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Hokkaido

Hokkaido is the second-largest and northernmost of Japan's four main islands. Together with its surrounding islands, it comprises the largest and northernmost prefecture, making up its own region. The Tsugaru Strait separates Hokkaido from Honshu. The two islands are connected by railway via the Seikan Tunnel.

Names
in Chūō-ku, Sapporo When establishing the Development Commission, the Meiji government decided to change the name of Ezochi. Matsuura Takeshirō submitted six proposals, including names such as and , to the government. The government eventually decided to use the name Hokkaido, but decided to write it as , as a compromise between and because of the similarity with names such as . According to Matsuura, the name was thought up because the Ainu called the region Kai. The kai element also strongly resembles the On'yomi, or Sino-Japanese, reading of the characters (''on'yomi as [, カイ], kun'yomi'' as [, えみし]), which have been used for over a thousand years in China and Japan as the standard orthographic form to be used when referring to Ainu and related peoples. It is possible that Matsuura's kai was actually an alteration, influenced by the Sino-Japanese reading of Ka-i, of the Nivkh exonym for the Ainu, namely Qoy (). In 1947, Hokkaido became a full-fledged prefecture. The historical suffix 道 (-dō) translates to "prefecture" in English, ambiguously the same as 府 (-fu) for Osaka and Kyoto, and 県 (-ken) for the rest of the prefectures. , as shorthand, can be used to uniquely identify Hokkaido, for example as in 道道 (dōdō, "Hokkaido road") or 道議会 (Dōgikai, "Hokkaido Assembly"), the same way 都 (-to) is used for Tokyo. The prefecture's government calls itself the "Hokkaido Government" rather than the "Hokkaido Prefectural Government". With the rise of indigenous rights movements, there emerged a notion that Hokkaido should have an Ainu-language name. If a decision to change the name is made, however, whichever Ainu phrase is chosen, its original referent is critically different from the large geographical entity. The phrase () has been a preferred choice among Japanese activists. Its primary meaning is the "land of the humans", as opposed to the "land of the gods" (). When contrasted with ("land of the neighbors", often pointing to Honshu or Japanese settlements on the southern tip of Hokkaido), it means the land of the Ainu people, which, depending on context, can refer to Hokkaido, although from a modern ethnolinguistic point of view, the Ainu people have extended their domain to a large part of Sakhalin and the entire Kuril Islands. Another phrase, ' (ヤウン モシㇼ), has gained prominence; it literally means the "onshore land", as opposed to the "offshore land" (), which, depending on context, can refer to the Kuril Islands, Honshu, or any foreign country. If the speaker is a resident of Hokkaido, ' can refer to Hokkaido. Yet another phrase, () means "our (inclusive) land", and when used by Hokkaido Ainus, it can refer to Hokkaido or Japan as a whole. ==History==
History
Early history During the Jōmon period, the local culture and the associated hunter-gatherer lifestyle flourished in Hokkaido, beginning over 15,000 years ago. In contrast to the island of Honshu, Hokkaido experienced no conflict during this period. Jomon beliefs in natural spirits are theorized to have given rise to Ainu spirituality. About 2,000 years ago, the island was colonized by Yayoi people, and much of the island's population shifted away from hunting and gathering towards agriculture. The Ebetsu Kofun Cluster is a group of mounds dating from the latter half of the 8th century to the middle of the 9th century, and was surveyed by Juichi Goto in 1931. Along with the kofun, or 'Emishi sword', magatama, and Sue pottery were discovered. Ebetsu Kofun is evidence for the presence of the Yamato people and trade between Hokkaido and Honshu before the eras of feudal Japan. The , finished in 720, is often said to be the first mention of Hokkaido in recorded history. According to the text, Abe no Hirafu led a large navy and army to the northern areas from 658 to 660 and came into contact with the Mishihase and Emishi. One of the places Hirafu visited was , which is often believed to be present-day Hokkaido. However, many theories exist regarding the details of this event, including the location of Watarishima and the widely held belief that the Emishi of Watarishima were the ancestors of the present-day Ainu people. During the Nara and Heian periods (710–1185), people in Hokkaido conducted