Early years '' (Spring/Summer 1997) McQueen left school aged 16 in 1985 with only one
O-level in art and took a course in tailoring at
Newham College. The skills he learned as an apprentice on Savile Row helped earn him a reputation in the fashion world as an expert in creating an impeccably tailored look. McQueen later claimed that he had sewed obscenities into the lining of suits made for
Prince Charles, although a recall of suits made by Anderson & Sheppard to verify this claim found no evidence of this. Shortly after, he moved to fashion label
Red or Dead, working under designer John McKitterick; here he gained experience with
fetishwear. When McKitterick left Red or Dead in early 1990 to launch his own label, he hired McQueen. By this time, McQueen was interested in becoming a designer himself, and McKitterick recommended he try for an apprenticeship in Italy, then the centre of the fashion world. In spring 1990, McQueen left for
Milan, Italy. He had no standing job offer, but secured a position with
Romeo Gigli on the basis of his portfolio and tailoring experience. He resigned from Gigli's studio in July 1990, and had returned to London – and McKitterick's label – by August that year.
Central Saint Martins '', 1992. McQueen incorporated his own hair into the garment's lining and label. McQueen was still hungry to learn more about designing clothes, so McKitterick suggested he see
Bobby Hillson, the Head of the MA course in fashion at London art school
Central Saint Martins (CSM). Unable to afford the tuition, he borrowed £4,000 from his aunt Renee to cover it. McQueen started at CSM in October 1990. He met a number of his future collaborators there, including Simon Ungless, a friend and later house-mate, and Fleet Bigwood, a print tutor at the school. McQueen received his master's degree in fashion design after presenting his graduation collection at
London Fashion Week in March 1992. The collection, titled
Jack the Ripper Stalks His Victims, was bought in its entirety by magazine editor
Isabella Blow. Through the early days of McQueen's career, Isabella Blow helped pave the way using her unique style and contacts to help McQueen. She was in many ways his mentor, which grew into a close friendship. Blow was said to have persuaded McQueen to use his middle name Alexander when he subsequently launched his fashion career. McQueen had said that he refused to be photographed in his early career because he did not want to be recognised in the
dole office. In the 2018 documentary
McQueen, his boyfriend and assistant designer in the early days, Andrew Groves, said that McQueen dictated that they could only show him from behind to avoid being identified and losing his unemployment benefitshis only significant means of income at that time.
Own label In 1992, McQueen started his own label, and for a time he lived in the cellar of Blow's house in
Belgravia while it was under renovation. In 1993, he relocated to
Hoxton Square, an area that also housed other new designers including
Hussein Chalayan and
Pauric Sweeney. His first post-graduation collection,
Taxi Driver (Autumn/Winter 1993), was inspired by the 1976
Martin Scorsese film
of the same name. It was presented during
London Fashion Week in March 1993 on a clothes rack in a small room at the
Ritz Hotel. McQueen was one of six young designers sponsored by the
British Fashion Council that season. When the exhibit closed, McQueen packed the items into
bin bags and headed out clubbing. He stashed the bags behind one club, started drinking, and promptly forgot about them. When he returned the next day, the entire collection was gone. Nothing remains of the collection.
Early runway shows McQueen's first professional runway show in 1993, the Spring/Summer 1994's
Nihilism collection, was held at the
Bluebird Garage in
Chelsea. His early runway collections developed his reputation for controversy and shock tactics, earning him monikers like
enfant terrible and "the hooligan of English fashion". McQueen's
Nihilism collection, with some models looking bruised and bloodied in see-through clothes and extremely low-cut bumster trousers, was described by journalist
Marion Hume of
The Independent as "theatre of cruelty" and "a horror show". McQueen's second runway show was for the
Banshee collection. Shortly afterward, McQueen met Katy England, his soon to be "right hand woman", outside a "high profile fashion show" trying to "blag her way in". He asked her to join him as creative director for his following collection,
The Birds; McQueen's "bumsters" were a common feature of his early shows. Although derided by some and attracting many comments and debate, it spawned a trend in low-rise jeans, especially after
Madonna wore a pair in an
MTV advert in 1994.
