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Pago Pago, American Samoa

Pago Pago is the capital of American Samoa. It is in Maoputasi County on Tutuila, the main island of American Samoa.

Etymology and pronunciation
The origin of the name Pago Pago is uncertain. One hypothesis suggests that it is derived from the Samoan language, where it is interpreted to mean "place of prayer." The letter "g" in Samoan sounds like "ng"; thus Pago Pago is pronounced "pahngo pahngo." An early name for Pago Pago was Long Bay (Samoan: O le Fagaloa), which was a name used by the first permanent inhabitants to settle in the Pago Pago area. It was also called O le Maputasi ("The Single Chief's House") in compliment to the Mauga, who lived at Gagamoe in Pago Pago and was the senior to all the other chiefs in the area. == History ==
History
Pago Pago was first settled 4,000 years ago. The area was initially settled by Polynesian navigators, who established a vibrant community rooted in agriculture, fishing, and the distinct cultural practices of Samoan society. The ancient people of Tutuila produced clay pottery known as Samoan Plainware. The majority of these open bowls had plain designs and featured rounded bases. Such pottery has been retrieved from sites in Pago Pago, including at Vaipito. The production of such pottery ceased approximately 1500 years ago. A site in the Vaipito Valley has also revealed more substantial elements, such as constructions made from rocks, like house foundations and terraces (lau mafola). Ceramic findings have been retrieved at Vaipito, an inland area within Pago Pago village. A deposit here is thought to be an old hill-slope below a living area where people threw away their waste. Numerous large ceramic pieces have been retrieved here. The layer with the ceramics dates back to the time between 350 BCE and 10 CE. Another site, Fo’isia, is located approximately 100 meters from Vaipito, at the same elevation inland in Pago Pago. During sewer line construction, the American Samoa Power Authority noticed many broken pieces of clay pottery. Five dates associated with the ceramics indicate a time range between 370 BCE and 130 CE. Tongan rule The island of Tutuila was part of the Tuʻi Tonga Empire from the invasion around 950 CE to when Tongans were expelled in 1250. According to Samoan folklore, a warrior from Pago Pago, Fua’au, is associated with driving the Tongans out of Tutuila. According to the legend, Fua’au's fiancé, Tauoloasi’i, was kidnapped and taken to Tonga while sleeping on an exquisite mat known as Moeilefuefue. Filled with anger at the loss of his fiancé and the renowned mat, Fua’au rallied the Tutuilans, encouraging them to revolt against the Tongan rule imposed by Lautivunia. During the period of Tongan rule, political opponents and defeated Samoan warriors were exiled to Pago Pago. The surrounding settlements effectively functioned as a Samoan penal colony. In response to the oppression, the Samoans, under the leadership of paramount chief Malietoa, eventually revolted against their Tongan rulers. According to one source, it was Chief Fua’autoa of Pago Pago who successfully expelled the Tongans from Pago Pago. Old Pago Pago Until 1722, Pago Pago, like several other villages in American Samoa such as Fagasā and Vatia, existed as a ridge-top settlement. This upland community, now part of the National Park of American Samoa, was strategically situated to provide safety during a period marked by inter-island conflicts involving Samoa, Fiji, Tahiti, and Tonga. The elevated location offered protection from coastal raids, as attackers arriving by boat posed a significant threat to shoreline settlements. By 1772, the majority of families had relocated from the highlands to the coast, establishing new homes near the shoreline. However, oral histories indicate that a few households continued to reside or farm in the upland areas into the late 19th century. Archeological findings at the site of Old Pago Pago include ancient rock walls, building foundations, and graves. Some of these graves are believed to belong to chiefs or ceremonial figures, such as a taupou (a ceremonial maiden), with legends suggesting one may have been interred in a bonito boat. The remnants of Old Pago Pago are accessible via the Mount ‘Alava Trailhead at Fagasā Pass, just west of Vaipito Valley. When Westerners first visited Tutuila, the Mauga was the leading matai (chief) of Pago Pago. 19th century In 1791, Captain Edward Edwards, leading the British warship HMS Pandora in the pursuit of the Bounty mutineers, arrived at Pago Pago Harbor. During their search, the crew stumbled upon a French military uniform belonging to one of Pérouse’s men, who had been killed at Aʻasu in 1787. In 1824, Otto von Kotzebue is believed to have discovered the entrance to Pago Pago Harbor, according to one source. In 1830, a man named Norval "Salemi" from Massachusetts, lived in Pago Pago as part of High Chief Mauga’s household. Driven by a desire to share his faith, he translated portions of the Church of England Prayer Book into Samoan language and counted the Mauga of Pago Pago among his converts. In 1836, the English whaler Elizabeth, captained by Cuthbert, became the first European vessel to enter Pago Pago Harbor. Captain Cuthbert is credited with ‘discovering’ Pago Pago and naming it Cuthbert Harbor. In the 1830s, two missionaries were assigned to Tutuila Island: Reverend Archibald W. Murray and his wife to Pago Pago and Reverend Barnden to Leone. They landed at Fagasa Bay and hiked over the hill to the High Chief Mauga in Pago Pago. Mauga welcomed the missionaries and gave them support. RMS later moved to Pago Pago, becoming the second ship to enter Pago Pago Harbor. In 1834, Matthew Hunkin arrived in Pago Pago and served as a companion to Archibald Murray, both residing under the patronage of High Chief Mauga. Together, they conducted visits to villages situated along the eastern end of Tutuila. Subsequently, both men relocated to Leone, where Murray undertook preparations to establish the Mission Institute for Pacific Islanders at Fagatele, situated on the outskirts of Leone. Beginning in 1836, whaling vessels started calling at Pago Pago Harbor, quickly transforming it into a favored stopover. Crews found it to be a secure place to rest, take on supplies, and carry out repairs. As of 1866, whalers no longer visited the Samoan Islands as whaling activities had shifted farther north. In 1837, Tutuila’s chiefs and Captain Charles Bethune of H.M.S. Conway reached an agreement on Pago Pago’s first documented commercial port regulations, finalized on December 27 of that year. On May 9, 1838, the London Missionary Society established a church in Pago Pago. In 