Settlement and colonization The forest in what is now Van Cortlandt Park has been around for 17,000 years, since the end of the
Wisconsin glaciation. The
Wiechquaskeck, a
Wappinger people, were among the first recorded people to inhabit in the area now referred to as Van Cortlandt Park. They settled in the area around the 14th or 15th centuries. The Lenapes used the geographic features of the area to support their community; for instance, they used the
Tibbetts Brook,
Spuyten Duyvil Creek, or
Hudson River for fishing, and flatland areas for farming. They formed a village named Keskeskick, whose name roughly translates to "sharp grass or sedge marsh" in the
Unami language. The strip of land on the Hudson River's east bank, between the current-day Spuyten Duyvil Creek and
Yonkers, was sold to the
Dutch West India Company in the early 17th century.
Adriaen van der Donck, a Dutch settler, bought the land from the company in 1646. Van der Donck also paid the Indian chief Tacharew, whose tribe used to live on the land, as a friendly gesture. He named the land "
Colen Donck" and built a house upon the land. The house was built between current-day Van Cortlandt Lake and
Broadway. It faced south, probably because this was the location of a natural marshland. What is now the parade ground was used by van der Donck for farming. Van der Donck died in 1655. That year the Munsee bands that lived in the lower Hudson River valley briefly occupied New Amsterdam and attacked
Pavonia and
Staten Island during what is known as the
Peach War. This forced the settlers, including van der Donck's widow, to flee to Manhattan. Following the takeover of the
New Netherland colony by the British in 1664, the claim to the estate was awarded to Hugh O'Neale, the new husband of van der Donck's widow. Because the O'Neales lived far away from the land, the claim was awarded to O'Neale's brother-in-law and van der Donck's widow's brother, Elias Doughty, who proceeded to sell off the portions of the property. This property included the modern park parade grounds. Next, Doughty sold a tract of land, including the current site of the
Van Cortlandt House, to
Frederick Philipse,
Thomas Delavall, and Thomas Lewis. Philipse bought out Delavall's and Lewis's land shares, making the land part of the
Philipsburg Manor, which extended from Spuyten Duyvil Creek to the
Croton River in modern
Westchester County. Philipse's wife died, and he remarried Olof Stevense Van Cortlandt's daughter, herself a widow. Philipse's daughter Eva later married
Jacobus Van Cortlandt, who was Mrs. Philipse's brother. The land that Van Cortlandt Park now occupies was acquired by Van Cortlandt from Philipse in the mid-to-late 1690s. In 1699, Van Cortlandt dammed Tibbetts Brook in order to power a
sawmill (and later, a
gristmill,), creating
Van Cortlandt Lake as a
mill pond in the process. In 1732, Van Cortlandt acquired an additional parcel from the Tippett family. The estate was then passed on to Jacobus's son Frederick Van Cortlandt (1699–1749) and family in 1739; it was once a vast grain plantation. In 1748, Frederick built the Van Cortlandt House on the former Tippett property, but died before its completion. The Van Cortlandts did not primarily live in that house, instead staying in Manhattan most of the time. A family burial ground was created in 1749, later to be known as "Vault Hill." Frederick, who was buried in Vault Hill, British General
William Howe made the house his headquarters on November 13, 1776, thus placing it behind British-held ground. The house itself was
Washington's headquarters after his troops were defeated in the 1776
Battle of Long Island. In 1781, Washington returned to the house to strategize with Rochambeau while their troops waited outside on what is now the Parade Ground and Vault Hill. He later lit campfires outside the house to deceive the British into thinking that his troops were still on the grounds. Douglass made estimates for the new aqueduct in 1833–1834 and John Martineau performed a separate study in 1834. Both found the proposed route, which ran through the present-day park, to be okay. The project was built by 3,000–4,000 laborers who completed the entire aqueduct in five years. The old aqueduct was supplemented by the
New Croton Aqueduct in 1890, which also ran through the park. The Old Croton Aqueduct was in use until 1955, though the part that ran through the park was closed down in 1897 after the new aqueduct was connected to the
Jerome Park Reservoir.