trade with Dewa Province, an outpost of the Japanese central government. From the feudal period, the people in Hokkaido began to be called Ezo. Hokkaido subsequently became known as or . The indigenous people of Ezochi mainly relied upon hunting and fishing and obtained rice and iron through trade with the Japanese. Feudal Japan in 1751. Ainu bringing gifts (cf. omusha) During the Muromachi period (1336–1573), the Japanese established a settlement at the south of the Oshima Peninsula, with a series of fortified residences such as that of Shinoridate. As more people moved to the settlement to avoid battles, disputes arose between the Japanese and the Ainu. The disputes eventually developed into a war. In 1457, Takeda Nobuhiro (1431–1494) killed the Ainu leader, Koshamain, The Matsumae held authority over the south of Ezochi until the end of the Edo period. The Matsumae clan were of Yamato descent like other ethnic Japanese people, whereas the Emishi of northern Honshu were a distinctive group related to the Ainu. The Emishi were conquered and integrated into the Japanese state dating as far back as the 8th century and as a result began to lose their distinctive culture and ethnicity as they became minorities. By the time the Matsumae clan ruled over the Ainu, most of the Emishi were ethnically mixed and physically closer to Japanese than they were to Ainu. From this, the "transformation" theory postulates that native Jomon peoples changed gradually with the infusion of Yayoi immigrants into the Tōhoku region of northern Honshu, in contrast to the "replacement" theory that posits the Jomon were replaced by the Yayoi. , a Matsumae lord of the late Edo period (December 10, 1829 – June 9, 1866) There were numerous revolts by the Ainu against feudal rule. The last large-scale resistance was Shakushain's revolt in 1669–1672. In 1789, a smaller movement known as the Menashi–Kunashir rebellion was crushed, after which the terms "Japanese" and "Ainu" referred to clearly distinguished groups, and the Matsumae were unequivocally Japanese. According to American professor of Japanese history John A. Harrison, prior to 1868 Japan used proximity as its claim to Hokkaido, Sakhalin, and the Kuril Islands. However, Japan had never thoroughly explored, governed, or exploited the areas, and this claim was invalidated by the movement of Russia into the Northeast Pacific area and by Russian settlements on Kamchatka (from 1699), Sakhalin (1850s) and the Sea of Okhotsk Coast (1640s onwards). Prior to the Meiji Restoration of 1868, Hokkaido was seen as a frontier land and the Tokugawa shogunate realized the need to prepare northern defenses against a possible Russian invasion and took over control of most of Ezochi in 1855–1858. Many Japanese settlers regarded the Ainu as "inhuman and the inferior descendants of dogs". The Tokugawa irregularly imposed various assimilation programs on the Ainu due to the Tokugawa's perception of them as a threat from Russia. Shortly after the Boshin War in 1868, a group of Tokugawa loyalists led by Enomoto Takeaki temporarily occupied the island (the polity is commonly but mistakenly known as the Republic of Ezo), but the rebellion was defeated in May 1869. Through colonial practices, Ezochi was annexed into Japanese territory. Japanese proponents of Ezochi's colonization argued that it would serve as a strategic move to enhance Japan's standing and influence on the global stage, particularly in negotiations with Western powers, specifically Russia. The Meiji government invested heavily in colonizing Hokkaido for several reasons. Firstly, they aimed to assert their control over the region as a buffer against potential Russian advances. The resistance was eventually destroyed, and the lowlands were under the control of the commission. His parting words, "Boys, be ambitious!", can be found on public buildings in Hokkaido to this day. The population of Hokkaido increased from 58,000 to 240,000 during that decade. Kuroda hired Capron for US$10,000 per year and paid for all expenses related to the mission. Kuroda and his government were likely intrigued by Capron's previous colonial experience, particularly his involvement in the forced removal of Native Americans from Texas to new territories after the Mexican–American War. Capron introduced capital-intensive farming techniques by adopting American methods and tools, importing seeds for Western crops, and bringing in European livestock breeds, which included his favorite North Devon cattle. Japan established the Hokkaido Colonization Board in 1869, a year after