In antiquity According to archaeologist
James Mellaart, a mural from the
Chalcolithic era (around 5600 BCE) in
Çatalhöyük,
Anatolia depicts a mother goddess astride two leopards wearing a costume somewhat like a bikini. The two-piece swimsuit can be traced back to the
Greco-Roman world, where bikini-like garments worn by women athletes are depicted on
urns and paintings dating back to 1400 BCE. In
Coronation of the Winner, a
mosaic in the floor of a
Roman villa in
Sicily that dates from the
Diocletian period (286–305 CE), young women participate in weightlifting, discus throwing, and running ball games dressed in bikini-like undergarments. The mosaic, found in the
Sicilian Villa Romana del Casale, features ten maidens who have been anachronistically dubbed the "
Bikini Girls". Other
Roman archaeological finds depict the goddess
Venus in a similar garment. In
Pompeii, depictions of Venus wearing a bikini were discovered in the Casa della Venere, in the
tablinum of the
House of Julia Felix, and in an
atrium garden of
Via Dell'Abbondanza.
Precursors in the West Swimming or bathing outdoors was discouraged in the
Christian West, so there was little demand or need for swimming or bathing costumes until the 18th century. The bathing gown of the 18th century was a loose ankle-length full-sleeve
chemise-type gown made of wool or flannel that retained coverage and modesty. In 1907, Australian swimmer and performer
Annette Kellermann was arrested on a
Boston beach for wearing form-fitting sleeveless one-piece knitted swimming tights that covered her from neck to toe, a costume she adopted from England, In 1913, designer
Carl Jantzen made the first functional two-piece swimwear. Inspired by the introduction of females into Olympic swimming he designed a close-fitting costume with shorts for the bottom and short sleeves for the top. During the 1920s and 1930s, people began to shift from "taking in the water" to "taking in the sun", at bathhouses and spas, and swimsuit designs shifted from functional considerations to incorporate more decorative features.
Rayon was used in the 1920s in the manufacture of tight-fitting swimsuits, but durability issues, especially when wet, proved problematic.
Jersey and
silk were also sometimes used. By the 1930s, manufacturers had lowered necklines in the back, removed sleeves, and tightened the sides. With the development of new clothing materials, particularly
latex and
nylon, swimsuits gradually began hugging the body through the 1930s, with shoulder straps that could be lowered for tanning. Women's swimwear of the 1930s and 1940s incorporated increasing degrees of
midriff exposure. The 1932 Hollywood film
Three on a Match featured a midriff-baring two-piece bathing suit. Actress
Dolores del Río was the first major star to wear a two-piece women's bathing suit onscreen in
Flying Down to Rio (1933). Teen magazines of late 1940s and 1950s featured similar designs of midriff-baring suits and tops. However, midriff fashion was stated as only for beaches and informal events and considered indecent to be worn in public. Hollywood endorsed the new glamor in films like 1949's ''
Neptune's Daughter'' in which
Esther Williams wore provocatively named costumes such as "Double Entendre" and "Honey Child". Wartime production during World War II required vast amounts of cotton, silk, nylon, wool, leather, and rubber. In 1942, the United States
War Production Board issued Regulation L-85,
cutting the use of natural fibers in clothing and mandating a 10% reduction in the amount of fabric in women's beachwear. At the same time, demand for all swimwear declined as there was not much interest in going to the beach, especially in Europe. and in an endeavor to resurrect swimwear sales, two French designers –
Jacques Heim and
Louis Réard – almost simultaneously launched new two-piece swimsuit designs in 1946. Heim launched a two-piece swimsuit design in Paris that he called the
atome, after the smallest known particle of matter. He announced that it was the "world's smallest bathing suit." Although briefer than the two-piece swimsuits of the 1930s, the bottom of Heim's new two-piece beach costume still covered the wearer's navel. Soon after, Louis Réard created a competing two-piece swimsuit design, which he called the
bikini. He noticed that women at the beach rolled up the edges of their swimsuit bottoms and tops to improve their tan. On 5 July, Réard introduced his design at a swimsuit review held at a popular Paris public pool,
Piscine Molitor, four days after the first test of a US nuclear weapon at the
Bikini Atoll. The newspapers were full of news about it and Réard hoped for the same with his design. Réard's
bikini undercut Heim's
atome in its brevity. His design consisted of two side-by-side triangles of fabric forming a bra, and two front-and-back triangular pieces of fabric covering the
mons pubis and the
buttocks, respectively, connected by string. When he was unable to find a fashion model willing to showcase his revealing design, Réard hired
Micheline Bernardini, an 18-year old
nude dancer from the
Casino de Paris. He announced that his swimsuit, was "smaller than the world's smallest bathing suit". Réard said that "like the [atom] bomb, the bikini is small and devastating". Fashion writer
Diana Vreeland described the bikini as the "atom bomb of fashion". French newspaper
Le Figaro wrote, "People were craving the simple pleasures of the sea and the sun. For women, wearing a bikini signaled a kind of second liberation. There was really nothing sexual about this. It was instead a celebration of freedom and a return to the joys in life." As competing designs emerged, he declared in advertisements that a swimsuit could not be a genuine bikini "unless it could be pulled through a wedding ring."
