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Xàtiva

Xàtiva, also known as Játiva, is a town and municipality in eastern Spain, in the province of Valencia, on the right (western) bank of the river Albaida and at the junction of the Valencia–Murcia and Valencia Albacete railways, in the north of the Central comarques and serves as the capital of the Costera comarca. It holds the distinction of having the highest number of enclaves in Spain, totaling twenty-six. It is located 25 km west of the Mediterranean Sea. During the Al-Andalus Islamic era, Arabs brought the technology to manufacture paper to Xàtiva. In the 12th century, Xàtiva was known for its schools, education, and learning circles. Islamic scholar Abu Ishaq al-Shatibi's last name refers to Xàtiva where he lived and died. After the Reconquista by Northern Christian kingdoms and the following Christian repopulation, the city became the cradle of one of the most powerful and controversial families of the Renaissance, the House of Borgia, which produced Popes like Callixtus III and Alexander VI.

Etymology
Xàtiva is one of the few Spanish cities to retain a pre-Roman toponym. The Iberians knew it as Saiti, which evolved into Saitabi or Saetabis in Latin. Under Muslim rule, it was called (madīnat Šāṭibat), leading to the Valencian Xàtiva. In 1707, Philip V of Spain renamed it San Felipe. which was later adapted to the academic spelling Játiva. It officially reverted to its Valencian form Xàtiva by a decree of the Valencian Council on January 7, 1980. == History ==
History
Xàtiva (Saetabis in Latin) was famous in Roman times for its linen fabrics, mentioned by the Latin poets Ovid and Catullus. Xàtiva is also known as an early European centre of paper manufacture. In the 12th century, Arabs brought the technology to manufacture paper to Xàtiva ( Shāṭiba). It is the birthplace of two popes, Callixtus III and Alexander VI, and also the painter José Ribera (Lo Spagnoletto). It suffered a dark moment in its history at the hands of Philip V of Spain, who, after his victory at the Battle of Almansa during the War of the Spanish Succession, had the city besieged then ordered it to be burned and renamed San Felipe. In memory of the insult, the portrait of the monarch hangs upside down in the local . Xàtiva was briefly a provincial capital under the short-lived 1822 territorial division of Spain, during the Trienio Liberal. The Province of Xàtiva was revoked with the return to absolutism in 1823. Prehistory and Antiquity Evidence of settlement in Xàtiva dates back to the Middle Paleolithic, as shown by findings at Cova Negra. The city originates from the Iberian culture, known as (with variants Ibi or Tibi). This link to El Cid includes Xàtiva in the Camino del Cid. By the early 13th century, it was the capital of a small Muslim state dependent on Valencia, stretching from the Júcar River in the north to Biar in the south. The Morisco population was expelled from the walled city and resettled in rural areas and the San Juan suburb, while the Jews retained their juderías near the Santa Tecla gate. The castle and walls were strengthened between 1287 and 1369, and water supply improved with the Bellús and Agua Santa aqueducts. Early Modern Period by titled Northern view of the city of San Felipe. National Library of Spain By the late 15th century, Xàtiva had around 8,000 inhabitants and was at its peak. It administered a vast municipal term, now corresponding to 37 municipalities, and a governorship spanning from the Júcar River to Caudete, Biar, Castalla, Xixona, and Villajoyosa, covering 4,750 km². largely due to the efforts of Joaquín Lorenzo Villanueva. Economically, the city suffered a major setback between 1810 and 1830 with the near-total collapse of its flax and silk textile industry, leaving about 1,300 people jobless. From 1822 to 1823, it served as the capital of the Province of Xàtiva, though this was not confirmed in the 1833 territorial division (Trieno Liberal), when it was included in the Province of Valencia. The attack killed 129 people and injured over 200, many of them women and children at the station awaiting a military convoy. == Geography ==
Geography
Located in La Costera comarca, Xàtiva is 62 km from the city of Valencia. The municipality is crossed by the A-7 Mediterranean Motorway, the regional roads CV-620 (formerly N-340 between km 838 and 847) and (Alzira–Xàtiva), and local roads connecting to Vallés, Novelé, Genovés, Barxeta, Llocnou d'En Fenollet, L'Énova, Manuel, and Llosa de Ranes. The municipality lies in the strategic Montesa corridor between the basins of the and its tributary, the . Its perimeter is highly irregular, with several territorial enclaves resulting from historical segregations of its once-larger municipal term, which included over sixty villages. The terrain features four distinct units. In the north, the Santa Anna range, a Triassic outcrop, reaches 230 m. South of this range, between Llosa de Ranes and