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Verona Arena

The Verona Arena is a Roman amphitheatre located in the historic center of Verona, Italy. It is among the best-preserved ancient amphitheatres to have survived into the modern era. This remarkable state of preservation is largely due to systematic restoration efforts that began in the 16th century.

History
Controversies surrounding the construction date In the absence of written sources regarding the amphitheatre’s construction, historical proposals for when it was built range from the 1st to the 3rd century. Historian Pirro Marconi suggested a date between the second and third decades of the 1st century—spanning the late Augustan and early Tiberian periods—while more recently, Luigi Beschi leaned toward the mid-1st century. To more accurately date the Arena, scholars have compared it to the amphitheatre of Pula, which shares similarities with Verona's in both stylistic and technical aspects. Both belong to a common geographical and cultural region, and some historians have hypothesized that they may have been designed by the same architect and constructed by the same workforce. This helmet style emerged at the end of the Augustan era, around 10–20 AD. This narrows the construction window to the late reign of Augustus and the early reign of Claudius. Given that statues were typically crafted at the end of a building’s construction, Pirro Marconi inferred that the Arena was completed by approximately 30 AD. The amphitheatre were part of the monumentalization projects in Verona during the Julio-Claudian era, which also included the Forum of Verona and the embellishment of the city’s gateways. Both the Verona and Pula amphitheatres predate the construction of the Colosseum, representing new developments in the evolution of this architectural form. In 1874, Antonio Pompei conducted excavations around the Arena, uncovering the foundations of the Gallienus walls, which ran 5 meters from the amphitheatre. It was discovered that these walls intersected the rainwater drainage channels, though the Arena remained usable for spectacles thanks to an alternative solution: a large central well, identified in the 18th century. However, the drainage system became less efficient, marking the beginning of the amphitheatre’s decline. Though unconfirmed, it is possible that the amphitheatre was used for the martyrdom of Christians. The Marquis Scipione Maffei speculated that Firmus and Rusticus were martyred here in 304, on the same occasion that Bishop Proculus asked to be martyred, but was instead mocked and sent away because he was old. by Constantine I’s troops, from the Constantinian frieze on the south side of the Arch of Constantine in Rome. The relief on the right shows the walls enclosing the Arena, though the Arena itself is not visible. In 312, Verona played role in the war between Constantine and Maxentius, when the latter barricaded himself in the city, and Constantine’s forces laid siege. The assault focused on the amphitheatre, which served as a bastion for the defenders due to its height surpassing the Gallienus walls. Two critical clashes of that campaign occurred in front of the Arena: the sortie by the besieged, enabling Ruricius Pompeianus to seek reinforcements, and the nocturnal battle, where Constantine faced attacks from both the defenders and arriving reinforcements yet emerged victorious. This battle is documented in a panegyric to Constantine and depicted in a relief on the Arch of Constantine, showing Verona under siege. In the square relief, Constantine is depicted on the left, shielded by a guard and crowned by Victory, while on the right, his army assaults the city as the defenders hurl arrows and javelins from the walls and towers. The rightmost section of the wall, lacking lower-level windows, likely represents the portion enclosing the Arena. Several funerary inscriptions of gladiators who died fighting in the Arena have also been discovered in Verona. The least informative is a damaged slab bearing the phrase [famil]ia gladiatoria; a second mentions the secutor Aedonius, who fought eight times in Verona before being defeated and killed at the young age of twenty-six; another pertains to a retiarius named Generosus, from the gladiatorial school of Alexandria, who fought twenty-seven times without defeat and died of natural causes; yet another belongs to Pardon, a Dertonensis, who perished in his eleventh bout. From this, it appears that Glaucus made a vow to Nemesis, a deity revered by gladiators, for his safety, but to no avail. He warns readers not to place too much faith in