Social resistance bikini contest in
Jacksonville, Florida, 2009, featuring popular modern designs such as triangle tops and thong-style bottoms. Despite the garment's initial success in France, women worldwide continued to wear traditional one-piece swimsuits. When his sales stalled, Réard went back to designing and selling orthodox knickers. In 1950, American swimsuit mogul Fred Cole, Réard himself would later describe it as a "two-piece bathing suit which reveals everything about a girl except for her mother's maiden name." Fashion magazine
Modern Girl Magazine in 1957 stated that "it is hardly necessary to waste words over the so-called bikini since it is inconceivable that any girl with tact and decency would ever wear such a thing". a name Morley registered as a trademark. The winner was
Kiki Håkansson of Sweden, who was crowned in a bikini. After the crowning, Håkansson was condemned by
Pope Pius XII, while Spain and Ireland threatened to withdraw from the pageant. In 1952, bikinis were banned from the pageant and replaced by
evening gowns. As a result of the controversy, the bikini was explicitly banned from many other
beauty pageants worldwide. Although some regarded the bikini and beauty contests as bringing freedom to women, they were opposed by some
feminists as well as religious and cultural groups who objected to the degree of exposure of the female body.
Paula Stafford was an Australian fashion designer credited with introducing the bikini to Australia; in a famous incident in 1952, model Ann Ferguson was asked to leave a beach in
Surfers Paradise because her Paula Stafford bikini was too revealing. The bikini was banned in Australia, on the French Atlantic coastline, in Spain, in Italy, The
United States Motion Picture Production Code, also known as the Hays Code, enforced from 1934, allowed two-piece gowns but prohibited the display of navels in Hollywood films. The
National Legion of Decency, a Roman Catholic body overseeing American media content, also pressured Hollywood and foreign film producers to keep bikinis from being featured in Hollywood movies. As late as 1959 one of the United States' largest swimsuit designers, Anne Cole of the
Anne Cole brand, said, "It's nothing more than a G-string. It's at the razor's edge of decency." The Hays Code was abandoned by the mid-1960s, and with it the prohibition of female navel exposure, as well as other restrictions. The influence of the National Legion of Decency also waned by the 1960s.
Rise to popularity Increasingly common
glamour shots of popular actresses and models on either side of the Atlantic played a large part in bringing the bikini into the mainstream. During the 1950s, Hollywood stars such as
Ava Gardner,
Rita Hayworth,
Lana Turner,
Elizabeth Taylor, took advantage of the risqué publicity associated with the bikini by posing for photographs wearing them—
pin-ups of Hayworth and Williams in costume were especially widely distributed in the United States. In Europe, 17-year-old
Brigitte Bardot wore scanty bikinis (by contemporary standards) in the French film
Manina, la fille sans voiles ("Manina, the girl unveiled"). The promotion for the film, released in France in March 1953, drew more attention to Bardot's bikinis than to the film itself. By the time the film was released in the United States in 1958, it was re-titled
Manina, the Girl in the Bikini. Bardot was also photographed wearing a bikini on the beach during the 1957
Cannes Film Festival. Working with her husband and agent
Roger Vadim, she garnered significant attention with photographs of her wearing a bikini on every beach in the south of France. Similar photographs were taken of
Anita Ekberg and
Sophia Loren, among others. According to
The Guardian, Bardot's photographs in particular turned
Saint-Tropez into the beachwear capital of the world, Bardot's photography helped to enhance the public profile of the festival, and Cannes in turn played a crucial role in her career.
Brian Hyland's novelty-song hit "
Itsy Bitsy Teenie Weenie Yellow Polka Dot Bikini" became a
Billboard No. 1 hit during the summer of 1960: the song tells a story about a young girl who is too shy to wear her new bikini on the beach, thinking it too risqué.
Playboy first featured a bikini on its cover in 1962; the
Sports Illustrated Swimsuit Issue debut two years later featured
Babette March in a white bikini on the cover. This has been credited with making the bikini a legitimate piece of clothing.
