Indigenous peoples The Pacific Northwest has been occupied by a diverse array of
indigenous peoples for millennia. The Pacific Coast is seen by some scholars as a major
coastal migration route in the
settlement of the Americas by late Pleistocene peoples moving from northeast Asia into the Americas. The coastal migration hypothesis has been bolstered by findings such as the report that the sediments in the Port Eliza Cave on
Vancouver Island indicate the possibility of survivable climate as far back as 16
kya (16,000 years ago) in the area, while the continental ice sheets were nearing their maximum extent. Other evidence for human occupation dating back as much as 14.5 kya (14,500 years ago) is emerging from
Paisley Caves in south-central Oregon . However, despite such research, the coastal migration hypothesis is still subject to considerable debate. Due in part to the richness of Pacific Northwest Coast and river fisheries, some of the indigenous peoples developed complex
sedentary societies, while remaining
hunter-gatherers. The Pacific Northwest Coast is one of the few places where politically complex hunter-gatherers evolved and survived to historic contacts, and therefore has been vital for anthropologists and archaeologists seeking to understand how complex hunter and gatherer societies function. When Europeans first arrived on the Northwest Coast, they found one of the world's most complex hunting and fishing societies, with large sedentary villages, large houses, systems of social rank and prestige, extensive trade networks, and many other factors more commonly associated with societies based on domesticated agriculture. In the interior of the Pacific Northwest, the indigenous peoples, at the time of European contact, had a diversity of cultures and societies. Some areas were home to mobile and egalitarian societies. Others, especially along major rivers such as the Columbia and Fraser, had very complex, affluent, sedentary societies rivaling those of the coast. In British Columbia and Southeast Alaska, the
Haida and
Tlingit erected large and elaborately carved
totem poles that have become iconic of Pacific Northwest artistic traditions. Throughout the Pacific Northwest, thousands of indigenous people live, and some continue to practice their rich cultural traditions, "organizing their societies around cedar and salmon".
Initial European exploration Sailing for the Spanish Crown, Portuguese navigator
Juan Rodríguez Cabrillo became in 1542 the first European to explore the west coast of today's United States and reached as far as Punta del Año Nuevo, north of
Monterrey.
Bartolomé Ferrer continued on and may have reached as far north as the
Rogue River on the Oregon coast. By 1579, English captain and erstwhile
privateer Francis Drake sailed up the west coast of North America during the course of his
circumnavigation undertaking. Drake may have reached as far North as 48N and may have conducted some preliminary assessments of the western entry channels to the
Northwest Passage under royal secrecy order. He then headed back south to land, to careen the ship, to rest and to continue on the undertaking. Drake and his crew eventually found a protected cove where they landed, in either the Pacific Northwest or Northern California. Contacts with a local indigenous population were established over the course of several weeks. While ashore, Drake claimed the area for Queen Elizabeth I as Nova Albion or
New Albion. Various theories regarding the landing location of New Albion in the northern Pacific have been proposed, including the one recognized by the United States National Historic Landmark and California Historical Landmarks at
Point Reyes National Seashore. By 1589,
Ortelius was publishing the
Maris Pacifici first ever Pacific map featuring on the west coast of North-America a first ever representation of two major coastline features: the mouth of the
Columbia River identified as
"Rio Grande" and the delta of the Fraser River labeled
"Baia de las isleas".
