High fashion , Fall 2008 Since the early 20th century, gay men, both out and closeted, have worked as some of the world's most influential fashion designers and started some of the most important fashion houses.
Cristóbal Balenciaga (b. 1895), who started the
Balenciaga brand, was gay but remained private about his sexuality for his entire life. His long-time partner, Franco-Polish millionaire Władzio Jaworowski d'Attainville, set up the fund for him to start the house. After d'Attainville died, Balenciaga's following collection was designed entirely in black to mourn his loss. The French fashion designer
Christian Dior (b. 1905) was another hugely influential fashion designer of the 20th century. Dior never married nor openly identified as a gay man, however, he was known to frequent the gay cultural scene in Paris and was infamously described by
Coco Chanel as never having intimately "known" a woman.
Yves Saint Laurent (b. 1935), also regarded as being among the foremost fashion designers
in the twentieth century, was openly gay; his long-time partner was Pierre Berge.
Gianni Versace (b. 1946), an Italian fashion designer and founder of
Versace, publicly came out in an interview with
The Advocate in July 1995. Versace was murdered in 1997. A younger generation of gay men gained prominence in the fashion world during the late twentieth and early twenty-first centuries.
Tom Ford (b. 1961) founded his eponymous brand
Tom Ford in 2005 and has stated that he realized he was gay as a young man visiting
Studio 54 in the 1980s.
Alexander McQueen (b. 1969), who was also openly gay, founded his own label
Alexander McQueen in 1992 and was recognized as a fashion prodigy for his revolutionary designs. McQueen said he realized his
sexual orientation when he was six years old. In 2000, McQueen had a
marriage ceremony with his partner George Forsyth, a documentary filmmaker, on a yacht in
Ibiza. McQueen died by suicide in 2010, shortly after the death of his mother. In recent years, gay men have continued to produce some of the most influential fashion in the world, including by designers such as
Jeremy Scott (b. 1975),
Jason Wu (b. 1982), and
Alexander Wang (b. 1983).
Art In the 20th century, gay men were amongst the Western world's most influential and prolific artists, writers, and dancers. In the United States by mid-century,
James Baldwin (b. 1924) was considered one of the best writers of his generation. His work, including ''
Giovanni's Room'' (1956) dealt openly with homosexuality and
bisexuality at a time when sex between men was still illegal throughout much of the Western world. Other major artists of Baldwin's generation, including
Robert Rauschenberg (b. 1925) and
Jasper Johns (b. 1930), were less open about their sexuality, and even made fun of other young gay artists of their generation, such as
Andy Warhol, for being too feminine. In the world of New York dance,
Alvin Ailey (b. 1931) fused theater, modern dance, ballet, and jazz with black vernacular, and his choreographic magnum opus
Revelations is recognized as one of the most popular and most performed ballets in the world. Ailey remained closeted for much of his life, and he passed from an AIDS related illness at the age of 58.
David Hockney (b. 1937), another major artist of the
Silent Generation, was an important contributor to the
pop art movement of the 1960s and is considered one of the most influential British artists of the 20th century. He has been openly gay for much of his life. Many of the most influential gay and bisexual artists of the
Boomer and
X generations died at very early ages during the AIDS crises, including
Carlos Almaraz (b. 1941),
Robert Mapplethorpe (b. 1946),
Félix González-Torres (b. 1957), and
Keith Haring (b. 1958). Much of the
Art of the AIDS Crisis was highly political and critical of the U.S. government and has been described as "afraid, angry, fearful, and defiant". In the aftermath of the HIV/AIDS epidemic, gay men and other queer artists pioneered a new form of experimental filmmaking called
New Queer Cinema. Today, gay men such as
Mark Bradford,
Julio Salgado, and
Kehinde Wiley are amongst the most influential artists of their generation. Much of contemporary Western gay art today deals with themes of body, identity, and experience. Outside of the West, art containing themes of gay male sexuality is still considered subversive and taboo. In
Singapore, which criminalized all sexual acts between men through
Section 377A of the Penal Code until 2022, art by gay men is considered
countercultural. Gay men in Singapore historically have been depicted negatively in local mainstream media, and efforts to counter this
discrimination from wider Singaporean society has been made difficult because of the risk of jail, bans, and censorship by the state.
