style lace-up boots that ended just below the knees).
Mid-1970s (1974–1976) couple, Michigan Avenue, Chicago, July 1975
Casual looks • By 1974, the T-shirt was no longer considered underwear, and was by then made in elaborate designs such as slogans, sports teams, and other styles. In the mid-1970s women wore
sweaters,
T-shirts,
cardigans,
kimono, graphic T-shirts and sweaters, In 1975, the slim-legged jean style known as the cigarette-leg was introduced, a style that would dominate the end of the decade. Around 1976, casual fashion adopted a Parisan peasant look. This included capes,
turbans, puffy skirts and shirts with billowing sleeves. White pukka shell necklaces were also worn by both sexes. Small leather shoulder bags were worn by women everywhere, and popular shoes included
Mary Janes,
knee-high boots with rounded toes, including Dingo boots and Frye boots (often with pants tucked in),
platform shoes and sandals, wedge-heeled espadrilles that often had long cords to wrap around the ankle, Birkenstocks, and loafers.
Active wear • Clean-cut, all-American active wear for women became increasingly popular from 1975 onwards. The biggest phenomenon of this trend was the
jumpsuit, popular from 1975 onwards. Jumpsuits were almost always flared in the legs, and sleeves varied from being completely sleeveless to having extremely long bell-sleeves.
low rise pants, and
leisure suits. • Starting in 1975, women's semi-formal wear became more tailored and sharp. This included a lot of layering, with women wearing two blouses at once, multiple sweaters, pants underneath
tunic dresses, and
jumpers worn over long, fitted dresses. The 1970s also featured some of the most scandalous dresses worn publicly in American history up to that point. • Disco fashion was generally inspired by clothing from the early 1960s. Disco clothes worn by women included tube tops, sequined
halterneck shirts, blazers, spandex
short shorts, loose pants, form-fitting
spandex pants, maxi skirts and dresses with long thigh slits, jersey
wrap dresses, and
evening dresses. the women's skirts swirling over their high-heeled sandals; people in mid-seventies casualwear like gauchos/culottes and cowlneck tops with full knee-high boots; couples in matching jeans, t-shirts, and trainers; people in gym shorts and tube tops; people dressed as sailors and cowboys; etc, comfort and practicality being paramount for the era's active dancing. By the late seventies, many discos maintained dress codes, and some, most famously
Studio 54, employed doormen to restrict entry only to the fashionably dressed. Brief disco fads included rainbow suspenders in the mid-seventies, hand-held fans waved by women in the late seventies, etc, all following fashion trends of the period. Along with wrapdresses, dancewear was adapted by women for discos, with maillots and leotards from
Capezio, Danskin, and other labels worn under fashionable skirts, gym shorts, and full-cut blouses. For most of the period, small "disco bags" were worn by women, envelope-size, envelope-looking leather bags threaded onto long, long, very narrow straps and worn either across the body or as belts while dancing.
The Big Look or Soft Look • The leading high-fashion trend of the mid-seventies, extending from 1973 and 1974 through the first half of 1978, was known as the Big Look or Soft Look, with big meaning voluminous. This was a loosening and increase in scale of the popular, casual peasant styles of the late sixties and early seventies and a reduction and elimination of internal structure like linings and padding to achieve what was known as an unconstructed look and feel. Introduced by designer
Kenzo Takada in 1973, carried further by
Karl Lagerfeld in 1974, adapted for the US by
Geoffrey Beene shortly thereafter, and endorsed in silhouette the same year by the most influential designer of the time,
Yves Saint Laurent, it came to influence everyone from
Calvin Klein to
Mary McFadden to
Givenchy to
Perry Ellis, who was probably the look's biggest US exponent. • The Big Look relied on loose, billowy, oversized shapes; comfortable, thin, gossamer-weight, natural-fiber fabrics like cotton gauze, crepe de chine, and challis, often left naturally wrinkled; a mostly neutral or earthtone, forest-tone, or wine-tone color palette, with prints small, muted, and often floral; layering; drawstrings, wrapping/tying, and rope-cords as opposed to hardware like buttons, zippers, and belts; capes, serapes, and shawls more than structured coats; oversized, unlined jackets and vests; extensive use of hoods and cowlnecks; full sleeve cuts like raglan, dolman, batwing, and bishop; big, rustic-textured sweaters; blouson tops; full, often ruffled blouses cut so large that they slid off the shoulder; camisoles; smock tops and smock dresses; bubble dresses or bag dresses; tent dresses; full sundresses; and mostly longer lengths in skirts, high-fashion versions generally ranging from mid-calf to ankle, though mini-tunics and mini-blousons were also part of the picture. Occasional slits, slashes, or full wrap skirts allowed for some show of leg amid all the billowing fabric. Skirts were almost entirely dirndls, with tiered or flounced versions called gypsy skirts or peasant skirts particularly popular. Skirts were also sometimes layered, with, say, a white underskirt beneath a hiked-up, floral-print top skirt. Pant shapes varied from full dungarees to full culottes and gauchos to full shorts called paper bag shorts, but most were tapered from full, pleated or drawstring-closed waists to narrow ankles, a style called "pegged" at the time, sometimes cut too long so they bunched up at the ankle. Dhotis, zouaves, and