.
Momoyama period, 16th century.
Until the Kamakura period The origin of sake is unclear; however, the method of fermenting rice into alcohol spread to Japan from China around 500 BCE. The earliest reference to the use of alcohol in Japan is recorded in the
Book of Wei in the
Records of the Three Kingdoms. This 3rd-century Chinese text speaks of Japanese drinking and dancing. are mentioned several times in the , Japan's first written history, which was compiled in 712. Bamforth (2005) places the probable origin of true sake (which is made from rice, water, and ) in the
Nara period (710–794). The fermented food fungi traditionally used for making alcoholic beverages in China and Korea for a long time were fungi belonging to
Rhizopus and
Mucor, whereas in Japan, except in the early days, the fermented food fungus used for sake brewing was
Aspergillus oryzae. A large tub with a capacity of 10
koku (1,800 liters) was invented at the end of the Muromachi period, making it possible to mass-produce sake more efficiently than before. Until then, sake had been made in jars with a capacity of 1, 2, or 3
koku at the most, and some sake brewers used to make sake by arranging 100 jars. In the 16th century, the technique of distillation was introduced into the Kyushu district from Ryukyu. The
Nada-Gogō area in
Hyōgo Prefecture, the largest producer of modern sake, was formed during this period. When the population of
Edo, modern-day
Tokyo, began to grow rapidly in the early 1600s, brewers who made sake in inland areas such as
Fushimi,
Itami, and
Ikeda moved to the Nada-Gogō area on the coast, where the weather and water quality were perfect for brewing sake and convenient for shipping it to Edo. In the Genroku era, when the culture of the
chōnin class, the common people, prospered, the consumption of sake increased rapidly, and large quantities of were shipped to Edo. 80% of the sake drunk in Edo during this period was from Nada-Gogō. Many of today's major sake producers, including Hakutsuru, Ōzeki, Nihonsakari, Kikumasamune, Kenbishi and
Sawanotsuru, are breweries in Nada-Gogō. The #Methods of preparing the starter mash| method, one of the traditional techniques for preparing the starter mash, was developed in the Nada during the Edo period. During this period, frequent natural disasters and bad weather caused rice shortages, and the
Tokugawa shogunate issued sake brewing restrictions 61 times. In the early Edo period, there was a sake brewing technique called that was optimized for each season. In 1667, the technique of for making sake in winter was improved, and in 1673, when the Tokugawa shogunate banned brewing other than
kanzukuri because of a shortage of rice, the technique of sake brewing in the four seasons ceased, and it became common to make sake only in winter until industrial technology began to develop in the 20th century. During this period, aged for three, five, or nine years, was a luxury, but its deliciousness was known to the common people. and
Isaac Titsingh published accounts identifying sake as a popular alcoholic beverage in Japan, but Titsingh was the first to try to explain and describe the process of sake brewing. The work of both writers was widely disseminated throughout Europe at the beginning of the 19th century.
From the Meiji era to the early Shōwa era Starting around the beginning of the
Meiji era (1868–1912), the technique for making sake began to develop rapidly. Breeding was actively carried out in various parts of Japan to produce
sake rice optimized for sake brewing.
Ise Nishiki developed in 1860,
Omachi developed in 1866 and
Shinriki developed in 1877 are the earliest representative varieties. In 1923,
Yamada Nishiki, later called the "king of sake rice," was produced. In Japan, sake has long been taxed by the national government. In 1878, the liquor tax accounted for 12.3% of the national tax revenue, excluding local taxes, and in 1888 it was 26.4%, and in 1899 it was 38.8%, finally surpassing the land tax of 35.6%. The Meiji government adopted a system in which taxes were collected when sake was finished, instead of levying taxes on the amount and price of sake at the time of sale to ensure more revenue from liquor taxes. The liquor tax for the sake produced in a given year had to be paid to the government during that fiscal year, so the breweries tried to make money by selling the sake as soon as possible. This destroyed the market for aged , which had been popular until then, and it was only in 1955 that sake breweries began to make again.
