King
Warpalawa offering a bunch of grapes to the god
Tarhunta. A
bas-relief in rock at
Ivriz in
Turkey from the beginning of the 1st millennium BC.
Antiquity The first trace of wine that has been found dates to 7500 years ago, in present-day
Iran but the results of archaeological excavations have not been able to determine from which time wine began to be produced.
Epigraphy tells us about the presence of wine in the Middle East. It was produced in the "High Country" (the mountain borders between
Anatolia and
Armenia) and then imported into
Mesopotamia especially from the 3rd millennium BC. The tablets of
Hattusa describes wine with the term
wiyana in the
Hittite language, GEŠTIN in
Sumerian, and
karânu in
Akkadian. It could be red (SA5 GEŠTIN), light (or maybe white: KÙ.BABBAR GEŠTIN), good wine (DUG.GA GEŠTIN), honeyed (LÀL GEŠTIN) new (GIBIL), or sour (GEŠTIN EMSA). In
Ancient Greece wine had already been developed and used since
Hippocrates, a physician born around 460 BC who commonly prescribed it to patients. "Vinous white wine" and "bitter white wine" were used among his remedies – a sign of diversity in production at that time. In
Roman times the type of viticulture practiced by the Greeks was their model; production included white wine. Rich Roman
patricians organized banquets where the cost of the food was a sign of prestige. In the range of expensive products wine played a predominant role. The richest citizens built sumptuous villas in the
Bay of Naples where the vine had been cultivated since its introduction by the Greeks. The
aminum or ancient grape produced a sweet white wine produced as
mulled wine resembling modern-day
Madeira. The conquering of regions more and more to the north encouraged the Romans to cultivate the vine and to produce lighter and less sweet wines. It also encouraged them to seek new wild varieties adaptable to these distant areas where the Mediterranean varieties showed their limits. For example, vines were planted on the banks of the
Rhine to provide the
Legions with a healthy drink, as opposed to water which was rarely drinkable. The wine was drunk cool in summer and warm in winter, a practice which still continues in the 21st century.
Middle Ages Wine merchants failed to survive the fall of the
Western Roman Empire and viticulture declined dramatically. The Germanic tribes preferred to drink
beer and did not see the value of the wine trade. The decline of viticulture was intensified when
Vikings cut the sea lanes in the Atlantic. In the south the
Saracens were making
Ghazw or raids. These campaigns in southern Europe caused
Languedoc,
Provence, Southern Italy, and the
Douro Valley to become depopulated – the people being taken into slavery or fleeing the threat. Knowledge about the culture of grapevines was conserved by the
Catholic Church: Wine was necessary for the celebration of
Mass, and the monks planted vines at high latitudes and increased the monastic acreages. Difficult to transport and store, wine long remained a product for local consumption. The trade was re-established initially after the enrichment of the nobles and prelates because, as with the Romans, the art of the table reflected the reputation of the host. River trade was of great importance in the development of vineyards. The Germanic countries benefited from the navigability of the
Rhine and the
Danube so they could export their production.
Charlemagne contributed to this growth by enacting his
Capitulare de villis which included a set of rules on the cultivation of the vine in all areas, and the sanitary production of wines. It was an era of great development of the culture of white wine in Germany and Austria. The German vineyards reached 400,000 hectares in the 15th century, which is four times the area encompassed by German vineyards in the 21st century. From the 13th century, traders distinguished
vinum hunicum (wine of the
Huns), which was drunk by the people, from
vinum francium (Wine of the
Franks) which was the wine for the wealthy aristocracy. This terminology persisted so long that for centuries, when defining wine qualities, "
Fränkisch" was used to designate a "
fine" quality, and "
Heunisch" was used for "
coarse." and
Weisser Heunisch (White Hunnic). There was recognition of varieties of
Riesling and
Sylvaner from the late Middle Ages. Part of European trade was by sea along the Atlantic coast. The English, then the Dutch and Scandinavians from their demand for wine, created a craze for planting between
Bordeaux and
La Rochelle. Little dry white wine was produced for export from La Rochelle while Bordeaux exported mainly wines from the hinterland received via the
Garonne. When wine production was introduced on the banks of the
Charente in the 17th century, Charente white wines were introduced as
cognac. The
Crusaders also discovered
Muscat wine. Once back home, the rulers and wealthy aristocrats looked to buy the sweet wines they enjoyed in the East. They came from grapes that dominated the
vineyards of Languedoc-Roussillon and
Spain. Trade in these wines was facilitated by their high alcohol content which ensured preservation during the long journey to Northern Europe.