1839, the Samoan Islands experienced its first recorded epidemic, which resulted in the death of High Chief Mauga of Pago Pago. After his passing, Manuma assumed the title. After the death of his stepbrother Pomale, Manuma provoked controversy within the Christian community by eloping with Pomale's widow. As a result, the aiga deposed him from his position. Nevertheless, Manuma was later reinstated, and he presided as the Mauga of Pago Pago until his death in 1849. As early as 1839, American interest was generated for the Pago Pago area when Commander Charles Wilkes, head of the United States Exploring Expedition, surveyed Pago Pago Harbor and the island. Wilkes' favorable report attracted so much interest that the U.S. Navy began planning a move to the Pago Pago area. During his time in Pago Pago, Wilkes negotiated a set of "Commercial Regulations" with the matais of Pago Pago under the leadership of Paramount Ali'i Mauga. Wilkes' treaty was never ratified, but captains and Samoan leaders operated by it. Rumors of possible annexation by Britain or Germany were taken seriously by the U.S., and the U.S. Secretary of State Hamilton Fish sent Colonel Albert Steinberger to negotiate with Samoan chiefs on behalf of American interests. American interest in Pago Pago was also a result of Tutuila's central position in one of the world's richest whaling grounds. On August 8, 1844, Archibald Wright Murray wrote a letter recounting how the Tutuilans, at one point, prepared to vacate their settlements and negotiate with the French while taking refuge in the highlands. Recognizing Pago Pago Harbor as the island’s most significant lure for European powers, they planned to cede it to France in return for a pledge safeguarding Tutuila’s independence. In 1868 the Polynesian Land Company - the first major American enterprise in the Samoan Islands - was founded to speculate in real estate. Company agent James Stewart championed Pago Pago as the South Pacific’s best harbor and an ideal commercial depot, urged local chiefs to petition for U.S. annexation, and sought greater American involvement; Washington showed little interest, the firm’s holdings were auctioned, and the company collapsed. In 1871, the local steamer business of W. H. Webb required coal and he sent Captain E. Wakeman to Samoa in order to evaluate the suitability of Pago Pago as a coaling station. Wakeman approved the harbor and alerted the U.S. Navy about Germany's intent to take over the area. The U.S. Navy responded a few months later by dispatching Commander Richard Meade from Honolulu, Hawaii to assess Pago Pago's suitability as a naval station. Meade arrived in Pago Pago on and made a treaty with the Mauga for the exclusive use of the harbor and a set of commercial regulations to govern the trading and shipping in Pago Pago. He also purchased land for a new naval station. In 1872, the chief of Pago Pago signed a treaty with the U.S., giving the American government considerable influence on the island. Later, also in 1872, German consul Theodore Weber arrived in Pago Pago soon after Richard W. Meade’s departure. He cautioned Mauga that the treaty with the Americans was not official and insisted that German interests in the harbor be safeguarded. On August 7, 1873, Colonel Albert Barnes Steinberger—an associate of President Ulysses S. Grant and representative of the Pacific Mail Steamship Company—arrived in Pago Pago. He found that High Chief Mauga already regarded himself as under U.S. protection by virtue of his treaty with Richard W. Meade, though its terms had been largely neglected. No pilotage or watering facilities existed, and the buoys once placed by the USS Narragansett had long since drifted away. With the other members of the Treaty Board living 80 miles away in Apia, Mauga had been left unable to maintain the harbor on his own. Before moving on to Upolu, Steinberger insisted that at least Whale Rock, a hidden hazard to navigation, be properly marked with a buoy. Tutuila Island was acquired by the United States through a treaty in 1877. One year after the naval base was built at Pearl Harbor in 1887, the U.S. government established a naval station in Pago Pago. It was primarily used as a fueling station for both naval- and commercial ships. During the Tutuila War of 1877, all buildings in Pago Pago were destroyed. The war emerged during a tumultuous period, where Samoans were sharply divided over the future direction of their government. In response to the growing threat posed by the Puletua—a rising opposition faction—the Samoan leadership based in Apia sent Mamea to Washington, D.C. to negotiate an agreement with the U.S. While Mamea was abroad, the Puletua launched a rebellion, escalating the situation into full-scale war in Tutuila. To regain control, government forces stationed in Leone advanced toward Pago Pago, where the rebel leader Mauga was headquartered. The troops burned every building in Pago Pago and pursued Mauga along with several hundred followers to Aunu’u Island. The Puletua faction on Tutuila, led by the former U.S. Consul to Samoa, S. S. Foster, who had moved to Pago Pago after his dismissal, and Mauga, found Aunu’u incapable of supporting their forces. Consequently, they returned to Tutuila where they soon surrendered. In 1878, the U.S. Navy first established a coaling station, right outside Fagatogo. The United States Navy later bought land east of Fagatogo and on Goat Island, an adjacent peninsula. Sufficient land was obtained in 1898 and the construction of United States Naval Station Tutuila was completed in 1902. The station commander doubled as American Samoa's Governor from 1899 to 1905, when the station commandant was designated Naval Governor of American Samoa. The Fono (legislature) served as an advisory council to the governor. Despite the Samoan Islands being a part of the United States, the United Kingdom and Germany maintained a strong naval presence in the area. Twice between 1880 and 1900, the U.S. Navy came close to taking part in a shooting war while its only true interest was the establishment of a coaling station in Pago Pago. The U.S. quietly purchased land around the harbor for the construction of the naval station. It rented land on Fagatogo Beach for $10/month in order to store the coal. Admiral Lewis Kimberly was ordered to Pago Pago while in Apia waiting for transportation home after the hurricane of 1889. In Pago Pago, he selected a site for the new coaling station and naval base. In June 1890, the U.S. Congress passed an appropriation of $100,000 for the purpose of permanently establishing a station for the naval and commercial marine. With the appropriation, the State Department sent Consul Harold M. Sewall from Apia to Pago Pago