Planning In 1876,
Frederick Law Olmsted was hired to survey the Bronx and map out streets based on the local geography. Olmsted noted the natural beauty of the Van Cortlandt estate, comparing it to
Central Park which he designed, and recommended the city purchase the property. Around the same time,
New York Herald editor
John Mullaly pushed for the creation of parks in New York City, particularly lauding the Van Cortlandt and
Pell families' properties in the western and eastern Bronx respectively. He formed the
New York Park Association in November 1881. There were objections to the system, which would apparently be too far from Manhattan, in addition to precluding development on the site. However, newspapers and prominent lobbyists, who supported such a park system, were able to petition the bill into the
New York State Senate, and later, the
New York State Assembly (the legislature's
lower house). In June 1884, Governor
Grover Cleveland signed the
New Parks Act into law, authorizing the creation of the park system. Legal disputes carried on for years, exacerbated by the fact that Luther R. Marsh, vice president of the New York Park Association, owned land near Van Cortlandt Park in particular. Opponents argued that building a park system would divert funds from more important infrastructure like schools and docks; that everyone in the city, instead of just the property owners near the proposed park, was required to pay taxes to pay for the parks' construction; and that since Marsh was trying to parcel off some of his land to developers, the park's size should be reduced in order to prevent him from profiting off park usage. However, most of this opposition was directed at the construction of
Pelham Bay Park, which was then in Westchester. Supporters argued that the parks were for the benefit of all the city's citizens, thus justifying the citywide park tax; that the value of properties near the parks would appreciate greatly over time; that the commission had only chosen property that could easily be converted into a park; and that Pelham Bay Park would soon be annexed to the city. Ultimately, the parks were established despite the objections of major figures like Mayors
William Russell Grace and
Abram Hewitt; Comptroller Edward V. Loew; and Assemblymen
Henry Bergh and Theodore Roosevelt. , Van Cortlandt Station inside the park|alt=Remains of the New York and Putnam Railroad's Van Cortlandt Station inside the park In 1880 while the new park was being planned, the New York City & Northern Railroad, later the
New York and Putnam Railroad, was built through the center of the park. It had two stops in the Bronx: one inside the park, and another to the south at
Kingsbridge. South of Kingsbridge, the railroad merged with the present-day
Hudson Line of the
Metro-North Railroad. The Parade Ground was immediately used by the
National Guard for
brigade practice, replacing the parade ground of
Prospect Park. The ground received unspecified "improvements" in 1893–1894. With the city's approval, particularly overgrown areas of the property were made passable. Wide walking paths were built over original walkways, including the thin paths that led to the Van Cortlandt family cemetery, high on the nearby bluffs. "Certain lands" around the house were then filled in for the purpose of creating a "Colonial Garden," which was proposed in 1897. During excavation of the grounds, Indian artifacts and graves were found, corresponding to the old village of Keskeskick. The nine-hole Van Cortlandt Golf Course opened on July 6, 1895, as the country's first and oldest public golf course. The course comprised current holes 1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 12, 13, and 14. The first eight holes were easier and less than apart, but the last one had a
fairway in length. The ninth hole, which spanned two stone walls and two small brooks, was among the country's hardest holes. Four years after the course opened, the city hired
Tom Bendelow, nicknamed the "Johnny Appleseed of Golf", to expand it to 18 holes. where they stayed until they were shipped to prairie land in
Oklahoma later that year. The Colonial Garden, designed by landscape architect
Samuel Parsons, started construction in 1902 and opened the following June. Besides plants, the garden had rustic wooden bridges and wooden stairs and a "handsome fountain and central court." A "Shakespeare Garden" was also opened that year, with a grand stairway leading down to it. The next year, park officials realized that the Colonial Garden's construction was of poor quality and hard to cultivate. The garden had to be raised , and a
nursery needed to be built to transport the plants during the garden's reconstruction. The rustic wooden bridges were to be replaced with stone bridges, while the wooden stairs were to be superseded by stone stairs. Not only did many plants die during the process, but the actual rebuilding was delayed until 1911. Two years later, the Parks Commissioner for the Bronx refused to allocate reconstruction funds because, he stated, the garden looked just fine. Under threat of tearing the garden down, the city had to find money to fill and drain the ground. The rebuilding contract was awarded in 1909 and completed by 1911.
