In 1826 the western side of Australia was still called
New Holland, however the Dutch appeared to have no interest in its development. For the British, a port on the west or north coast might be a useful stage for trade with their settlements in the Cape of Good Hope, India and Singapore. However, the French were known to have an intense interest and French ships were exploring the Australian coasts. The British needed to assess further the potential of the region and find out the extent of the French interest without creating a diplomatic incident. For this task, Stirling, with his record of exploration, diplomacy and covert missions, was a natural choice.
New South Wales was running short of currency and the settlement on
Melville Island was short of food and scurvy was rife. A supply mission to these would be excellent cover for intelligence gathering activities.
Success sailed on 9 July 1826, carrying cases of coins and a distinguished passenger, Admiral Sir
James Saumarez,
Knight Companion of the Bath, a hero of the Napoleonic Wars. Ellen and one year old Andrew remained at home at Woodbridge. One of Stirling's officers was 3rd Lieutenant William Preston, who would marry Ellen's sister Hamilla seven years later.
Success arrived at the Cape of Good Hope on 2 September, discharged its passenger, took on provisions and set sail again, arriving at
Sydney Heads on 28 November. Captain
Jules d'Urville arrived in
Sydney Harbour on 2 December on the French
corvette ''L'Astrolabe. L'Astrolabe'' was on a voyage of exploration, which gave Stirling an opportunity to assess French interest in the region. Stirling and d'Urville dined together several times and Stirling discovered that
Astrolabe had a detailed chart of the
Swan River. Before leaving England, Stirling had studied the available charts of the west coast of Australia and had concluded that the Swan was a possible site for a harbour and settlement and had hoped to be the first European to explore and chart it. However, d'Urville indicated that the French did not consider that the Swan would be a suitable site for a harbour, because of the difficulty of access and lack of fresh water. This gave Stirling a free hand. A ship arrived from Melville Island on the same day as ''L'Astrolabe
, bringing reassuring news that scurvy was under control and the settlement was progressing more satisfactorily. The Governor, Major General Ralph Darling, advised Stirling to delay his visit to Melville until later in the year. Stirling then made a report to Darling, setting out detailed arguments for a mission to the Swan River. Darling gave his approval and, on 17 January 1827, Success'' sailed from Sydney for the Swan, via
Hobart in
Van Diemen's Land, where several cases of coins were delivered. On board
Success were the Colonial Botanist
Charles Frazer, the surgeon
Frederick Clause and the landscape artist Frederick Garling.
Swan River exploration The Nyoongar people call the river Derbarl Yerrigan. On 10 January 1697, the Dutch sea captain Willem De Vlamingh renamed it to the Swan River (Zwaanenrivier in Dutch) after the large number of black swans they observed there. One hundred and thirty years later, the British ship
Success arrived off the west coast of Australia on 5 March 1827 and anchored near the north east corner of Rottnest Island. The following day, the ship moved cautiously towards the coast and anchored about a mile from the mouth of the Swan. Lieutenant
Carnac and the ship's Master, Millroy, were left to take soundings and look for channels and possible landing places. Meanwhile, Stirling, Frazer and Lieutenant Preston made a preliminary reconnaissance up the river in the
gig. They sailed about five miles upstream, reaching a wide section which Stirling named
Melville Water. Other features were named after Stirling's brother Walter and Lieutenant Preston. During the next day more soundings were taken, and
Isle Berthelot and
Isle Buache were renamed
Carnac Island and
Garden Island. Stirling gave the name
Cockburn Sound to the "Magnificent Sound between that Island and the Main possessing great attractions for a Sailor in search of a Port". At mid-day on 8 March the exploration party - Stirling, Frazer, Garling, Clause, Lieutenant Belches, Midshipman Heathcote, the ship's clerk Augustus Gilbert, 7 seamen and 4 marines - left
Success in the cutter and the gig and sailed to
Point Belches. There the boats grounded and, as the party was unable to find a channel, the boats were unloaded and dragged across the shallows until nightfall. While this was being done, Stirling, Frazer and Garling climbed the commanding hill on the west bank, which Stirling named
Mount Eliza in honour of
Eliza Darling, the New South Wales Governor's wife. While there, Garling painted a watercolour landscape view showing the entrance to the river on the opposite side of Melville Water. Stirling later named this
Canning River after the British Prime Minister at that time. The next day, dragging across the shallows started at daybreak and continued until nightfall. Frazer, exploring on land, found a freshwater brook and Stirling named the nearby point of land
Point Frazer. Frazer also found a lagoon of fresh water and the party moved camp to beside it. On the following morning three armed Aboriginal warriors demonstrated their anger at the "invasion" (Stirling's word) of their territory with violent gestures, but eventually retired. During the day, the boats reached the Heirisson Islands and in the channel above them progress was much easier, but still slow, due to the winding of the river. On 11 March the boats passed through a long narrow stretch and encountered more Aboriginal people who threatened the boats with their spears from higher ground. When the boats reached more level terrain, gestures of goodwill defused the situation and the Aboriginals moved on. On 12 March the boats reached a place where a tributary, later named
Helena River, joined the Swan from the east. The party also found another fresh water stream, which they named
Success, on the west side of the Swan. From this point on, the Swan narrowed and there were many obstructions. The next day, the
cutter was holed and had to be repaired, after which the party reached a creek which Stirling named
Ellen Brook, after his young wife. The Swan was not navigable any further and Stirling and Garling set off on foot for the hills to the east, arriving at about sunset. On their return to camp they lost their way in the dark, but Frazer sent out search parties to guide them back. after which the ship returned to New South Wales, anchoring off Sydney Heads on 16 April. Stirling's report to Darling However, in their defence, both Clause and Frazer were subject to Stirling's intense enthusiasm for the project and may have been unduly influenced by it. Stirling wrote a second report on the Swan River on 31 August. This was addressed to the Admiralty and was shorter, placing more emphasis on naval concerns and the strategic value of the area.
