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Geisha

Geisha (芸者), also known as geiko or geigi (芸妓), are female Japanese performing artists and entertainers trained in traditional Japanese performing arts styles, such as dance, music and singing, as well as being proficient conversationalists and hosts. Their distinct appearance is characterised by long, trailing kimono, traditional hairstyles and oshiroi make-up. Geisha entertain at parties known as ozashiki, often for the entertainment of wealthy clientele, as well as performing on stage and at festivals.

Etymology and terminology
A number of terms are used to describe the profession and community that geisha both live and work in. Though each has its own distinct meaning and translation, some are used interchangeably to describe the geisha community on the whole, such as and . ==History==
History
Origins In the early stages of Japanese history, (serving girls) were mostly wandering girls whose families had been displaced by war. Some of these girls offered sexual services for money while others made a living by entertaining at high-class social gatherings. After the imperial court moved the capital to Heian-kyō (Kyoto) in 794, aspects of now-traditional Japanese art forms and aesthetic ideals began to develop, which would later contribute to the conditions under which the geisha profession emerged. Skilled female performers, such as dancers, thrived under the Imperial court, creating the traditions of female dance and performance that would later lead to both the development of geisha and kabuki actors. During the Heian period, ideals surrounding relationships with women, sexual or otherwise, did not emphasise fidelity, with marriage within the Heian court considered a relatively casual arrangement. Men were not expected to be faithful to their wives, while women were expected to remain faithful to their husbands. The ideal wife instead was seen as a modest mother who managed the affairs of the house, following Confucian customs wherein love had secondary importance to the other roles a wife fulfilled within the marriage. As such, courtesans—who provided not only sexual enjoyment, but also romantic attachment and artistic entertainment—were seen both as an outlet for men and as common companions.Though geisha would not appear until the 1800s, the role and status of courtesans as artistic and romantic entertainers were a tradition that geisha came to inherit, with the basic artforms of entertaining guests through song, dance and conversation being employed and adapted to contemporary tastes by geisha. Walled-in pleasure quarters known as were built in the 16th century, with the shogunate designating prostitution illegal to practice outside of these "pleasure quarters" in 1617. Further still, some courtesans, whose contracts within the pleasure quarters had ended, chose to stay on to provide musical entertainment to guests, making use of the skills they had formerly developed as part of their job. In the 1680s, had become popular entertainers and were often paid to perform in the private homes of upper-class samurai. These dancing girls, who were too young to be called geisha but too old (over twenty) to be called odoriko, began to be called geiko. By the early 18th-century, lots of these had also begun offering sexual services as well as chaste performances. Performers who were no longer teenagers (and could no longer style themselves ). At that time, the word "geiko" became synonymous with illegal prostitute. The first woman known to have called herself "geisha" was a prostitute from Fukagawa, roughly around 1750, who had become a skilled singer and player. The geisha, who took the name of Kikuya, became an immediate success, bringing greater popularity to the idea of female geisha.Following Kikuya's success as a geisha, many girls began to make names for themselves as talented musicians, dancers or poets, instead of becoming prostitutes. In the next two decades, female geisha became well known for their talents as entertainers in their own right; these performers often worked in the same establishments as male geisha. Geisha in the 19th-century to present day By 1800, the profession of geisha was understood to be almost entirely female, and was established as a distinct role in its own right; however, geisha were, throughout various points within the Edo period, unable to work outside of the pleasure quarters, being affected by reforms aimed at either limiting or shutting down the pleasure quarters. These reforms were often inconsistent, and were repealed at various times. Once established as an independent profession, a number of edicts were then introduced in order to protect the business of courtesans and separate the two professions. Geisha were firstly forbidden from selling sex, though many continued to do so; if a courtesan accused a geisha of stealing her customers and business of sex and entertainment, an official investigation was opened, with the potential for a geisha to lose her right to practice the profession. Geisha were also forbidden from wearing particularly flashy hairpins or kimono, both of which were hallmarks of higher-ranking courtesans, who were considered to be a part of the upper classes. This popularity was then increased by the introduction of various laws intended to clamp down on