Prehistory Human habitation at the site of Ulaanbaatar dates from the
Lower Paleolithic, with a number of sites on the
Bogd Khan, Buyant-Ukhaa and Songinokhairkhan mountains, revealing tools which date from 300,000 years ago to 40,000–12,000 years ago. These
Upper Paleolithic people hunted
mammoth and
woolly rhinoceros, the bones of which are found abundantly around Ulaanbaatar.
Before 1639 's 12th-century palace in Ulaanbaatar A number of
Xiongnu-era royal tombs have been discovered around Ulaanbaatar, including the tombs of Belkh Gorge near Dambadarjaalin monastery and tombs of Songinokhairkhan. Located on the banks of the
Tuul River, Ulaanbaatar has been well within the sphere of Turco-Mongol
nomadic empires throughout history.
Wang Khan, Toghrul of the
Keraites, a
Nestorian Christian monarch whom
Marco Polo identified as the legendary
Prester John, is said to have had his palace here (the Black Forest of the Tuul River) and forbade hunting in the holy mountain Bogd Uul. The palace is said to be where
Genghis Khan stayed with Yesui Khatun before attacking the
Tangut in 1226, though accounts of the Mongol invasion of Tangut are conflicted. During the
Mongol Empire (1206–1368) and
Northern Yuan dynasty (1368–1635), the main, natural route from the capital region of
Karakorum to the birthplace and tomb of the Khans in the Khentii mountain region (
Ikh Khorig) passed through the area of Ulaanbaatar. The Tuul River naturally leads to the north-side of Bogd Khan Mountain, which stands out as a large island of forest positioned conspicuously at the south-western edge of the Khentii mountains. As the main gate and stopover point on the route to and from the holy Khentii mountains, the Bogd Khan Mountain saw large amounts of traffic going past it and was protected from early times. Even after the Northern Yuan period it served as the location of the annual and triannual Assembly of Nobles (
Khan Uuliin Chuulgan).
Mobile monastery Founded in 1639 as a
yurt monastery as Örgöö (), the settlement was first located at Lake Shireet Tsagaan nuur ( directly east of the imperial capital Karakorum) in what is now
Burd sum,
Övörkhangai, around south-west from the present site of Ulaanbaatar, and was intended by the Mongol nobles to be the seat of
Zanabazar, the first
Jebtsundamba Khutughtu. Zanabazar returned to Mongolia from Tibet in 1651, and founded seven
aimags (monastic departments) in Urga, later establishing four more. As a mobile monastery-town, Örgöö was often moved to various places along the
Selenge,
Orkhon and Tuul rivers, as supply and other needs would demand. During the
Dzungar wars of the late 17th century, it was even moved to
Inner Mongolia. As the city grew, it moved less and less. The movements of the city can be detailed as follows: Shireet Tsagaan Nuur (1639), Khoshoo Tsaidam (1640), Khentii Mountains (1654), Ogoomor (1688), Inner Mongolia (1690), Tsetserlegiin Erdene Tolgoi (1700), Daagandel (1719), Usan Seer (1720), Ikh Tamir (1722), Jargalant (1723), Eeven Gol (1724), Khujirtbulan (1729), Burgaltai (1730), Sognogor (1732), Terelj (1733), Uliastai River (1734), Khui Mandal (1736), Khuntsal (1740), Udleg (1742), Ogoomor (1743), Selbe (1747), Uliastai River (1756), Selbe (1762), Khui Mandal (1772) and Selbe (1778). In 1778, the city moved from Khui Mandal and settled for good at its current location, near the confluence of the Selbe and Tuul rivers, and beneath
Bogd Khan Uul, at that time also on the caravan route from
Beijing to
Kyakhta. One of the earliest Western mentions of Urga is the account of the Scottish traveller
John Bell in 1721: By Zanabazar's death in 1723, Urga was Mongolia's preeminent monastery in terms of religious authority. A council of seven of the highest-ranking
lamas (
Khamba Nomon Khan,
Ded Khamba and five
Tsorj) made most of the city's religious decisions. It had also become Outer Mongolia's commercial centre. From 1733 to 1778, Urga moved around the vicinity of its present location. In 1754, the Erdene Shanzodba Yam of Urga was given authority to supervise the administrative affairs of the Bogd's subjects. It also served as the city's chief judicial court. In 1758, the Qianlong Emperor appointed the
Khalkha Vice General Sanzaidorj as the first Mongol
amban of Urga, with full authority to "oversee the Khuree and administer well all the