Michael Oliveira-Salac, the director of Blow PR and a friend of McQueen's said, "The bumster for me is what defined McQueen."
Mainstream publicity '', Autumn/Winter 1995–96 Although McQueen had found some success with
The Birds, it was his controversial sixth collection,
Highland Rape (Autumn/Winter 1995), that properly made his name. The collection was inspired by Scottish history, particularly the
Highland Clearances of the late 18th and 19th centuries. Styling at the runway show was violent and aggressive: many of the showpieces were slashed or torn, while others were spattered with bleach or fake blood. Reviewers interpreted it as being about women who were raped and criticised what they saw as misogyny and the glamorisation of rape. McQueen denied this, arguing that it referred to "England's rape of Scotland", and was intended to counter other designers' romantic depiction of Scottish culture. As for the charge of
misogyny, he said he aimed to empower women and for people to be afraid of the women he dressed. His use of style as a protective barrier has been linked to his experience of witnessing violence against women in his family. McQueen followed
Highland Rape with
The Hunger (Spring/Summer 1996) and
Dante (Autumn/Winter 1996).
Dante further raised his international profile, and the collection was shown twice; first in
Christ Church, Spitalfields, London, later in a disused
synagogue in
New York, both attended by large enthusiastic crowds. McQueen won his first
British Designer of the Year award in 1996. , used in his
Earthling album and
tour McQueen's increasing prominence led to a number of projects for music artists. In 1996, he designed the wardrobe for
David Bowie's
tour of 1997, such as the
Union Jack coat worn by Bowie on the cover of his album
Earthling. Icelandic singer
Björk sought McQueen's work for the cover of her album
Homogenic in 1997. McQueen also directed the music video for her song "
Alarm Call" from the same album and later contributed the iconic topless dress to her video for "Pagan Poetry". McQueen continued to be criticised for misogyny in some of his later shows for designs that some considered degrading to women. In
Bellmer La Poupée (Spring/Summer 1997), inspired by
Hans Bellmer's
The Doll, McQueen placed models including the black model Debra Shaw in metal restraints, which observers interpreted as a reference to
slavery, while the silver mouthpiece in
Eshu (Autumn/Winter 2000) forced the wearer to bare her teeth. The fashion writer of the
Daily Mail called McQueen "the designer who hates women".
Givenchy appointment McQueen was appointed head designer of
Givenchy in 1996 to succeed
John Galliano who had moved to
Dior.
Hubert de Givenchy, founder of the label known for its elegant
couture, criticised McQueen's appointment, describing it as a "total disaster". In turn, upon his arrival at Givenchy, McQueen insulted the founder by calling him "irrelevant". McQueen's debut show for Givenchy, Spring/Summer 1997, featured Greek mythology-inspired gold and white designs. The collection was considered a failure by some critics in contrast to the praise lavished on
John Galliano's debut collection for
Dior. McQueen himself said to
Vogue in October 1997 that the collection was "crap". McQueen had toned down his designs at Givenchy, although he continued to indulge his rebellious streak. Givenchy designs released by Vogue Patterns during this period may be credited to the late designer. McQueen's relationship with Givenchy was fraught, and he left in March 2001 after his contract ended, with McQueen arguing that Givenchy had started to "constrain" his creativity. Models wore eye make-up to resemble gazelles and clothes with horns in the show. This collection, presented at London's
Borough Market, was judged a triumph.
Amy Spindler of
The New York Times, who had criticised his Givenchy debut, wrote that McQueen was "fashion's closest thing to a rock star. He isn't just part of the London scene; he is the scene." The London show restored his reputation and he went on to produce a number of well-received collections for Givenchy. while the following
Joan (after
Joan of Arc) ended with a masked model standing in a ring of fire. Some of the dresses incorporated Morris-inspired embroidery, and the show featured double amputee
Aimee Mullins in a pair of prosthetic legs intricately hand-carved in
ash.