and regulate the lower classes – in particular, the emerging merchant classes who had established themselves as the premiere patrons of geisha. Both had, over time, come to hold much of the purchasing power within Japan, with their status as lower class allowing them a degree of freedom in their tastes of dress and entertainment, in contrast to upper-class families who had little choice but to appear in a manner deemed respectable to their status. As the tastes of the merchant classes for kabuki and geisha became widely popular, laws introduced to effectively neuter the appearances and tastes of geisha and their customers were passed. This, however, had the adverse effect of leading to the rise in popularity of more refined and subversive aesthetical senses within those classes, further alienating courtesans and their patrons from popularity and contemporary taste; the introduction of laws on dress only furthered the popularity of geisha as refined and fashionable companions for men. As a result, over time, courtesans of both higher and lower ranks began to fall out of fashion, seen as gaudy and old-fashioned. By the 1830s, geisha were considered to be the premiere fashion and style icons in Japanese society, and were emulated by women of the time. Many fashion trends started by geisha soon became widely popular, with some continuing to this day; the wearing of by women, for example, was first started by geisha from the Tokyo of Fukagawa in the early 1800s. There were considered to be many classifications and ranks of geisha, though some were colloquial or closer to a tongue-in-cheek nicknames than an official ranking. Some geisha would sleep with their customers, whereas others would not, leading to distinctions such as geisha – a geisha who slept with customers as well as entertaining them through performing arts – ("prostitute") and ("whore") geisha, whose only entertainment for male customers was sex, and geisha, who did not, officially and in reality, sleep with customers at all. By the end of the 19th-century, courtesans no longer held the celebrity status they once did. This trend would continue until the criminalisation of prostitution in Japan in 1956. Pre-war and wartime geisha World War II brought lasting change to the geisha profession; before the war, geisha numbers, despite seeing competition from (café girls, the precursor to the bar hostess profession in Japan), had been as high as 80,000, From the 1930s onwards, the rise of the bar hostess began to overshadow geisha as the premiere profession of entertainment at parties and outings for men. In 1959, the Standard-Examiner reported the plight of geisha in an article written for the magazine by Japanese businessman Tsûsai Sugawara. Sugawara stated that girls now "prefer[red] to become dancers, models, and cabaret and bar hostesses rather than start [the] training in music and dancing at the age of seven or eight" necessary to become geisha at the time. Compulsory education laws passed in the 1960s effectively shortened the period of training for geisha apprentices, as girls could no longer be taken on at a young age to be trained throughout their teenage years. This led to a decline in women entering the profession, as most required a recruit to be at least somewhat competent and trained in the arts she would later go on to use as a geisha; by about 1975, mothers in Kyoto began accepting both recruits from different areas of Japan in larger numbers, and recruits with little to no previous experience in the traditional arts. Before this point, the number of in had dropped from 80 to just 30 between 1965 and 1975. Present-day geisha , one of the most famous tea houses where geisha entertain in Gion Kobu Modern geisha mostly still live in they are affiliated with, particularly during their apprenticeship, and are legally required to be registered to one, though they may not live there every day. Many experienced geisha are successful enough to choose to live independently, though living independently is more common in some geisha districts – such as those in Tokyo – than others. Geisha are often hired to attend parties and gatherings, traditionally at tea houses or traditional Japanese restaurants (). The charge for a geisha's time, previously determined by the time it took to burn one incense stick (known as ) or , was modernised during the 19th-century to a flat fee charged per hour. Over time the number of geisha has declined, despite the efforts of those within the profession. Factors include the nature of the economy, declining interest in the traditional arts, the exclusive and closed-off nature of the , and the expense of being entertained by geisha. The number of and geisha in Kyoto fell from 76 and 548 in 1965 respectively to just 71 and 202 in 2006 as a result. However, following the advent of wider accessibility to the internet from the mid-2000s onwards, a greater number of recruits have decided to join the profession with no existing ties to the through watching online documentaries and reading websites set up by to promote their business; In recent years, a growing number of geisha have complained to the authorities about being pursued and harassed by groups of tourists keen to take their photograph when out walking. As a result, tourists in Kyoto have been warned not to harass geisha on the streets, with