The beginnings of the California and
Oregon Trails were laid out by mountain men and fur traders from about 1811 to 1840 and were only passable initially on foot or by horseback.
South Pass, the easiest pass over the U.S.
continental divide of the Pacific Ocean and Atlantic Ocean drainages, was discovered by
Robert Stuart and his party of seven in 1812 while he was taking a message from the west to the east back to
John Jacob Astor about the need for a new ship to supply
Fort Astoria on the
Columbia River—their supply ship
Tonquin had blown up. In 1824, fur trappers
Jedediah Smith and
Thomas Fitzpatrick rediscovered the South Pass as well as the
Sweetwater,
North Platte and
Platte River Valleys connecting to the
Missouri River. British fur traders primarily used the Columbia and Snake rivers to take their supplies to their trading posts. After 1824, U.S. fur traders had discovered and developed first pack and then wagon trails along the Platte, North Platte, Sweetwater and
Big Sandy River (Wyoming) to the Green River (Colorado River) where they often held their annual
Rocky Mountain Rendezvous (1827–1840) held by a fur trading company at which U.S.
trappers,
mountain men and Indians sold and traded their
furs and
hides and replenished their supplies they had used up in the previous year. A rendezvous typically only lasted a few weeks and was known to be a lively, joyous place, where nearly all were allowed—free trappers, Native Americans, native trapper wives and children, travelers, and later on, even tourists who would venture from even as far as Europe to observe the games and festivities. Trapper
Jim Beckwourth describes: "Mirth, songs, dancing, shouting, trading, running, jumping, singing, racing, target-shooting, yarns, frolic, with all sorts of drinking and gambling extravagances that white men or Indians could invent." Initially from about 1825 to 1834 the fur traders used
pack trains to carry their supplies in and the traded furs out.
Beginnings Sections of what became the California Trail route were discovered and developed by American fur traders including
Kit Carson,
Joseph R. Walker, and
Jedediah Smith, who often worked with the
Rocky Mountain Fur Company and after 1834 by the
American Fur Company and explored widely in the west. Canadian
Hudson's Bay Company trappers led by
Peter Skene Ogden and others scouted the Humboldt River off and on from about 1830 to 1840—little of their explorations was known. A few U.S. and British fur trappers and traders had explored what is now called the
Humboldt River (named Mary's River by Ogden) that crosses most of the present state of Nevada and provides a natural corridor to western Nevada and eastern California. The Humboldt River was of little interest to the trappers as it was hard to get to, dead ended in an
alkali sink, and had few beavers. The details of the Humboldt River and how to get to it was known to only a few trappers. When trapping largely ceased in the 1840s due to a change in men's hat style that didn't use the
felt from
beaver's fur there was a number of out of work fur trappers and traders who were familiar with many of the Indians, trails, and rivers in the west. In 1832, Captain
Benjamin Bonneville, a
United States Military Academy graduate on temporary leave, followed the fur traders paths along the valleys of the
Platte,
North Platte and
Sweetwater Rivers to
South Pass (Wyoming) with a fur trader's caravan of 110 men and 20 wagons over and on to the Green River—the first wagons over South Pass. In the spring of 1833, Captain Benjamin Bonneville sent a party of men under former fur trapper and "now" explorer
Joseph R. Walker to explore the
Great Salt Lake desert and
Big Basin and attempt to find an overland route to
California. Eventually the party re-discovered the
Humboldt River crossing much of present-day
Nevada. After crossing the hot and dry
Forty Mile Desert they passed through the
Carson River Canyon across the Carson Range and ascended the
Sierra Nevada. They descended from the Sierra via the
Stanislaus River drainage to the
Central Valley of California and proceeded on west as far as
Monterey, California—the
Californio capital. His return route from California went across the southern Sierra mountains via what's named now
Walker Pass—named by U.S. Army topographic engineer, explorer, adventurer, and map maker
John C. Frémont. The Humboldt River Valley was key to forming a usable California Trail. The Humboldt River with its water and grass needed by the livestock (oxen, mules horses and later cattle) and emigrants provided a key link west to northern California. One of several "parting of the ways" that split the Oregon and California Trails was eventually established at the
Snake River and
Raft River junctions in what is now Idaho. The Raft River, Junction Creek in the future states of Idaho and Utah and Thousand Springs Creek in the future states of Nevada and Utah provided the usable trail link between the Snake and Humboldt Rivers. After about 1832, a rough wagon trail had been blazed to the
Green River—the chief tributary of the
Colorado River. After 1832, the fur traders often brought wagon loads of supplies to trade with the white and Native American fur trappers at their annual rendezvous usually somewhere on the Green River. They returned to the
Missouri River towns by following their rough trail in reverse. The future Oregon/California wagon trail had minimal improvements, usually limited to partially filling in impassable gullys, etc. By 1836, when the first Oregon migrant wagon train was organized in
Independence, Missouri, a wagon trail had been scouted and roughed out to
Fort Hall, Idaho. In July 1836, missionary wives
Narcissa Whitman and
Eliza Spalding were the first white pioneer women to cross South Pass on their way to
Oregon Territory via Fort Hall. They left their wagons at Fort Hall and went the rest of the way by pack train and boats down the
Columbia River as recommended by the
Hudson's Bay Company trappers at Fort Hall. As early as 1837,
John Marsh, who was the first American doctor in California and the owner of the large
Rancho Los Meganos, realized that owning a great rancho was problematic if he could not hold it. The corrupt and unpredictable rulings by courts in California (then part of Mexico) made this questionable. With evidence that the Russians, French and English were preparing to seize the province, he determined to make it a part of the United States. He felt that the best way to go about this was to encourage emigration by Americans to California, and in this way the history of Texas would be repeated. ranch was the end of the California Trail. His large stone house still stands and is now part of
Marsh Creek State Park in Contra Costa County. Marsh conducted a letter-writing campaign espousing the California climate, soil and other reasons to settle there, as well as the best route to follow (the California Trail), which became known as "Marsh's route." His letters were read, reread, passed around, and printed in newspapers throughout the country, and started the first significant immigration to California. The trail ended at his ranch, and he invited immigrants to stay on his ranch until they could get settled, and assisted in their obtaining passports. After ushering in the period of organized emigration to California, Marsh helped take California from the last Mexican governor, thereby paving the way to California's ultimate acquisition by the United States.