harem pants were also frequently shown. Comfort and ease were watchwords during this period, reflected in the Big Look's ubiquitous rolled-up sleeves. • Accessories worn with the Big Look were minimal, things like unobtrusive hemp-cord necklaces maybe strung with a very few earthy-looking beads, stickpins to hold layers of shawls together, and tasseled fiber cords worn instead of belts, the ends dangling over tunic hems and layers of skirts. When actual belts were worn, they tended to be in leather, narrow, and sometimes long enough to be double-wrapped. On the legs, you might find more of the kind of layering seen above, called the "layered leg": thick, warm tights, socks, stockings, and legwarmers in substantial knits in earthy colors for fall/winter, and perhaps white anklets and occasionally even layered cotton socks worn in spring/summer, even with sandals. Footwear was almost entirely either very bare sandals; rope-soled, canvas espadrilles, often wrapping around the ankle; or very full-shafted boots known as baggy boots or Cossack boots, with the fullness intended to bunch up in horizontal wrinkles at the ankle for what was referred to as a "crushed" look. Heels, often stacked during this period, could be any height from flat to high, the shape ranging from wedges to blocks to more tapered, but never stilettos. Makeup and hairstyles tended to be natural-looking, though smoky blush was common. Hair combs and flowers tucked into the hair were widespread, but headwear was minimal, consisting mostly of the occasional squishy beret or knit cap worn during winter and a brief vogue for tilted straw boaters in early 1978. • Though the thin fabrics, sliding-off-the-body volume, spaghetti straps, occasional straplessness, and slits/slashes in skirts and tops could reveal the body to some extent, the voluminous shapes and multiple layers of the Big Look resulted in some calling it shapeless, droopy, and rumpled. Others pointed out the impracticality of flyaway capes and shawls and considered the extensive fabric required for these styles extravagant. Nonetheless, its comfort and ease did suit women's lives and its rejection of man-focused coquetry reflected the powerful feminist influence in society at the time and resulted in the look dominating high fashion for several years and also influencing popular tastes, as it seemed an outgrowth of the moves toward natural fibers and comfort that were already widespread in society.
Late 1970s (1977–1979) Relaxed look s, while the woman on the far left is wearing a rayon strapless dress • In 1977, mass-market fashion became more baggy as the Big Look that had been dominant in high fashion since 1974 filtered down to the public. This caused much controversy, as women with trim figures bemoaned not being able to flaunt them while heavier women complained the looser clothes made them look even larger. To make up for this, it became fashionable to show more skin. This resulted in shirts being unbuttoned, sleeves being rolled up, and tops being strapless, transparent, and lacy. Shiny satin and gold colors were also used to make up for the lack of tighter clothing. Also in 1977, puffy, quilted, down-filled coats to the calf became popular during that year's very cold winter, originating in New York. By 1977, pants were only flared slightly and sometimes not flared at all. culottes, daisy dukes, and tennis shorts. flower printed
hippie dresses, flared trousers, and went out in public without the
hijab. This changed following the military dictatorship in Pakistan, the
mujahideen government in Afghanistan, and
Iranian revolution of 1979, when traditional conservative attire including the
abaya,
jilbab and
niqab made a comeback.
One-piece swimsuits • In 1977, American actress
Farrah Fawcett popularized the one-piece
swimsuit which in turn launched the trend for the
maillot. This was, when it resurged in the 1970s, a sexy, tight swimsuit, with deep neckline and high-cut legs, worn by young women and girls in lieu of the bikini, although it did not entirely replace the latter. This continued into the 1980s.
The pantsuit • By the late 1970s the
pantsuit had become acceptable business wear for executive women. This was due to the success of
Yves Saint Laurent's "Le smoking" tuxedo with silk lapels designed to allow any ash falling from cigarettes to slide off, keeping the jacket clean.
Business Insider pointed out that wearing the pantsuit was more of a political statement than a fashion one. "So, dressing in a YSL trouser suit declared the wearer was irreverent, daring, and on the cutting edge of fashion, whilst suggesting their alignment with burgeoning feminist politics – le smoking effectively demanded: 'If men can wear this, why can't I?'" With the increase of women entering the workface, they were in search for a new symbol that proved they were as serious and powerful as the men they shared elevators with. The only solution to convince male-dominated workspaces was to copy their
tailored suits. The jacket could be either short and shapely or long and lean. • Movies like
Annie Hall fought gender ideals by portraying a woman who wore men's clothing on the daily basis. This movie took a big inspiration from the decade and because of its success, continues to influence fashion. Skirts, when worn, were often knee-length and could possibly have a front or side slit that put a subtle emphasis on the legs. To offset the more traditionally masculine look of "business suit style", women like
Margot Kidder in
Superman experimented with hats, high heels, ruffles that peaked out from the jacket and large jewelry to keep a confident, yet feminine, look intact.
