Chaves, Portugal

, patron of Aquae Flaviae of the Castle of Chaves Artefacts discovered in the region of Chaves identify the earliest settlement of humans dating back to the Paleolithic. Remnants discovered in Mairos, Pastoria and São Lourenço, those associated with transient proto-historic settlements and castros, show a human presence in the Alto Tâmega dating to the Chalcolithic. promoted the baths (with its warm medicinal waters); exploited local mines and alluvial deposits and other natural resources. Its importance led to the urban nucleus being elevated to the status of municipality in 79 AD, during the reign of the first Flavian Caesar, Titus Flavius Caesar Vespasianus Augustus. Rome's hegemony lasted until the 3rd century, when, successively, the proto-Germanic tribes of the Suebi and Visigoths as well as the Alani colonized the imperial settlements of Chaves. Barbarian dominion lasted until the Moors invaded from North Africa, defeating the Visigoth King Roderic at the beginning of the 8th century. The area around Chaves surrendered to invading Islamic forces at around 714-716, forcing many resisting Christians to escape from Chaves into the mountains in the northwest. The city was conquered by Alfonso I of Asturias in 773, alongside Braga, Porto and Lamego, and repopulated in 868 by Alfonso III of Asturias. Battles between the Christians and Muslim forces then continued until the 11th century, when Alfonso V of León permanently reconquered Coimbra, establishing a firm buffer-zone to the south. The Leonese fought battles in Barcelos, Braga and Guimarães, where they defeated Portuguese forces, before retiring to Galicia with their spoils. This was likely a self-serving decision on Fernando's part, as he was fearful that Leonese barons would support Sancho against him. Alfonso IX continued to occupy Chaves as a method of ensuring his wife, Teresa, would be able to enjoy her properties in Portugal. Yet, many nobles refused to break their oaths of fealty to Beatrice (including in Chaves), necessitating John's travel to Porto in force and scaring the nobles of Chaves and Bragança into capitulating. French forces invaded and attacked in 1807, during the Siege of Chaves, part of the Peninsular Wars. On 7 March 1808, Soult's forces invaded northern Portugal to remove British forces from Iberia. Brigadier Francisco Silveira was charged with the defense of Chaves, but his 6000 men were unable to support its defense, and quickly abandoned the castle. An attempt to defend Chaves by Francisco Pizarro was futile, and the city surrendered to French forces shortly after the engagement. With too many troops to imprison Soult released many under oath, in order to continue the attack on the main forces who had retreated to the south. On 12 March 1929, the town of Chaves was elevated to the category of city. ==Geography==

Physical geography Chaves is in the extreme north of Portugal, bounded on the north by Galicia (Spain), on the east by the municipalities of Vinhais and Valpaços, on the south by the municipality of Vila Pouca de Aguiar and on the west by the municipalities of Montalegre and Boticas. Chaves is one of the six municipalities of the Alto Tâmega, situated in the district of Vila Real, strategically positioned in the northwest of the Iberian peninsula and accessed by important international highways. The region is dominated by the Quaternary Chaves sedimentary basin, a graben aligned on a north-northeast to south-southwest orientation bounded by the Hercynian massif and metamorphic schistose formations. Mixed with the schistose complex, there are bands of graphitic slates, mainly in the southern part of the urbanized area of Chaves and south-east of Faiões. The Chaves graben was formed by the relative motion of the block with different types of sediments being settled. The most recent formations are a sedimentary series (lacustrine, alluvial, colluvial, detritic, etc.) with variable thickness that had their origin during the Miocene. Two main faults cross and influence the tectonic activities: the north-northeast by south-southeast Chaves-Verin Fault and a fault system crossing near Faiões and Santo Estêvão. Intense neotectonic activity reactivated these old fractures, originating in a complex pattern of faults in the sedimentary basin. Thermal springs Mineral waters are the clearest evidence of these recent tectonic fractures. The Penacova-Régua-Verín Fault, is an active formation that extends longitudinally for 500 kilometres, intermingled with other faults resulting