Etymology (the
Welsh name of the city) derives from the
Middle Welsh . The change from to shows the colloquial alteration of Welsh
f and
dd and was perhaps also driven by
folk etymology. This
sound change probably first occurred in the
Middle Ages; both forms were current in the
Tudor period. has its origins in
post-Roman Brythonic words meaning "the fort of the
Taff". The
fort probably refers to that established by the
Romans. is Welsh for
fort and is a form of (Taff), the river which flows by Cardiff Castle, with the showing
consonant mutation to , as is normal in compound words, and the vowel showing
affection as a result of a (lost)
genitive case ending. The
anglicised Cardiff is derived from , with the Welsh
f borrowed as
ff , as also happens in
Taff (from Welsh ) and
Llandaff (from Welsh ). The antiquarian
William Camden (1551–1623) suggested that the name Cardiff may derive from * ("the Fort of Didius"), a name supposedly given in honour of , governor of a nearby province at the time when the Roman fort was established. Although some sources repeat this theory, it has been rejected on linguistic grounds by modern scholars such as Professor Pierce.
Origins Archaeological evidence from sites in and around Cardiff show that people had settled in the area by at least around 6000 BC, during the early Neolithic: about 1,500 years before either
Stonehenge or the
Great Pyramid of Giza was completed. These include the
St Lythans burial chamber near
Wenvoe, (approximately west of Cardiff city centre); the
Tinkinswood burial chamber, near
St. Nicholas (about west of Cardiff city centre), the Cae'rarfau
Chambered Tomb,
Creigiau (about northwest of Cardiff city centre) and the Gwern y Cleppa
long barrow, near
Coedkernew,
Newport (about northeast of Cardiff city centre). A group of five
Bronze Age tumuli is at the summit of the
Garth, within the county's northern boundary. Four
Iron Age hill fort and
enclosure sites have been identified within Cardiff's county boundaries, including
Caerau Hillfort, an enclosed area of . part of the original Roman fort beneath the red stones Until the
Roman conquest of Britain, Cardiff was part of the territory of the
Silures – a
Celtic British tribe that flourished in the
Iron Age – whose territory included the areas that would become known as
Breconshire,
Monmouthshire and Glamorgan. The
fort established by the
Romans near the mouth of the
River Taff in AD 75, in what would become the north western boundary of the centre of Cardiff, was built over an extensive settlement that had been established by the Romans in the 50s AD. The fort was one of a series of military outposts associated with (
Caerleon) that acted as border defences. The fort may have been abandoned in the early 2nd century as the area had been subdued. However, by this time a civilian settlement, or , was established. It was likely made up of traders who made a living from the fort, ex-soldiers and their families. A
Roman villa has been discovered at
Ely. Contemporary with the
Saxon Shore forts of the 3rd and 4th centuries, a stone fortress was established at Cardiff. Similar to the shore forts, the fortress was built to protect
Britannia from raiders. Coins from the reign of
Gratian indicate that Cardiff was inhabited until at least the 4th century; the fort was abandoned towards the end of the 4th century, as the last Roman legions left the province of Britannia with
Magnus Maximus. Little is known of the fort and civilian settlement in the period between the Roman departure from Britain and the Norman Conquest. The settlement probably shrank in size and may even have been abandoned. In the absence of Roman rule, Wales was divided into small kingdoms; early on,
Meurig ap Tewdrig emerged as the local king in
Glywysing (which later became
Glamorgan). The area passed through his family until the advent of the Normans in the 11th century.
Norman occupation and Middle Ages In 1081
William I, King of England visited Cardiff as part of an
armed pilgrimage across South Wales and ordered work to begin on the castle keep within the walls of the old Roman fort. Cardiff Castle has been at the heart of the city ever since. The castle was substantially altered and extended during the Victorian period by
John Crichton-Stuart, 3rd Marquess of Bute, and the architect
William Burges. Original Roman work can, however, still be distinguished in the wall facings. A town grew up under the castle, consisting mainly of settlers from England. Cardiff had a population of between 1,500 and 2,000 in the Middle Ages – a normal size for a Welsh town in the period. It was the centre of the Norman
Marcher Lordship of Glamorgan. By the end of the 13th century, Cardiff was the only town in Wales with a population exceeding 2,000, although it remained relatively small compared with notable towns in England and continued to be contained within its walls, which were begun as a wooden
palisade in the early 12th century. It was of sufficient size and importance to receive a series of charters, notably in 1331 from William La Zouche, Lord of Glamorgan through marriage with the
de Clare family,
Edward III in 1359, then
Henry IV in 1400, As many of the buildings were made of timber and tightly packed within the town walls, much of Cardiff was destroyed. The settlement was soon rebuilt on the same street plan and began to flourish again. around the same time the Herberts became the most powerful family in the area. and James I in 1608. In 1573, it was made a head port for collection of customs duties. 's map of Cardiff from 1610 A
disastrous flood in the
Bristol Channel on 30 January 1607 (now believed to have been a tidal wave) changed the course of the River Taff and ruined
St Mary's Parish Church, which was replaced by a chapel of ease dedicated to St John the Baptist. During the
Second English Civil War St Fagans, just to the west of the town, the
Battle of St Fagans, between
Royalist rebels and a
New Model Army detachment, was a decisive victory for the
Parliamentarians that allowed
Oliver Cromwell to conquer Wales. A
racecourse,
printing press, bank and
coffee house opened in the 1790s and Cardiff gained a
stagecoach service to London. Despite these improvements, Cardiff's position in the Welsh
urban hierarchy declined over the 18th century.