Modern era In 1453 the
Ottoman Empire took
Constantinople and the situation of the Venetians and Genovese deteriorated. The wine trade between the eastern Mediterranean and northern Europe fell sharply. At the same time, the
Spanish had just completed their
Reconquista and replaced the Mediterranean wine with its own, especially for English and Dutch consumers. The port of
Sanlúcar de Barrameda began to export large quantities of white wine which was the ancestor of today's
sherry. This wine was called
sack and caused a sensation in England. Even at the height of animosity between the two countries (as in the episode of the
Spanish Armada in 1588) the trade continued – sometimes provided by pirates who stole what they could not buy. Between 40 and 60 thousand barrels each of 500 litres left the Spanish coast annually for England and the Netherlands (this volume of some 300,000 hectolitres represented two-thirds of today's production). From the 16th century the first European vines were planted in America: in
Mexico, then
Peru,
Bolivia,
Argentina, and
Chile. These were in addition to the native vines that grew in Mexico, but this pre-Columbian production was not for the production of wine since the grapes were too acidic. It was used to produce
acachul a drink sweetened with fruit and honey. The
Little Ice Age spelt the death knell of northern viticulture. The vine disappeared from northern Germany and
Baden, and the maximum altitude for viticulture descended to 220 metres. Hans-Jürgen Otto noted that: "all the vineyards suffered and decreased in area". In England the vine also disappeared. The less early vineyards preferred to select white varieties of grapes because, even if unripe, white grapes allowed wine that was a little sour to still be consumable, while red grapes do not give enough colour, and green tannins make the wine bitter. The interruption of the fermentation by a cold winter led to the discovery of the process of secondary fermentation of champagne. in Hungary, where the secrets of the process were kept The enrichment of some of the population created a craze for rare wines. This phenomenon, which was already responsible for the development of
sherry in England, was reproduced in Central Europe. The discovery of the benefits of the
noble rot on white grapes took place around 1650 in
Hungary for the development of
Tokaji wine.
Hugh Johnson declared that: "the Tokay of three centuries ago was the best sweet wine in the world, it was inherited from a long-standing winemaking tradition". Developed with a grape whose exceptional maturity is due to a trade secret, this wine also developed its qualities through a process that long remained a secret in underground cellars of the winery. Prized by the
House of Habsburg, Tokay experienced profitable trading. Attempted imitation came to nought and the use of noble rot remained a secret. It was not until 120 years later that a method of very late harvest was experimented with on the steep banks of the
Rhine. Its use in
Sauternes was attested in 1836 in the
Château La Tour Blanche but at that time very late harvest gave a very rich wine that required several years to age in barrels. Other regions were discovering secrets which would make them rich. So it was that
Dom Perignon was the legendary creator of champagne. In a northern vineyard he developed a special wine that would give rise to an exceptional passion for wine produced in a climate where it could not be expected for wine to reach maturity nor sufficient colour. The fashion of drinking cheap dry white wine started in Paris in the 18th century. To evade the excise duty, Parisians took the habit of going to drink their wine at the producers premises outside the walls of the city.
Cabarets opened their doors by the river, becoming
Guinguettes (similar to taverns): so the wine that was drunk there was also called "guinguet". This is a wine from the hills of the
Seine or the
Marne, sour, but the conditions of transport of the time did not allow it to be used prematurely.
Contemporary era Champagne was created in the 18th century but it was in the next century that its global expansion would occur. The crowned heads of Europe quickly made the wine stylish in their courts although its production, necessarily in bottles, made for a very expensive product. Historian Hugh Johnson assigns an important diplomatic role to champagne:
Talleyrand would have offered this wine at the negotiating table of the
Congress of Vienna, using it to relax his partners in the discussions. The occupation of
Champagne by Russian troops in 1815 publicised the sparkling wine to the Russian aristocracy. The
Veuve Clicquot (Widow Clicquot) booked her wine to her occupants saying "they drink today, tomorrow they will pay..." The progress of the glass industry (especially from the use of coal) helped to democratise the use of the glass bottle. The production of sparkling wine increased dramatically and spread to the American continent. The technique of manufacturing was industrialised and other regions were inspired but the reputation of champagne suffered. The commercial flight of champagne was a product of the
Industrial Revolution that allowed it to be within the financial reach of the emerging middle classes. in a German vineyard, Annaberg at Schweich The period of the 19th century before the arrival of
phylloxera was a golden age of wine. The Industrial Revolution enriched a bourgeoisie clientele for the best wines and the rural exodus to factories created a large market for mass-produced wines. A prominent example for white wines was the
viticulture in Germany. The feeling of freedom infused into the German winemakers under French occupation during the
First Empire prevented the aristocracy and the clergy from recovering all the vineyards from which they were dispossessed. The practice of late harvest was widespread and the more or less sweet wines gained balance against their always lively acidity. In 1872, the
Geisenheim Grape Breeding Institute was created, and it was the source of a great amount of interbreeding giving new varieties – the best known of these is the
Müller-Thurgau. During the same period,
Switzerland adopted, along the shores of
Lake Geneva, vineyards predominantly producing white wine. During the 20th century planting vines in countries where it was unknown was booming. However, it was shaky in places with higher temperatures during fermentation. The use of larger containers creates problems during fermentation: the yeasts produce heat which cannot escape and beyond 35 °C the micro-organisms begin to suffer and fermentation slows then stops. After cooling the wine a new addition of yeast is needed to resume fermentation (not to mention the adverse effects on the wine's aromas and the risk of
lactic bite). In California the search for temperature control of fermentation matured. Applied to white wine they revolutionised this type of wine. European wines, marked by their processes of crushing the grapes, are diametrically opposed to those very fruity wines marked by a refreshing liveliness. During the years 1960–1990, these methods of wine-making moved to Europe and the use of refrigeration equipment is now widely used in almost all regions producing white wine. == Geographical distribution ==