local residents of the city and businesses in the areas surrounding the of Kyoto launching patrols throughout Gion in order to prevent tourists from doing so. In 2020, to address the income reduction among the Geisha community caused by the social distancing measures of COVID-19, a project called "Meet Geisha" was launched. Originally conceived as a way to bring groups of tourists to experience Geisha performances in a more relaxed and less intimidating setting, the initiative was introduced by an IT firm with the aim of capitalizing on an anticipated influx of tourists, including those visiting for the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. The online presence of Geisha culture extended beyond the project's Zoom calls and gained global popularity, bolstered by internationally acclaimed movies and TV shows such as Memoirs of a Geisha and Shōgun, as well as platforms like Roblox, among others. ==Appearance==
Appearance
A geisha's appearance changes symbolically throughout her career, representing her training and seniority. Apprentice geisha typically appear in one style of dress, the most formal, the entire time they are working: a long-sleeved kimono with a trailing skirt, a formal which may be extremely long, full white makeup and a traditional hairstyle, which is done using the apprentice's own hair. A geisha, in contrast, may not be called to wear her most formal outfit (a trailing with an of matching formality, a wig and full white makeup) to every engagement. Though apprentice geisha appear in their most formal dress when attending engagements all of the time, this appearance is not static, and the seniority of apprentices can generally be distinguished visually by changes to makeup, hairstyle and hair accessories. When an apprentice becomes a full geisha, her style of kimono changes from a long-sleeved one with a typically long to a short-sleeved one with an of the same length worn by any woman who wears a kimono; she may not wear a kimono with a trailing skirt to every banquet, and may choose not to wear white makeup and a wig at all as she grows older. Changes, and style of appearance, vary depending on the region of Japan a geisha or apprentice geisha works in; however, there is a general progression of appearance that can be seen as applicable to all geisha. Makeup Both and geisha wear traditional white foundation known as . In the past, this white makeup – formerly made with lead – would have illuminated the face of a geisha when the only lighting available was candlelight. is worn with red and black eye and eyebrow makeup, red lips and light pink blusher. Both and geisha underpaint their lips with a red lipstick known as . wear noticeably more blush – known as – than geisha. Young apprentices may have the mother of the house or their "older sister" mentors help them apply makeup. Geisha wear more black around the eyes and eyebrows than . Older geisha tend only to wear a full face of traditional white makeup during stage performances or on special occasions. Older geisha generally stop wearing around the same time they stop wearing to parties. For a short period before becoming a geisha, in some geisha districts colour their teeth black, usually accompanied by wearing the hairstyle and a decorated black formal kimono. Teeth blackening was once a common practice amongst married women in Japan and the imperial court in earlier times, but is now an extremely uncommon practice. Dress Geisha and always wear kimono while working, and typically wear kimono outside of work. The type of kimono varies based on age, occasion, region and season of the year. ======== Both and geisha wear the collar on their kimono relatively far back, accentuating (for ) the red collar of the underkimono (), and displaying (for both and geisha) the two or three stripes of bare skin ( and respectively) left just underneath the hairline when wearing . Both geisha and apprentice geisha typically wear kimono known as (also known as , which have extra-long, trailing hems. These kimono feature a collar set further back into the neck, and sleeves attached unevenly to the body of the kimono. These features allow the collar to be pulled further down the back when worn, with the sleeves – which, like all women's kimono, feature an open portion underneath the shoulder – offset on the shoulder to ensure that the underarm is not exposed awkwardly through the open inner side of the sleeve. are formal kimono, and are almost invariably made of fine silk. Their patterns generally follow the placement of motifs on formal kimono such as and , with motifs asymmetrically placed along the hem and along the shoulders. For extremely formal occasions, black that resemble are seen. Because they are formal clothes, informal fabrics, such as slubbed silk, cotton, linen and polyester, are not used for . As with regular women's kimono, are lined for most of the year, and unlined for the summer months; in winter, heavier formal fabrics such as may be used, and in summer, lightweight silk weaves such as (a plain weave with interspersed lines of leno weave) may be worn. When off-duty, if wearing kimono, both geisha and their apprentices wear regular, non-trailing kimono. wear with -style sleeves, with a tuck sewn into either sleeve, and a tuck sewn into each shoulder. These tucks are holdovers from a time