Early years Various adjustments were made over succeeding years. A network of
roads through the park was built soon after, allowing the construction of picnic areas and hiking trails as well as making the forests more accessible to visitors. A stone memorial was placed at Indian Field in 1906, The marshlands were filled in between 1906 and 1922. The marsh to the southwest of the Van Cortlandt Station was converted to a lake. An "outlet sewer" under Broadway was built in 1907. From 1903 to 1911, NYC Parks cleaned the Van Cortlandt Lake, removed the original
earthen dam, and emptied the lake in order to
dredge the lake bed to a lower depth. A new dam was installed to reform the lake. The former marshland was filled in. During a 1910s excavation for a sewer pipe, stones were unearthed that were suspected to be from the old van der Donck estate. During
World War I, the Parade Ground was used to train soldiers. However, during and following World War I, the Parade Ground was used for war training. Until 1926, the baseball fields did not contain
backstops, and had to be vacated by July 4 of every year, so the National Guard could use the field. , 1936|upright=1.1|alt=Van Cortlandt Park painting by Oscar Florianus Bluemner, created in 1936 The
cross-country running course was inaugurated in 1914. The track started out as a flat path, became hilly, turned onto a "little spell of road work," went into the forest, and crossed a water before turning back. A year later, it hosted the Metropolitan Association of the Amateur Athletic Union's Junior and Senior Cross Country championships. A modified cross-country course opened on November 5, 1921, with runners simply changing direction at the city border. The new course, which started at the original polo fields, did not conflict with either of the golf courses. In 1922, there was a proposal to acquire land for the future
Saw Mill River Parkway, which would connect the park to of open space in Westchester when completed. Through the 1930s, the
New York City Department of Parks and Recreation kept adding new recreational facilities in the park. The Colonial and Shakespeare Gardens had a combined 250,000 flowers by 1931, but both were demolished by the end of the decade due to bad drainage. In 1934,
Robert Moses became the New York City Parks Commissioner, and during his 16-year tenure as commissioner, altered almost every aspect of the park. His job partially entailed balancing the needs of area residents, whose numbers had grown in the past decade, with transit users who traveled to the park from the north and south. Moses's development plans in the 1930s called for the construction of the
Henry Hudson Parkway and
Mosholu Parkway to bisect Van Cortlandt Park and meet at a
trumpet interchange about half a mile north of the center, merging into the Saw Mill River Parkway. Due to objections over the construction of roads inside the park, the width of the
parkways' lanes was reduced. Tibbetts Brook was dredged and landscaped in 1938 to accommodate construction. Such construction continued until 1955, during which the
Major Deegan Expressway (current
Interstate 87) was also built, bisecting the Mosholu Parkway. This conflicted with Moses's plans for the park as a "rural oasis", as highway construction ultimately separated the park into six pieces and demolished most of the remaining marsh in the park. This construction also induced
siltation of the brook, leading to further creation of marshes. Moses also made improvements to the park itself, building new walkways, paving dirt roads, creating playgrounds, and installing lights. Baseball, soccer, and cricket fields were added in 1938. The Van Cortlandt Stadium was added in 1939 on the site of a former swamp, and a pool followed in 1970. Moses also landscaped the areas near the
Woodlawn and
242nd Street subway stations to attract park visitors from other neighborhoods. During his tenure as Parks Commissioner, Moses took aggressive approach to preserving the park's quality. For instance, six mothers were issued court summonses in 1942 after letting their children dig in the park, and two airplane pilots were fined in 1947 for unauthorized airplane landings. Around 1939, the old aqueduct, which was now a popular hiking trail, started becoming a popular route with cyclists. Soon after, there was a proposal to redevelop the trail as a bike path. This proposal never came to fruition, although in the mid-1970s, the city built a separate bike path along Mosholu Parkway, the
Bronx River Parkway, and
Pelham Parkway between Jerome Avenue and Pelham Bay Park.