Nemesis, as a gladiator’s fate also hinged on skill and chance. Glaucus, whose inscription features depictions of a retiarius’s weapons, indicating he was likely a retiarius, must have been a skilled fighter, as his tomb was funded partly by his supporters. The mosaic shows a retiarius versus a secutor, with the retiarius on the ground and a referee intervening. Above, the gladiators’ names are nearly faded, but a V (for vicit, “he won”) appears over the secutor, and ISS—likely once MISS for missus, “spared”—over the retiarius. The central panel depicts a Thracian gladiator triumphing over a murmillo lying bloodied on the ground, with the referee raising the victor’s arm; the defeated gladiator’s name, Caecro, is visible. The third scene shows a retiarius defeating another gladiator, who rests his shield on the ground in surrender. The existence of a gladiatorial barracks in Verona is confirmed by an inscription housed at the Maffeian Lapidary Museum, though some scholars suggest it may refer to an enclosed, open-air area for youths’ physical and recreational activities, not necessarily ruling out a barracks in the classical era. Medieval history , the oldest depiction of Verona, prominently featuring the amphitheatre still in excellent condition. During the Romano-Germanic kingdom of Theodoric the Great, the Verona amphitheatre likely underwent maintenance work and hosted spectacles, leading several medieval chronicles to attribute its construction to Theodoric: It was under Theodoric that the amphitheatre suffered its most severe damage. The discovery within the Theodoric walls of a block inscribed with the number LXIII from the amphitheatre indicates that much of the outer ring was demolished during the construction of this defensive wall, which extensively reused salvaged materials. This partial demolition was necessary both to procure building materials and to reduce the Arena’s height, deemed too vulnerable if captured during a siege. The structure retained the functionality of its cavea and the ability to host spectacles, as the height reduction of about 12 meters affected only the upper gallery, not the seating tiers. Subsequent damage to the amphitheatre resulted from natural disasters, including the Adige flood of 589, the earthquake of 1116, and the catastrophic earthquake of January 3, 1117. During the reign of Berengar, the first devastating invasions by the Hungarians forced defenders to bolster fortifications, using the Arena as a stronghold. In those years, Verona’s bishop Ratherius created the so-called Raterian Iconography, depicting Verona as it appeared in the mid-10th century, with its churches, gates, bridges, and walls. The Arena is shown with its outer ring still intact, accompanied by verses describing it as a labyrinth of dark galleries. On certain occasions, the Arena’s cavea was quarried for marble to support new constructions, particularly after the fire that ravaged the city in 1172. In the 13th century, the first efforts to halt the amphitheatre’s destruction emerged through restorations and commitments outlined in the municipal statutes of 1228. During the communal and Scaliger periods, legal battles reminiscent of ancient gladiatorial games were held within the Arena: to settle uncertain trials, litigants could hire professional fighters, known as champions. These contests drew crowds cheering for their favored combatant, with the oiled, naked fighters determining the trial’s outcome through their strength. Even Dante attended at least one such event, describing it in a canto of the Inferno: In 1278, at the behest of Alberto I della Scala, nearly 200 Cathar heretics captured in Sirmione by his brother Mastino I della Scala were burned at the stake within the Arena. It was also Alberto I who introduced regulations on the amphitheatre’s use: the 1276 statute decreed that prostitutes could reside solely within the Arena, while the 1310 update mandated its closure and imposed fines for breaking the gates or relieving oneself inside. These provisions seem contradictory—mentioning prostitutes inhabiting the arcades while simultaneously ordering closure—but this reflects a distinction, persisting until the 1800s, between the inhabited outer arcades and the enclosed inner cavea. Exceptions occurred, such as in 1382, when 25 days of festivities, including jousts and spectacles, were held inside for the wedding of Antonio della Scala to Samaritana da Polenta. In 1337, the city, indebted from a war against an anti-Veronese league, ceded the Arena’s rental income to the University of Citizens (a consortium of municipal creditors) with