when spent most of their teenage years as apprentices; the tucks would be let out as they grew. These tucks are still seen on some children's kimono. tend to be colourful and highly decorated, often featuring a design that continues inside the kimono's hem. The style of this kimono varies throughout different regions; apprentices in Kyoto tend to wear large but sparsely-placed motifs, whereas apprentices elsewhere appear in kimono similar to a regular , with small, busy patterns that cover a greater area. Unlike geisha, who almost invariably own the kimono they wear to engagements, apprentice geisha tend not to own their own kimono, and instead borrow those of their . This is because brand-new formal are extremely expensive, and are unlikely to be something an apprentice can afford. An apprentice may also decide not to become a geisha and drop out, leaving them with an expensive piece of clothing their cannot use for its other apprentices. As such, many have several kimono and used by their apprentices that have been used for several years, and some are known for their distinctive designs. Ex- pieces may be sold on when they are considered too worn for use in formal engagements, or when an closes and decides to sell its stock of kimono and . In such circumstances, it is sometimes possible to identify the a piece previously belonged to, as in the case of , the 's crest is woven, dyed or embroidered into one end of the . Apprentices wear long, formal . For apprentices in Kyoto this is almost always a () , a type of roughly long, but elsewhere may be the shorter and narrower . are always worn in a knot showing off the length, whereas apprentices elsewhere wear and () knots. When wearing casual kimono in off-duty settings, an apprentice may still wear a , even with a . Apprentices wear either or with their kimono, with being worn (in Kyoto at least) with all formal kimono. There are five different hairstyles that a wears, which mark the different stages of her apprenticeship. The hairstyle with hair ornaments are most closely associated with , can develop a bald spot on their crown caused by the stress of wearing these hairstyles almost every day, but in the present day, this is less likely to happen because begin their apprenticeship at a later age. in certain districts of Kyoto may also wear additional, differing hairstyles in the run up to graduating as a geisha. In the present day, geisha wear a variety of the known as the – a flattened, sleeker version of the worn as a bridal wig in traditional weddings. Though geisha also wear this hairstyle as a wig, it is usually shaped specifically to their face by a wig stylist. Older geisha may wear the style on special occasions, featuring a flatter "bun" () than both the and styles. Both the hairstyles of and geisha are decorated with hair combs and hairpins (), with geisha wearing far fewer than . The style and colour of hair accessories worn with some hairstyles can signify the stage of an apprentice's training. Typical combs and hairpins may be made of tortoiseshell or mock-tortoiseshell, gold, silver and semi-precious stones such as jade and coral. ==Traditional performances==
Traditional performances
Geisha entertain their guests with a combination of both their hostessing and conversational skills, and their skills in traditional Japanese art forms of dance, music and singing. Before deciding to begin a career as a geisha, new recruits are generally expected to have an interest in the arts, as well as some experience. As geisha numbers have fallen throughout the decades, this is no longer a strict prerequisite. Some will take on recruits with no previous experience, with some young geisha, despite having existing experience, expected to begin their lessons from the beginning. These dances are accompanied by traditional Japanese music. The primary instrument used by geisha to accompany dance is the , a banjo-like three-stringed instrument played with a plectrum. Originating in China as the , it was introduced to Japan first through Korea, and then the Ryukyu Islands in the 1560s, obtaining its current form within a century. The soon became the mainstay instrument of geisha entertainment in the 1750s. It is described as having a distinct and melancholic sound, with traditional music using only minor thirds and sixths in its composition. and there are many performances, with tickets being inexpensive, ranging from around ¥1500 to ¥7000 – top-price tickets also include an optional tea ceremony (tea and served by ) before the performance. Other also hold public dances, including some in Tokyo, but have fewer performances. , they also serve beer in a beer garden at the Kamishichiken Kaburenjo Theatre during the summer months. Another geisha beer garden is available at the Gion Shinmonso in the Gion district. These beer gardens also feature traditional dances by the geisha in the evenings. ==Training process==
Training process