Xàtiva, lies a broad, nearly flat valley at 80–100 m, covered with Quaternary sediments and irrigated by the , Carnissers ravine, and , which waters Xàtiva's fertile orchards. Winters are mild, while summers are very hot, with maximum temperatures occasionally exceeding 40 °C. Frosts are rare, and snow is extremely rare. In autumn, the cold drop can occur. Xàtiva has a hot semi-arid climate (Köppen climate classification: BSh) with mild winters and hot to very hot summers. September is the wettest month of the year as a result of cold drop episodes that occur mainly in autumn. Despite being located inland, its lower altitude means that temperatures below are rare, while in summer it is common for temperatures to approach or exceed . Summer nights are warm, often hovering around . Xàtiva also recorded the highest temperature ever in peninsular Spain in a month of March, on 23 March 2001 which registered . == Demography ==
Demography
Xàtiva has a population of approximately 30378 (2023). Its residents are known as setabenses or socarrats ("scorched ones"), a reference to the 1707 burning by Philip V of Spain. About 9.0% of the population is of foreign nationality. In 1887, Xàtiva's population increased with the incorporation of the former municipality of Anahuir. Urban planning . The original Iberian city was located where the Minor Castle now stands. After the Roman conquest, the center shifted to the plain, occupying the now-empty space between the current city and the castle, where the churches of San Félix and San José stand. Remains and records of Andalusian buildings indicate the city expanded beyond the Roman-Visigothic walls. The Islamic medina likely covered most of the current medieval city, with the Aljama (in Montsant) and the main mosque on the site of the current collegiate church. Water was supplied via the Villa acequia. These axes shaped the early 20th-century expansion. Growth first filled the space between the medieval city and the railway, then extended westward along Reina street. A 1934 expansion plan, revised as an Alignment Plan in 1944, guided growth until the 1960s. The 1988 General Urban Development Plan aimed to expand beyond the railway, requiring two underpasses and one overpass. In 1995, access to the A-7 was improved with a new bridge over the . == Economy ==
Economy
The service sector dominates Xàtiva's economy, particularly tourism and commerce. Industry is also a key economic driver. Commerce attracts customers from the comarca and neighboring areas. The Xàtiva Functional Area includes 38 municipalities, with a population of 113,427 in 2009 (2.2% of the regional total), due to its strategic location and excellent infrastructure connectivity. While 40% of the population worked in agriculture in 1950, this fell to 5% by 2001. Industry employed 20% of the workforce, and construction 12%. Xàtiva has specialized as a service city, with over 63% of its active population in this sector. == Transport ==
Transport
Roads The following roads pass through Xàtiva's municipal term: Railway The in the urban core offers Renfe Operadora services, including long-distance (, Trenhotel), (, connecting to Alcoy), and Cercanías Valencia (Line C-2). The station is equipped for high-speed AVE Madrid–Valencia (via Albacete) trains, currently under construction. Intercity bus Xàtiva has a bus station with lines connecting to nearby towns and cities, operated by companies like Chambitos, La Concepción, and Travicoi. The lines include: Urban bus The urban bus service, managed by the municipality, connects various city points with the Lluís Alcanyís Hospital. == Administration and politics ==
Administration and politics
Municipal government Territorial organization Hamlets Currently, in addition to the municipal capital, the following population units are located within the municipal term, ordered by their population in 2015: • City District (neighborhood around the Santa Maria parish in the ) • Les Santes (former medieval Jewish quarter in the ) • San Pedro (neighborhood around the San Pedro parish in the ) • San José (neighborhood in the historic center under the Bellveret) • Alto del Raval (neighborhood in the historic center under the Calvari Baixet) • Raval de San Juan (former medieval ) • Les Barreres (former medieval neighborhood around the ) • Ensanche (neighborhood north of the city) • Camí dels Dos Molins (northwest neighborhood) • Carmen (northeast neighborhood) • La Murta (neighborhood around the La Murta Stadium) • Horts del Raval (neighborhood at the foot of the Bernisa range) == Culture ==
Culture
