MarketHaircloth
Company Profile

Haircloth

Haircloth is commonly understood as a stiff, unsupple fabric made from coarse fibre from camelids, bovines, horses, goats, rabbits, hares and reindeers. However, a softer variation is valued in the textile and fashion industries for their rarity, aesthetics and comfort. This is because there are two types of hair used in making haircloth; a rougher outer “guard coat”, and a softer undercoat. The outer coats are used in coarse fabrics, often applied to upholstery, carpets, underskirts and hairshirts, or cilices, while "luxury fabrics" use the softer undercoat.

Description
Haircloth is woven or knitted with fibres of uncommon animal varieties, including the following: • Mohair from the Angora goat, originating from Turkey. (Vicugna vicugna) in Peru. • Common Goat hair produced mainly in Greece and Argentina. However, due to inefficient procurement and production methods, the fibre has yet to be adopted industrially. Climatic differences and nutrient availability in the habitats of each source animal defines minute differences in the chemical structure of their hair. These structures define the quality of the resulting fibres’ much desired lustre and downiness. == Uses ==
Uses
hat made from Horsehair, 19th century. Brooklyn Museum, Brooklyn Museum Collection. Textiles from horse-tail hair are used in upholstery fabric, light hairs being reserved for dyes and black being used as is for their distinctive natural hue. Hair cloth has also been used in the panels of men's suit jackets. The wearing of haircloth was often also associated with the poverty and religious ascetism. There are suggestions that woven tent coverings of black goat hair were used in the 1st century C.E. in Cilicium, Turkey. and, as woven mats, suggested as possible solutions to water pollution. However, it has also been used to dehumanise communities in times of war. During the Holocaust of World War II, the hair of Polish Jews in Auschwitz were used by the SS in the manufacture of coarse fabrics. veil with a gold embroidered brow strap, 20th century. Produced in Egypt. Auckland Museum Collection. Suit construction In tailoring applications, haircloth is woven using cotton warp and horsehair weft. In traditional suit construction, haircloth is used to stiffen the front panels in men's suit jackets, and Savile Row tailors still make bespoke suits this way. However, in modern suits, haircloth is often replaced with synthetic fabrics. Horse hair veils Horse hair veils, known as burqa, were worn by women from the Persian Gulf in the late 19th century. This fashion trend then spread among the women of Afghanistan through wives of the upper-classes. A similar fashion is seen in Istanbul, Turkey, peche and lisam of the 16th century, and the yashmak of the 17th and 18th are also made of horsehair. This is attributed to the influences of a shared cultural sphere between Joseon Korea and Jiangnan established through lesser known trade routes. Horse-hair sieves , Germany. A man weaving the wooden frame of a sieve. Jost Amman and Hans Sachs, 16th century. In Scandinavia, central Europe and Asia, horsehair sieves were crafted by common folk of Sweden, Slovenia and Japan. In Škofja Loka, this was exported to the rest of Continental Europe, Africa and Asia minor. When the sieve trade saw a gradual decline in the late 19th century, horse fibres began to be used instead in tapestries. Haircloth mats In 19th century Northern England, haircloth was employed in the drying of malt for brewing in place of perforated metals which would scorch the grain. It would be spread over the kiln floor to keep grain from dropping down into the furnace. Hair is woven into thick threads which are then braided into blankets due to the insulating properties provided by the coarse knotting resulting from its manufacturing process. The textile was also used as banners, altar covers and girdles. The rough was used as bedspreads as a show of devotion in Gaul between the 5th and 9th centuries. embroidered plain weave of camelid hair with needle-knitted border, c. 2nd to 1st century BCE. Honolulu Museum of Art. Photograph by Hiart == History and archeology ==
History and archeology
Haircloth has been made and used since prehistory. Woven cloths, especially from goat, camel and horse fibres have been found in archeological sites around the world dating from the 8th century B.C.E. to the 15th century C.E.. Paracas textiles Elaborate, brightly woven tapestries of vicuña, llama, human hair textiles were found at the Cavernas archeological dig-site of Paracas, Peru, in 1925, by Julio C. Tello. In Hallsatt, Germany, belts of braided horsehair and wool have been found at an early Iron Age site, La Tène. This belt was woven ensure flexibility along its length, but rigidity along its width. In Skrydstrup, Denmark, a horse-hair net was found on a woman in a tree coffin from the 8th century BCE. In Hochdorf, Switzerland, soft badger hair was used for a chieftain’s overcoat, found in a grave dating to the 5th century BCE. == Process ==
Process
Procurement Depending on the source and location of production, methods of procurement would differ. Goathair is often simply sheared or trimmed like wool. Reindeer hair can be sheared, but is also produced in the processing of the animal's fur. In Europe spinning was done with hooked shuttles, and in areas such as Mongolia and Arabia, it is done by hand and spindle. In Medieval London, the weaving and extending was often done by the weaver and his assistant respectively. Meanwhile, Mongolian haircloth can be braided with Kh.zoos širees, or “coin table”, where each thread is weighted equally by Chinese coppers to prevent warping of braids. Sometimes certain threads are more lightly weighted to create an intentional warping. The Da.danz is made by alternating weft threads on a circular warp, wound around a board from which the finished work will hang. ==References==
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