to buy six tracts of land for the project. Some parts were previously owned by the Polynesian Land Company, while other tracts were still owned by Samoan families. For the defense of the harbor in event of a naval war, the U.S. Navy wanted to purchase headlands and mountainsides above the Lepua Catholic Church which directly faced the harbor's entrance. The conflict led to the deaths of 12 people. In 1887, the Kaimiloa, a 171-ton steamer and the only warship in the fleet of King Kalākaua of Hawai‘i, was sent on a diplomatic mission to the Samoan Islands as part of the Hawaiian monarch's initiative to create a united Polynesian kingdom. The journey included visits to several key locations, including Pago Pago, which was an important trading hub at the time. Historical accounts document the trade of the Kaimiloa's cannons to the Samoans, with at least one of these cannons now preserved and on display at the Jean P. Haydon Museum. In 1888, during the Samoan Civil War, German official Eugen Brandeis sought to enforce strict control over the Pago Pago Bay area. When Aua and Fagatogo fell into arrears under new tax laws, he imposed a US$300 fine on each and warned that nonpayment would bring war and the exile of village chiefs. The fines were promptly paid, with the proceeds remitted to the German treasury in Apia. The 1889 Apia cyclone ended a decade-long dispute between the U.S. and Germany over the coaling facilities at Pago Pago. During the storm, British, German, and American warships anchored off the island of Tutuila as part of the Samoan crisis were all sunk. In 1889, author Robert Louis Stevenson also paid a visit to Pago Pago. In 1892, Mauga Lei, High Chief of Pago Pago and a supporter of Malietoa Laupepa, spent extended periods in Upolu, leaving the bay area without his leadership. While Pago Pago remained loyal, Fagatogo - aligned with Mataʻafa - joined Aua in an effort to depose him. A confrontation followed: a canoe flotilla from Aua and Fagatogo advanced on Pago Pago but retreated under heavy gunfire. Warriors from Pago Pago and Fagasā then attacked Aua and Fagatogo, burning both villages; women and children took refuge at the Catholic mission at Lepua, and the flotilla withdrew to Aunuʻu. On May 27, 1893, a branch of the LDS Church was established in Pago Pago. The church had first arrived on the island in 1863 and became formally organized on Tutuila in 1888. In 1893, acting U.S. consul William Blacklock visited Pago Pago to assess the purchase of land at Blunts and Breakers Points for gun emplacements protecting the coaling station. Ongoing hostilities between Mauga of Pago Pago and Leʻiato of Fagaʻitua prevented a binding agreement; Blacklock secured only an option to purchase at a later date. In 1898, a California-based construction and engineering firm was contracted to build the coal depot. The naval engineer in charge was W. I. Chambers. On April 30, 1899, Commander Benjamin Franklin Tilley sailed from Norfolk, Virginia on with a cargo of coal and steel for the project. The U.S. Navy was the only American agency present in the area, and it was made responsible for administering the new territory. Pago Pago and Tutuila Island were formally part of the Kingdom of Samoa until 1899, when they became U.S. territory. In December of that year, the Tripartite Convention formally partitioned Tutuila as a U.S. territory, thereby granting the United States control over Pago Pago. In 1900, the Oceanic Steamship Company's steamers - the Sierra, the Ventura, and the Sonoma - shifted their port of call from Apia to Pago Pago. On April 17, 1900, the first American flag was raised at Sogelau Hill above the site of the new wharf and coaling facilities in Fagatogo. For the ceremony, a group of invitees from Apia arrived with German Governor Heinrich Solf onboard . USS Abarenda, home of B. F. Tilley and his new government, was in the harbor. American consul Luther W. Osborn arrived from Apia, and many spectators arrived from American Samoa villages and other countries. Tilley was the master of ceremonies and began the program by reading the Proclamation of the President of the United States, which asserted American sovereignty over the islands. Next was the reading of the Order of the Secretary of the Navy, followed by chiefs who read the Deed of Cession, which they had written and signed. Before raising the flag, reverend E. V. Cooper of the London Missionary Society (LMS) and reverend Father Meinaidier of the Roman Catholic Mission offered prayers. Students from the LMS school in Fagalele sang the national anthem. The two ships, Comoran and Abarenda, fired the national salutes. File:PAGO_PAGO_BAY.png|An 1896 illustration of Pago Pago. File:Castle_Packets,_R.M.S._DUNOTTAR_CASTLE.jpg|RMS Dunottar Castle was the second ship to enter Pago Pago Harbor. File:American Naval Base, Samoan Islands.png|From 1878 to 1951, it was a coaling and repair station for the U.S. Navy, known as US Naval Station Tutuila. File:A glimpse of the isles of the Pacific (1907) (14780577521).jpg|Boatmen in Pago Pago, 1907 File:Pago_Pago,_Samoa_LOC_15482942648.jpg|Pago Pago as seen in the early 1900s File:Samoa._Pagopago_(Tutuila)_showing_steamers_Ventura_%26_Mapourika._May_1903.,_PH-NEG-15060_001.jpg|Pago Pago Bay in 1903. File:Service-pnp-stereo-1s30000-1s36000-1s36600-1s36647v.jpg|US Naval Station Tutuila. File:HHMS_Kaimiloa_anchored_at_Honolulu_Harbor.jpg|HHMS Kaimiloa in 1887. Cannons recovered from the Kaimiloa are on display at the Jean P. Haydon Museum. File:Карта_к_статье_«Панго-Панго»._Военная_энциклопедия_Сытина_(Санкт-Петербург,_1911-1915).jpg|1914 map of Pago Pago File:HMS_Miranda_(1879)_AWM_302218.jpeg|Mauga Lei and Mauga Manuma were summoned to a peace conference aboard the H.M.S. Miranda in 1883. File:High_Chief_Mauga_Manuma_of_Pago_Pago,_Samoa,_1885.jpg|High Chief Mauga Manuma of Pago Pago, 1885. File:USS_Abarenda_(AC-13).jpg|The deck of U.S.S. Abarenda served as capitol from 1899-1902, and Commander Benjamin Franklin Tilley's cabin as the Governor’s residence. File:The Hurricane at Samoa on the morning of March 16 LCCN2002699802.jpg|The 1889 cyclone sank British, German, and American warships anchored off Tutuila. 