Juan de Fuca, a
Greek captain sailing for the
Crown of Spain, supposedly found the
Strait of Juan de Fuca around 1592. The strait was named for him, but whether he discovered it or not has long been questioned. During the early 1740s,
Imperial Russia sent the Danish-born Russian
Vitus Bering to the region. By the late 18th century and into the mid-19th century, Russian settlers had established several posts and communities on the northwest Pacific coast, eventually reaching as far south as
Fort Ross, California. The
Russian River was named after this local presence and three ranch outposts located alongside. In 1774, the viceroy of
New Spain sent Spanish navigator
Juan Pérez in the ship
Santiago to the Pacific Northwest. Peréz made landfall on
Haida Gwaii (Queen Charlotte Islands) on July 18, 1774. The northernmost latitude he reached was
54°40′ N. This was followed, in 1775, by another Spanish expedition, under the command of
Bruno de Heceta and including Juan Peréz and
Juan Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra as officers. On July 14, 1775, they landed on the
Olympic Peninsula near the mouth of the
Quinault River. On August 17, 1775, Heceta, returning south, sighted the mouth of the
Columbia River and named it
Bahia de la Asunción. While Heceta sailed south, Quadra continued north in the expedition's second ship,
Sonora, reaching
Alaska, at
59° N. In 1778 English mariner
Captain James Cook visited
Nootka Sound on Vancouver Island and also voyaged as far as
Prince William Sound. In 1779, a third Spanish expedition, under the command of
Ignacio de Artega in the ship
Princesa, and with Quadra as captain of the ship
Favorite, sailed from Mexico to the coast of Alaska, reaching
61° N. Two further Spanish expeditions, in 1788 and 1789, both under
Esteban Jose Martínez and
Gonzalo López de Haro, sailed to the Pacific Northwest. During the second expedition, they met the American captain
Robert Gray near
Nootka Sound. Upon entering Nootka Sound, they found
William Douglas and his ship
Iphigenia. Conflict led to the
Nootka Crisis, which was resolved by agreements known as the
Nootka Convention. In 1790, the Spanish sent three ships to Nootka Sound, under the command of
Francisco de Eliza. After establishing a base at Nootka, Eliza sent out several exploration parties.
Salvador Fidalgo was sent north to the Alaska coast.
Manuel Quimper, with Gonzalo López de Haro as pilot, explored the Strait of Juan de Fuca, discovering the
San Juan Islands and
Admiralty Inlet in the process. Francisco de Eliza himself took the ship
San Carlos into the Strait of Juan de Fuca. From a base at
Port Discovery, his
pilotos (
masters)
José María Narváez and
Juan Carrasco explored the San Juan Islands,
Haro Strait,
Rosario Strait, and
Bellingham Bay. In the process, they discovered the
Strait of Georgia and explored it as far north as
Texada Island. The expedition returned to Nootka Sound by August 1791.
Alessandro Malaspina, sailing for Spain, explored and mapped the coast from
Yakutat Bay to Prince William Sound in 1791, then sailed to Nootka Sound. Performing a scientific expedition in the manner of James Cook, Malaspina's scientists studied the
Tlingit and
Nuu-chah-nulth peoples before returning to Mexico. Another Spanish explorer,
Jacinto Caamaño, sailed the ship
Aranzazu to Nootka Sound in May 1792. There he met Quadra, who was in command of the Spanish settlement and
Fort San Miguel. Quadra sent Caamaño north, to carefully explore the coast between Vancouver Island and
Bucareli Bay, Alaska. Various Spanish maps, including Caamaño's, were given to George Vancouver in 1792, as the Spanish and British worked together to chart the complex coastline. They met Vancouver in the Strait of Georgia on June 21, 1792. Vancouver had explored Puget Sound just previously. The Spanish explorers knew of Admiralty Inlet and the unexplored region to the south, but they decided to sail north. They discovered and entered the
Fraser River shortly before meeting Vancouver. After sharing maps and agreeing to cooperate, Galiano, Valdés, and Vancouver sailed north to
Desolation Sound and the
Discovery Islands, charting the coastline together. They passed through Johnstone Strait and
Cordero Channel and returned to Nootka Sound. As a result, the Spanish explorers, who had set out from Nootka, became the first Europeans to circumnavigate Vancouver Island. Vancouver himself had entered the Strait of Juan de Fuca directly without going to Nootka first, so had not sailed completely around the island.
