Departure meets
Chinooks on the
Lower Columbia in October 1805 (
Lewis and Clark on the Lower Columbia, painted by
Charles M. Russell, 1905). The Corps of Discovery departed from Camp Dubois (Camp Wood) at 4pm on May 14, 1804. Under Clark's command, they traveled up the Missouri River in their keelboat and two
pirogues to St. Charles, Missouri, where Lewis joined them six days later. The expedition set out the next afternoon, May 21. While accounts vary, it is believed the Corps had as many as 45 members, including the officers, enlisted military personnel, civilian volunteers, and
York, an
African-American man
enslaved by Clark. From St. Charles, the expedition followed the Missouri through what is now
Kansas City, Missouri, and
Omaha, Nebraska. On August 20, 1804, Sergeant
Charles Floyd died, apparently from acute
appendicitis. He had been among the first to sign up with the Corps of Discovery and was the only member to die during the expedition. He was buried at a bluff by the river, now
named after him, in what is now
Sioux City,
Iowa. His burial site was marked with a cedar post on which was inscribed his name and day of death. up the river, the expedition camped at a small river which they named
Floyd's River. During the final week of August, Lewis and Clark reached the edge of the
Great Plains, a place abounding with
elk,
deer,
bison,
pronghorn, and
beavers. The Lewis and Clark Expedition established relations with two dozen Native American nations, without whose help the group would have risked starvation during the harsh winters and/or become hopelessly lost in the vast ranges of the Rocky Mountains. The Americans and the
Lakota nation (whom the Americans called
Sioux or "Teton-wan Sioux") had problems when they met, and there was a concern the two sides might clash. According to Harry W. Fritz, "All earlier Missouri River travelers had warned of this powerful and aggressive tribe, determined to block free trade on the river. ... The Sioux were also expecting a retaliatory raid from the
Omaha tribe, to the south. A recent Sioux raid had killed 75 Omaha men, burned 40 lodges, and taken four dozen prisoners." The expedition held talks with the Lakota near the confluence of the Missouri and
Bad rivers in what is now
Fort Pierre, South Dakota. , Lewis and Clark Memorial Park, North Dakota One of their horses disappeared, and they believed the Sioux were responsible. Afterward, the two sides met and there was a disagreement, and the Sioux asked the men to stay or to give more gifts (or tribute) instead, before being allowed to pass through their territory. Clark wrote they were "warlike" and were the "vilest miscreants of the savage race". They came close to blows several times, until the Lakota chief, Black Buffalo, persuaded Lewis to distribute more tobacco to the assembled warriors. Lewis complied and the expedition was allowed to continue upstream to the
Arikara villages. In the winter of 1804–1805, the party built Fort Mandan, near present-day
Washburn, North Dakota. Just before departing on April 7, 1805, the expedition sent the
keelboat back to St. Louis with a sample of specimens, some never-before-seen east of the Mississippi. One chief asked Lewis and Clark to provide a boat for passage through their national territory. The Americans quickly continued westward (upriver), and camped for the winter in the
Mandan nation's territory. After the expedition had set up camp, nearby tribal members came to visit in fair numbers, with some staying overnight. For several days, Lewis and Clark met in council with Mandan chiefs. Here they met a French-Canadian fur trapper named
Toussaint Charbonneau, and his young
Shoshone wife,
Sacagawea. Charbonneau, at this time, began to serve as the expedition's translator. Peace was established between the expedition and the Mandan chiefs with the sharing of a Mandan
ceremonial pipe. By April 25, Captain Lewis wrote his progress report of the expedition's activities and observations of the Native American nations they had encountered to-date in
A Statistical view of the Indian nations inhabiting the Territory of Louisiana, which outlined the names of various tribes, their locations, trading practices and water routes used, among other points. President Jefferson would later present this report to Congress. at Ross Hole, September 4, 1805 They followed the Missouri to its headwaters, and over the
Continental Divide at Lemhi Pass, then north to
Traveler's Rest, and crossed the
Bitteroots at
Lolo Pass. They descended on foot, then proceeded in canoes down the
Clearwater,
Snake, and Columbia rivers, past
Celilo Falls and present-day
Portland, at the confluence of the
Willamette and Columbia rivers. Lewis and Clark used
William Robert Broughton's 1792 notes and maps to orient themselves once they reached the lower Columbia River. The sighting of
Mount Hood and other
stratovolcanos confirmed that the expedition had almost reached the Pacific Ocean.
Pacific Ocean reconstruction on the Columbia River near the Pacific Ocean The expedition sighted the Pacific Ocean for the first time on November 7, 1805, arriving two weeks later. The expedition faced the beginning of its second bitter winter camped on the north side of the Columbia River, in a storm-wracked area Clark called
Dismal Nitch. On November 24, 1805, the majority of the party voted to move their camp to the south side of the Columbia River near modern
Astoria, Oregon. Both Sacagawea and the enslaved York participated in the vote. On the south side of the Columbia River, upstream on the west side of the Netul River (now Lewis and Clark River), they constructed Fort Clatsop. During the winter at Fort Clatsop, Lewis committed himself to writing. He filled many pages of his journals with valuable knowledge, mostly about botany, because of the abundant growth and forests that covered that part of the continent. The health of the men also became a problem, with many suffering from colds and influenza. A Russian maritime expedition under statesman
Nikolai Rezanov arrived at the mouth of the Columbia River while Lewis and Clark were still there. Neither Rezanov nor Lewis and Clark knew about each other. Rezanov had come from
Novo-Arkhangelsk (today
Sitka, Alaska), intending to establish a Russian agricultural colony to help with the perennial food shortages in
Russian America, and made plans for a relocation of the capital of Russian America from Sitka to the lower Columbia River. But his ship,
Juno, was unable to cross the
Columbia Bar. So Rezanov went to California instead, setting in motion a process that eventually led to the founding of
Fort Ross, California.
Return trip Lewis was determined to remain at the fort until April 1, but was still anxious to move out at the earliest opportunity. By March 22, the stormy weather had subsided and the following morning, on March 23, 1806, the journey home began. The Corps began their journey homeward using canoes to ascend the Columbia River, and later by trekking over land. Before leaving, Clark gave the Chinook a letter to give to the next ship captain to visit, which was the same Captain Hill who had been nearby during the winter. Hill took the letter to
Canton and had it forwarded to Thomas Jefferson, who thus received it before Lewis and Clark returned. Once together, the Corps was able to return home quickly via the Missouri River. They reached St. Louis on September 23, 1806.
Spanish interference In March 1804, before the expedition began in May, the Spanish in
New Mexico learned from General
James Wilkinson that the Americans were encroaching on territory claimed by Spain. After the Lewis and Clark expedition set off in May, the Spanish sent four armed expeditions of 52 soldiers, mercenaries, and Native Americans on August 1, 1804, from
Santa Fe, New Mexico, northward under
Pedro Vial and José Jarvet to intercept Lewis and Clark and imprison the entire expedition. They reached the
Pawnee settlement on the
Platte River in central Nebraska and learned that the expedition had been there many days before. Vial's attempt to intercept them was unsuccessful. == Geography and science ==