Middle Ages In the 11th century, women in
Europe wore loose garments that were similar in shape to the
tunics worn by men.
Sleeves varied in fit and length, and hemlines fell below the knees, most often reaching the
ankle or ground. These dresses were worn over ankle-length
chemise garments. As the century progressed, these dresses featured a tighter fit on the arms and upper body. The tighter fit was achieved by making slits to the waist and in the sleeves that were laced closed to fit the figure. Laces were gradually replaced by
buttons. By the end of the 11th century, sleeves widened with cuffs sometimes reaching several feet in circumference. This style remained popular into the 13th century, although the sleeves once again became more fitted. In the 13th and 14th centuries, a similar dress known as a
cote-hardie came into fashion. This garment was closed down the front of the bodice with buttons that extended to the hip; this resulted in a dress that was more fitted through the hip rather than just to the waist. These dresses also often featured decorative elements such as long strips of cloth around the elbow known as tippets. In the 15th century,
houppelandes and gowns became popular. Houppelandes were full-cut, floor-length dresses with high collars and full sleeves. Gowns were also long dresses, but they had open necklines, a closer-fitted bodice, and sleeves that became more fitted as the century progressed. Both houppelandes and gowns were often belted just below the bust.
16th century European dresses in at the start of the 16th century resembled those of the previous century: full-cut, belted gowns with large sleeve openings worn over a kirtle or petticoat and chemise. Decorative treatments such as pinking, slashing, and
blackwork embroidery became increasingly common. Necklines were initially low and broad, but wearers began to fill in the open space with high collared chemises or partlets. Although the overall style of dress was fairly consistent across the continent, there were regional differences often involving sleeve shape and decorative elements. European courts, such as
Tudor court and the
wives of Henry VIII, were influential in European fashion. The resulting silhouette resembled two triangles. The ropa style of dress was known by different names throughout Europe, including
sumarra (Italy),
marlotte (France), and
vlieger (Holland). From the 1570s, dress became even more highly decorated, exaggerated, and rigid. The previously popular conical skirt shape achieved with a Spanish farthingale was replaced by the wider, more conical wheel farthingale. In Colonial America, women most often wore a gown and petticoat, in which the skirt of the gown opened to reveal the
petticoat underneath. Women also had
riding habits which consisted of the petticoat, jacket and a waistcoat. This simpler style was also favored by
Josephine Bonaparte, The
Victorian era's dresses were tight-fitting and decorated with pleats,
rouching and frills. By 1881, the
Rational Dress Society had formed in reaction to the restrictive dress of the era. Another innovation of the 1910s was the ready availability of factory-made clothing. Waistlines started out high and by 1915 were below the natural waist. By 1920, waistlines were at hip-level. Between 1910 and 1920 necklines were lower and dresses could be short-sleeved or sleeveless. Women who worked during
World War I preferred shorter dresses, which eventually became the dominant style overall. ==Use==