the consent of Mastino II della Scala. The monument would not be fully redeemed until 1586. Early modern history In 1450, under the Venetian government, new statutes were compiled, including provisions for the Arena, with one particularly significant decree: The same statute also reaffirmed that prostitutes were required to live in the Arena. This is the earliest official document describing the building as memorable, proposing solutions to ensure its preservation. . The amphitheatre thus began to hold great importance for the civic community. Verona was the first city, as early as the 1500s, to initiate a series of efforts prioritizing the protection and restoration of antiquities. Further restoration resumed in 1651 but paused in 1682, with additional significant interventions in 1694 and 1699, including partial repairs to the seating tiers. In the early 1700s, major maintenance ceased to allow for archaeological excavations within the Roman amphitheatre. These began in 1710 with Ottavio Alecchi, who uncovered the central well and an elliptical channel facing the first step, noting it was once covered by stone slabs with central circular holes 7 cm in diameter. In 1728, Marquis Scipione Maffei, a pivotal figure in the study and restoration of the monumental structure, published Degli Anfiteatri e singolarmente del Veronese, marking a significant shift toward a scientific and archaeological approach to the monument, prioritizing its preservation. In this work, he criticized excavations in the cavea that altered its original internal configuration. For this text, Maffei conducted thorough historical research and monument surveys, including excavations that yielded several finds. the division of the seating tiers into sections and wedges; the crowning of the upper interior with a loggia; the placement and height of the podium, which he calculated at 1.53 meters and later reconstructed; the purpose of underground conduits, which he argued could not have flooded the Arena; and the central well, previously thought to support the velarium, but which he interpreted as a rainwater drainage system. Jousts On February 26, 1590, the first documented joust took place inside the Arena, despite the ordinance to keep the cavea closed not yet being lifted, though it was gradually falling into disuse. Its use remained exceptional until the 17th century, when the interior, alongside the exterior, began to be leased out. On May 29, 1622, a Giostra della Quintana was held inside, described by chroniclers for its participation of knights not only from Verona but also from abroad, including some from Sweden. Another memorable joust occurred on May 4, 1654. with the last joust held on November 20, 1716, in honor of the Elector of Bavaria, organized by Scipione Maffei, who lamented that Verona’s nobles no longer held such events there. From that year, contracts leasing the monument’s interior shifted from equestrian activities to troupes of actors and dancers, who erected stages within the arena. The first precisely documented performance was Maffei’s Merope, staged in July 1713 by Luigi Riccoboni’s company. Carlo Goldoni attended one such show in July 1733, leaving a description in his Memoirs of the setting and atmosphere, with nobles and the wealthy seated in chairs and the common folk on the tiers. The most favored spectacle, however, was bull hunting, pitting a bull (or sometimes oxen) against dogs trained by butchers. In September 1786, Goethe visited Verona and marveled at the amphitheatre—the first major ancient monument he encountered—noting with surprise that the popular pallone game was not held inside. On January 1, 1807, the Deputation for Public Ornament was established, tasked with preserving the Arena. In 1816, following Verona’s transfer to the Kingdom of Lombardy–Venetia, it was renamed the Commission for Ornament. In 1817, excavations outside the amphitheatre traced the continuation of the channel aligned with its major axis, followed as far as Palazzo Ridolfi, as noted by an inscription there, and uncovered the foundations of the Gallienus walls, which intersected the channel. In 1820, the municipality ordered the eviction of residents from the Arena, assigning 42 arcades for storage use. Evicting 36 tenants was a crucial step toward the monument’s reclamation and comprehensive restoration. This met fierce resistance from occupants, some of whom claimed centuries-long tenure passed down through generations. That same year, Podestà Da Persico met with Austrian Emperor Francis I to outline the monument’s needs, prompting the municipality to develop a work