Maritime fur trader
Charles William Barkley also visited the area in
Imperial Eagle, a British ship falsely flying the flag of the
Austrian Empire. American merchant sea-captain
Robert Gray traded along the coast, and discovered the mouth of the
Columbia River.
Continental crossover exploration Explorer
Alexander Mackenzie completed in 1793 the first continental crossing in what is called today central
British Columbia and reached the
Pacific Ocean.
Simon Fraser explored and mapped the
Fraser River from Central British Columbia down to its mouth in 1808. And mapmaker
David Thompson explored in 1811 the entire route of the Columbia River from its northern headwaters all the way to its mouth. These explorations were commissioned by the
North West Company and were all undertaken with small teams of
Voyageurs. United States President
Thomas Jefferson commissioned the
Lewis and Clark Expedition to travel through the Midwest starting from
St. Louis, cross the
Continental Divide and reach the Columbia River up to its mouth. Americans reached the
Pacific Ocean "overland" in 1805. The
Pacific Fur Company sent in 1811 an "over-lander" crew including a large contingent of
Voyageurs to retrace most of the path of the earlier expedition up to the mouth of the Columbia and join the company ship. The
Tonquin came oversea via
Cape Horn to build and operate
Fort Astoria. These early land expeditions mapped the way for subsequent land explorations and building early settlements.
Subsequent land explorations The
Willamette River was the first PNW inland waterway to be explored north–south during trapping expeditions carried out throughout the 1810s by the
Pacific Fur Company soon acquired by the
North West Company (NWC). During the 1820s, the upper Willamette, the
Umpqua, the
Rogue, the
Klamath were all reached still heading southward up toward the
Sacramento River and
California under the
Hudson's Bay Company (HBC) having now itself acquired the NWC. The
Siskiyou Trail was gradually being established by
Alexander Roderick McLeod and
Peter Skene Ogden leading related expeditions for the HBC. Also during the 1820s, HBC explorations were carried out northward originating from the
Columbia River Fort Astoria long renamed to Fort George. Simon Plamondon first ventured during the early 20s into the
Cowlitz River up to
Cowlitz Prairie. By 1824, an expedition led by
James McMillan was reaching
Puget Sound via the
Chehalis River (Washington) and a portage. The same expedition went on all the way to
Boundary Bay and reached the
Fraser River via the
Nicomekl and the
Salmon linked via a portage. The lower Fraser was revisited 16 years after explorer
Simon Fraser (NWC) had first reached its mouth, although originating from northern present-day
British Columbia. Puget Sound soon after would get reached via the Cowlitz and the Cowlitz Landing portage, but originating from new HBC headquarter
Fort Vancouver located closer by, north of the Columbia.
Early settlements ), the capital of Russian America Noteworthy Russian settlements still in place include:
Unalaska (1774),
Kodiak (1791), and
Sitka (1804) making them the oldest permanent non-Indigenous settlements in the Pacific Northwest. Temporary Spanish settlement
Santa Cruz de Nuca (1789–1795) held on a few years at
Nootka Sound. Other early occupation non-Indigenous settlements of interest, either long lasting or still in place, built and operated by either the
North West Company, the
Pacific Fur Company or the
Hudson's Bay Company include:
Fort Saint-James (1806; oldest in British Columbia west of the Rockies),
Fort Astoria (1811; oldest in Oregon),
Fort Nez Percés (1818),
Fort Alexandria (1821),
Fort Vancouver (1824),
Fort Langley (1827; oldest in southern British Columbia),
Fort Nisqually (1833), and
Fort Victoria (1843). Also of interest are the first mixed ancestry settlements sometimes referred as Métis settlements or French Canadian settlements. Native and newly arrived "half-breeds" (born out of "Europeans" and Indigenous alliances), local and newly arrived Indigenous people as well as "French Canadians" all issued of the fur trade were all able to peacefully coexist. Small scale farming occurred. Catholic missions and churches thrived for many years. These first settlements were:
French Prairie,
Frenchtown near Walla Walla,
Cowlitz Prairie (Washington),
French Settlement (Oregon) and
Frenchtown near Missoula. Most mixed ancestry people ended up resettled in or around Indigenous reserves during the subsequent period, or otherwise assimilating in the mainstream.