Designer jeans • In 1978, the first designer jeans were introduced and immediately became popular, designers like
Calvin Klein,
Gloria Vanderbilt, and
Fiorucci advertising their name on the back of the fashionable cigarette-leg, usually dark blue denim jean of the time. In the US in 1978, they were often worn with hems rolled up to or just above the ankle to show off the popular
Candie's slides on the feet.
"Baggies" (baggy jeans) • From 1979 to 1981, a popular style was jeans with a high-ish waist and full cut through the hips and thighs that tapered to a narrow but not tight hem hitting at the ankle or just above, called "baggies." They were paired in the fall with rustic-looking sweaters with shoulders fashionably widened via single, top-of-the-sleeve tucks or pleats called "dimples" by their creator
Perry Ellis, and the shoes worn with them were often high-vamped pumps with low cone heels inspired by
Maud Frizon, jazz oxfords, or flat, lace-up ankle boots.
Shoulder pads in 1979, wearing the shoulder pads and "retro"-look tilted hat favored by designers at the time • Styles became curvier for fall of 1978, with
shoulder pads, tighter skirts, and narrower waistlines. The silhouette that resulted was an inverted triangle. This change to big shoulders did not arise from women's demands, nor from what women on the street were wearing, the way miniskirts, jeans, pants, hippie clothing, office blazers, and more comfortable undergarments had in the 1960s and earlier '70s. Though decades later it would be claimed that the big shoulders of this period were part of an attempt by women to assert a "power" look as they worked their way up career ladders, big-shoulder looks did not come about because women were wanting to look more powerful for the boardroom; women already had appropriate but comfortable blazers for that. Big-shoulder looks didn't come from women on the street at all. The hugely shoulder-padded look came solely from designers, who united in showing the look in Fall 1978, a few presenting shoulders literally three feet wide, and there was strong resistance. Since the clothes were less comfortable and more restrictive than the clothes of the '70s and resembled too much the man-focused styles of the 1940s and '50s, this shoulder-padded look was initially a hard sell to the public, but some designers, notably
Perry Ellis,
Norma Kamali,
Calvin Klein, and
Giorgio Armani, made it more appealing by keeping it comfortably wearable and just adding reasonably proportioned shoulder pads to slightly slimmed-down versions of the easy clothes women had been wearing during the decade, and this approach was positively received by the general public. So many designers continued to present really huge shoulders into the eighties, however, that women were left with little option but to conform to it, which they did, so much so that big shoulder pads became common in and characteristic of the 1980s, seen on everyone from political leaders to actors in TV shows like
Dynasty to your coworkers and family. At the end of the seventies, though, in 1978 and '79, much of the public still considered it strange, though they had gotten the message that it was to be the new look. • This revival of 1940s and '50s styles included the heavily structured and shaped strapless tops seen in bodices of the forties and fifties, achieved with boning and other forms of stiffening. During the 1970s, the most common strapless top had been the casual-looking, minimally constructed, elasticized tube top, so this revival of structured, bodice-like forms seemed like a real throwback and was not immediately taken up by the public. Designer
Karl Lagerfeld, however, made it more comfortable by lining it with fiberfill and giving it the name bustier and as such it would become very popular during the 1980s, especially associated with singer Madonna. At the end of the seventies, however, it was seen only on runways, not yet widely worn, as the public still preferred the softer, more comfortable tube top when they wanted straplessness. • Footwear worn with these styles initially, in 1978, continued the very bare, high-heeled sandal that had been popular throughout the mid-seventies, now with a slightly higher heel and in more dressed-up materials and colors like black and metallics. These often had ankle straps and the heel fell straight down in the back rather than being underslung. In 1979, the higher-vamped, vaguely 1950s-looking pump that would characterize the eighties would appear, often in bright colors and marked by the underslung cone heels introduced by
Maud Frizon. Open-toed pumps were a particular focus in 1979. After dominating fashion since the early 1960s, knee-high boots were no longer in with designers, replaced by boots that rose no higher than mid-calf and usually didn't rise above the ankle, resembling the demi-boots of the 1950s and barely distinguishable from the new high-vamp pumps. • Another accessory trend that arrived with this new-old look was a determined attempt by designers to revive the wearing of dressy hats and gloves. For fall 1978, designers showed a plethora of mostly small forties- and fifties-looking hats, particularly small, tilted
pillboxes, often with veils, and the fashion press claimed that there was an increase in hat sales. Though hats and gloves of this type were only rarely seen among the public in 1978 and '79, mainly as an occasional accessory with a disco outfit, these revived hat and glove styles, like big shoulder pads, would continue to be shown during the following decade, occasionally becoming popular, and would be taken up by people for whom hat- and glove-wearing was customary, particularly royalty. == Men ==