plan. The average level of the Bra was also lowered by about 70 cm, sloping gently from the Gran Guardia toward the Arena, and the Liston’s elevation was adjusted. This transformed the square before the Arena and the Arena itself: lowering the square restored the monument’s proportions, while demolishing the New Mercy Hospital, fourteen houses toward San Nicolò, and military furnaces abutting the municipal walls, alongside the Gran Guardia’s completion, lent greater space and coherence to the ensemble. after the creation of the central gardens in 1873. In 1866, Veneto joined the Kingdom of Italy, yet the Commission for Ornament persisted, renamed the Commission for Civic Ornament. In 1876, it was replaced by the Advisory Commission for Monument Conservation, established in each province of the kingdom. During this period, Count Antonio Pompei emerged as Verona’s most active figure in addressing restoration challenges, publishing essays between 1872 and 1877 aimed at reconstructing the amphitheatre’s original appearance. He also oversaw the restoration of the third tier of vomitoria, though uncertainties during the work prevented a full overhaul of the cavea. During World War II, the Superintendency for Monuments, led by architect Piero Gazzola, installed temporary buttresses inside and outside the wing to shield it from bombings. After the war, these were removed, and the wing was statically reinforced according to the design of engineer Riccardo Morandi: a post-tensioning system inserted 5 mm steel cables into holes drilled from above, aligned with the pillars, then filled with pressurized liquid cement. This reinforcement of the wing’s five vertical pillars occurred between 1953 and 1956. Further interventions from 1954 to 1960 cleared remaining arcades of warehouses and shops, demolishing non-original structures such as partition slabs, wooden stairs, internal tiled roofs, and counter-walls. In 1955, about fifty wooden gates were replaced with the current iron ones. From 1957 to 1959, the lower ramps of four internal staircases were restored, arcade floors were paved with pebbles, central stone walkways were laid in the ambulacra, underground conduits and the central well were cleaned, the entire outer ring was restored, and cracks between the cavea’s steps were sealed. In 1960, the old central pit cover was demolished, a new slab was built, and an iron railing was installed along the top step to prevent spectators from falling, despite some controversy. Since 1984, during the Christmas season, a steel comet star designed by architect Rinaldo Olivieri, 70 meters high and 82 meters long, was placed in Piazza Bra, with its tail resting inside the Arena. However, in January 2023, during routine dismantling, part of the star fell, causing irreparable damage to several steps; consequently, from Christmas 2024, only the star’s “head” has been installed, with its traditional tail replaced by light beams. Performances and opera Bull hunting remained popular into the early 1800s, even earning Napoleon Bonaparte’s approval. Later that year, the Arena served as a detention camp for Austrian prisoners, who dismantled the comedy stage for firewood. In November 1807, Napoleon, revisiting Verona, observed the start of another bull hunt. In May 1815, marking Verona’s return to the Austrian Empire and a visit by Archduke Heinrich Johann Bellegarde, viceroy of the Kingdom of Lombardy–Venetia, a bull hunt was held, followed by corn distribution to the poor—a common blend of entertainment and charity. In March 1816, to celebrate Emperor Francis I and his wife Maria Ludovika, bull hunting was replaced by a jockey race, preceded by corn distribution via carts sent to parishes. In the 1800s, equestrian competitions, cycling races, hot air balloon displays, acrobatic gymnastics, comedies, and tombola games were highly popular. Notable events included the 1838 tombola attended by Emperor Ferdinand I, highlighted by thousands of colorful umbrellas opening during a downpour, and the 1857 event with Emperor Franz Joseph, featuring a widely enjoyed tombola and greasy pole spectacle. Rossini’s music returned to the Arena on July 31, 1842, following the success of his Stabat Mater at the Teatro Filarmonico ten days earlier. The first opera season occurred in 1856, with performances of Il Casino di Campagna and La fanciulla di Gand by Pietro Lenotti, the first act of Gaetano Donizetti’s L’elisir d’amore, and Rossini’s The Barber of Seville. The Arena also served civic purposes, hosting the November 16, 1866, celebration of Veneto’s annexation to the Kingdom of Italy in the presence of Victor