in subterranean hydrology. The thermal springs, principally those in Campilho and Salus Vidago (in Vila de Vidago) have developed from this mixture of circumstances. With temperatures reaching , these mineral springs (bicarbonates, sodium, silicates and fluoride) in the vicinity of the city of Chaves, have provided a potential source of income. The hot springs () were known since the Roman period, when the town was Aquae Flaviae; the Waters of Flavius were an important social gathering point, but fell into disuse as the town was slowly abandoned by attacks. The spas belong to a vast area of hydrothermal springs that stretch from Verín (in Galicia) to Pedras Salgadas, 30 km from Chaves (on the road to Vila Real). Despite its vastness and abundance of water, this thermal system is little utilized; of the nine groups of thermal springs there are only adequate installations in four of them: Chaves, Carvalhelhos, Vidago, Pedras Salgadas, and Verín. The waters of the spring, that are captured in three springs within Chaves, have mean temperatures of (the hottest bicarbonate waters in Europe). The modern spa industry in Chaves use these waters for numerous treatments, including stomach, liver, intestinal, and kidney ailments, through oral ingestion. Many small guesthouses in the old part of the town are dependent on the influx of these visitors. The thermal spas are located between the castle and the river, in front of a large area of grass-covered park with playgrounds and tennis courts. Climate Chaves has a Mediterranean climate (Köppen: Csa) with continental and oceanic influences. The mountains between the Minho region and Trás-os-Montes serve as a climatic barrier and lessen rainfall closer to the interior. Places such as the Peneda-Gerês National Park, only away, can have up to five times the amount of precipitation Chaves gets in a year. Winters can be cold; January highs rarely surpass and lows are often below zero (54 days per year on average). Fog often hovers over the valley during the winter, usually lifting by midday, but on rare occasions can last for days, and can potentiate the development of rime ice. Cold fronts in the winter can often cause daytime temperatures to drop below . Snow is infrequent, especially in recent years, although the surrounding hills often receive a dusting. Temperatures in July and August frequently pass with nighttime temperatures dropping to . Summer brush fires can often make this season unpleasant although in recent years they have diminished, perhaps because most of the forest cover has been burnt. Chaves is one of the few places in Portugal with a dry March. The coldest temperature ever recorded in Chaves was on 22 January 1983. ==Climate==

{{Weather box Human geography Government is administered by the Municipal Chamber of Chaves (), while locally the municipality is divided into the following parishes (freguesias): • Águas Frias • Anelhe • Bustelo • Calvão e Soutelinho da Raia • Cimo de Vila da Castanheira • Curalha • Eiras, São Julião de Montenegro e Cela • Ervededo • Faiões • Lama de Arcos • Loivos e Póvoa de Agrações • Maços • Madalena e Samaiões • Mairos • Moreiras • Nogueira da Montanha • Oura • Outeiro Seco • Paradela • Planalto de Monforte (Oucidres e Borbadela) • Redondelo • Sanfins • Santa Cruz-Trindade e Sanjurge • Santa Leocádia • Santa Maria Maior • Santo António de Monforte • Santo Estêvão • São Pedro de Agostém • São Vicente • Soutelo e Seara Velha • Travancas e Roriz • Tronco • Vala de Anta • Vidago, Arcossó, Selhariz e Vilarinho das Paranheiras • Vila Verde da Raia • Vilar de Nantes • Vilarelho da Raia • Vilas Boas • Vilela do Tâmega • Vilela Seca Demographics In the past 127 years, the municipality has seen a 29% increase in local population (from 31815 in 1864 to 40940 in 1991). This was not a gradual nor homogeneous increase, since there were periods of extreme growth or rapid decline. During the 20th century, growth after 1920 is notably influenced by the restriction of trans-Atlantic emigration, just like after 1991, the population decreases were associated with liberal emigration policies as a result of the Maastricht Treaty. The parish populations have seen fluctuations, although the most recent census show that 31 of these agglomerations had population levels in 1991 much lower than their first tabulation. Further, analysis of the data identifies that the municipal increase (29%) was primarily from the more urbanized parishes, while peripheral rural/mountainous parishes show net decreases. Many of the local