Heritage Xàtiva's historic center was declared a Historic-Artistic Site in 1982, housing most of the city's heritage. who began constructing the Major Castle. The current complex features mainly Islamic or Gothic architecture. It served as a state prison for the Crown of Aragon and was considered the strongest fortress in the Kingdom of Valencia. It was declared a National Monument in 1931. Religious heritage Collegiate Basilica: Also known as the Seo, this cathedral-like temple with three naves, a crossing, and an ambulatory was built from 1596 over a former mosque, with construction lasting until the 19th century due to financial issues. • Church of San Pere: Built in the 14th century over a mosque in the Market Square, it follows the conquest temple model with three diaphragmatic arches and a Gothic-Mudéjar coffered ceiling decorated with polychrome bands, vine leaves, geometric motifs, and coats of arms. • Church of Sant Feliu: Dating to the 13th century, built over a late imperial episcopal see, its porch features Roman columns and ashlar stones. • : Formerly the Church of San Miguel, attached to the former Mercedarian convent, it was burned in 1707 during the War of the Spanish Succession and rebuilt by the friars. • Church of Santos Juanes: Built around 1535 over a mosque, it has a Latin cross plan with barrel-vaulted side chapels, rebuilt after the 1707 burning. Its Buxcarró marble staircase is notable. • Church of Santa Tecla: Dating to the 14th century, it was heavily damaged in the 1707 Bourbon sieges and collapsed in the 1748 earthquake, though its bell tower remains. • Convent of Sant Francesc: Begun in the 14th century, its restored church now serves as a concert hall, with a single nave and seven ribbed-vaulted side chapels. Nearby is the 1764 Rococo San Francisco fountain. • : Built in the 14th century, it included a refectory, cloister, chapter house, and church. Mostly demolished, it is being restored as a cultural center. • Convent of San Onofre el Nuevo: Built between 1715 and 1721 opposite the Church of San Pedro, near the former Cocentaina Gate, it features a two-story cloister and a church with tiles and frescoes. • : Dating to the 15th century, only its Flamboyant Gothic portal remains, now housing the Municipal Archive. The nearby 14th-century Trinidad fountain features an octagonal prism with faded Xàtiva and Kingdom of Valencia coats of arms. • Former Convent of San Agustín: Built in the 17th century, it features a magnificent Classicist cloister and is now the UNED seat. Its deconsecrated church, partially without its bell tower due to a collapse, is a concert hall. • Hermitage of Santa Ana: A Gothic structure from the early 15th century, with a single nave, three ribbed vaults, and an apse. Its capitals feature the coats of arms of the Crown of Aragon, Xàtiva, and the Borgia family. • Hermitage of San José: Built in the early 18th century to plans by architect Francisco Cuenca, it has a Latin cross plan with a semicircular apse and side chapels. Its tower incorporates the former Santa Bárbara hermitage and a sealed door, traditionally the Aljama entrance used by James I of Aragon after the conquest. Civil heritage • : A Gothic building constructed between 1530 and 1548, notable for its facade and inner courtyard with Ionic columns. The ground floor was used for wheat trading, while the upper floor stored grain until 1919, when it became the Fine Arts Museum and later the City Museum. • : Begun in the 15th century and completed in the mid-16th century, it was destroyed in 1707 and rebuilt in the early 18th century. Its quadrangular plan includes a courtyard and garden. The stone facade is Renaissance, with a Plateresque main portal and a Late Gothic chapel portal. Notable are the four main-floor windows, a gallery of small balconies with semicircular arches under the eaves, and a fountain in the garden. The chapel's original vault of the Assumption is preserved. • Palace of Alarcón: Built between 1715 and 1730, it now serves as the Palace of Justice. • : Begun in the early 17th century and expanded in the 1920s, it now houses the city's House of Culture. • Palace of the Marquis of Montortal: Located on the noble Moncada street, this 15th-century medieval urban palace features a stone portal with long dovetails and wrought-iron balconies with tiles. • Palace of the Archdeacon: Built in the 15th century as the archdeacon's seat near the Seo, its portal bears the coat of arms of Callixtus III and two from the Borja-Oms branch, possibly linked to Rodrigo or Cesare Borgia. • Palace of the Lords of Estubeny: An 18th-century urban palace with 19th-century ornamental additions, it briefly hosted Queen • Palace of the Lords of Estubeny: An urban palace adhering to 18th-century architectural standards with 19th-century ornamental additions, where Queen Isabella II of Spain briefly resided during her stay in Xàtiva. • : A residential building in the Modernist style, constructed in 1906, located opposite the town hall where the city wall and part of the Portal del Lleó once stood. The fountain associated with the portal was later moved a few meters to the left when facing the main façade. It was the first building in the Valencian Community to use iron beams alongside traditional wooden ones. Notable features include its intricately carved wooden lookout tower topped with