the start of the Meiji era, with the goal of encouraging Japanese settlers to Hokkaido. Mainland Japanese settlers began migrating to Hokkaido, leading to Japan's colonization of the island. The act prohibited the Ainu from fishing and hunting, which were their main source of subsistence. The Ainu were valued primarily as a source of inexpensive manual labor, and discriminatory assimilation policies further entrenched their sense of inferiority as well as worsened poverty and disease within Ainu communities. These policies exacerbated diasporic trends among the Ainu population, as many sought employment with the government or private enterprises, often earning meager wages that barely sustained their families. Given the Meiji state's full political control over the island, the subsequent subjugation of its indigenous inhabitants, aggressive economic exploitation, and ambitious permanent settlement endeavors, Hokkaido emerged as the sole successful settler colony of Japan. Before the Japanese surrender was formalized, the Soviet Union made preparations for an invasion of Hokkaido, but US President Harry Truman made it clear that the surrender of all of the Japanese home islands would be accepted by US General Douglas MacArthur per the 1943 Cairo Declaration. Present Hokkaido became equal with other prefectures in 1947, when the revised Local Autonomy Act became effective. The Japanese central government established the as an agency of the Prime Minister's Office in 1949 to maintain its executive power in Hokkaido. The agency was absorbed by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure and Transport in 2001. and the of the ministry still have a strong influence on public construction projects in Hokkaido. == Geography ==
Geography
The island of Hokkaido is located in the north of Japan, near Russia (Sakhalin Oblast). It has coastlines on the Sea of Japan (to the west of the island), the Sea of Okhotsk (to the north), and the Pacific Ocean (to the east). The center of the island is mountainous, with volcanic plateaux. Hokkaido has multiple plains such as the Ishikari Plain , Tokachi Plain , the (the largest wetland in Japan) and Sarobetsu Plain . Hokkaido is which make it the second-largest island of Japan. The Tsugaru Strait separates Hokkaido from Honshu (Aomori Prefecture); Those on Honshu died out long ago. Hokkaido is also the historical and current range of Japan's sea otter population, which is increasingly becoming a major tourism draw as sea otters disappear from Japanese aquaria. The native conifer species in northern Hokkaido is the Sakhalin fir (Abies sachalinensis). The flowering plant Hydrangea hirta is also found on the island. : Geologic activity Like many areas of Japan, Hokkaido is seismically active. Aside from numerous earthquakes, the following volcanoes are considered still active (at least one eruption since 1850): • Hokkaido Koma-ga-takeMount MeakanMount TarumaeMount TokachiMount Usu and Shōwa-shinzan In 1993, an earthquake of magnitude 7.7 generated a tsunami which devastated Okushiri, killing 202 inhabitants. An earthquake of magnitude 8.3 struck near the island on September 26, 2003. On September 6, 2018, an earthquake of magnitude 6.6 struck with its epicenter near the city of Tomakomai, causing a blackout across the whole island. On May 16, 2021, an earthquake measuring 6.1 on the Richter scale struck off the coast of Hokkaido. Parks File:Kottaro situgen 2009.jpg|Overview of Kushiro Wetland File:Lake Akan and Mount Oakan - 2005.jpg|Lake Akan and Mount Meakan File:Image-2008 Lake Masshu.jpg|View of Lake Mashū File:Lake Shikotsu17n4272.jpg|Lake Shikotsu File:Sounkyo1.jpg|Sōunkyō, a gorge in the Daisetsu-zan Volcanic Area • Twelve prefectural natural parks (道立自然公園). The prefectural natural parks cover 146,802 ha, the largest area of any prefecture. • Akkeshi Prefectural Natural ParkEsan Prefectural Natural ParkFurano-Ashibetsu Prefectural Natural ParkHiyama Prefectural Natural ParkKariba-Motta Prefectural Natural ParkMatsumae-Yagoshi Prefectural Natural ParkNorth Okhotsk Prefectural Natural ParkNopporo Shinrin Kōen Prefectural Natural ParkNotsuke-Fūren Prefectural Natural ParkSharidake Prefectural Natural ParkShumarinai Prefectural Natural ParkTeshiodake Prefectural Natural Park Climate As Japan's coldest region, Hokkaido has relatively cool summers and icy/snowy winters. Most of the island falls in the humid continental climate zone with Köppen climate classification Dfb (hemiboreal) in most areas but Dfa (hot summer humid continental) in some inland lowlands. The average August