People's hairstyles are largely determined by the fashions of the culture they live in. Hairstyles are markers and signifiers of social class, age,
marital status, racial identification, political beliefs, and attitudes about gender. Some people may cover their hair totally or partially for cultural or religious reasons. Notable examples of head covering include women in Islam who wear the
hijab, married women in
Haredi Judaism who wear the
sheitel or
tichel, married
Himba men who cover their hair except when in mourning,
Tuareg men who wear a veil, and men and women in
Sikhism who wear the
dastar, whether baptized or not, as a symbol of their faith and cultural identity.
Paleolithic The oldest known reproduction of hair
braiding lies back about 30,000 years: the
Venus of Willendorf, now known in academia as the Woman of Willendorf, of a female
figurine from the
Paleolithic, estimated to have been made between about 28,000 and 25,000 BC. The
Venus of Brassempouy counts about 25,000 years old and indisputably shows hairstyling. File:Venus von Willendorf 01.jpg|The
Venus of Willendorf with braided hair File:Venus of Brassempouy.jpg|The
Venus of Brassempouy Bronze Age In the
Bronze Age, razors were known and in use by some men, but not on a daily basis since the procedure was rather unpleasant and required resharpening of the tool which reduced its endurance. File:Reconstructed sumerian headgear necklaces british museum.JPG|Reconstructed headgear of
Puabi, the First Dynasty of Ur, circa 2500 BC,
Early Dynastic period III File:Meskalamdug helmet British Museum electrotype copy original is in the Iraq Museum, Bagdad.jpg|Golden helmet imitating hairstyle, the First Dynasty of Ur, circa 2500 BC, Early Dynastic period III File:Sumerian portrait statuette of a woman 02.jpg|Sumerian portrait statuette of a woman File:Statue from Khafajah, female worshiper.jpg|Sumerian statue from Khafajah, female worshiper File:Egyptian lute players 001.jpg|Egyptian women with braided hair and ornamental headdress, circa 1350 BC
Ancient history In ancient civilizations, women's hair was often elaborately and carefully dressed in special ways. Women coloured their hair, curled it, and pinned it up (ponytail) in a variety of ways. For waves and curls, they used wet clay, which they dried in the sun before combing out, or they used a jelly made from
quince seeds soaked in water. Additionally, various kinds of
curling tongs and
curling irons were popular tools for hair styling. Hairstyles in ancient Korea and Japan were influenced by Chinese hairstyles. For instance, the ''chu'kye
style worn in Koguryo was similar in style and head placement as the chu'kye'' style in China. The hairstyles were characterized by the large topknots on women's heads. Also, hairstyles were used as an expression of beauty, social status, and marital status. It was augmented by wigs, hairpieces and pads, and held in place by nets, pins, combs and pomade. Under the
Byzantine Empire, noblewomen covered most of their hair with silk caps and pearl nets. From the time of the Roman Empire until the Middle Ages, most women grew their hair as long as it would naturally grow. It was normally styled through cutting, as women's hair was tied up on the head and covered on most occasions when outside the home by using a
snood,
kerchief or
veil; for an adult woman to wear uncovered and loose hair in the street was often restricted to prostitutes. Braiding and tying the hair was common. In the 16th century, women began to wear their hair in extremely ornate styles, often decorated with pearls, precious stones, ribbons, and veils. Women used a technique called "lacing" or "taping," in which cords or ribbons were used to bind the hair around their heads. During this period, most of the hair was braided and hidden under
wimples, veils or
couvrechefs. In the later half of the 15th century and on into the 16th century, a very high hairline on the forehead was considered attractive, and wealthy women frequently plucked out hair at their temples and the napes of their necks, or used
depilatory cream to remove it, if it would otherwise be visible at the edges of their hair coverings. Working-class women in this period wore their hair in simple styles. In the early 17th century male hairstyles grew longer, with waves or curls being considered desirable in upper-class European men. The male wig was supposedly pioneered by King
Louis XIII of France (1601–1643) in 1624 when he had prematurely begun to bald. This fashion was largely promoted by his son and successor
Louis XIV of France (1638–1715) that contributed to its spread in
European and European-influenced countries. The
beard had been in a long decline and now disappeared among the upper classes. Perukes or periwigs for men were introduced into the English-speaking world with other French styles when
Charles II was
restored to the throne in 1660, following a lengthy exile in France. These wigs were shoulder-length or longer, imitating the long hair that had become fashionable among men since the 1620s. Their use soon became popular in the English court. The London diarist
Samuel Pepys recorded the day in 1665 that a
barber had shaved his head and that he tried on his new periwig for the first time, but in a year of
plague he was uneasy about wearing it:3rd September 1665: Up, and put on my coloured silk suit, very fine, and my new periwig, bought a good while since, but darst not wear it because the plague was in
Westminster when I bought it. And it is a wonder what will be the fashion after the plague is done as to periwigs, for nobody will dare to buy any hair for fear of the infection? That it had been cut off the heads of people dead of the plague. Late 17th-century wigs were very long and wavy (see George I below), but became shorter in the mid-18th century, by which time they were normally white (George II). A very common style had a single stiff curl running round the head at the end of the hair. By the late 18th century the natural hair was often powdered to achieve the impression of a short wig, tied into a small tail or "queue" behind (George III). Short hair for fashionable men was a product of the
Neoclassical movement. Classically inspired male hair styles included the
Bedford Crop, arguably the precursor of most plain modern male styles, which was invented by the radical politician
Francis Russell, 5th Duke of Bedford as a protest against a
tax on hair powder; he encouraged his friends to adopt it by betting them they would not. Another influential style (or group of styles) was named by the French "
coiffure à la Titus" after
Titus Junius Brutus (not in fact the Roman Emperor
Titus as often assumed), with hair short and layered but somewhat piled up on the crown, often with restrained quiffs or locks hanging down; variants are familiar from the hair of both
Napoleon and
George IV. The style was supposed to have been introduced by the actor
François-Joseph Talma, who upstaged his wigged co-actors when appearing in productions of works such as
Voltaire's
Brutus (about
Lucius Junius Brutus, who orders the execution of his son Titus). In 1799, a Parisian fashion magazine reported that even bald men were adopting Titus wigs, and the style was also worn by women, the
Journal de Paris reporting in 1802 that "more than half of elegant women were wearing their hair or wig
à la Titus". In the early 19th century the male beard, and also
moustaches and
sideburns, made a strong reappearance, associated with the
Romantic movement, and all remained very common until the 1890s, after which younger men ceased to wear them, with
World War I, when the majority of men in many countries saw military service, finally despatching the full beard except for older men retaining the styles of their youth, and those affecting a
Bohemian look. The short military-style moustache remained popular.