Emmanuel II. After 1866, as Verona remained a military city, the army grew closer to the populace, occasionally staging carousel spectacles inside. The first Sunday of June featured a fireworks display for the Albertine Statute celebration. From the early 1900s until the 1913 Aida that launched the Arena di Verona Festival, circus performances were the most successful shows. Since 1913, the Verona amphitheatre has become the world’s largest open-air opera venue, preserving its role as a space for popular entertainment while upholding the monument’s dignity. It has also occasionally hosted gladiators, wild beasts, and Christian persecutions for historical film productions. Other events performing on the Arena stage in 2017. In music, the Arena of Verona has historically hosted the finals of the Festivalbar, and since 2017, it has been the venue for the annual Power Hits Estate, an awards event organized by RTL 102.5. It has also welcomed numerous pop concerts, leveraging the prestige of this unique open-air theatre, featuring a wide array of Italian and international artists. Zucchero Fornaciari holds the record for fourteen consecutive performances. The Verona amphitheatre hosted the final of the 1970 edition of the television program Games Without Borders. In sports, the Arena has served as the finish line for the final stage of the Giro d'Italia in the 1981, 1984, 2010, 2019, and 2022 editions. In May 1988, at the twilight of the Cold War, it hosted a historic friendly volleyball match between the men's national teams of the United States and the Soviet Union. In August 2023, it welcomed the opening match of the 2023 Women’s European Volleyball Championship between Italy and Romania. In 2026, the Arena hosted the closing ceremony of the Winter Olympics and the opening ceremony of the Winter Paralympics. Preparations for both events included renovations to improve safety and accessibility. == The amphitheatre in its urban context ==
The amphitheatre in its urban context
The Verona amphitheatre was constructed approximately 70–80 meters from the Republican city walls, facing the southern corner of the city’s fortifications. This positioning indicates it was not part of the original city plan, much like the Theatrum Veronense. The mid-1st century BC, when the city was refounded within the Adige’s bend, was a time of civil wars, making it impractical to build such a massive structure near the walls, which would have compromised the defensive system. Thus, it is deduced that the amphitheatre was erected during a period of peace, likely coinciding with the onset of the imperial era. Supporting this, in the 3rd century, amid the crisis, military anarchy, and barbarian invasions, Emperor Gallienus deemed it necessary to build a new wall incorporating the Arena. Its location outside the walls suggests that the city’s interior was nearly fully developed. This placement also necessitated a rethinking of road networks, as the amphitheatre drew tens of thousands from the city, countryside, and nearby towns, potentially overwhelming access gates, notably, the Via Postumia, entering at Porta Borsari, was already very busy. Consequently, Porta Leoni and Porta Borsari were refurbished, and two smaller exits were likely added near the amphitheatre. Its orientation further underscores its connection to the city despite its later construction: the major axis aligns with the urban grid’s cardines, and the minor axis parallels the decumani. This alignment facilitated linking the amphitheatre’s sewers to the city’s system. Notably, its external position eased access from the countryside and other cities. Spectacles, held infrequently due to their high cost, naturally attracted audiences from beyond Verona. == Inscriptions ==
Inscriptions
Several inscriptions found near the amphitheatre, given its size, undoubtedly pertain to it. One, indecipherable, reads CON, while another appears to be [...] ET DEDIT. A complete inscription states: It records that a wealthy woman, in her son’s name, bequeathed funds to erect a statue of Diana, stage a hunting spectacle (venatio) in the Arena, and install salientes—possibly water conduits or fountains—within the amphitheatre. Additionally, an original Arena step was found, inscribed with a seat number: I / LOC(US) IIII, LIN(EA) I, meaning wedge one, step four, seat one. == Description ==
Description