Boundary disputes ' 1841 Map of the
Oregon Territory from "Narrative of the United States Exploring Expedition". Philadelphia: 1845 Initial formal claims to the region were asserted by Spain in 1513 with explorer
Nuñez de Balboa, the first European to sight the Pacific Ocean from the Americas. Russian
maritime fur trade activity, through the
Russian-American Company, extended from the farther side of the Pacific to
Russian America. This prompted Spain to send expeditions north to assert Spanish ownership, while Captain James Cook and subsequent expeditions by George Vancouver advanced British claims. As of the
Nootka Sound Conventions, the last in 1794, Spain gave up its exclusive a priori claims and agreed to share the region with the other
powers, giving up its garrison at Nootka Sound in the process. The United States established a claim based on the discoveries of
Robert Gray, the
Lewis and Clark Expedition, the construction of Fort Astoria, and the acquisition of Spanish claims given to the United States in the
Adams–Onís Treaty. From the 1810s until the 1840s, modern-day Washington, Oregon, Idaho, and western Montana, along with most of British Columbia, were part of what the United States called the
Oregon Country and Britain called the
Columbia District. This region was jointly claimed by the United States and Great Britain after the
Treaty of 1818, which established a co-dominion of interests in the region in lieu of a settlement. In 1840, American
Charles Wilkes explored in the area.
John McLoughlin, Chief Factor of the
Hudson's Bay Company, headquartered at Fort Vancouver, was the
de facto local political authority for most of this time. This arrangement ended as U.S. settlement grew and President
James K. Polk was elected on a platform of calling for annexation of the entire Oregon Country and of Texas. After his election, supporters coined the famous slogan "Fifty-four Forty or Fight", referring to
54°40′ north latitude—the northward limit of the United States' claim. After a war scare with the United Kingdom, the
Oregon boundary dispute was settled in the 1846
Oregon Treaty, partitioning the region along the
49th parallel and resolving most, but not all, of the border disputes (see
Pig War). The mainland territory north of the 49th parallel remained unincorporated until 1858, when a mass influx of Americans and others during the
Fraser Canyon Gold Rush forced the hand of
Colony of Vancouver Island's Governor
James Douglas, who declared the mainland a
Crown colony. The two colonies were amalgamated in 1866 to cut costs, and joined the
Dominion of Canada in 1871. The U.S. portion became the
Oregon Territory in 1848. It was later subdivided into Oregon Territory and
Washington Territory. These territories became the states of Oregon, Idaho, Washington and parts of other Western states. During the
American Civil War, British Columbia officials pushed for London to invade and conquer the Washington Territory in effort to take advantage of Americans being distracted in the war on the Eastern region. This was rejected, as the UK did not wish to risk war with the United States, whose forces were better prepared and trained much more than the British troops. American expansionist pressure on British Columbia persisted after the colony became a province of Canada, even though Americans living in the province did not harbor
annexationist inclinations. The
Fenian Brotherhood openly organized and drilled in Washington, particularly in the 1870s and the 1880s, though no cross-border attacks were experienced. During the
Alaska Boundary Dispute, U.S. President
Teddy Roosevelt threatened to invade and annex British Columbia if Britain would not yield on the question of the
Yukon ports. In more recent times, during the so-called "
Salmon War" of the 1990s, Washington Senator
Slade Gorton called for the
U.S. Navy to "force" the
Inside Passage, even though it is not an official international waterway. Disputes between British Columbia and Alaska over the
Dixon Entrance of the
Hecate Strait between
Prince Rupert and
Haida Gwaii have not been resolved. ==Geology==