Joseph Chiles Joseph B. Chiles, a member of the Bartleson–Bidwell Party, returned east in 1842 and organized the first of his seven California-bound immigrant companies in 1843. Following the Oregon Trail to
Fort Bridger, the Chiles company enlisted mountain man
Joseph R. Walker as a guide. Chiles and Walker split the company into two groups. Walker led the company with the wagons west toward California by following the Oregon Trail to
Fort Hall, Idaho, and turning west off the Oregon trail at the
Snake River,
Raft River junction. At the head of the Raft River they crossed a divide into the
Big Basin drainage and followed a series of streams like Thousand Springs Creek in what is now Nevada to the
Humboldt River valley near today's
Wells, Nevada. They blazed a wagon trail down the Humboldt River Valley and across
Forty Mile Desert until they hit the
Carson River. Here instead of immediately attempting to cross the Sierra by following the Carson River as it came out of the mountains they turned south, traveling east of the Sierra along what is now roughly the Nevada and California border—about where
U.S. Route 395 in California is today. With scarce provisions, winter approaching and failing draft animals, by the end of 1843 they had traveled south almost on the east side of the Sierra before they abandoned their wagons near
Owens Lake in eastern central California and proceeded by pack train to make a December crossing of the Sierra Nevada mountains over
Walker Pass on
California State Route 178) in the southeast Sierra, an arduous route used by almost no one else. Trying to find a different route, Chiles led the rest of the settlers in a
pack train party down the
Oregon Trail to where it intersected the
Malheur River in eastern Oregon which he then followed across Oregon to California.
John Fremont Another mixed party on horseback of U.S. Army topographers, hunters, scouts, etc. of about 50 men in 1843–1844 led by
U.S. Army Colonel
John C. Frémont of the
United States Army Corps of Engineers and his chief scout
Kit Carson took their exploration company down the Humboldt River, crossing
Forty Mile Desert and then following what is now called the
Carson River across the
Carson Range that is east of what is now called
Lake Tahoe—previously seen but not explored by Fremont from a peak near what is now called
Carson Pass. They made a winter crossing of the Carson Range and Sierra Nevada in February 1843. From Carson pass they followed the northern Sierra's southern slopes, to minimize snow depth, of what is now called the American River Valley down to
Sutter's Fort located near what is now
Sacramento, California. Fremont took the data gathered by his
topographers and map makers in his 1843–1844 and 1846–1847 explorations of much of the American west to create and publish (by order of Congress) the first "decent" map of California and Oregon in 1848.
First wagons to cross The first group to cross the Sierra with their wagons was the
Stephens–Townsend–Murphy Party of 1844. They departed from the Oregon Trail along the Snake River by following the
Raft River to the
City of Rocks in Idaho and then passed over the
Big Basin continental divide and used a series of springs and small streams in what is now Nevada to get to the Humboldt River near where the town of
Wells, Nevada is now. They followed the Humboldt River across Nevada and the future Truckee Trail Route across the rugged
Forty Mile Desert and along the
Truckee River to the foot of the Sierra. They got over the Sierra at
Donner Pass by unloading the wagons and packing the contents to the top using their ox teams as pack animals. The wagons were then partially dis-assembled and then pulled by multiple teams of oxen up the steep slopes and cliffs. Some wagons were left at
Donner Lake. Once on top, the remaining wagons were reassembled and reloaded for their trip to Sutter's Fort (
Sacramento, California). They were caught by early winter snows and abandoned their wagons near
Emigrant Gap and had to hike out of the Sierra after being rescued by a party from Sutter's Fort on February 24, 1845. Their abandoned wagons were retrieved in the spring of 1845 and pulled the rest of the way to Sutter's Fort. A usable but very rough wagon route had finally been worked out along the Humboldt River and the rugged, hot and dry
Forty Mile Desert across Nevada and over the rugged and steep Sierra Nevada by California-bound settlers. In the following years, several other rugged routes over the Sierra were developed.
