European settlement The first European to explore and write about the area was
Martin Pring in 1603. The Piscataqua River is a tidal
estuary with a swift current, but forms a good natural harbor. The west bank of the harbor was settled by European colonists in 1630 and named
Strawbery Banke, after the many wild
strawberries growing there. The village was protected by
Fort William and Mary on what is now
New Castle Island. Strategically located for trade between upstream industries and
mercantile interests abroad, the port prospered. Fishing,
lumber and
shipbuilding were principal businesses of the region.
Colonial development and slavery Enslaved Africans were
imported as laborers as early as 1645 and were integral to building the city's prosperity. Portsmouth participated in the
Triangle Trade, which generated profits from slavery. At the town's incorporation in 1653, it was named "Portsmouth" in honor of the colony's founder,
John Mason. He had been captain of the English port of
Portsmouth,
Hampshire, after which New Hampshire is named.
Richard Martyn was one of the founders of the first church in Portsmouth, and served as Selectman, Representative to the General Court, Speaker of the House, and Chief Justice. Portsmouth was spared many of the French and Indian raids that occurred during
King William's War. However, many neighboring towns were attacked including
Dover,
Durham, and
York. While the war was on-going, the shipyard in Portsmouth completed its first ship for the Royal Navy,
HMS Falkland in 1696. When
Queen Anne's War ended in 1712, Governor
Joseph Dudley selected the town to host negotiations for the 1713
Treaty of Portsmouth, which temporarily ended hostilities between the
Abenaki Indians and the colonies of
Massachusetts Bay and New Hampshire. Although
Fort William and Mary protected the harbor, the Patriot government moved the capital inland to
Exeter to avoid threats from the Royal Navy, which
bombarded Falmouth (now
Portland, Maine) on October 18, 1775. Portsmouth served as a destination for several of
Beaumarchais's ships containing
materiel, such as artillery, tents, and gunpowder, to support the American revolutionary effort. African Americans participated in defending Portsmouth and New England during the war. In 1779, 19 enslaved African Americans from Portsmouth wrote a
petition to the state legislature requesting the abolition of slavery, citing their war contributions and the principles of the Revolution.
19th century development Thomas Jefferson's 1807
embargo against American trade with
Britain severely disrupted New England's trade with
Canada, causing several local businessmen to go bankrupt. Portsmouth hosted numerous
privateers during the
War of 1812. In 1849, Portsmouth was incorporated as a city. The compact and walkable downtown on the waterfront attracts tourists and artists who frequent the cafes, restaurants and shops around Market Square. Portsmouth annually celebrates the revitalization of its downtown (particularly Market Square) with Market Square Day, a celebration dating back to 1977, produced by the non-profit Pro Portsmouth, Inc.
Military developments During World War II, Portsmouth Municipal Airport was expanded and converted to military use, eventually becoming
Pease Air Force Base in 1956. Named after New Hampshire Medal of Honor recipient Captain Harl Pease Jr., the
Strategic Air Command facility housed nuclear bombers including the renowned
509th Bomb Wing during the Cold War era. The base served as a crucial component of America's nuclear deterrent until its closure in 1991 under the
Base Realignment and Closure process. The Portsmouth Naval Shipyard's contribution to submarine technology advanced significantly with the construction of the experimental
USS Albacore in 1953. This revolutionary research submarine pioneered the teardrop hull design that became standard for all modern submarines and set world underwater speed records during its service until 1972. The vessel was designated a
National Historic Landmark and returned to Portsmouth as a museum in 1985.
Urban renewal and preservation The city's emphasis on historic preservation and revitalization emerged from a period of significant destruction. Portsmouth's current walkable character results from its network of streets and dense blocks filled with preserved Revolution-era homes. However, like many cities throughout the region and nation, Portsmouth experienced
urban renewal, a federally funded planning initiative designed to address "urban blight" and revitalize downtown cores after decades of suburbanization and declining tax revenue. Portsmouth's urban renewal district encompassed the North End neighborhood, which, similar to Boston's North End, was home to a significant Italian-American population. In 1964, federal funds were allocated to the North End project area for urban renewal. Prior to redevelopment, the North End contained a mix of residential and commercial buildings, with many older houses converted into storefronts with apartments above. By the mid-1960s, the area was considered overcrowded, deteriorated, and a fire hazard. The Portsmouth Housing Authority proposed demolishing approximately 200 buildings, a school, and a church, with redevelopment planned for commercial, industrial, and public use rather than residential purposes. The project would have displaced approximately 300 families. In 1968, Portsmouth Preservation Inc., a preservation organization, was formed to save some of the historic building stock slated for redevelopment. After extensive advocacy efforts, only fourteen houses were saved and mostly relocated to an area now known as "The Hill". The facility gained international prominence as the site of the 1905 signing of the
Treaty of Portsmouth which ended the
Russo-Japanese War. Although U.S. President
Theodore Roosevelt orchestrated the peace conference that brought Russian and Japanese diplomats to Portsmouth and the Shipyard, he did not personally visit Portsmouth, relying instead on the Navy and people of New Hampshire to serve as hosts. Roosevelt received the 1906
Nobel Peace Prize for his diplomatic efforts in ending the war. ==Geography==