people have emigrated to settlements in northern Europe in addition to France, but commonly return or visit their villages for weddings or village festivals. Many residents of Chaves have also immigrated to Connecticut and New Jersey in the United States. Chaves has been isolated from the coastal urban centres and has suffered from a lack of convenient road communications. Recently, a new four-lane highway (A24) was opened to traffic. It links Chaves to Vila Real, and to the border with Spain. In Vila Pouca de Aguiar the highway also connects with the A7 that leads to Porto. City The population of the city encompasses 17,535 residents in the parishes of Santa Cruz-Trinidade, Madalena, and Santa Maria Maior: these parishes form the urbanized population of the city of Chaves. Although many of the older buildings outside the historical walls were demolished to make way for apartment blocks, the medieval quarter with its Rua Direita and Rua de Santo António have been declared historic zones. In these areas there are narrow multi-story dwellings, whose origin has been limited by the walled city. Historically, the old quarter was the city, and few buildings were located outside its walls, since its frontier location and the imminent risk of invasion impeded the construction of homes outside the barriers. Consequently, space was limited and land primarily used for multi-purpose dwellings, resulting in very narrow streets and multi-story structures (with balconies that extend over the streets and protected the citizenry). Many of the lower floors were occupied by shops or small businesses, while the residents lived in the upper stories. Remnants of these verandas are still visible in the medieval quarter. The walled city was at the forefront of the political turmoils during the Reconquista, transited by armies and sacked by enemies. Chaves was built, destroyed, and rebuilt several times by either faction (Christian and Muslim), when they occupied the castle (it is likely that for some periods the town was completely abandoned). In 1253, Afonso III supported the reconstruction of the castle. By 1258, Chaves was granted the status of a vila (or town). While the walls were eventually rebuilt, the advent of artillery would make the castle's fortifications obsolete, and its importance waned, while the historical battlements fell into ruins. On 15 November 2009 an extensive green space on the east side of the Tâmega River, between the Engenheiro Carmona Bridge and the Public Gardens, was opened to the public. It is an area with playgrounds, pedestrian and cycling paths, a beach football pitch, and a large grassy area. A modern pedestrian bridge was constructed to link the park and recreational area with the hot springs on the west bank of the river. At the same time cycling and walking paths were built on both banks of the river extending north for several kilometers. The pedestrian bridge, which is approximately 90 ft, is Chave's tallest and most expensive bridge. ==Economy==

Agriculture and services are still the main sources of income. The traditional prosperity of Chaves comes, mainly, from a highly fertile plain, nine kilometres long and three to five wide, referred to as the"veiga". Since the land can be irrigated with canals there is intensive farming of potatoes, corn, rye, hay, while plots of vegetables are also commonplace in the local market. The main canal begins near Vila Verde da Raia and crosses the valley on the right bank of the Tâmega as far as Nantes. On the whole, the land is made up of small plots that are rarely economically viable. There is some dairy farming, and a milk production unit on the south side of town, but few cows can be seen in the valley. In general most of the farmers are of retirement age and farming is often pursued more as a hobby than as a profession. In addition to agriculture there are some small industries producing glass, tiles, and food products. Like Vila Pouca de Aguiar, located thirty kilometres south, this is a land of granite; there are several granite extraction and finishing industries located in Chaves, in addition to three brickworks, located on the south side of the city. Further, two mineral water plants, located in Vidago, belong to the municipality. Transportation It is serviced by A24 motorway, which links Chaves with the south, to Viseu, Coimbra and Figueira da Foz, connecting to Vila Pouca de Aguiar by the A7 (which acts as the gateway to the southern Trás-os-Montes), and the N103 from Bragança to Braga. Chaves is located 415 kilometres from Lisbon, 105 kilometres from Porto and just 55 kilometres from the district capital, Vila Real. Between 1921 and 1990 Chaves was the northern terminus station of the Corgo line, a narrow gauge railway line which linked Chaves with Vila Real and Regua (the junction station for main line trains to Porto). The section between Chaves and Vila Real closed in 1990 and the remainder of the line closed in 2009. Chaves Airport, a small, single runway airport for light aircraft, also serves the town. ==Architecture==