temperature ranges from , while the average January temperature ranges from , in both cases depending on elevation and distance from the ocean, though temperatures on the western side of the island tend to be a little warmer than on the eastern. The highest temperature ever recorded is on 26 May 2019. The northern portion of Hokkaido falls into the taiga biome with significant snowfall. Snowfall varies widely from as much as on the mountains adjacent to the Sea of Japan down to around on the Pacific coast. The island tends to have isolated snowstorms that develop long-lasting snowbanks. Total precipitation varies from on the mountains of the Sea of Japan coast to around (the lowest in Japan) on the Sea of Okhotsk coast and interior lowlands and up to around on the Pacific side. The generally high quality of powder snow and numerous mountains in Hokkaido make it a popular region for snow sports. The snowfall usually commences in earnest in November and ski resorts (such as those at Niseko, Furano, Teine and Rusutsu) usually operate between December and April. Hokkaido celebrates its winter weather at the Sapporo Snow Festival. Hokkaido’s winter snowfall is driven by a seasonal atmospheric pattern between Siberia and the North Pacific. During winter, the Eurasian continent receives limited solar energy and cools rapidly, forming a strong and persistent high-pressure system over Siberia known as the Siberian High. At the same time, the North Pacific retains heat longer and forms a persistent low-pressure system called the Aleutian Low. The resulting pressure difference generates steady northwesterly winds that carry very cold, dry air toward Japan. As this air crosses the Sea of Japan, it passes over the Tsushima Warm Current, which keeps coastal waters relatively warm and enables significant moisture uptake. When the moisture-laden air reaches Hokkaido’s mountainous coastline, it is forced upward, condenses, and produces significant snowfall. This is an effect often referred to as ocean-effect snowfall. Despite the common assumption that La Niña brings heavier snow, long-term observations show no consistent correlation between La Niña phases and increased snowfall in Hokkaido. During the winter, passage through the Sea of Okhotsk is often complicated by large floes of drift ice. Combined with high winds that occur during winter, this frequently brings air travel and maritime activity to a halt beyond the northern coast of Hokkaido. Ports on the open Pacific Ocean and Sea of Japan are generally ice-free year round, though most rivers freeze during the winter. Unlike the other major islands of Japan, Hokkaido is normally not affected by the June–July rainy season and the relative lack of humidity and typically warm, rather than hot, summer weather makes its climate an attraction for tourists from other parts of Japan. Temperature comparison == Administrative divisions ==
Administrative divisions
Subprefectures , Hokkaido has nine General Subprefectural Bureaus (総合振興局) and five Subprefectural Bureaus (振興局). Hokkaido is one of eight prefectures in Japan that have subprefectures (支庁 shichō). Hokkaido is the only one of the eight to have such offices covering the whole of its territory outside the main cities, rather than having them just for outlying islands or remote areas. This is mostly because of its great size. Many parts of the prefecture are simply too far away to be effectively administered by Sapporo. Subprefectural offices in Hokkaido carry out many of the duties that prefectural offices fulfill elsewhere in Japan. Municipalities Hokkaido is divided into 179 municipalities. Cities There are 35 cities in Hokkaido: Towns and villages These are the towns and villages in Hokkaido: == Major cities and towns ==
Major cities and towns
Hokkaido's largest city is the capital, Sapporo, which is a designated city. The island has two core cities: Hakodate in the south and Asahikawa in the central region. Other important population centers include Tomakomai, Iwamizawa, Kushiro, Obihiro, Kitami, Abashiri, Wakkanai, and Nemuro. Gallery File:4 Chome Sakaigawa, Chūō-ku, Sapporo-shi, Hokkaidō 064-0943, Japan - panoramio.jpg|Sapporo City File:Asahibashi Bridge and Mt. Daisetsuzan Range.jpg|Asahikawa File:Cityscapes of Hakodate Hokkaido pref Japan01n.jpg|Hakodate File:Nusamai-Bridge.jpg|Kushiro File:ObihiroMainSummer.jpg|Obihiro File:春光町から北見市中心部方向 - panoramio.jpg|Kitami File:Hokkaido-prefectural-road R6 central-Iwamizawa.JPG|Iwamizawa File:Abashiri River09n.jpg|Abashiri File:Wakkanai station001.JPG|Wakkanai File:Hokkaido pref road No35 Nosappu Cape.jpg|Nemuro File:Rumoi city nightview.JPG|Rumoi ==Population==