The finale of the show, however, provided a counter-point to the anti-industrial ethic of the Arts and Crafts movement. It featured
Shalom Harlow in a white dress spray-painted in yellow and black by two robotic arms from a car manufacturing plant. It is considered one of the most memorable finales in fashion history. McQueen's following collection,
The Overlook (Autumn/Winter 1999), was named after the
Overlook Hotel from
Stanley Kubrick's 1980 film
The Shining. Inspired by the film's winter setting, the runway show featured a winter scene with ice-skaters and presented clothes mostly in white and grey. A notable creation in the show was the coiled corset made in collaboration with jeweller
Shaun Leane, who also crafted many other pieces for McQueen, including a Spine Corset (
Untitled Spring/Summer 1998) and a
yashmak in aluminium and crystal (
Eye, Spring/Summer 2000). The coiled corset, an expansion of the idea of a
coiled neck-piece made by Leane for ''It's a Jungle Out There'', was made out of aluminium rings. It was sold in 2017 for $807,000. McQueen held his first runway show in New York in 1999, titled
Eye (Spring/Summer 2000). The theme was the West's relationship with Islam and featured designs that were sexualised versions of traditional Islamic dress, which was poorly received by the critics. The show ended with models in
niqāb and
burqa floating above spikes that had appeared out of water.
Voss One of McQueen's most celebrated and dramatic catwalk shows was his 2001 Spring/Summer collection, named
Voss after
a Norwegian town known for its wildlife habitat. Nature was reflected in the natural material used in some of his clothes such as ostrich feathers, The centre piece tableau that dominated the show was an enormous dark glass box within a larger glass box. Inside the inner dark glass case was an interior filled with moths and, at the centre, a naked model on a chaise longue with her face obscured by a gas mask. The tableau was revealed when the glass walls of the inner box fell away towards the end of the show and smashed onto the ground. McQueen said that the tableau was based on the
Joel Peter Witkin image
Sanitarium. The show was designed with padded walls typical of psychiatric facilities. The model chosen by McQueen to be the centre of the show was the British writer
Michelle Olley. Models were styled with bandaged heads. The British fashion photographer
Nick Knight said of the VOSS show on his
SHOWstudio.com blog: "It was probably one of the best pieces of Fashion Theatre I have ever witnessed." Because the room outside the box was lit and the inside of the box was unlit before the show started, the glass walls appeared as large mirrors, so that the seated audience saw only their own reflection. Alexander McQueen later described his thoughts on the idea used during
VOSS of forcing his audience to stare at their own reflection in the mirrored walls for over an hour before the show started:
Gucci partnership '' Autumn/Winter 2008 Before his contract with Givenchy had finished, McQueen signed a deal with Givenchy's rival
Gucci in 2000, daring Givenchy to fire him. Gucci bought 51% of McQueen's company with McQueen remaining its creative director, McQueen continued to present his runway shows in the unconventional manner for which he had become known. The Autumn 2001 show, his last show in London before moving to Paris, featured a
merry-go-round with models in clown make-up dragging along a golden skeleton; the Autumn/Winter 2002
Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious collection was shown with live caged wolves and a black parachute cape inspired by
Tim Burton; the Autumn/Winter 2003
Scanners was presented in a snowy wasteland setting with models walking along a wind tunnel; and the Autumn 2004 show was a re-enactment of dance scenes from
Sydney Pollack's film ''
They Shoot Horses, Don't They?, choreographed for the show by Michael Clark. For the spring 2005 It's Only a Game collection, he presented a human chess game, and his autumn 2006 show The Widows of Culloden'', featured a life-sized
illusion of Kate Moss, an English supermodel, dressed in yards of rippling fabric. McQueen also became known for using skulls in his designs. A scarf bearing the skull motif, which first appeared in the
Irere Spring/Summer collection of 2003, became a celebrity must-have and was copied around the world. He was named
GQ magazine's Designer of the Year in 2004. In 2007, McQueen dedicated his Spring 2008 collection,