The town of Chaves is built upon a long military history, that includes many fortifications or vestiges of battlements. Apart from the medieval castle and 17th century forts (Forte de São Francisco andForte de São Neutel), two medieval fortifications still exist: Santo Estêvão Tower (in the village of the same name north of Chaves) and Monforte Castle (in the hills east of the town). Prehistoric • Bulideira Stone () • Castro of Alto do Vamba () • Castro of Curalha () • Castro of Muradal () • Castro of Outeiro dos Mouros () • Castro of Santiago do Monte () • Castro of Vale de Lagares () • Prehistoric Rock-Art Site of Bustelo () • Prehistoric Rock-Art Site of Eiras () • Prehistoric Rock-Art Site of Outeiro Machado () Civic • Agrarian School of Alves Teixeira () • Agricultural Cooperative of Chaves () • Agricultural School of Chaves () • Bridge of Arco () • Bridge of Erdevedo () • Bridge of Guilherme () • Bridge of Meirinho () • Bridge of Missa () • Bridge of Ribela () • Bridge of Oura () • Bridge of Santiago () • Bridge of Trajan (), a symbol of Chaves, the bridge was constructed during the reign of Emperors Vespasian and Trajan to span the Tâmega River and connect the Roman provincial towns of Astorga and Bracara Augusta, identifiable by columns, that identify the bridge and its dedication to Emperor; • Caixa Geral de Depósitos () • Cine-Theatre of Chaves () • Estate of Macieira em Casas Novas () • Forest Administration of Chaves () • Frontier Station of Vila Verde da Raia () • Fountain of Águas da Facha () • Fountain of Casa dos Montes () • Fountain of Castelões () • Fountain of Couto () • Fountain of Cruzeiro () • Fountain of Curalha () • Fountain of Lagoinha () • Fountain of Mina () • Fountain of Olmo () • Fountain of Povo de Castelões () • Fountain of Quinta de Humberto Teixeira () • Fountain of Santo António de Monforte () • Fountain of Santa Marinha () • Fountain of Vila Frade () • Hospital of the Santa Casa da Misericóridia () • Hospital of São João de Deus (), also known as the Church of Madalena, this 18th-century building was built during the reign of King John VI (his coat-of-arms appears on the main door), as a chapel and military hospital, but includes many Neoclassic and Baroque elements (including a high facade). • Hotel-Palace of Vidago () • Kiln of Povo de Castelões () • Markers of Ervededo () • Manorhouse of Azeredo () • Manorhouse of the Braganzas () • Manorhouse of the Machados () • Manorhouse of the Montalvões () • Manorhouse of the Viscounts of Rosário () • Municipal Council of Chaves () • Municipal Council of Ervededo () • Municipal Stadium Eng. Manuel Branco Teixeira () • Palace of the Dukes of Braganza () • Pillory of Chaves () • Pillory of Erdevedo () • Pillory of Monforte () • Poldrado da Curalha • Pombal de Vila de Frade • Primary School Count Ferreira Chaves () • Primary School of Águas Ferias () • Primary School of Casas dos Montes () • Primary School of Casas Novas () • Primary School of Faiões () • Primary School of Loivos () • Primary School of Outeiro Jusão () • Primary School of Outeiro Seco () • Primary School of Santo António de Monforte () • Primary School of São Estêvão () • Primary School of São Lourenço () • Primary School of Selhariz () • Primary School of Vilar de Nantes () • Primary School of Vilarinho de Paranheiros () • Primary School of Vilela do Tâmega () • Railway Bridge of Tâmega () • Railway Station of Chaves () • Railway Station of Tâmega () • Railway Station of Vidago () • Residence of Abade de Baçal () • Residence of Bastos () • Residence of Meio do Povo () • Residence of Quinta da Mata () • Residence of Vilar de Nantes () • Roman Thermal Spa of Chaves () • Secondary School Dr. Júlio Dinis () • Watermills of Curalha () Military • Castle of Chaves (), classified as a Monumento Nacional since 22 March 1938, the 14th century castle was constructed in the reign of King D. Dinis, but today only the keep tower remains; • Castle of Ervededo () • Castle of Mau Vizinho () • Castle of Monforte de Rio Livre () • Castle