Before the 20th century, geisha began their training at a young age, around the age of six. In the present day this is no longer the case, and geisha usually debut as around the age of 17 or 18. Labour laws stipulate that apprentices only join an aged 18, although in Kyoto are legally allowed to take on recruits at a younger age, 15–17. Before debuting as a , apprentices may live at the as – essentially a trainee, learning all the necessary skills to become a , as well as attending to the needs of the house and learning to live with her geisha sisters and within the . By watching other geisha and learning from the mother of the house (known as the ), apprentices learn how to speak with guests, the mannerisms necessary to be a geisha, and the traditions of the . Apprentices also learn how to comfortably wear kimono. A is an apprentice and is therefore bonded under a contract to her . The will usually supply her with food, board, kimono, , and other tools of her trade, but a may decide to fund everything herself from the beginning with either a loan or the help of an outside guarantor. Japanese traditional dances (in the style), tea ceremony, literature, and poetry. The second element is the entertainment training which a trainee learns at various tea houses and parties by observing her "older sister". The third is the social skill of navigating the complex social web of the ; formal greetings, gifts, and visits are key parts of the social structure of the , and crucial for the support network necessary to support a trainee's eventual debut as a geisha. Around the age of 20–21, a will graduate to geisha status in a ceremony known as (turning of the collar). Following debut, geisha typically do not go through major role changes, as there are no more formal stages of training. However, geisha can and do work into their eighties and nineties, Some foreign nationals who have completed training and worked as geisha in Japan include: • Fukutarō – (Isabella), a Romanian national who worked in the Izu-Nagaoka district of Shizuoka Prefecture. She began her apprenticeship in April 2010 and debuted a year later in 2011. • Ibu – (Eve), a geisha of Ukrainian descent working in the Anjō district of Aichi Prefecture. Ibu first became interested in being a geisha in 2000, after visiting Japan for a year to study traditional dance, and came back 7 years later to become a geisha. Ibu debuted as a member of the Ichikoma on 5 October 2010, and was still working as a geisha as of early 2012. She was reported as retired in 2016. • Juri – (Maria), a Peruvian geisha working in the resort town of Yugawara in the Kanagawa Prefecture. • Kimicho – (Sydney Stephens), an American national who worked as a geisha in the Shinagawa district of Tokyo. Stephens debuted in August 2015, but left the profession in 2017 for personal reasons. • Rinka – (Zhang Xue), a Chinese national from Shenyang, who became a geisha in Shimoda in the Shizuoka Prefecture in September 2011. • Sayuki – (Fiona Graham), an Australian geisha trainee who debuted in the Asakusa district of Tokyo in 2007 as the first registered foreign geisha in Japan. In February 2011, she was expelled from the Asakusa Geisha Association, and established an unregistered geisha house in the historic Fukagawa district. Graham died in January 2023. ==Geisha in Japanese society==
Geisha in Japanese society
Geisha are regarded in wider Japanese society as some of the most successful businesswomen in Japan, with almost the entirety of the being owned and run by women. New geisha are trained for the most part by their symbolic mothers and older sisters, and engagements are arranged through the mother of the house. Moreover, a geisha chosen as the heir () of a geisha house would have stable employment for much of her life, running the throughout her career until the next generation. Geisha and male guests Historically, geisha held an appeal for mainly male guests as a woman outside of the role of "wife". Wives were modest, responsible, and at times sombre, whereas geisha could be playful and carefree. Geisha would, on occasion, marry their clients, but this required retirement. Though relatively uncommon in previous decades, geisha parties are no longer understood to be affairs for male guests exclusively, with women commonly attending parties alongside other male guests. Though geisha will still gracefully flirt with and entertain male guests, this is understood to be a part of a geisha's hostessing and entertainment skills, and is not taken as a serious sign of personal interest. Geisha and relationships Despite long-held connotations between sex and geisha, a geisha's sex and love life is usually distinct from her professional life. Most geisha are single women, though they may have lovers or boyfriends over time, and are allowed to pursue these relationships outside of having a patron. In the present day, some geisha are married and continue to work in their capacity as geisha, despite it being uncommon; these geisha are likely to be based in regions outside of Kyoto, as its heavily traditionalist geisha districts would be unlikely to allow a married geisha to work. Geisha and prostitution Geisha have historically been conflated with prostitution and commonly confused with prostitutes, despite the profession being mostly forbidden from receiving payment for sex since its inception. Despite this, some geisha have historically engaged in prostitution, either through personal choice, or through coercion and at times force. In 1872, shortly after the Meiji Restoration, the new government passed a law liberating "prostitutes () and geisha ()", ambiguously grouping both professions together. The terms of the law caused controversy from the unclear differentiation between