20th century (unincorporated U.S. territory) On April 17, 1900, the first American flag was raised at Sogelau Hill above the site of the new wharf and coaling facilities in Fagatogo. For the ceremony, a group of invitees from Apia arrived with German Governor Heinrich Solf onboard . USS Abarenda, home of B. F. Tilley and his new government, was in the harbor. American consul Luther W. Osborn arrived from Apia, and many spectators arrived from American Samoa villages and other countries. Tilley was the master of ceremonies and began the program by reading the Proclamation of the President of the United States, which asserted American sovereignty over the islands. Next was the reading of the Order of the Secretary of the Navy, followed by chiefs who read the Deed of Cession, which they had written and signed. Before raising the flag, reverend E. V. Cooper of the London Missionary Society (LMS) and reverend Father Meinaidier of the Roman Catholic Mission offered prayers. Students from the LMS school in Fagalele sang the national anthem. The two ships, Comoran and Abarenda, fired the national salutes. At the beginning of the 20th century, Pago Pago became American Samoa's port of entry. The first school arose from petitions by Europeans in Pago Pago for a school for their children. Governor Uriel Sebree established it at Fagatogo, allocating US$1,000 from the copra fund, and reserved to himself the selection of pupils from the non-Samoan and part-Samoan population. On September 1, 1912, the first Samoan hospital was completed at Malaloa, on a hillside adjacent to the present-day site of the Sadie Thompson Inn. From December 16, 1916, to January 30, 1917, English author W. Somerset Maugham and his secretary and lover, Gerald Haxton, visited Pago Pago on their way from Hawai'i to Tahiti. Also on board the ship was a passenger named Miss Sadie Thompson, who had been evicted from Hawaii for prostitution. She was later the main character in the popular short story, Rain (1921), a story of a prostitute arriving in Pago Pago. Delayed because of a quarantine inspection, they checked into what is now known as Sadie Thompson Inn. Maugham also met an American sailor here, who later appeared as the title character in another short story, Red (1921). The Sadie Thompson Inn was added to the U.S. National Register of Historic Places in 2003. In 1920, Mauga Moi Moi, the highest ranking chief of Pago Pago, initiated the Mau movement. The Mau movement first took shape in Pago Pago, where gatherings were held at the doorstep of Mauga. High chiefs, chiefs, talking chiefs, and community members came together to take part. A series of fonos in Pago Pago brought together high and talking chiefs for prolonged oratory and political maneuvering. The meetings halted copra cutting for months, causing a sharp downturn in Tutuila’s economy. On August 31, 1925, Margaret Mead arrived in Pago Pago aboard the SS Sonoma to begin fieldwork for her Columbia University dissertation, later published as Coming of Age in Samoa. On September 26, 1930, the Bingham Commission reached Pago Pago aboard the USS Omaha. Their arrival was marked by a dockside parade of the Fita Fita Band, which performed The Star-Spangled Banner. File:SADIE THOMPSON BUILDING.jpg|English author W. Somerset Maugham stayed at Sadie Thompson Inn during his 6-week visit to Pago Pago in 1916. File:Blunts Point Battery - American Samoa - 1986.jpg|Guns were emplaced at Blunts and Breakers Points in 1940–42, covering Pago Pago Harbor. File:World_War_II_encampments_on_American_Samoa.jpg|Remains of a World War II encampment above Utulei. File:NC16734_Pan_American_Airways.jpg|Samoan Clipper exploded just after leaving Pago Pago Harbor in 1938. File:American_Samoa_tramway_remains.jpg|The historic tramway on the World War II Heritage Trail File:USS_Chehalis_(AOG-48)_at_anchor,_circa_in_1944_(NH_83319).jpg| sank in Pago Pago Harbor in 1949 near the main docks. First and Second World Wars In May 1917, when the U.S. joined World War I, two German ships anchoring in Pago Pago were seized. The 10,000-ton Elsass was towed to Honolulu and turned over to the U.S. Navy, while its smaller gunboat, Solf, was refitted in Pago Pago and given the name . Wireless messaging between Pago Pago and Hawaii was routed through Fiji. As the British censored all messages through Fiji, the Navy quickly upgraded the facilities to go directly between Pago Pago and Honolulu. The film’s release later that year brought international attention to Pago Pago, including a promotional photo spread in Life magazine. The film became a box office blockbuster, grossing $4.4 million domestically, and it went on to win the Academy Award for Best Sound Recording in 1938. On January 10, 1938, the flying boat Samoan Clipper exploded just after leaving Pago Pago Harbor. Pilot Edwin Musick and his crew of six died in the accident. light tank. Pago Pago was a vital naval base for the U.S. during World War II. Limited improvements at the naval station took place in the summer of 1940, which included a Marine Corps airfield at Tafuna. The new airfield was partly operational by April 1942, and fully operational by June. On March 15, 1941, the Marine Corps' 7th Defense Battalion arrived in Pago Pago and was the first Fleet Marine Force unit to serve in the South Pacific Ocean. It was also the first such unit to be deployed in defense of an American island. Guns were emplaced at Blunts and Breakers Points, covering Pago Pago Harbor. It trained the only Marine reserve unit to serve on active duty during World War II, namely the 1st Samoan Battalion, U.S. Marine Corps Reserve. The battalion mobilized after the attack on Pearl Harbor and remained active until January 1944. This took place on the morning of January 11, 1942, when a Japanese submarine surfaced in Fagasa Bay and fired fifteen rounds from its 5.5-inch deck guns toward Pago Pago. The shells passed over the hills and landed in several locations around Pago Pago Bay. Commander Edwin B. Robinson, who was cycling on Centipede Row, was struck in the knees by shrapnel. He was the only person in American Samoa to sustain war injuries during World War II. On January 20, 1942, the 2nd Marine Brigade arrived in Pago Pago with about 5,000 men and various supplies of weaponry, including cannons and tanks. On May 30, 1942, Rear Admiral Richard E. Byrd arrived in American Samoa to assess the defenses of Pago Pago. He reported that Tutuila’s garrison—7,995 U.S. Navy and Marine Corps personnel, along with 100 Fitafita Guards—was sufficient to repel minor raids but inadequate to withstand a major assault. On August 24, 1943, Pago Pago and the U.S. Naval Station was visited by First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt. The First Lady reviewed the Fita Fita Guard and Band and the First Sāmoan Battalion at the U.S. Naval Station. On October 7, 1949, the , a World War II oil and gas tanker, exploded and sank in Pago Pago Harbor. It remains the only shipwreck from that era found in the harbor and lies just over 100 feet beneath the current fuel dock. Measuring 90 meters in length, the wreck continues to be considered a source of pollution, impacting the water quality as of 2002. In 1953, 56 Tokelauans evicted from Swains Island arrived in Pago Pago, where they had to be supported by American Samoa until their repatriation. In response, Governor Richard Barrett Lowe issued an executive order to prevent similar incidents in the future, including restrictions that limited employment on Swains Island to American Samoans. In the 1953 American Samoan legislative election, Mabel Coleman Reid of Pago Pago became the first woman elected to the American Samoa House of Representatives. 