Population
Hokkaido has the third-largest population of Japan's five main islands, with 5,111,691 people . It has the lowest population density in Japan, with just . Hokkaido ranks 21st in population among the world's islands. Major cities include Sapporo and Asahikawa in the central region, and the port of Hakodate facing Honshu in the south. Sapporo is Hokkaido's largest city and the fifth-largest in Japan. It had a population of 1,959,750 and a population density of . {{historical populations|cols=2|align=none|13=1721|14=15,615|15=1750|16=21,807|17=1786|18=26,310|19=1798|20=28,711|21=1822|22=61,948|23=1834|24=67,862|25=1846|26=70,887|27=1873|28=123,668 ==Economy==
Economy
Although there is some light industry (most notably paper milling and beer brewing) most of the population is employed by the service sector. In 2001, the service sector and other tertiary industries generated more than three-quarters of the gross domestic product. Agriculture and other primary industries play a large role in Hokkaido's economy. Hokkaido has nearly one fourth of Japan's total arable land. It ranks first in the nation in the production of a host of agricultural products, including wheat, soybeans, potatoes, sugar beets, onions, pumpkins, corn, raw milk, and beef. Hokkaido also accounts for 22% of Japan's forests with a sizable timber industry. The prefecture is first in the nation in production of marine products and aquaculture. in Nakafurano Tourism is an important industry, especially during the cool summertime when visitors are attracted to Hokkaido's open spaces from hotter and more humid parts of Japan and other Asian countries. During the winter, skiing and other winter sports bring other tourists, and increasingly international ones, to the island. Coal mining played an important role in the industrial development of Hokkaido, with the Ishikari coalfield. Cities such as Muroran were primarily developed to supply the rest of the archipelago with coal. ==Transportation==
Transportation
on the Hokkaido Shinkansen Hokkaido's only land link to the rest of Japan is the Seikan Tunnel. Most travellers travel to the island by air: the main airport is New Chitose Airport at Chitose, just south of Sapporo. One of the airlines, Air Do was named after Hokkaido. Hokkaido can be reached by ferry from Sendai, Niigata and some other cities, with the ferries from Tokyo dealing only in cargo. The Hokkaido Shinkansen takes passengers from Tokyo to near Hakodate in slightly over four hours. There is a fairly well-developed railway network, but many cities can be accessed only by road. The coal railways were constructed around Sapporo and Horonai during the late 19th century, as advised by American engineer Joseph Crawford. == Education ==
Education
The Hokkaido Prefectural Board of Education oversees public schools (except colleges and universities) in Hokkaido. Public elementary and junior high schools are operated by municipalities, except Hokkaido Noboribetsu Akebi Secondary School and schools attached to the Hokkaido University of Education. Public high schools are operated by either the prefectural board or municipalities. Senior high schools , there are 291 high schools in Hokkaido: 4 national schools, 55 private schools, 233 public schools, and 2 integrated junior-senior schools. Colleges and universities Hokkaido has 34 universities (7 national, 6 local public, and 21 private universities), 15 junior colleges, and 6 colleges of technology (3 national, 1 local public, and 2 private colleges). == Culture ==
Sports
in Sapporo The 1972 Winter Olympics were held in Sapporo. The sports teams listed below are based in Hokkaido. • Consadole Sapporo (association football) • Hokkaido American Football AssociationHokkaido Nippon-Ham FightersJapan Basketball LeagueLevanga Hokkaido (basketball) • Loco Solare (curling) • Nippon Paper Cranes (ice hockey) • Oji Eagles (ice hockey) Sumo Hokkaido enjoys a special status in professional sumo as the prefecture that has produced the most in Japan. A total of eight wrestlers have achieved the highest rank in the professional hierarchy: Chiyonoyama, Yoshibayama, Taihō, Kitanofuji, Kitanoumi, Chiyonofuji, Hokutoumi, and Ōnokuni. Historically, the prefecture only experienced a boom in sporting success after the Meiji era, because during this period of economic development and high birth rates, it was common to send young boys to sumo stables in order to limit the number of mouths to feed. The prefecture's golden age came during the Shōwa and Heisei periods, with Chiyonofuji, Hokutoumi, and Ōnokuni all reaching the rank of and Hokuten'yū reaching the rank of at the same time. Since then, the prefecture has slowed down considerably, with the last title won by a native of the prefecture taking place in 1991. On the amateur scene, only five high school clubs participating in national tournaments have more than 16 members, according to a 2020 study. ==Winter festivals==