Female styles , about 1628 with pouf hairstyle woman dressing hair, ca. 1900 From the 16th to the 19th century, European women's hair became more visible while their hair coverings grew smaller, with both becoming more elaborate, and with hairstyles beginning to include ornamentation such as flowers, ostrich plumes, ropes of pearls, jewels, ribbons and small crafted objects such as replicas of ships and windmills. Bound hair was felt to be symbolic of propriety: loosening one's hair was considered immodest and sexual, and sometimes was felt to have supernatural connotations. Red hair was popular, particularly in England during the reign of the red-haired
Elizabeth I, and women and aristocratic men used
borax,
saltpeter,
saffron and
sulfur powder to dye their hair red, making themselves nauseated and giving themselves headaches and nosebleeds. During this period in Spain and Latin cultures, women wore lace
mantillas, often worn over a high comb, and in
Buenos Aires, there developed a fashion for extremely large tortoise-shell hair combs called
peinetón, which could measure up to three feet in height and width, and which are said by historians to have reflected the growing influence of France, rather than Spain, upon Argentinians. In the middle of the 18th century the
pouf style developed, with women creating volume in the hair at the front of the head, usually with a pad underneath to lift it higher, and ornamented the back with seashells, pearls or gemstones. In 1750, women began dressing their hair with perfumed pomade and powdering it white. Just before World War I, some women began wearing silk turbans over their hair. Japanese men began cutting their hair into styles known as or (which roughly means "random cropping"). During this period, Japanese women were still wearing
traditional hairstyles held up with
combs, pins, and sticks crafted from tortoise, metal, wood and other materials, In Europe and the US the bob was seen as a step towards women's liberation. Women began
marcelling their hair, creating deep waves in it using heated scissor irons. Durable
permanent waving became popular also in this period: it was an expensive, uncomfortable and time-consuming process, in which the hair was put in
curlers and inserted into a steam or dry heat machine. During the 1930s women began to wear their hair slightly longer, in
pageboys, bobs or waves and curls.
Post-war years After the war, women started to wear their hair in softer, more natural styles. In the early 1950s women's hair was generally curled and worn in a variety of styles and lengths. In the later 1950s, high
bouffant and
beehive styles, sometimes nicknamed
B-52s for their similarity to the bulbous noses of the
B-52 Stratofortress bomber, became popular. During this period many women washed and set their hair only once a week, and kept it in place by wearing
curlers every night and reteasing and respraying it every morning. In the 1960s, many women began to wear their hair in short modern cuts such as the
pixie cut, while in the 1970s, hair tended to be longer and looser. In both the 1960s and 1970s many men and women wore their hair very long and straight. Long, natural hair was also worn due to the emergence of
counterculture movements such as that of the
hippies who used such styles to symbolize their opposition to the norm. From the 1950s onward, various groups have pushed the norms for hairstyles as symbols of their unique ideology or identity. The
Skinheads, who opposed the hippies, shaved off much of their hair. The
punks of the later 1970s, meanwhile, wanted to cause outrage, styling their hair in unique ways (such as the
mohawk) and dyeing it in unnatural shades. Since the 1960s and 1970s, women have worn their hair in a wide variety of styles. Part of this came from the "Black is Beautiful" movement which promoted the natural beauty of the Black population as opposed to what some considered a Eurocentric model. Some critics argue that straightening or relaxing African hair is trying to conform to a white standard of beauty. However, there are those that disagree with this belief. Nevertheless, Malcolm X advised against Black people straightening their hair for such reasons. Black hair then became not only an act of beauty but an act of revolution. However, the Afro, or "the natural", as it was first called, was not originally a political choice, but a style favored by both artistic and intellectual Black communities in the 1940s and 1950s. This is somewhat less true of African-American men, who wear their hair in a variety of styles that overlap with those of African-American women, including
box braids and
cornrows fastened with rubber bands and dreadlocks. In the 1980s, women pulled back their hair with
scrunchies, stretchy ponytail holders made from cloth over fabric bands. Women also often wear glittery ornaments today, as well as claw-style
barrettes used to secure
ponytails and other upswept or partially upswept hairstyles. The 1980s in America also were a time of noted turmoil between hair choices. Tensions arose particularly between hair choices from women of color, and the workplace as noted by court cases such as
Rogers v. American Airlines which upheld employers rights to ban certain hairstyles in the workplace, notably braided hairstyles. Additional instances of USPS, hotel chains, police departments and another industries banning hairstyles common within the Black American community such as braids, colored hair, and dreadlocks from the workplace during this period. ==Defining factors==