1960s , Apollo 13 mission commander, aboard the U.S.S. Iwo Jima, the prime recovery ship for Apollo 13, en route to Pago Pago. Pago Pago was an important location for NASA's Apollo program from 1961 to 1972. Apollo 10, Apollo 11, Apollo 12, Apollo 13, Apollo 14 and Apollo 17 landed by Tutuila Island, and the crew flew from Pago Pago to Honolulu on their way back to the mainland. At Jean P. Haydon Museum are displays of an American Samoa-flag brought to the Moon in 1969 by Apollo 11, as well as moonstones, all given as a gift to American Samoa by President Richard Nixon following the return of the Apollo Moon missions. The museum was officially opened in October 1971 with an opening featuring Margaret Mead as a guest speaker. The National Endowment for the Arts provided a start-up grant. The most valuable asset was an exquisite mat reputed to be the Fala o Futa, the first important fine mat of Samoa, donated by Senate President HC Salanoa S.P. Aumoeualogo. The other major contribution was a cannon which came off Kaimiloa, a 171-ton steamer and the only warship in the fleet of King Kalakaua of Hawai'i. The Hawaiian king sent the ship to the Samoan Islands in an effort at creating a Polynesian kingdom. President Lyndon B. Johnson and First Lady Lady Bird Johnson visited Pago Pago on October 18, 1966. Johnson remains the only U.S. president to have visited American Samoa. Lyndon B. Johnson Tropical Medical Center was named in honor of the president. Landing ahead of the Air Force One was the press plane that carried seventy news reporters. The two-hour visit was televised throughout the country and the world. Governor H. Rex Lee and traditional leaders crammed ceremonies, entertainment, a brief tour, and a school dedication: the Manulele Tausala, Lady Bird Johnson School. The President gave a speech where he laid out the American policy for its lone South Pacific territory. The President and First Lady returned to American Samoa in December 1966, on their way to Prime Minister's Harold Holt's funeral in Australia. Governor Owen Aspinall offered a quiet welcome as the White House asked for there to be no ceremonies during the visit. Around 3,000 spectators went to the Pago Pago International Airport to see the President. In 1972, seven historical buildings in American Samoa were entered in the National Register of Historic Places of the United States, including Navy Building 38, Jean P. Haydon Museum, and the Government House. In 1986, the First Invitational Canoe Race was held in Pago Pago. 21st century visiting Pago Pago in 2016. Since 2000, American Samoa Department of Education through its school athletic program is the host of the East & West High School All-Star Football Game. It has been held at the field in Gagamoe in Pago Pago. In 2008, the tenth Festival of Pacific Arts was held in Pago Pago, drawing 2,500 participants from 27 countries. Also in 2008, Asuega Fa’amamata, one of the few female chiefs in the territory, was elected by Pago Pago as its new senator, becoming the sole female legislator in the American Samoa Fono. In 2010, Tri Marine Group, the world's largest supplier of fish, purchased the plant assets of Samoa Packing and committed $34 million for a state-of-the-art tuna packing facility. when he made a stopover in Pago Pago in April 2017. He addressed 200 soldiers here during his refueling stop. U.S. Secretary of State Rex Tillerson visited town on June 3, 2017. In August 2017, the Fono building in Fagatogo was demolished. In 2018, four months of repair took place at the ASG-owned Ronald Reagan Shipyard in Satala. A North Korean cargo ship seized by the United States arrived in Pago Pago for inspections in 2019. 2009 tsunami surging through a parking lot On September 29, 2009, an earthquake struck in the South Pacific, near Samoa and American Samoa, sending a tsunami into Pago Pago and surrounding areas. The tsunami caused moderate to severe damage to villages, buildings and vehicles and caused 34 deaths and hundreds of injuries. It was an 8.3 magnitude earthquake which caused waves to hit the city. It caused major flooding and damaged numerous buildings. A local power plant was disabled, 241 homes were destroyed, and 308 homes had major damage. Shortly after the earthquake, President Barack Obama issued a federal disaster declaration, which authorized funds for individual assistance (IA), such as temporary housing. The largest wave hit Pago Pago at 6:13 pm local time, with an amplitude of . ==Geography==
Geography
Pago Pago is in the Eastern District of American Samoa, in Ma'oputasi County. It is approximately southwest of Hawaii, northeast of New Zealand, and southwest of California. It is located at . Pago Pago is located 18 degrees south of the equator. The city of Pago Pago encompasses several surrounding villages, including Fagatogo, the legislative and judicial capital, and Utulei, the executive capital and home of the Governor. The main downtown area is Fagatogo on the south shore of Pago Pago Harbor, the location of the Fono (territorial legislature), the port, the bus station and the market. The banks are in Utulei and Fagotogo, as are the Sadie Thompson Inn and other hotels. The tuna canneries, which provide employment for a third of the population of Tutuila, are in Atu'u on the north shore of the harbor. The village of Pago Pago is at the western head of the harbor. Pago Pago Harbor nearly bisects Tutuila Island. It is facing south and situated almost midpoint on the island. Its bay is wide and long. A high mountain, Mount Pioa (Rainmaker Mountain), is located at the east side of the bay. Half of American Samoa's inhabitants live along Pago Pago's foothills and coastal areas. The downtown area is known as Fagatogo and is home to government offices, port facilities, Samoan High School and the Rainmaker Hotel. Two tuna factories are located in the northern part of town. The town is centered around the mouth of the Vaopito Stream. In the village of Pago Pago, from Malaloa to Satala, there are a total of eleven rivers or streams. These include Vaipito, Gagamoe, Laolao, Pago, Leau, Vaima, Utumoa, and Aga. Tidal mud flats associated with the mouth of the Vaopito Stream were filled in order to create Pago Pago Park at the head of Pago Pago Harbor. Five species of Gobie fish, Mountain bass, Freshwater