Khutugtu's subjects". In 1761, a second amban was appointed for the same purpose, a
Manchu one. A quarter-century later, in 1786, a decree issued in Peking gave right to the Urga ambans to decide the administrative affairs of
Tusheet Khan and Setsen Khan territories. With this, Urga became the highest civil authority in the country. Based on Urga's Mongol governor Sanzaidorj's petition, the
Qianlong Emperor officially recognized an annual ceremony on Bogd Khan Mountain in 1778 and provided the annual imperial donations. The city was the seat of the
Jebtsundamba Khutuktus, two
Qing ambans, and a
Chinese trade town grew "four trees" east of the city centre at the confluence of the Uliastai and Tuul rivers. By 1778, Urga may have had as many as ten thousand monks, who were regulated by a monastic rule, Internal Rule of the Grand Monastery or ''Yeke Kuriyen-u Doto'adu Durem''. For example, in 1797 a decree of the 4th Jebtsundamba forbade "singing, playing with archery, myagman, chess, usury and smoking"). Executions were forbidden where the holy temples of the Bogd Jebtsundama could be seen, so capital punishment took place away from the city. In 1839, the 5th Bogd Jebtsundamba moved his residence to Gandan Hill, an elevated position to the west of the Baruun Damnuurchin markets. Part of the city was moved to nearby Tolgoit. In 1855, the part of the camp that moved to Tolgoit was brought back to its 1778 location, and the 7th Bogd Jebtsundamba returned to the Zuun Khuree. The
Gandan Monastery flourished as a centre of philosophical studies.
Urga and the Kyakhta trade Following the
Treaty of Kyakhta in 1727, Urga (Ulaanbaatar) was a major point of the
Kyakhta trade between Russia and China – mostly Siberian furs for Chinese cloth and later tea. The route ran south to Urga, southeast across the
Gobi Desert to
Kalgan, and southeast over the mountains to Peking. Urga was also a collection point for goods coming from further west. These were either sent to China or shipped north to Russia via Kyakhta, because of legal restrictions and the lack of good trade routes to the west. By 1908, there was a Russian quarter with a few hundred merchants and a Russian club and informal Russian mayor. East of the main town was the Russian consulate, built in 1863, with an
Orthodox church, a post office and 20
Cossack guards. It was fortified in 1900 and briefly occupied by troops during the
Boxer Rebellion. There was a telegraph line north to Kyakhta and southeast to Kalgan and weekly postal service along these routes. Beyond the Russian consulate was the Chinese trading post called
Maimaicheng, and nearby the palace of the Manchu viceroy. With the growth of Western trade at the Chinese ports, the tea trade to Russia declined, some Chinese merchants left, and wool became the main export. Manufactured goods still came from Russia, but most were now brought from Kalgan by caravan. The annual trade was estimated at 25 million rubles, nine-tenths in Chinese hands and one-tenth in Russian. The Moscow trade expedition of the 1910s estimated the population of Urga at 60,000, based on
Nikolay Przhevalsky's study in the 1870s. The city's population swelled during the
Naadam festival and major religious festivals to more than 100,000. In 1919, the number of monks had reached 20,000, up from 13,000 in 1810. On 22 February 1921, the Bogd Khan was once again elevated to Great Khan of Mongolia in Urga. However, at the same time that Baron Ungern was taking control of Urga, a Soviet-supported Communist Mongolian force led by
Damdin Sükhbaatar was forming in Russia, and in March they crossed the border. Ungern and his men rode out in May to meet Red Russian and Red Mongolian troops, but suffered a disastrous defeat in June. In July 1921, the Communist Soviet-Mongolian army became the second conquering force in six months to enter Urga, and Mongolia came under the control of Soviet Russia. On 29 October 1924, the town was renamed
Ulaanbaatar. On the session of the 1st Great People's Khuraldaan of Mongolia in 1924, a majority of delegates had expressed their wish to change the capital city's name to
Baatar Khot (). However, under pressure from
Turar Ryskulov, a Kazakh Soviet activist of the
Communist International, the city was named
Ulaanbaatar Khot ().