of Santo Estêvão () • Fort of São Francisco (), plans for a hill fort had persisted since the Middle Ages, but this fort was only constructed following the Portuguese Restoration War, and saw service during the Napoleonic Invasion and Liberal Wars; • Fort of São Neutel (), built on a northern hill for a perceived possible Spanish invasion, during the Portuguese Restoration War, the fort was connected to the defensive line of Chaves. Religious In addition to the old Church of São Francisco (which for three centuries was resting place of the first Duke of Braganza), there are other buildings which have been artistically converted into hotel rooms, and which served the army as barracks for many years. • Chapel of Espírito Santo () • Chapel of Granjinha () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Brotas () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Conceição () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora das Dores () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Encarnação () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Lapa () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Loreto () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Penha () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Piedade () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Pópulo () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Rosário () • Chapel of Nossa Senhora do Rosário de Sanjurg() • Chapel of Pai Mogo () • Chapel of Santa Catarina () • Chapel of Santa Marinha () • Chapel of Santa Marta () • Chapel of Santo António () • Chapel of Santiago () • Chapel of São Bartolomeu () • Chapel of São Bento () • Chapel of São Bernardino () • Chapel of São Geraldo () • Chapel of São João Baptista () • Chapel of São Martinho () • Chapel of São Miguel () • Chapel of São Nicolau () • Chapel of São Roque () • Chapel of São Sebastião () • Chapel of São Simão () • Chapel of São Tiago () • Chapel of Senhor dos Aflitos () • Chapel of Senhor do Bom Caminho () • Chapel of Senhor do Calvário () • Chapel of Senhor dos Desamparados () • Chapel of Senhor dos Passos () • Chapel of Senhora de Livração () • Chapel of Senhora de Portela () • Church of Castelões () • Church of the Divino Salvador () • Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção () • Church of Nossa Senhora da Assunção () • Church of Nossa Senhora da Azinheira () • Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição () • Church of Nossa Senhora da Conceição () • Church of Nossa Senhora da Expectações () • Church of Nossa Senhora da Expectações () • Church of Nossa Senhora da Natividade () • Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves () • Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves () • Church of Nossa Senhora das Neves () • Church of the Sagrada Família () • Church of the Santa Casa da Misericórida (), this 17th-century Baroque church, was the main chapel of the Dukes of Bragança, that included four Greek columns and mythological sculptures, surmounted by an image of Nossa Senhora da Misericórdia (), while the interior was covered in 18th century blue-and-white azulejo that depicted biblical scenes, while the wooden ceiling has a scene of the Visitation, painted by Jerónimo Rocha Braga (1743). • Church of Santo André () • Church of Santo André () • Church of Santo António () • Church of Santo António () • Church of Santa Clara () • Church of Santo Estêvão () • Church of Santa Eulália () • Church of Santa Leocádia () • Church of Santa Luzia () • Church of Santa Maria () • Church of Santa Maria () • Church of Santa Maria () • Church of Santa Maria Maior (), the 12th century Romanesque parochial church and former-cathedral (decommissioned when the bishopric was moved to Vila Real and abandoned after 716 A.D. during the Moorish invasion), was renovated in the 16th century, but the three nave church conserves many of the sturdy solid granite features and austere facade on the exterior and interior (such as the cylindrical columns supporting eight arches, a stone-ribbed dome covering the main chapel, stained glass and an unpainted oak ceiling). • Church of Santa Marta () • Church of Santa Marta () • Church of Santiago () • Church of São Bartolomeu () • Church of São Bartolomeu () • Church of São Francisco () • Church of São Gonçalo () • Church of São Geraldo () • Church of São João Baptista () • Church of São Julião () • Church of São Martinho () • Church of São Miguel ()* Church of São Pedro () • Church of São Pedro de Sanfins () • Church of São Tiago () • Church of