eel, Mullet and four shrimp species have been recorded along the lower reach of the Vaipito Stream. North of town is the National Park of American Samoa. A climb to the summit of Mount Alava in the National Park of American Samoa provides a bird's-eye view of the harbor and town. File:NPS national-park-American-Samoa-visitor-center-area-map.jpg|NPS map of Pago Pago File:PagoPago.jpg|Pago Pago Harbor is the world's largest natural deep harbor. File:AmericanSamoa.jpg|Bird's-eye view of the coast of Pago Pago Agriculture Agriculture and fishing still provide sustenance for local families. It has been described as a "thoroughly Americanized" city. Fagatogo is Pago Pago's chief governmental and commercial center. Pago Pago Park is a public park by the harbor in Pago Pago. It lies by the Laolao Stream at the very end of Pago Pago Harbor. It is a recreational complex and culture center. There are a ball field, sports court and boat ramp in the park. The park houses businesses such as the American Samoa Development Bank. There are basketball and tennis courts, a football field, a gymnasium, a bowling alley and several Korean food kiosks in the park. The Korean House was built as a social center for the Korean fishermen in town. is the visitor center for the National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa. Pago Pago is the primary entry point for visits to National Park of American Samoa, and the city is situated immediately south of the park. Its park visitor center is located at the head of Pago Pago Harbor: Pago Plaza Visitor Center (Pago Plaza, Suite 114, Pago Pago, AS 96799). This center also contains a collection of Samoan artifacts, corals, and seashells. The nearest hotels to the national park are also located in Pago Pago. Other parts of the park, on the islands of Taū and Ofu, can be visited via commercial inter-island air carrier from Pago Pago International Airport. The national park is home to tropical rainforest, tall mountains, beaches, and some of the tallest sea cliffs in the world (). It was authorized by the U.S. Congress in 1988 to preserve the paleotropical rain forest, Indo-Pacific coral reefs, and Samoan culture. It officially opened in 1993 when a 50-year lease was signed between the U.S. federal government, the government of American Samoa, and local village chiefs (Matai). It is the only U.S. National Park where the U.S. federal government leases the land from local governments instead of being the land owner. It is a park which provides habitat for a variety of tropical wildlife, including coral reef fish, seabirds, flying fruit bats, and numerous other species of animals. Approximately are on Tutuila, and the remainder is on the other islands and the ocean. The park's offshore coral reefs provide habitat for 1,000 species of coral reef and pelagic fishes. The park is home to over 150 species of coral. Notable terrestrial species are the Pacific tree boa and the Flying Megabat, which has a wingspread. Natural hazards Pago Pago is vulnerable to natural and man-made disasters. Vulnerabilities include heavy storms, flooding, tsunamis, mudslides, and earthquakes. American Samoa has experienced several cyclones and tropical storms, which also increase risks of rock slides and floodings. The capital city is situated at the head of Pago Pago Harbor in a sheltered area that has been described as relatively safe during hurricanes. Geology of Pago at Pago Pago Harbor. Tutuila Island is a basaltic volcanic dome created by five volcanoes aligned along two or possibly three rift zones—fractures in the basement rock. The island's formation dates back to the Pliocene and early Pleistocene epochs, approximately 5 million to 500,000 years ago. Volcanic activity ceased around 10,000 years ago, leaving the island volcanically dormant today. The central feature of Tutuila's geology is the Pago Volcano, which was active between 1.54 and 1.28 million years ago. The volcano's caldera, approximately 6 miles long and 3 miles wide, collapsed 1.27 million years ago, creating Pago Pago Harbor. The natural harbor formed in the partially submerged remnants of the caldera, which cuts deeply into the south-central coast of the island. The village of Pago Pago is situated at the narrowest part of Tutuila, near the center of the collapsed caldera. The northern half of the Pago Volcano shield remains, while the southeastern portion has been eroded to form the harbor. Erosion has also played a significant role in shaping the landscape. Following the collapse of the Pago Volcano, the Vaipito Valley and Pago Pago Bay were sculpted by streams and geological processes. The Vaipito Stream, which follows a fault line associated with the volcano, carved steep valley walls, exposing rock formations of basalt, andesite, and trachyte. Over time, colluvial and fluvial sediments filled the lower reaches of the valley, creating a narrow, flat floodplain. Coralline sands and basaltic sediments deposited at the stream's mouth contributed to the formation of a narrow coral-rubble reef flat along Pago Pago Bay's shoreline. Pago Pago Harbor marks the southeastern boundary of the caldera. The northwest rim of the caldera, known as the Maugaloa Ridge, forms the southern boundary of the National Park of American Samoa. == Climate ==
Climate
gives the city the highest annual rainfall of any harbor in the world. Pago Pago has a tropical rainforest climate (Köppen climate classification Af) with hot temperatures and abundant year-round rainfall. All official climate records for American Samoa are kept at Pago Pago. The hottest temperature ever recorded was on February 22, 1958. Conversely, the lowest temperature on record was on October 10, 1964. The average annual temperature recorded at the weather station at Pago Pago International Airport is , with a temperature range of about two degrees Fahrenheit separating the average monthly temperatures of the coolest and hottest months. Pago Pago has been named one of the rainiest places on Earth. Due to its warm winters, the plant hardiness zone is 13b. It receives of rain per year. The rainy season lasts from October through May, but the town experiences warm and humid temperatures year-round. Besides it being wetter and more humid from November–April, this is also the hurricane season. The frequency of hurricanes hitting Pago Pago has increased dramatically in recent years. The windy season lasts from May to October. As warmer easterlies are forced up and over Rainmaker Mountain, clouds form and drop moisture on the city. Consequentially, Pago Pago experiences twice the rainfall of nearby Apia in Western Samoa. Rainmaker Mountain, which is also known as Mount Pioa, is a designated National Natural Landmark.{{cite web ==Demographics==