Ursula Andress, appearing as
Honey Ryder in the 1962 British
James Bond film,
Dr. No, wore a
white bikini, which became known as the "
Dr. No bikini". It became one of the most famous bikinis of all time and an iconic moment in cinematic and fashion history. Andress said that she owed her career to that white bikini, remarking, "This bikini made me into a success. As a result of starring in
Dr. No as the first
Bond girl, I was given the freedom to take my pick of future roles and to become financially independent." The bikini finally caught on, and in 1963, the movie
Beach Party, starring
Annette Funicello and
Frankie Avalon, led a wave of films that made the bikini a pop-culture symbol, though Funicello was barred from wearing Réard's bikini unlike the other young women in the films. In 1965, a woman told
Time that it was "almost square" not to wear a bikini; the magazine wrote two years later that "65% of the young set had already gone over".
Raquel Welch's
fur bikini in
One Million Years B.C. (1966) was noted as an iconic moment in cinema and a "definitive look of the 1960s". It made Welch a fashion icon
DuPont introduced
lycra (
spandex), which enabled suits to fit like a second skin with simple construction and without heavy linings. This fabric allowed designers to create the
string bikini, and allowed Rudi Gernreich to create the topless monokini. Alternative swimwear fabrics such as
velvet,
leather, and
crocheted squares surfaced in the early '70s. four years after his death. Meanwhile, the bikini had become the most popular beachwear around the globe. According to French fashion historian Olivier Saillard, this was due to "the power of women, and not the power of fashion". Actresses in
action films like
Blue Crush (2002) and ''
Charlie's Angels: Full Throttle (2003) made the two-piece "the millennial equivalent of the power suit", according to Gina Bellafonte of The New York Times.'' The development of
swimwear from 1880 to the present is presented on 2,000 square metres of exhibition space. By 2017, the global swimwear market was valued at US$18,5 billion with a
compound annual growth rate of 6.2%. Part of the increased consumption of bikinis and swimwears can be attributed to
influencers who promote and endorse various brands around the year. Soccer player and best selling author
Mo Isom describes it as, "We're flooded with
Instagram bikini pics." It was estimated in 2016 that in 2019 the USA would be the largest swimwear market (US$10 billion), followed by Europe (US$5 billion),
Asia–Pacific (US$4 billion) and Middle East and Africa (about 1 billion). {{Gallery
Outside the Western world South Asia The 1967
Bollywood film
An Evening in Paris is mostly remembered because it featured actress
Sharmila Tagore as the first Indian actress to wear a bikini on film. She also posed in a bikini for the glossy
Filmfare magazine. The costume shocked a conservative Indian audience, but it also set in motion a trend carried forward by
Zeenat Aman in
Heera Panna (1973) and
Qurbani (1980), Indonesian actress
Nurnaningsih's bikini clad photos were widely distributed in early 1950s, though she was banned in
Kalimantan. Indian women generally wear bikinis when they vacation abroad or in
Goa without the family. But, despite the conservative ideas prevalent in India, bikinis also become more popular in summer when women, from
Bollywood stars to the middle class, take up swimming, often in a public space. A lot of
tankinis, shorts and
single-piece swimsuits are sold in the summer,
East Asia By the end of the first decade of the 21st century, the Chinese bikini industry became a serious international threat for the Brazilian bikini industry.
Huludao,
Liaoning, China set the world record for the largest bikini parade in 2012, with 1,085 participants and a photo shoot involving 3,090 women. "
Beijing bikini" refers to the Chinese urban practice of men rolling up their shirts to expose their midriff to cool off in public in the summer. In Japan, wearing a bikini is common on the beach and at baths or pools. But, according to a 2013 study, 94% women are not body confident enough to wear a bikini in public without resorting to
sarongs, zip-up
sweatshirts, T-shirts, or shorts. Japanese women also often wear a "
facekini" to protect their face from
sunburns.
Middle East In most parts of the
Middle East, bikinis are either banned or are highly controversial. On March 18, 1973, when
Lebanese magazine
Ash-Shabaka printed a bikini-clad woman on the cover, they had to make a second version with only the face of the model. In 2011, when
Huda Naccache (
Miss Earth 2011) posed for the cover of
Lilac (based in
Israel), she became the first bikini-clad Arab model on the cover of an Arabic magazine.
Lebanese-Australian fashion designer
Aheda Zanetti created the "
burkini" as a modest option to the bikini, which has become very popular among Muslims. Rehab Shaaban, an Egyptian designer, tried an even more
abaya-like design, but her design was banned due to safety reasons. == Variants ==