of the
Mauryan Empire depicted on the
Amaravati Stupa, 1st century CE. The dhoti originated from the ancient
antariya, which was passed in between the legs, tucked at the back and covered the legs loosely, then flowed into long pleats at front of the legs, the same way it is worn today as formal dhoti. A l and short dhoti wraps around both legs firmly, in this style the back side of the dhoti is pulled to the front and tucked at the waist, before tucking the two loose ends at back, creating firmly fitted trouser-like dhoti that wraps around both legs. According to
G. S. Ghurye, this style is more commonly worn by farmers and martial artists. The earliest epigraphical depictions of the Dhoti were during the
Mauryan Empire. In the
Sunga period, there were two broad modes of wearing the dhoti, the
sakaccha and the
vikaccha. Stitched garments became popular in the Indian subcontinent, with the coming of Persians, Greeks, and "barbarians"; nonetheless, the dhoti prevailed in sakaccha as well as vikaccha forms. In the
sakaccha way, the cloth passed between the legs and was tucked at the back;
vikaccha meant wearing the dhoti similar to a
lungi. During British rule in
colonial India, the dhoti remained a
national symbol of resistance and cultural identity when worn without a shirt. At the height of the
Indian Independence Movement, weaving
khadi was a symbol of the
swadeshi movement. In 1921,
Gandhi championed the dhoti, often topless (without a kurta or shirt), to promote and identify with the
handicrafts produced by the rural and the poor of his
homeland. == Names==