Socialist era in the background During the
socialist period, especially following the
Second World War, most of the old
ger districts were replaced by
Soviet-style blocks of flats, often financed by the Soviet Union.
Urban planning began in the 1950s, and much of the city core today is a result of construction between 1960 and 1985. The
Trans-Mongolian Railway, connecting Ulaanbaatar with Moscow and Beijing, was completed in 1956, and cinemas, theaters, museums and other modern facilities were erected. Most of the temples and monasteries of pre-socialist Khüree were destroyed following the anti-religious
purges of the late 1930s. The
Gandan Monastery was reopened in 1944 when the
U.S. Vice President Henry Wallace asked to see a monastery during his visit to Mongolia.
Contemporary era Ulaanbaatar and chiefly
Sükhbaatar Square was a major site of demonstrations that led to Mongolia's
transition to democracy and market economy in 1990. Starting on 10 December 1989, protesters outside the Youth Culture Centre called for Mongolia to implement
perestroika and
glasnost in their full sense. After months of large-scale demonstrations and hunger strikes, the governing
Mongolian People's Revolutionary Party resigned on 9 March 1990. The provisional government announced Mongolia's
first free elections, which were held in July 1990, paving the way for the
new constitution of 1992 and the dissolution of the
Mongolian People's Republic. Since Mongolia's transition to a market economy in 1990, the city has experienced rapid growth. From a population of 535,000 in 1990, it had grown to 1 million inhabitants by 2007, and 1.5 million by 2021, or about half the entire country's population. Much of this rapid population rise is attributed to migration from rural areas, as herder families abandon their traditional lifestyles in search of opportunities in the city. Much of these new arrivals settle in
ger districts without plumbing, sanitation, central heating, and basic services. This rise in population, including the formation of new settlement areas, has not been accompanied with appropriate investment in infrastructure and services, hampering development and causing a myriad of problems. Ulaanbaatar was
the scene of riots in 2008 after supporters of the opposition parties disputed the ruling
Mongolian People's Revolutionary Party's claim of victory after the
parliamentary elections. A four-day state of emergency was declared, the capital was placed under a curfew, and alcohol sales banned with no further riots taking place. This was the first deadly riot in modern Ulaanbaatar's history. In April 2013, Ulaanbaatar hosted the 7th Ministerial Conference of the
Community of Democracies, and has also lent its name to the Ulaanbaatar Dialogue on Northeast Asian Security.
Chinggis Khaan International Airport in south of Ulaanbaatar was opened to the public on 4 July 2021 as the main airport of the city. Since the 2010s, Ulaanbaatar has seen a construction boom filling the city with high-rise offices and apartment blocks. the
Memorial Museum of Victims of Political Repression in October 2019, the
Natural History Museum in December 2019, Buildings #3 and #6 of the
National University of Mongolia, The main building of the
University of Finance and Economics in 2023, and Bumbugur. The 2019 Mongolian government budget originally included items for the demolition of a number of historic neoclassical buildings in the heart of Ulaanbaatar, including the
Natural History Museum,
Academic Theatre of Opera and Ballet,
Drama Theatre and
National Library. The decision was met by a public outcry and criticism from the Union of Mongolian Architects, which demanded that the buildings be preserved and restored.{{cite web|url=https://montsame.mn/en/read/212472 ==Geography==