at
Woodbury Common in south east Devon , on the coast of
North Devon Devon straddles
a peninsula and so, uniquely among English counties, has two separate coastlines: on the Bristol Channel and
Celtic Sea in the north, and on the English Channel in the south. The South West Coast Path runs along the entire length of both, around 65% of which is named as
Heritage Coast. Devon is the
third largest county by area and the largest of the counties not divided into county-like divisions (only Yorkshire and Lincolnshire were larger and both were sub-divided into ridings or parts, respectively). It is likewise the third largest administrative county.
Ceremonially it has ranked fourth by area since 1974 due to the creation of Cumbria, a situation which was mirrored administratively from 1974 till 2023. The island of
Lundy and the reef of
Eddystone are also in Devon. The county has more mileage of road than any other county in England. Inland, the
Dartmoor National Park lies wholly in Devon, and the
Exmoor National Park lies in both Devon and Somerset. Apart from these areas of high moorland the county has attractive rolling rural scenery and villages with
thatched
cob cottages. All these features make Devon a popular
holiday destination. In
South Devon, the landscape consists of rolling hills dotted with small towns, such as
Dartmouth,
Ivybridge,
Kingsbridge,
Salcombe, and
Totnes. The towns of
Torquay and
Paignton are the principal seaside resorts on the south coast. East Devon has the first seaside resort to be developed in the county,
Exmouth and the more upmarket Georgian town of
Sidmouth, headquarters of the East Devon District Council. Exmouth marks the western end of the Jurassic Coast
World Heritage Site. Another notable feature is the
coastal railway line between Newton Abbot and the Exe Estuary: the red sandstone cliffs and sea views are very dramatic and in the resorts railway line and beaches are very near. North Devon is very rural with few major towns except
Barnstaple,
Great Torrington,
Bideford and
Ilfracombe. Devon's Exmoor coast has the highest cliffs in southern Britain, culminating in the
Great Hangman, a "hog's-back" hill with a cliff-face, located near Combe Martin Bay. Its sister cliff is the Little Hangman, which marks the western edge of coastal Exmoor. One of the features of the North Devon coast is that
Bideford Bay and the
Hartland Point peninsula are both west-facing, Atlantic facing coastlines; so that a combination of an off-shore (east) wind and an Atlantic swell produce excellent surfing conditions. The beaches of Bideford Bay (
Woolacombe,
Saunton,
Westward Ho! and
Croyde), along with parts of North Cornwall and South Wales, are the main centres of surfing in Britain.
Geology A geological dividing line cuts across Devon roughly along the line of the
Bristol to Exeter line and the
M5 motorway east of Tiverton and Exeter. It is a part of the
Tees–Exe line broadly dividing Britain into a southeastern lowland zone typified by gently dipping
sedimentary rocks and a northwestern upland zone typified by
igneous rocks and folded sedimentary and
metamorphic rocks. The principal geological components of Devon are i) the
Devonian strata of north Devon and south west Devon (and extending into Cornwall); ii) the
Culm Measures (north western Devon also extending into north Cornwall); and iii) the granite
intrusion of Dartmoor in central Devon, part of the
Cornubian batholith forming the 'spine' of the southwestern peninsula. There are
blocks of Silurian and Ordovician rocks within Devonian strata on the south Devon coast but otherwise no pre-Devonian rocks on the Devon mainland. The metamorphic rocks of Eddystone are of presumed Precambrian age. The oldest rocks that can be dated are those of the Devonian period, which are approximately 395–359 million years old. Sandstones and shales were deposited in North and South Devon beneath tropical seas. In shallower waters, limestone beds were laid down in the area now near Torquay and Plymouth. This geological period was named after Devon by
Roderick Murchison and
Adam Sedgwick in the 1840s and is the only British county whose name is used worldwide as the basis for a geological time period. Devon's second major rock system is the Culm Measures, a geological formation of the
Carboniferous period that occurs principally in Devon and Cornwall. The measures are so called either from the occasional presence of a soft, sooty coal, which is known in Devon as
culm, or from the contortions commonly found in the beds. This formation stretches from Bideford to
Bude in Cornwall, and contributes to a gentler, greener, more rounded landscape. It is also found on the western, north and eastern borders of Dartmoor. The sedimentary rocks in more eastern parts of the county include
Permian and
Triassic sandstones (giving rise to east Devon's well known fertile red soils);
Bunter pebble beds around Budleigh Salterton and Woodbury Common and
Jurassic rocks in the easternmost parts of Devon. Smaller outcrops of younger rocks also exist, such as Cretaceous
chalk cliffs at Beer Head and gravels on Haldon, plus
Eocene and
Oligocene ball clay and
lignite deposits in the Bovey Basin, formed around 50 million years ago under tropical forest conditions.