Film and media art In the United States,
Andy Warhol made underground films with queer themes and actors. His work had an international influence in queer film art. The
avant-garde director
Rosa von Praunheim made more than 100 films on queer topics since the late 1960s, some of them have been evaluated internationally. Some films are considered milestones in queer cinema. Von Praunheim is internationally recognized as an icon of queer cinema. The director
Rainer Werner Fassbinder had an early influence on queer cinema with films like
Querelle (1982). These filmmakers and others pioneered queer Hollywood productions like
Brokeback Mountain (2005), which reached an audience of millions.
Drag Drag queens are a significant part of the popular culture of gay men and are regularly featured in
gay bars. Drag queens use
drag clothing and makeup to imitate and often exaggerate
female gender signifiers and
gender roles as part of a performance used for artistic or entertainment purposes. Drag shows often include
lip-syncing, dancing, and live singing. They occur at events like
drag pageants and
gay pride parades and in
nightclubs and
cabarets, as well as in local gay bars. Drag queens vary by dedication, type, and culture, and range from professionals who star in films and on
Broadway, such as
Gene Malin,
Divine, or
Rupaul, to people who do drag only occasionally. Drag balls themselves have a long history for gay men in the United States. In 1869 at the
Hamilton Lodge in
Harlem, the first drag balls were held. These balls were held in secret, but news grew of their existence as a safe place for gay men to congregate. This flourishing of gay life in the 1920s and 30s was part of a period known as the
Pansy Craze. More recently, the film
Paris is Burning (1990) detailed the drag ball scene of New York City and showcased the lives and experiences of a group of young "butch queens" (cisgender gay men), transgender women, drag queens, and butch women. Since its release, the film has become a
cult classic and has served as an organizing and academic tool for the gay and trans communities (though it has been subject to significant criticism). Meanwhile, the television reality program ''
RuPaul's Drag Race'' has been on-air in the United States since 2009 and has introduced the straight mainstream to gay men's popular culture through drag. The original American series has since developed into the global
Drag Race franchise. In the 2020s, a wave of anti-LGBTQ backlash in the United States resulted in what is known as the
Drag panic. As part of this backlash, some U.S. states, such as
Tennessee, criminalized the public performance of drag.
Camp 2013 Camp is a visual
aesthetic style often associated with gay men. An English definition of the term first appeared in a 1909 edition of the
Oxford English Dictionary: "ostentatious, exaggerated, affected, theatrical;
effeminate or homosexual; pertaining to, characteristic of, homosexuals". From its original meaning, the term has evolved to signify an inversion of aesthetic attributes such as beauty, value, and
taste through exaggeration and
irony. Camp is often mistaken with
kitsch and has been described as "cheesy". In 1964, Susan Sontag's essay
Notes on "Camp" emphasized camp's key elements as: "artifice, frivolity, naïve middle-class pretentiousness, and shocking excess". In recent years, gay men have sought to disassociate themselves from the term. In a 2018 interview, director
Ryan Murphy said he believed camp was "a lazy catchall that gets thrown at gay artists in order to marginalize their ambitions, to frame their work as niche" and preferred to describe his visual aesthetic style as "
baroque". As some gay men have moved away from the term, however, mainstream straight society has appropriated it. In 2019, the New York
Metropolitan Museum of Art hosted its annual event, the
Met Gala, with the theme titled "Notes on Camp". That same year, the museum presented its full exhibit "Camp: Notes on Fashion", in which it presented numerous "campy" women's dresses. Nevertheless, in drag performances and at gay pride events, many gay men continue to embrace a camp aesthetic. ==Representation in media==