The amphitheatre’s foundational layout is an ellipse forming the arena (the central performance space), likely traced on the ground at the project’s outset. The outer perimeter was derived by drawing a concentric line around this ellipse. This base ellipse was constructed using four circles: two smaller ones (along the major axis) derived by dividing the semi-major axis into five 25-foot segments, with two segments forming the radius at the axis’s ends, and a larger curve with a seven-part, 25-foot radius centered at the outer extension’s end. The arena measures 75.68 m x 44.43 m (250 x 150 Roman feet), a round figure reflecting the simplicity of the base module, with a 5:3 ratio between the major and minor axes. The cavea spans 39.40 m (125 feet), while the amphitheatre’s maximum dimensions (major x minor axis) are 152.43 m x 123.23 m (520 x 420 Roman feet). These dimensions rank the Arena eighth among Roman amphitheatres and fourth in Italy, following the Colosseum, the Campanian Amphitheatre, and the Amphitheatre of Milan. The amphitheatre was built on a slight artificial elevation (now below street level), with foundations of an opus caementicium plate. A 1.60 m height difference exists between the outermost ring and the podium base. Arches rest on two semi-capitals, terminating on the pilaster just above its midpoint. Above the Tuscan capitals, a band of blocks bears the entrance numbers (LXIV to LXVII survive on the Ala, with others scattered around), followed by another identical band supporting the upper cornice. With 72 arches and entrances, the numbering—starting with I at the western entrance—suggests that sector’s prominence, proceeding counterclockwise. The second tier mirrors the first, save for its reduced height. The third tier varies slightly: Tuscan capitals persist without pilasters, and the cornice comprises a entablature with a frieze and additional cornice. Inside, brackets once supported portico beams, not the velarium, Above the outermost gallery stood another of equal size, supporting the cavea’s portico. These three concentric galleries divided the structure into four zones. From the arena to the first gallery lies the first tier of seating, the maenianum. The first annular corridor, the praecinctio, rested on the first gallery’s vault, separating the second seating tier between the first and second galleries. Above the second gallery’s vault was the second annular corridor, dividing the second and third tiers. Here, the 64 vomitoria staircases become more intricate and begin intersecting. A third annular corridor separated the third and fourth tiers, followed by a portico aligned with the outermost gallery, its roof supported by a colonnade facing the cavea and brackets (still visible on the Ala) on the outer side. '' of the Arena. The grandest entrance, to the west toward Porta Borsari and the Via Postumia, features a central vault twice the height of others, reaching beneath the cavea’s tiers. The western sector was likely the most significant, Capacity '' of the Verona amphitheatre might have been structured. In the early 1st century, Verona was a major city, comparable to Mediolanum, strategically positioned at the plains’ edge of the Via Claudia Augusta, following the Adige to the Brenner Pass and Raetia. These factors influenced the amphitheatre’s size, accounting for Verona’s substantial population, its countryside, and likely nearby centers such as Vicetia and Brixia, which lacked amphitheatres. Recent estimates for summer performances put the arena's capacity at , though the stage occupies about a third of the seats, and the upper portico is gone. Thus, in Roman times, it likely held around spectators. == Legends ==
Legends
Over time, legends have emerged about the Arena’s origins. In the Middle Ages, one story claims that a Veronese nobleman, condemned to death for a heinous crime, promised the city’s leaders he would build a vast edifice overnight to house all citizens and host spectacles, bargaining his soul with the devil to complete it between the evening and morning Hail Marys. That night, all the devils of Hell converged on Verona, but the nobleman repented, praying to the Holy Virgin, who granted a miracle: the sun came up two hours earlier. In the morning, at the first note of the Hail Mary, the demons all sank back into the ground, leaving the building, though well underway, incomplete: this is said to be the origin of the Ala. Other medieval legends attributed its construction to the Devil because of its immense size, considered impossible to build using human hands. Additional tales credited King Theodoric, likely because he restored it and held numerous spectacles there. == See also ==
Filmography
Verona Romana - Oltre il tempo, directed by Marcello Peres and Nicola Tagliabue (2015) == Notes ==
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