iron balconies. Historic fountains • : A historical and ornamental fountain from the 19th century, located in the city center • : A historical and ornamental fountain from the 18th century, situated in the San Pedro neighborhood • : A historical and ornamental fountain from the 15th century, located in the Plaça de la Trinitat • : A historical and ornamental fountain from the 18th century, situated in the ''Plaça d'Aleixandre VI'' • Roca Square Royal Fountain: Constructed in 1841, this central-plan fountain features an elongated basin with semicircular ends and a hexagonal stone pillar, clearly Gothic in style, likely repurposed from an earlier fountain dated 1432. • San Francisco Royal Fountain: Rebuilt in 1764 by stonemason Marcos Piqueres in the Baroque style. It features an image of Saint Francis above the basin, replacing the original statue lost in the late 19th century. • Fish Royal Fountain: A central-plan fountain designed for animals to drink from the basin and humans from its four spouts. Built in the mid-19th century for the Plaça de la Bassa, it was relocated to its current position in the Plaça del Trinquet in 1972. • Santo Domingo Fountain: A small square-basin fountain with modest dimensions and a simple pillar adorned with ornamental spouts Museums City Museum: Located in the Municipal Almodín Museum, the oldest in Xàtiva, on Corretgeria street, it was inaugurated in 1917, with its collections declared a Bien de Interés Cultural (BIC) in 1962. It displays artifacts from Xàtiva's history, ranging from Paleolithic remains found in Cova Negra to items from the Islamic period, including a unique 11th-century basin significant in Islamic culture. • Fine Arts Museum: Housed in the , inaugurated in 2015, it features painting collections by artists such as Ribera, Goya, Vicente López, Santiago Rusiñol, Benlliure, and Antoni Miró. The museum also houses the iconic portrait of Philip V, moved from the Municipal Almodín Museum, displayed upside down as a symbol of the city's resentment for his ordering the burning and destruction of Xàtiva in 1707 during the heroic defense against Bourbon troops in the War of the Spanish Succession. • Collegiate Museum: Located inside the Collegiate Basilica (la Seu), inaugurated in 1996, it showcases a notable collection of sacred art, including Gothic paintings. Highlights include a painting of Saint Sebastian attributed to Jacomart, traditionally believed to have been modeled after the poet Ausiàs March, and a golden Gothic chalice donated by Pope Callixtus III to the city's Collegiate Basilica. • Corpus Museum: Located in Casa Santandreu, part of the former Santo Domingo Convent complex, inaugurated in 2019, it contains instruments, costumes, and objects, including , from the city's Corpus Christi procession, dating back to the 14th century. Theaters Gran Teatro: Inaugurated in 2001, the building, designed by architect Gerardo Ayala, has a capacity of 800 seats and includes a commercial area. It serves multiple purposes, hosting concerts, operas, theatrical performances, institutional events, and conferences. Festivals • or Xàtiva Fair: Celebrated from August 15 to 20 by royal privilege of James I of Aragon since 1250, it is declared a Festival of National Tourist Interest. Over five days, the streets and squares of Xàtiva host fairground attractions, commercial stalls, and cultural activities, attracting up to 250,000 people. The livestock fair, the original purpose of the event, has become secondary, though it remains appealing during the first three days' Cattle Fair. Notable events include the draft horse pulling contest, the traditional albaes singing night, the on an urban circuit, and the revived Festival de la Cançó. • : Celebrated from March 15 to 19, as in much of the Province of Valencia, in honor of Saint Joseph. a baked rice dish made from the broth of . == Sister cities ==
Sister cities
Xàtiva is twinned with Cocentaina, in Alicante, and Lleida, in the Province of Lleida, Catalonia. == Notable people ==
Notable people
Abu al-Qasim al-Shatibi (538–590 AH / 1144–1194 CE) • Abu Ishaq al-Shatibi (720–790 AH / 1320–1388 CE) • Pope Calixtus III (1378–1458) • Pope Alexander VI (1431–1503) • Tomás Cerdán de Tallada (1530–1614) • Diego Ramírez de Arellano (1580–1624) • Jusepe de Ribera (1591–1652) • Jaime Villanueva (1765–1824) • Raimon (born 1940) • Joan Ramos (born 1942) • Toni Cucarella (born 1959) • Feliu Ventura (born 1976) == Gallery ==
Gallery
File:XATIVA van den Wyngaerde.jpg|Drawing of Xàtiva by Anton van den Wyngaerde in 1563, commissioned by King Philip II of Spain. File:Xàtiva. Almodí. Felip V i cadira-2.jpg|Portrait of Philip V of Spain purposefully exhibited upside down in the File:ComunidadValenciana Xàtiva2 tango7174.jpg|Collegiate church File:0.1. Hospital Municipal (Xàtiva, País Valencià).jpg|Hospital File:1. Ajuntament de Xàtiva (La Costera, País Valencià).jpg|Town hall == See also ==
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