professions, with some officials claiming that prostitutes and geisha worked different ends of the same profession, and that there would be little difference in calling all prostitutes "geisha". Nonetheless, the government maintained an official distinction between both professions, arguing that geisha should not be conflated with or confused for prostitutes. Though the law officially maintained a distance between geisha and prostitutes, some geisha still engaged in prostitution. Writing in 1956, former geisha Sayo Masuda wrote of her experiences in the town of Suwa, Nagano Prefecture, where she was sold for her virginity a number of times by the mother of her . Such practices could be common in less reputable geisha districts, with towns in particular being known for their so-called "double registered" geisha (a term for an entertainer registered as both a geisha and a prostitute). partnership In the past, it had been unspoken tradition for an established geisha to take a , or patron, who would pay for her expenses, buy her gifts, and engage her on a more personal level – at times involving sex – than a banquet or party would allow. This would be seen as a sign of the man's generosity, wealth, and status, as the expenses associated with being a geisha were relatively high; as such, a was typically a wealthy man, sometimes married, who may have been financially supporting the geisha in question through company expenses. Mizuage as a rite of passage, a coming-of-age ceremony in which a patron paid a great sum of money to take a girl's virginity, did exist, but it was more of a courtesan's and prostitute's tradition than a maiko's and geisha's. Not all geisha groups practiced the ritual of selling virginity; it was indeed discouraged by many. Historically, there were indeed geisha groups that sold the virginity of maiko in the form of prostitution, and geisha registered as "double geisha" might even engage in prostitution multiple times to sell their virginity. Therefore, it is often mistakenly believed that all geisha in the past engaged in prostitution. Since the criminalization of prostitution in Japan in 1956, is no longer practiced within the . Traditionally, mizuage for maiko was a change in hairstyle that symbolized the girl's next step to becoming a geisha. During this ceremony, the top-knot of the respective Maiko's wareshinobu hairstyle is ritually cut open and small presents are handed out to ochaya she frequents, close clients, or her okiya may have close relationships with. Afterwards, the geisha wears the ofuku hairstyle as her everyday-hairstyle. ==Geisha districts==
Geisha districts
Geisha work in districts known as , and are said to inhabit the , a term originating from a time when both courtesans and geisha worked within the same areas. Courtesans were said to be the "flowers" in this moniker for their showy and beautiful nature, with geisha being the "willows" for their understated nature. Part of the comparison between geisha and willows comes from the perceived loyalty amongst geisha to their patronsover time, it became known that certain factions, such as certain political parties, would patronise some geisha districts with their rivals patronising others. Though courtesans (and by extension, prostitutes) were humorously known for having loyalty only to the customer paying them for the night, a geisha would stand by her patrons and defend their best interests, her loyalty to her patrons being perceived as higher than her loyalty to her money. the city of Hachiōji has its own geisha culture heritage. Kyoto The in Kyoto are known for their adherence to tradition and high prestige, with the image of a Kyoto typifying that of geisha culture within wider Japanese and international society. In Kyoto, the different known as the are seen as unofficially ranked. Gion Kobu (祇園甲部), Ponto-chō (先斗町) and Kamishichiken (上七軒) are seen as the most prestigious, with Gion Kobu at the top; below these three are Gion Higashi (祇園東) and Miyagawa-chō (宮川町). The more prestigious are frequented by powerful businessmen and politicians. The geisha in Niigata are known as . The Furumachi neighbourhood is the place where most are located, with places such as the Nabechaya. The Niigata are known for holding more flexible rules and traditions than other geisha districts in Japan, leading to the district's revival in the modern day, following a period of decline in the 1980s. Regional Though other regional are typically not large enough to have a hierarchy, regional geisha districts are seen as having less prestige than those in Kyoto, viewed as being the pinnacle of tradition in the . Geisha in towns such as Atami may also be seen as less prestigious, as geisha working in these towns are typically hired to work in one hotel for travelling customers they are usually not familiar with before entertaining; nevertheless, all geisha, regardless of region or district, are trained in the traditional arts, making the distinction of prestige one of history and tradition. ==In popular culture==
In popular culture
Geisha have been the subject of numerous films, books, and television shows. Films NovelsSnow Country (1948) by Yasunari Kawabata MangaKiyo in Kyoto (2016–2025) TelevisionThe Makanai: Cooking for the Maiko House (2023) ==See also==
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