São Tiago () • Church of São Tiago () • Church of São Tomé () • Church of São Vicente () • Convent of São Francisco () • Cross of Calvão () • Cross of Eiras () • Cross of Lugar do Couto () • Cross of Nossa Senhora da Piedade () • Cross of Outeiro Seco () • Cross of Sanjurge () • Cross of São Bento () • Cross of São Sebastião () • Cross of Senhora da Piedade () • Cross of Senhora da Portela () • Cross of Vidago () • Cross of Vilela Seca () • Monastery of Nossa Senhora da Conceição () • Sanctuary of Alto do Coto () • Sanctuary of Nossa Senhora da Aparecida (), constructed on the site of an 1833 Marian apparition, when three shepherd children (similar to the events in Fátima, Portugal) witnessed the Virgin Mary. • Sanctuary of São Caetano (), constructed in honour of Saint Cajetan (a Catholic Theatine orator from the Counter Reformation), it is the centre of annual (7 August) celebrations, when seven images of the saint are carried in religious processions. • Sanctuary of Senhora de Engaranho (), a sanctuary dedicated to an uncommon invocation to the image of Mary (responsible for aiding those with diseased-, crooked-/crossed-legs, or afflictions associated with walking, such as rickets), families with young children would visit the sanctuary and bathe their children in a carved granite stone with "miraculous waters". In addition to chapel to Our Lady of Necessities there are smaller chapels dedicated to St. Catejan, St. Blais and St. Benedict, and religious cross. ==Notable citizens==

• João Gonçalves da Costa, (PT Wiki) (1720–1820), an explorer and conquistador, he went to Brazil aged 16, conquering lands in the Sertão da Ressaca, (PT Wiki), fighting local native tribes, and founding the village of Vitória da Conquista, in the state of Bahia; • Rodrigo de Sousa Coutinho, 1st Count of Linhares (1755–1812) a nobleman and politician. • Inácio Luís Madeira de Melo (1775–1833) a military officer, served in the office of Governor of Arms, and led Portuguese troops based in Salvador, Bahia • Agostinho de Sousa Pinto de Barros Cachapuz, (PT Wiki) (1786–1864), an officer during the Peninsular Wars and Liberal Wars, decorated for his defence of legitimist ideals; • José Celestino da Silva (1849–1911) an Army officer, colonial administrator and governor of the colony of Portuguese Timor 1894-1908. • Manuel Maria Coelho (1857–1943) a military officer during the Portuguese First Republic. He became Prime Minister in 1921 after the Noite Sangrenta (Bloody Night) • António Granjo (1881 – Lisbon, 1921), a lawyer and politician, assassinated as Minister of the Interior, during the infamous Noite Sangrenta (Bloody Night); • Fernando de Quintanilha e Mendonça Dias (1898-1992) member of the Portuguese Navy and a political and colonial administrator during the Estado Novo. Minister of the Navy from 1958 to 1968 and created the Hydrographic Institute. • Francisco da Costa Gomes, ComTE, GOA (Chaves; 1914–Lisbon 2001) a military officer, politician, the 15th President of the Portuguese Republic (the second after the Carnation Revolution), known for his brokered military agreement in Portuguese West Africa, and his refusal to swear public loyalty to the President of the Council of Ministers Marcello Caetano; • Gentil de Valadares, (PT Wiki) (1916–Alvor 2006), a poet, known as the poet traitor during the Estado Novo regime for his work Coração against the Colonial Wars, and imprisoned by the PIDE (secret police); • Mário Carneiro, (PT Wiki) (1917– 2008), a surgeon and director of the Caldas de Chaves; promoted a modern thermal park system in the Alto Tâmega region, that includes the Chaves spa; • Nadir Afonso, GOSE (1920–2013) a geometric abstractionist painter, formally trained in architecture, became a pioneer in the Kinetic art movement; • António Marto (born 1947) a prelate of the Catholic Church, Bishop of Leiria-Fátima from 2006 to 2022, became a cardinal in 2018. • Fernando Pereira (1950–1985), freelance photographer and Greenpeace activist, killed when French intelligence (DGSE) detonated a bomb and sank the Rainbow Warrior ship. Sport • Carlos Manuel Pereira Pinto (born 1960) known as Adão, is a Portuguese former footballer with 410 club caps and 11 for Portugal • Fernando Aguiar (born 1972) a Canadian former soccer player with 395 club caps and 13 for Canada • Vítor Castanheira (born 1977) a retired footballer with 351 club caps • João Alves (born 1980) a retired footballer with 361 club caps and 3 for Portugal • João Fernandes (born 1983) a footballer with about 350 club caps. ==See also==