In 2013, cotton and polyester accounted for almost 85% of all fibers. Also, many fibers in the finished garments are mixed to acquire desired drape, flexibility or stretch.
Cellulose fibers Natural fibers are fibers which are found in
nature and are not petroleum-based. Natural fibers can be categorized into two main groups,
cellulose or
plant fiber and
protein or
animal fiber. Uses of these fibers can be from buttons to eyewear such as sunglasses. Other than cotton, the most common plant-based fiber,
cellulose fibers include:
jute,
flax,
hemp,
ramie,
abaca,
soy,
maize,
banana,
pineapple.
Bacterial cellulose is currently being tested and developed as a new fiber alternative.
Cotton Cotton is a major source of apparel fiber. Cotton accounts for over 50% of all clothing produced worldwide. This makes cotton the most widely used clothing fiber. Up to 1 billion people worldwide depend on the cotton industry, including 100 million smallholder farmers. Cotton is one of the most chemical-intensive crops in the world, but growers in
California have reduced their dependence on these chemicals. Conventionally grown cotton uses approximately 25% of the world's
insecticides and more than 10% of the world's
pesticides. For every pound of cotton harvested, a farmer uses up 1/3 lb of chemical, synthetic fertilizer. Cotton is naturally grown in a variety of colors. Typically, cotton color can come in mauve, red, yellow and orange hues. Though manufacturers prefer cotton to be white so that cotton can easily be synthetically dyed to any shade of color. During processing, manufacturers may add bleach and various other chemicals and heavy metal dyes to make cotton pure white.
Formaldehyde resins would be added in as well to form "easy care" cotton fabric. All cotton marketed as organic in the United States is required to fulfill strict federal regulations regarding how the cotton is grown.
Organic cotton uses 88% less water and 62% less energy than conventional cotton. Companies have also produced
genetically modified (GMO) cotton plants that are resistant to pest infestations. Among the GMO are cotton crops inserted with the Bt (
Bacillus thuringiensis) gene.
Bt cotton crops do not require insecticide applications. Insects that consume cotton containing Bt will stop feeding after a few hours and die. As a result, the cost of pesticide applications decreased between $25 and $65 per acre. Bt cotton crops yield 5% more cotton on average compared to traditional cotton crops. Though the vast majority of other agricultural pests remain susceptible to Bt. Soy clothing is largely
biodegradable. Although not as durable as cotton or hemp fabrics, soy clothing has a soft, elastic feel. Soy clothing is known as vegetable
cashmere for its light and silky sensation.
Bamboo Bamboo fabrics are made from heavily pulped bamboo grass. Making clothing and textiles needs less
pesticide control and
agrochemicals. Like cotton fibers, bamboo fibers are naturally yellowish in color and are bleached white with chemicals during processing. Prior to a regulatory change in 2010, the majority of fiber and textile marketed as bamboo on the market was actually viscose rayon derived from bamboo. Now manufacturers need to label such products as rayon from bamboo.
Hemp, like bamboo, is considered a sustainable crop. It requires little water to grow, and it is resistant to most pests and diseases. Hemp fiber comes in two types: primary and secondary
bast fibers. Hemp fibers are considered strong enough for construction uses. Compared to cotton fiber, hemp fiber is approximately 8 times the tensile strength and 4 times the durability. The fibers are
biodegradable and can foster a
cradle-to-cradle cycle of reuse and regeneration. This material takes about three to four weeks under lab-controlled conditions to grow. Tests revealed that moisture absorption from the air softens this material, which makes it less durable. Researchers also discovered that cold conditions make it brittle. Pesticides are conventionally used in the cultivation of
wool, although quantities are smaller. Most commercially produced
silk involves feeding worms a carefully controlled diet of
mulberry leaves grown under special conditions. The fibers are extracted by steaming to kill the silk moth
chrysalis and then washed in hot water. Its use in textiles is limited due to its high cost. The silk industry also employs millions of people in rural China.
Cashmere is obtained from the fine, soft hairs of a cashmere goat's underbelly coat. Four goats are needed to produce enough cashmere for one sweater. The cashmere industry has been questioned for the working conditions of goat herders and the underpaying of farmers.
Oxfam reported in Spring 2021 on a project in
Afghanistan being undertaken jointly with the
Burberry Foundation and PUR Projet, working with goat farmers to promote sustainable cashmere production.
Manufactured fibers Manufactured fibers sit within three categories:
cellulosic fibers,
synthetic fibers and
protein fibers (e.g.,
azlon). Manufactured cellulosic fibers include
rayon made from bamboo and wood,
lyocell (also known under the brand name Tencel) and
polylactic acid. Lyocell has gained popularity in sustainable fashion due to its closed-loop production process, which recycles water and solvents.Manufactured synthetic fibers include
polyester,
nylon,
spandex,
acrylic fiber,
polyethylene and
polypropylene. Other alternative biodegradable fibers being developed by companies include: leather alternative using pineapple leaves;
biocomposites, fabrics, using various parts of coconut; and fabric and paper made from banana plant stalks and stems.
PET plastic Clothing can be made from plastic. Seventy percent of plastic-derived fabrics come from polyester, and the type of polyester most used in fabrics is
polyethylene terephthalate. PET plastic clothing comes from reused plastics, often recycled plastic bottles. PET plastics have the
recycling code of one. These plastics are usually beverage bottles (i.e., water, soda and fruit juice bottles). Generally, this method is as follows: plastic bottles are compressed, baled and shipped into processing facilities, where they will be chopped into flakes and melted into small white pellets. Then, the pellets are processed again and spun into yarn-like fiber, where it can be made into clothing. |thumb
Fungal species Alexander Bismarck and Mitchell Jones from the
University of Vienna have conducted research on the possibility of using fungal species to create sustainable leather alternatives. Leather alternatives can be produced by using byproducts of agricultural products such as
sawdust. After a few weeks, the fungal mycelium can be processed and chemically treated into a leather-like material. The process is
carbon neutral.
Mycelium Leather Mycelium leather, also known as "Mushroom Leather," is a bio-based material that originates from the root system of fungi, referred to as mycelium. It has gained the attention of many fashion brands such as
Stella McCartney and
Hermès, using the substitute as a sustainable alternative to animal leather because it is biodegradable, cruelty-free, and requires fewer resources. Mycelium is often grown in controlled environments using agricultural waste, which allows for rapid production without the large use of water and energy it would take to process traditional leather. Because of its adaptability, mycelium can be altered to recreate several different textures, thicknesses, and colors. == Development ==