Iolo Morganwg called it "an obscure and inconsiderable place" and the
1801 census found a population of only 1,870, making it only the 25th largest town in Wales, well behind
Merthyr and
Swansea.
Building the docks In 1793,
John Crichton-Stuart, 2nd Marquess of Bute was born. He spent his life building the Cardiff docks and was later hailed as "the creator of modern Cardiff". and in 1821, the Cardiff Gas Works was established. The town grew rapidly from the 1830s onwards, when the
Marquess of Bute built a
dock, which eventually linked to the
Taff Vale Railway. Cardiff became the main port for coal exports from the
Cynon,
Rhondda, and
Rhymney valleys, and grew in population at a rate of nearly 80 per cent per decade between 1840 and 1870. Much of this was due to migration from within and outside Wales: in 1841, a quarter of Cardiff's population were English-born and more than 10 per cent born in Ireland. By the 1881 census, Cardiff had overtaken Merthyr and Swansea to become the largest town in Wales. Cardiff's status as the premier town in South Wales was confirmed when it was chosen as the site for the
University College of South Wales and Monmouthshire in 1883. Cardiff faced a challenge in the 1880s when
David Davies of Llandinam and the
Barry Railway Company promoted rival docks at
Barry. These had the advantage of being accessible in all
tides: David Davies claimed his venture would cause "grass to grow in the streets of Cardiff". From 1901 coal exports from Barry surpassed those from Cardiff, but the administration of the coal trade remained centred on Cardiff, in particular its
Coal Exchange, where the price of coal on the British market was determined and the first million-pound deal was struck in 1907.
County Borough of Cardiff Cardiff became a
county borough on 1 April 1889 under the
Local Government Act 1888. The town had grown rapidly and had a population of over 123,000. It retained its county borough status until 1974.
City and capital city status , the only medieval building next to Cardiff Castle to still be in city centre. Seen here in 1852 King
Edward VII granted Cardiff
city status on 28 October 1905. It acquired a Roman Catholic cathedral in 1916. Later, more national institutions came to the city, including the
National Museum of Wales, the
Welsh National War Memorial, and the
University of Wales Registry Building, but it was denied the
National Library of Wales, partly because the library's founder, Sir John Williams, considered Cardiff to have "a non-Welsh population".
Caernarfon had also vied for the title. Welsh local authorities had been divided: only 76 out of 161 chose Cardiff in a 1924 poll organised by the
South Wales Daily News. The subject was not debated again until 1950, and meanwhile Cardiff took steps to promote its "Welshness". The stalemate between Cardiff and cities such as Caernarfon and Aberystwyth was not broken until Cardiganshire County Council decided to support Cardiff; and in a new local authority vote, 134 out of 161 voted for Cardiff. consistent with a wider pattern of counter-urbanisation in Britain. However, it recovered to become one of the few cities outside London where population grew in the 1990s. During this period the
Cardiff Bay Development Corporation was promoting the
redevelopment of south Cardiff; an evaluation of the regeneration of Cardiff Bay published in 2004 concluded that the project had "reinforced the competitive position of Cardiff" and "contributed to a massive improvement in the quality of the built environment, although it had "failed "to attract the major inward investors originally anticipated". In the
1997 Welsh devolution referendum, Cardiff voters rejected the establishment of the National Assembly for Wales by 55.4% to 44.2% on a 47% turnout, which Denis Balsom partly ascribed to a general preference in Cardiff and some other parts of Wales for a British rather than exclusively Welsh
identity. The relative lack of local support for the Assembly and difficulties between the Welsh Office and Cardiff Council in acquiring the originally preferred venue,
Cardiff City Hall, encouraged other local authorities to bid to house the Assembly. However, the Assembly was eventually located at
Tŷ Hywel in Cardiff Bay in 1999. In 2005, a new debating chamber on an adjacent site, designed by
Richard Rogers, was opened. ==Government==