Hastings Cutoff Pioneered by
Lansford Hastings in 1846, the
Hastings Cutoff left the California Trail at
Fort Bridger in Wyoming. In 1846 the Harlan-Young party, guided by Hastings, passed successfully through the rugged, narrow, rock-filled
Weber Canyon to get over the
Wasatch Range. In a few places the wagons had to be floated down the river in some narrow spots and the wagons had to be pried over large rocks in many places. Passing the future site of
Ogden, Utah and
Salt Lake City, Utah Hastings party proceeded south of the
Great Salt Lake and then across about of waterless
Bonneville Salt Flats and around the
Ruby Mountains in Nevada before getting to the Humboldt River Valley California trail. The severely water-challenged Hastings Cutoff trail across the
Great Salt Lake's salt flats rejoined the California Trail about west of modern-day
Elko, Nevada. The party led by Hastings were just two weeks ahead of the
Donner Party but did successfully get to California before snow closed the passes and stranded the Donner Party in the Sierra. As recommended by a message from Hastings after he got through Weber canyon, another branch of the Hastings trail was cut across the Wasatch Range by the Donner Party. Their rough trail required clearing a very rough wagon trail through thick brush down
Emigration Canyon to get into the Salt Lake Valley. To avoid cutting too much brush in some places they used multiple ox teams to pull wagons up steep slopes to get around brush loaded canyon sections. Cutting this rough trail slowed the Donner Party down by about two weeks—Hastings successfully navigated the rugged Weber Canyon in about four days. The
Mormon Trail over the Wasatch Mountains followed roughly the same path as the Donner Party trail of 1846 but they built a much better trail with many more workers in 1847 to get to the Salt Lake valley with much less difficulty — this was their main route to and from their Salt Lake communities. The Weber Canyon trail was judged too rugged for regular use without a lot of work—later done by Mormon workers on the first transcontinental railroad in 1868–1869. All of the Hastings Cutoffs to California were found to be very hard on the wagons, livestock and travelers as well as being longer, harder, and slower to traverse than the regular trail and was largely abandoned after 1846. It was discovered by some hurrying travelers in 1849 (before the experience of the 1846 travelers was widely known) that during a wet year, wagons could not be pulled across the Great Salt Lake Desert; it was too soft.
Salt Lake Cutoff In 1848, the
Salt Lake Cutoff was discovered by returning
Mormon Battalion soldiers and others from the
City of Rocks (in the future state of Idaho) to the northwest of the Great Salt Lake and on to
Salt Lake City. This cutoff allowed travelers to use the
Mormon Trail from
Fort Bridger over the
Wasatch Range to Salt Lake City and back to the California Trail. In Salt Lake they could get repairs and fresh supplies and livestock by trade or cash. The Mormons were trying to establish new Mormon communities in Utah and needed almost everything then. The trail from Fort Bridger to Salt Lake City and over the Salt Lake Cutoff was about before it rejoined the California Trail near the City of Rocks in Idaho. This cutoff had adequate water and grass, and many thousands of travelers used this cutoff for years. The "regular" California Trail from Fort Bridger via Fort Hall on the Snake River and on to the City of Rocks was within a few miles of being the same distance as going to Salt Lake City and on to the City of Rocks via the Salt Lake Cutoff.
Central Overland Route In April 1859, an expedition of
U.S. Corp of Topographical Engineers led by U.S. Army
Captain James H. Simpson left U.S. Army's
Camp Floyd (Utah) (now
Fairfield, Utah) in central Utah to establish an army western supply route across the Great Basin to California. Upon his return in early August 1859, Simpson reported that he had surveyed what became the
Central Overland Route from Camp Floyd to
Genoa, Nevada. This route went through central Nevada roughly where
U.S. Route 50 goes today from
Carson City, Nevada, to
Ely, Nevada. From Ely the route is approximated today by the roads to
Ibapah, Utah,
Callao, Utah,
Fish Springs National Wildlife Refuge,
Fairfield, Utah to
Salt Lake City, Utah (See: Pony Express Map) The Central Overland Route was about shorter than the 'standard' California Trail Humboldt River route. This Central Overland Route, with minor modifications was used by settler's wagon trains, the
Pony Express, stagecoach lines and the
First Transcontinental Telegraph after 1859. In October 1860, the English explorer
Richard Burton traveled the entire route at a time when the Pony Express was operating. He gave detailed descriptions of each of the way stations in his 1861 book
The City of the Saints, Across the Rocky Mountains to California. Samuel Clemens (
Mark Twain) traveled the route in the summer of 1861 with his brother Orion on their way to Nevada's new territorial capital in
Carson City, Nevada, but provided only sparse descriptions of the road in his 1872 book
Roughing It. == Early history and maps of the California Trail (1826–1850) ==