Melville Island and North Australia Stirling's original mission included a task to carry supplies to Melville Island. However, Darling had received further instructions to investigate the formation of a new settlement on the coast to the east of Melville Island. Accordingly,
Success left Sydney on 19 May 1827 carrying an establishment force for a new settlement and accompanied by the brig
Mary Elizabeth. The two ships separated.
Mary Elizabeth sailed to Melville Island and on 15 June
Success anchored in Palm Bay, on the western side of Croker Island. Stirling quickly established that the island was unsuitable for settlement and sent a boat across to the mainland to explore
Raffles Bay. The report being favourable, Stirling looked no further and on 18 June he went ashore with his officers to take possession of Raffles Bay and the surrounding territory in His Majesty's name. Moody was endorsed by the
Tories in
Parliament, who had recently commended his report to Parliament on slavery. Moody had previously advised Stirling's relation
James Mangles R. N. about the settlement of the
Swan River Colony at minimal cost to the British Government. Parliament initially rejected the proposal of Stirling and Moody, but rumours of a new French interest in the region provoked
Sir George Murray, on 5 November, to request that the Admiralty send a ship-of-war "to proceed to the Western Coast of
New Holland and take possession of the whole territory in His Majesty's name." This task was given to under the command of Captain
Charles Fremantle and, a week later, a further order was issued to prepare to carry a detachment of troops to the Swan River. On 31 December Murray wrote to Stirling confirming his title as Lieutenant-Governor of the new colony and on the same day his Under-Secretary, Robert Hay, confirmed the appointment of the members of the civil establishment including Colonial Secretary
Peter Brown, Surveyor-General
John Septimus Roe, Harbourmaster
Mark John Currie, naturalist
James Drummond, a surgeon, a storekeeper, a cooper, a blacksmith and a boatbuilder. After hectic preparations, on 6 February 1829 these pioneers, with their assistants, families, servants and livestock, departed
Plymouth in
Parmelia under Captain J H Luscombe out of
Spithead in company with
Sulphur, carrying 100 men of the 63rd Regiment of Foot, under the command of Major
Frederick Irwin, and three years' of army stores, 10,000 bricks and £1,000 to meet all expenses of government. On arrival on 31 May at
Garden Island, at what became known as the
Swan River Colony, they re-erected a wooden house that had first been assembled at Lieutenant Preston's home in
Sutton Green, Surrey, that would become the Governor's home. Stirling administered the Swan River settlement from June 1829 until 11 August 1832, when he left on an extended visit to England where he was knighted, and again from August 1834 until December 1838. However, he was commissioned as
Governor of Western Australia only from 6 February 1832, rectifying the absence of a legal instrument providing the authority detailed in Stirling's Instructions of 30 December 1828. Stirling had said: I believe I am the first Governor who ever formed a settlement without Commission, Laws, Instructions and Salary. With the creation of the
Western Australian Legislative Council in 1830, Stirling automatically became an official member. In October 1834 Stirling led a detachment of 25 armed troopers and settlers including
Septimus Roe and
Thomas Peel that attacked an encampment of 60-80
Pindjarep Aboriginal people. The Pindjarep fled into the bush and were later encircled near a crossing on the
Murray River at Pinjarra, Stirling referred to this as the
Battle of Pinjarra. Settlers accounts claim between 10 and 80 Aboriginal people died, compared to Aboriginal oral history which claim 150 people died. As recognition of his service in establishing the colony Stirling was granted land near
Beverley, Western Australia. This land, along with neighbouring properties was re-acquired by the Western Australian Government, who later subdivided the land into farmlets for returning soldiers. The remaining land was later used to establish the
Avondale Agricultural Research Station, which includes Stirling's restored homestead.
Harvey In 1829 Stirling selected of land in
Harvey and called it the "Harvey River Settlement". However, the only improvement made was a convict built cottage on the banks of the
Harvey River. The cottage featured a shingled roof and pit-sawn jarrah walls with hexagonal-shaped paving blocks fitted together to form firm flooring. A replica cottage known as Stirling's Cottage has been built on the site and includes one of the original paving blocks in its history room. ==Mediterranean and west coast of Europe==