La Dame Bleue, to Isabella Blow, who had died by suicide earlier that year. The show included works by his long-time collaborator
Philip Treacy, another protégé of Blow. The collection had a bird theme and featured brightly coloured clothes with feathers. McQueen produced a well-received collection,
The Girl Who Lived in the Tree, for Autumn/Winter 2008. It was based on a story McQueen created about a feral girl who lived in a tree but transformed into a princess and married a prince to become a queen. He took inspiration from the queens of England and the British Raj and Empire to create a romantic and regal collection. The first half of the show focused on dark decorative dresses over petticoats, which became lighter and more lavish in the second half. The Spring/Summer 2009 collection,
Natural Dis-tinction Un-natural Selection, was inspired by
Charles Darwin who was the 'creator' of the theory of
natural selection, and the influence of the industrial revolution on nature. It was presented on a runway filled with
taxidermied animals. The show presented structured clothes that featured prints with images of natural materials, as well as crystal-encrusted bodysuits and
bell jar-shaped dresses. In 2009, McQueen also collaborated with dancer
Sylvie Guillem, director
Robert Lepage and choreographer
Russell Maliphant, designing the wardrobe for the theatre show "Eonnagata", which premiered at
Sadler's Wells in London.
''Plato's Atlantis'' s and head-dress by Michael Schmidt (2021) Alexander McQueen's last appearance on a fashion show was in ''Plato's Atlantis
, presented during Paris Fashion Week on 6 October 2009. This Spring/Summer 2010 collection was inspired by nature and the post-human manifesto featuring 46 full looks depicted with sea creature and reptile prints. McQueen installed two large cameras on the runway, both of which moved back and forth, documenting and broadcasting the entire show live on SHOWstudio. Plato's Atlantis'' was the first fashion show by any designer to be streamed live over the internet, although the website streaming it crashed after
Lady Gaga tweeted about the show before it started. The show began with a video of
Raquel Zimmermann lying naked on sand with snakes on her body. The fashion show and the collection addresses
Charles Darwin's theory of evolution as well as current
global warming issues. The fantasy collection, named after Plato's island that sank into the sea, envisaged a future where humans are forced to evolve from living on land to living in water in order to survive. The colour scheme changed during the show from green and brown (land) to blue and aqua (ocean). The models exhibited an androgynous look (which represents McQueen's evolutionary themes), as well as possessing post-human characteristics. The prints shifted from reptilian to prints of water creatures such as jellyfish and stingrays. The collection's final silhouettes gave the models marine features while the McQueen's signature
armadillo shoe also transformed the appearance of the models' anatomic foot. Plato's Atlantis was yet another way in which McQueen fused fashion with technology. The finale of the show was accompanied by the debut of Lady Gaga's single "
Bad Romance".
Final show '' exhibition At the time of Alexander McQueen's death, he had 16 pieces for his Autumn/Winter collection that were 80% finished. These outfits were completed by his design team, and shown in seven presentations to small, specially invited groups. This collection, unofficially titled
Angels and Demons, was first shown during
Paris Fashion Week on 8 March 2010, to a select handful of fashion editors in a mirrored, gilded salon at the 18th-century Hôtel de Clermont-Tonnerre. Some fashion editors said the show was hard to watch because it showed how McQueen was obsessed with the afterlife. The clothes presented had a medieval and religious look. Basic colours that were repetitively used were red, gold, and silver with detailed embroidery. The last outfit presented had a coat made of gold feathers (shown left). His models were accessorised to show his love for theatrical imagery. "Each piece is unique, as was he," McQueen's fashion house said in a statement that was released with the collection. After company owner Gucci confirmed that the brand would continue, McQueen's long-time assistant
Sarah Burton was named as the new creative director of Alexander McQueen in May 2010. In September 2010, Burton presented her first womenswear collection in Paris. ==Accomplishments==