Since the mid-Showa era After the war, the breweries gradually recovered and the quality of sake steadily improved, and there were various innovations in sake brewing. The term , which means carefully brewed sake, first appeared at the end of the Edo period, and the term , which has the same meaning, first appeared in 1894. However, , which is popular in the world today, was created by the development of various sake production techniques from the 1930s to around 1975. From 1930 to 1931, a new type of rice milling machine was invented, which made it possible to make rice with a polishing ratio of about 50%, removing the miscellaneous taste derived from the surface part of the rice grain to make sake with a more aromatic and refreshing taste than before. In 1936,
Yamada Nishiki, the most suitable sake rice for brewing
ginjō-shu, became the recommended variety of
Hyogo Prefecture. Around 1953, the , was invented, which produced fruit-like aromas like apples and bananas but also excelled in fermentation. From around 1965, more and more manufacturers began to work on the research and development of
ginjō-shu, and by about 1968, the Kyokai yeast No. 9 began to be used throughout Japan. In the 1970s, temperature control technology in the mash production process improved dramatically. And by slowly fermenting rice at low temperatures using high-milled rice and a newly developed sake yeast,
ginjō-shu with a fruity flavor was created. At that time,
ginjō-shu was a special sake exhibited at competitive exhibitions and was not on the market. From around 1975,
ginjō-shu began to be marketed and was widely distributed in the 1980s, and in 1990, with the definition of what can be labeled as
ginjō-shu, more and more brewers began to sell
ginjō-shu. The growing popularity of
ginjō-shu has prompted research into yeast, and many yeasts with various aromas optimized for
ginjō-shu have been developed. In 1973, the
National Tax Agency's brewing research institute developed . The number of sake breweries is also declining. While there were 3,229 breweries nationwide in fiscal 1975, the number had fallen to 1,845 in 2007. In recent years, exports have rapidly increased due to the growing popularity of sake worldwide. The value of sake exports in 2022 was more than six times that of 2009. As of 2022, the value of Japan's alcoholic beverage exports was approximately 139.2 billion yen, with
Japanese whisky in first place at 56.1 billion yen and sake in second place at 47.5 billion yen. Today, sake has become a world beverage with a few breweries in China, Southeast Asia, South America, North America, and Australia. In addition to
Aspergillus oryzae (yellow
kōji),
Aspergillus kawachii (white
kōji) and
Aspergillus luchuensis (black
kōji), which are used to brew
shōchū and
awamori, have been used to brew sake since the 21st century. More breweries are also turning to older methods of production. For example, since the 21st century, the use of wooden tubs has increased again due to the development of sanitary techniques. The use of wooden tubs for fermentation has the advantage of allowing various
microorganisms living in the wood to affect sake, allowing more complex fermentation and producing sake with different characteristics. It is also known that the antioxidants contained in wood have a positive effect on sake. In December 2024, sake brewing (not sake itself) was recognized by
UNESCO as an
intangible cultural heritage.
Oldest sake brewery The oldest sake brewing company still in operation, as confirmed by historical documents, is the
Sudo Honke in
Kasama, Ibaraki, founded in 1141 during the
Heian period (794–1185).
Sudō Honke was also the first sake brewery to sell both
namazake and
hiyaoroshi.
Hiyaoroshi refers to sake that is finished in winter, pasteurized once in early spring, stored and aged for a little while during the summer, and shipped in the fall without being pasteurized a second time. In terms of excavated archaeological evidence, the oldest known sake brewery is from the 15th century near an area that was owned by
Tenryū-ji, in
Ukyō-ku, Kyoto. Unrefined sake was squeezed out at the brewery, and there are about 180 holes (60 cm wide, 20 cm deep) for holding storage jars. A hollow (1.8 meter wide, 1 meter deep) for a pot to collect drops of pressed sake and 14th-century
Bizen ware jars were also found. It is estimated to be utilized until the
Ōnin War (1467–1477). Sake was brewed at
Tenryū-ji during the
Muromachi period (1336–1573). ==Production==