Demographics
The village of Pago Pago proper had a 2010 population of 3,656. However, Pago Pago also encompasses neighboring villages. The Greater Pago Pago Area was home to 11,500 residents in 2011. Around 90 percent of American Samoa's population lives around Pago Pago. American Samoa's population grew by 22 percent in the 1990s; nearly all of this growth took place in Pago Pago. As of the 2000 U.S. census, 74.5% of Pago Pago's population are of "Native Hawaiian or Other Pacific Island" race. 16.6% were Asian, while 4.9% were white. In Pago Pago proper, residential communities are mostly found in the Vaipito Valley. ==Government==
Government
Pago Pago is the seat of the judiciary (Fagatogo), legislature and Governor's Office (Utulei). ==Education==
Education
The Feleti Barstow Public Library is located in Pago Pago. In 1991, severe tropical Cyclone Val hit Pago Pago, destroying the library that existed there. The current Barstow library, constructed in 1998, opened on April 17, 2000. The American Samoa Community College (ASCC) was founded in July 1970 by the American Samoa Department of Education. The college's first courses were taught in 1971 at the Lands and Survey Building in Fagatogo. At the time, the college had a total enrollment of 131 students. In 1972, the college moved to the former Fialloa High School in Utulei, before ultimately moving to its current location in Mapusaga in 1974. ==Culture==
Culture
Religion Pago Pago is home to a variety of Christian denominations, including the New Apostolic Church, the Congregational Christian Church of Jesus Christ (CCCJS), the Pago Pago Assembly of God, The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS), the Susana Uesele Methodist Church, and the First Chinese Baptist Church of American Samoa. The All People’s Pentecostal Church was dedicated in August 2017, and a new Jehovah’s Witnesses Kingdom Hall opened in 2016. The town also has a Baháʼí Center. In neighboring Satala, there is a Seventh-day Adventist Church, while Fagatogo is the site of the Roman Catholic Co-Cathedral of St. Joseph the Worker. Several congregations in Pago Pago, including Assemblies of God, the Congregational Christian Church of American Samoa (CCCAS), and Methodist churches, participate in joint worship services through the World Council of Churches. However, The Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints, Jehovah’s Witnesses, and certain other denominations do not take part in these shared services. ==Economy==
Economy
cannery, the largest tuna processing plant in the world. Pago Pago is the center of commerce in American Samoa. It is home to all the industry and most of the commerce in American Samoa. Tuna canning is the main economic activity in town. Exports are almost exclusively tuna canneries such as Chicken of the Sea and StarKist, which are both located in Pago Pago. These also occupy 14 percent of American Samoa's total workforce as of 2014. The most industrialized area in the territory can be found between Pago Pago Harbor and the Tafuna-Leone Plain, which also are the two most densely populated places in the islands. American Samoa was the world's fourth-largest tuna processor in 1993. The primary industry is tuna processing by the Samoa Packing Co. (Chicken of the Sea) and StarKist Samoa, a subsidiary of H.J. Heinz. The first cannery was opened in 1954. Canned fish, canned pet food, and fish meal from skin and bones account for 93 percent of American Samoa's industrial output. Pago Pago is a duty-free port and prices on imported goods are lower than in other parts of the South Pacific Ocean. Tourism Tourism in American Samoa is centered around Pago Pago. It receives 34,000 visitors per year, which is one-fourth of neighboring country of Samoa. 69.3 percent of visitors are from the United States as of 2014. Until 1980, one could experience the view of Mt. Avala by taking an aerial tramway over the harbor, but on April 17 of that year a U.S. Navy plane, flying overhead as part of the Flag Day celebrations, struck the cable; the plane crashed into a wing of the Rainmaker Hotel. The tramway was repaired, but closed not long after. The tram remains unusable, although according to Lonely Planet, plans have been put forth to reopen it, but in January 2011 the cable was damaged by Tropical Cyclone Wilma, fell into the harbor and has not been repaired. Governor Lolo Matalasi Moliga announced in 2014 that he would look into restoring the cable car. The Sadie Thompson Inn, on the outskirts of Pago Pago, is a hotel and restaurant that is listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. The Greater Pago Pago Area is home to more than 10 hotels: ==Transportation==
Transportation
Pago Pago Harbor is the port of entry for vessels arriving in American Samoa. Many cruise boats and ships land at Pago Pago Harbor for reprovision reasons, such as to restock on goods and to utilize American-trained medical personnel. Pago Pago Harbor is one of the world's largest natural harbors. or one of the best in the world as a whole. Pago Pago is a port of call for South Pacific cruise ships, including Norwegian Cruise Line and Princess Cruises. However, cruise ships do not take on passengers in Pago Pago, but typically arrive in the morning and depart in the afternoon. Thirteen cruise ships were scheduled to visit Pago Pago in 2017, bringing 31,000 visitors. Pago Pago Harbor can accommodate two cruise ships at the same time, and has done so on several occasions. Pago Pago International Airport (PPG) is located at Tafuna, southwest of Pago Pago. There are international flights to Samoa 4–7 times daily by Polynesian Airlines: There is only one flight destination from the territory to the United States: Honolulu International Airport, a five-hour flight from Pago Pago by Hawaiian Airlines. Of the 88,650 international arrivals in 2001, only 10 percent were tourists. The rest came to visit relatives, for employment reasons, or in transit. Most international visitors are from the independent country of Samoa. Bus and taxi services are based in Fagatogo. ==Historical sites==
Historical sites
is a U.S. National Historic Landmark. Sixteen remaining structures from the U.S. Naval Station Tutuila Historic District are listed on the U.S. National Register of Historic Places. These include the Government House, Courthouse of American Samoa, Jean P. Haydon Museum, Navy Building 38, and other buildings. World War II fortifications Near Pila F. Palu Co. Inc. Store, a road runs up the hill into Happy Valley, and on the side of this road, six World War II ammunition bunkers can be seen on the left before reaching a dirt road. The dirt road, also located on the left side, leads to a big concrete bunker which was used as naval communications headquarters during World War II. Over fifty pillbox fortifications can be found along the coastline on Tutuila Island. The largest of these is the Marine Corps communication bunker in Pago Pago. It is located in the Autapini area, which is between Malaloa and Happy Valley. During World War II, guns were emplaced at Blunt's and Breaker's Points, covering Pago Pago Harbor. ==Flora==