Climate Devon generally has a cool oceanic climate, heavily influenced by the
North Atlantic Drift. In winter, snow is relatively uncommon away from high land, although there are a few exceptions. The county has mild summers with occasional warm spells and cool rainy periods. Winters are generally cool and the county often experiences some of the mildest winters in the world for its high latitude, with average daily maximum temperatures in January at . Rainfall varies significantly across the county, ranging from over on parts of Dartmoor, to around in the
rain shadow along the coast in southeastern Devon and around Exeter. Sunshine amounts also vary widely: the moors are generally cloudy, with the uplands near Princetown receiving less than 1,400 hours of sunshine annually, but the SE coast around Brixham and Berry Head receives more than 1,800 hours annually and is one of the sunniest areas of the UK. With westerly or south-westerly winds and high pressure the area around Torbay and Teignmouth will often be warm, with long sunny spells due to shelter by high ground (
Foehn wind).
Ecology ,
North Devon The variety of habitats means that there is a wide range of wildlife (see
Dartmoor wildlife, for example). A popular challenge among
birders is to find over 100 species in the county in a day. The county's wildlife is protected by several wildlife charities such as the
Devon Wildlife Trust, which looks after 40 nature reserves. The Devon Bird Watching and Preservation Society (founded in 1928 and known since 2005 as "Devon Birds") is a county bird society dedicated to the study and conservation of wild birds. The
RSPB has reserves in the county, and
Natural England is responsible for over 200 Devon
Sites of Special Scientific Interest and
National Nature Reserves, such as
Slapton Ley. The
Devon Bat Group was founded in 1984 to help conserve bats. Wildlife found in this area extend to a plethora of different kinds of insects, butterflies and moths; an interesting butterfly to take look at is the
chequered skipper. Devon is a national hotspot for several species that are uncommon in Britain, including the
cirl bunting;
greater horseshoe bat;
Bechstein's bat and
Jersey tiger moth. It is also the only place in mainland Britain where the sand crocus (
Romulea columnae) can be found – at Dawlish Warren, and is home to all six British native land reptile species, partly as a result of some reintroductions. Another recent reintroduction is the
Eurasian beaver, primarily on the river Otter. Other rare species recorded in Devon include seahorses and the sea daffodil. The botany of the county is very diverse and includes some rare species not found elsewhere in the British Isles other than Cornwall. Devon is divided into two
Watsonian vice-counties: north and south, the boundary being an irregular line approximately across the higher part of Dartmoor and then along the canal eastwards. Botanical reports begin in the 17th century and there is a
Flora Devoniensis by Jones and Kingston in 1829. A general account appeared in
The Victoria History of the County of Devon (1906), and a
Flora of Devon was published in 1939 by
Keble Martin and Fraser. An
Atlas of the Devon Flora by Ivimey-Cook appeared in 1984, and
A New Flora of Devon, based on field work undertaken between 2005 and 2014, was published in 2016. Rising temperatures have led to Devon becoming the first place in modern Britain to cultivate olives commercially. In January 2024, plans were announced to plant over 100,000 trees in northern Devon to support
Celtic rainforests, which are cherished yet at risk ecosystems in the UK. The project aims to create 50 hectares of new rainforest across three sites, planting trees near existing rainforest areas along the coast and inland. Among the tree species to be planted is the rare
Devon whitebeam, known for its unique reproduction method and once-popular fruit. Led by the
National Trust and with the assistance of volunteers and community groups, the initiative will focus on locations in
Exmoor,
Woolacombe,
Hartland, and
Arlington Court. ==Demographics==