Winter festivals
• Asahikawa Ice Festival • Big Air – snowboarding freestyle competition • Sapporo Snow Festival • Shōwa-Shinzan International Yukigassen - competitive snowballing • Sōunkyō Ice Festival == Politics ==
Politics
Governor The current governor of Hokkaido is Naomichi Suzuki. He won the governorship in the gubernatorial election in 2019 as an independent. In 1999, Hori was supported by all major non-Communist parties and Itō ran without party support. Before 1983, the governorship had been held by Liberal Democrats Naohiro Dōgakinai and Kingo Machimura for 24 years. In the 1971 election when Machimura retired, the Socialist candidate Shōhei Tsukada lost to Dōgakinai by only 13,000 votes; Tsukada was also supported by the Communist Party – the leftist cooperation in opposition to the US-Japanese security treaty had brought joint Socialist-Communist candidates to victory in many other prefectural and local elections in the 1960s and 1970s. In 1959, Machimura had defeated Yokomichi's father Setsuo in the race to succeed Hokkaido's first elected governor, Socialist Toshibumi Tanaka who retired after three terms. Tanaka had only won the governorship in 1947 in a run-off election against Democrat Eiji Arima because no candidate had received the necessary vote share to win in the first round as required by law at the time. Assembly The Hokkaido Legislative Assembly has 100 members from 47 electoral districts. As of April 2015, the LDP caucus holds a majority with 51 seats, the DPJ-led group has 26 members. Other groups are the Hokkaido Yūshikai of New Party Daichi and independents with twelve seats, Kōmeitō with eight, and the Japanese Communist Party with four members. General elections for the Hokkaido assembly are currently held together with gubernatorial elections in the unified local elections (last round: April 2015). National representation For the lower house of the National Diet, Hokkaido is divided into twelve single-member electoral districts. In the 2017 election, candidates from the governing coalition of Liberal Democrats and Kōmeitō won seven districts and the main opposition Constitutional Democrats five. For the proportional election segment, Hokkaido and Tokyo are the only two prefectures that form a regional "block" district of their own. The Hokkaido proportional representation block elects eight Representatives. In 2017, the Liberal Democratic Party received 28.8% of the proportional vote and won three seats, the Constitutional Democratic Party won three (26.4% of the vote), one seat each went to Kibō no Tō (12.3%) and Kōmeitō (11.0%). The Japanese Communist Party, who won a seat in 2014, lost their seat in 2017 while receiving 8.5% of the votes. In the upper house of the National Diet, a major reapportionment in the 1990s halved the number of Councillors from Hokkaido per election from four to two. After the elections of 2010 and 2013, the Hokkaido electoral district – like most two-member districts for the upper house – is represented by two Liberal Democrats and two Democrats. In the 2016 upper house election, the district magnitude will be raised to three, Hokkaido will then temporarily be represented by five members and six after the 2019 election. ==International relations==
International relations
Hokkaido has relationships with several provinces, states, and other entities worldwide. • Alberta, Canada, since 1980 • Heilongjiang, China, since 1980 • Sakhalin Oblast, Russia, since 1998 • Chiang Mai, Thailand, since 2013 • Thimphu, Bhutan • Hawaii, United States , 74 individual municipalities in Hokkaido have sister city agreements with 114 cities in 21 countries worldwide. ==See also==
General references
• • Bisignani, J. D. (1993). Japan Handbook. Chico, California: Moon Publications. ; ; OCLC 8954556 • McDougall, Walter A. (1993). Let the Sea Make a Noise: A History of the North Pacific from Magellan to MacArthur. New York: Basic Books. ; OCLC 28017793 • Nussbaum, Louis-Frédéric and Käthe Roth. (2005). Japan encyclopedia. Cambridge: Harvard University Press. ; OCLC 58053128 == External links ==
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