Flora
At one time there were a number of mangrove forests around the Pago Pago area, but these are now all gone, with the exception of a few scattered individual trees surviving at Aiia on the east side of Pago Pago Bay. No trace of mangroves are longer found within Fagatogo village limits, thus contradicting its name ("bay of mangroves"). ==Fauna==
Fauna
Black turtles and Hawksbill turtles have been recorded in Pago Pago Harbor. The area also attracts seabirds like the Crested tern and the Blue-gray noddy, which are known to roost and nest nearby. The Cardinal honey-eater frequents the ridges above Pago Pago, feeding on nectar from native plants. Additionally, the Wandering tattler has been spotted along a mountain stream just west of the town. The Black rat has also been recorded in Pago Pago. The Red-vented bulbul, an introduced bird species, has become widespread on Tutuila Island. It was first observed in Apia during the 1940s and later reported in Pago Pago in 1958. Another introduced species, the Rock dove, has a more recent and less well-documented history in the Samoan Islands. Records from the 1950s indicate that a flock of 20 Rock Doves was kept by a family in Pago Pago during this period. The Grey-backed tern is occasionally observed feeding within Pago Pago Harbor, while the Black noddy is frequently sighted flying over the same area. The Common myna, an adaptable urban bird, is commonly encountered in the developed regions surrounding Pago Pago. == Recreation ==
Recreation
. The main trailhead for both Mount ʻAlava and Mount Matafao is located at the crest of Fagasā Pass, just above the Vaipito Valley. From this point the Mount ʻAlava Trail – the only hiking trail within the Pago Pago unit of the National Park of American Samoa – ascends to the 491-meter (1,611-foot) summit, while a separate trail on the opposite side of the road climbs toward Mount Matafao, the highest peak on Tutuila Island. The most popular hiking trail on the island is the World War II Heritage Trail, a 3-kilometer (1.9-mile) ridge walk that ends at Blunt’s Point. Along the way it skirts prehistoric archaeological features and a series of coastal gun emplacements installed in 1942–43 to repel a possible Japanese landing. Two short trails provide additional access to wartime fortifications: the Blunt’s Point Trail, a 0.6-kilometer (0.4-mile) climb up Matautu Ridge to the twin 6-inch naval guns of Blunts Point Battery, and the Breakers Point Trail, a 0.5-kilometer (0.3-mile) path across Pago Pago Harbor that reaches Breakers Point Naval Guns. == Landmarks ==
Landmarks
Landmarks include: • Breakers Point Naval Guns, World War II-era defensive fortification • Rainmaker Mountain (Pioa Mountain), designated National Natural Landmark • Utulei Beach, beach in UtuleiNavy Building 38, historic radio station in FagatogoTauese PF Sunia Ocean Center, visitor center for National Marine Sanctuary of American Samoa • Air Disaster Memorial, in Utulei. Monument for the eight deceased during a 1980 airplane crash File:GOVERNMENT HOUSE OR GOVERNOR'S MANSION.jpg|Government House, on the Togotogo Ridge, appears on the National Register of Historic Places. File:Jean p haydon museum.png|Fale outside Jean P. Haydon Museum ==In popular culture==
In popular culture
'' (1928) is based on the story of a prostitute who arrives in Pago Pago. • Rain (1921) by W. Somerset Maugham is set in Pago Pago. Movie adaptions include Sadie Thompson (1928), Rain (1932), and Miss Sadie Thompson (1953). • The Blonde Captive (1931) was filmed in Pago Pago. • The Hurricane (1937) and Its sequel, Hurricane (1979), were set in Pago Pago. The 1937 film was filmed in Pago Pago. • A jungle village resembling Pago Pago was created for motion picture in Two Harbors, Catalina Island, CA. Several Sadie Thompson films were shot here. • Lost and Found on a South Sea Island (1923) is set in Pago Pago. • Next Goal Wins (2014), British documentary filmed in Pago Pago. • Samoa, California was named in honor of American Samoa. It was assumed that the harbor in Pago Pago looked similar to that of the town, and it consequentially got the name Samoa, CA in the 1890s. • In the Sweet Pie and Pie (1941), The Three Stooges short. Pago Pago is mentioned as being one of the locations for the fictional Heedam Neckties stores. • In Better Call Saul (2015), Saul Goodman graduated from the fictional American Samoa Law School. == Notable people ==
Notable people
was the first Governor of Samoan descent. • Isaako Aaitui, football player • Bob Apisa, football player • Peter Tali Coleman, 43rd, 51st, and 53rd Governor of American SamoaJonathan Fanene, Former NFL player for the Cincinnati BengalsMonica Galetti, UK-based chef and restauranteur • Al Harrington, actor most known for his role in Hawaii Five-OJoey Iosefa, football player • John Kneubuhl, screenwriter • Trevor Misipeka, football player • Mighty Mo, kickboxer • Mauga Moi Moi, paramount Aliʻi, signatory of the Deed of Cession, and initiator of the Mau movement. • Faauuga Muagututia, US Navy Seal and Winter Olympic competitor • Shaun Nua, Former NFL player for the Pittsburgh SteelersShalom Luani, NFL player for the Los Angeles ChargersDomata Peko, football player • Kennedy Polamalu, football coach and former player • Mary Jewett Pritchard, Siapo artist. • Amata Coleman Radewagen, delegate to the U.S. House of Representatives for American Samoa • Gabe Reid, former football tight end for the NFL's Chicago Bears • Mabel Reid, first woman elected to the American Samoa House of Representatives. • Nicky Salapu, soccer player • Cocoa Samoa, wrestler • Junior Siavii, Former NFL player for the Kansas City Chiefs, Dallas Cowboys, and the Seattle SeahawksFrank Solomon, rugby player • Isaac Sopoaga, Former NFL player for the San Francisco 49ers, Philadelphia Eagles, New England Patriots, and the Arizona CardinalsPalauni Ma Sun, American football offensive lineman • Fofó Iosefa Fiti Sunia, first non-voting Delegate from American Samoa to the U.S. House of Representatives • Mosi Tatupu, Former NFL player for the New England Patriots, and the Los Angeles RamsDaniel Teo-Nesheim, Former NFL player for the Philadelphia Eagles, and the Tampa Bay BuccaneersGary Scott Thompson, director and television producer == See also ==
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