Decline By the 1960s, large portions of the park, such as Tibbetts Brook, were being polluted by human activity; in addition, the brook now flowed into the Broadway sewer at the south end of Van Cortlandt Lake. Pollution from upstream and the highways, and spillover of chemicals used in the golf course, killed fish in the lake. This problem was first noticed in May 1961 when thousands of dead
bass,
pickerel,
catfish,
perch, and
carp floated up at the edge of the lake. The mass-death of fish was blamed on siltation, Three years later, fish were still being killed by siltation. City investigators took water samples from the lake and found that they contained large amounts of
weeds and
sediment. About of the lake's surface area was being lost to sedimentation every year. In addition, an
algal bloom caused the lake to be in a
low-oxygen condition, endangering plants and animals in and around the lake. The seasonal ski slope was closed in the late 1960s when the city decided to allow golfers to use the Van Cortlandt Course during winters. Also in the late 1960s, the city decided to build a series of public pools on the site of the Colonial Garden, consisting of a diving, a swimming, and a wading pool. Construction on the $1.5 million pools started in early 1969 and was completed by 1970. Because of the swampy nature of the ground underneath it, the pools soon began to crackle and set. By 1979, the locker rooms were heavily vandalized and the diving pool had been closed. The
city's fiscal crisis in the 1970s caused the rest of the park to fall into disrepair. A dearth of funds exacerbated the pollution of the park. Hands-on education programs at the park were reduced to passive observations of flora and fauna. A year later, a private landscaping firm estimated that it would cost $4–7 million to restore the Van Cortlandt Lake. By this point, the lake was so dirty that a small boat could not float on it, even though the lake was deep. Catfish were the only fish that could survive in the lake water. The city of Yonkers eventually attributed the cause of the Van Cortlandt Lake's pollution to four storm sewers that were found to be illegally connected to Tibbetts Brook upstream. The utter disrepair in the park prompted some informal rules at the park's golf courses. For instance, the
Los Angeles Times noted that "a player was allowed to drop his ball a club length away if it rolled up against an abandoned auto, or, in one case, a boat. To thwart robbers, besieged golfers quit playing in traditional foursomes and instead ventured forth in football-team-sized units. Some players added an extra club—a night stick—or tucked tear gas spray into their golf bags." Years later, one writer recalled that dozens of the course's trees died, and "flagsticks were reduced to broken bamboo poles stuck into the ground." Weeds overgrew the course, and golfers would wear long-sleeved shirts to ward off against the city's insufficient mosquito repellents. Homeless
squatters moved into the park, while courses fell into disrepair, replaced by dirt tracks and "huts and forts" built by neighborhood kids. A lack of annual maintenance of the park's jogging tracks and bridle paths had caused them to erode and become overgrown at some places. The Parade Ground remained popular, and the
New York Philharmonic and
Metropolitan Opera performed in the field during the summer. It too had deteriorated because of intensive use: the grounds' topsoil had eroded away and the sidewalks started to buckle.
Improvements 1970s to 1990s In 1978–1979, NYC Parks performed a wholesale renovation of the park's eroded and dilapidated bridle paths and jogging tracks. Around that time, the
Perrier Company donated a
fitness trail consisting of 12 exercise machines to the park; there were originally supposed to be 18 machines, but the extra six machines were deemed unnecessary. Two
shuffleboard courts were also installed in the Parade Grounds the same year, but went unused because of a lack of playing equipment. In response to studies and accounts that showed the bad condition of the lake, the state restored the fish population of the lake in 1978. The Friends of Van Cortlandt Park soon came up with its own suggestions to improve the park. After the parcourse for the parade grounds was approved in 1978, the New York City Department of Parks promised to cooperate on the Van Cortlandt Park improvement plans. Since then, there have been seven plans for restoring natural elements of the park, as well as three plans for park restoration. Gradual improvements began taking place in the late 1980s, including the addition of new pathways, signage, and security, as well as the restoration of playgrounds and other recreational facilities. In January 1988, NYC Parks conducted a study to determine the specific elements of the park that needed restoration. Highway structures were also reconfigured to clean
runoff from these structures. An excavation in the 1990s yielded over 2,500 artifacts. A set of tennis courts were proposed within the park east of the Van Cortlandt House in the 1990s; despite concerns from preservationists, though the courts were approved.
2000s to present The city built the
Croton Water Filtration Plant, a
drinking water treatment facility, under the park's
Mosholu Golf Course. The plant was needed to filter contaminants from
urban runoff pollution in the
Croton River watershed and protect the public from
Giardia and
Cryptosporidium, microorganisms which can cause serious health problems. The Croton plant was built after a lawsuit was filed in 1997 against the city by the
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), the
U.S. Department of Justice and the
State of New York. The city settled the suit and a
consent decree was issued with the condition that the city would build the plant by 2006. The project experienced delays and ballooning costs due to objections from the local community, which required the city to propose alternate sites for the plant. The plant was built 160 feet (49 m) below the Mosholu Golf Course, at a cost of $3.2 billion, and was finished in 2015. The Sachkerah Woods Playground, located at the park's southeast corner near the Mosholu Golf Course, was also built using Croton mitigation funds. As part of the "Van Cortlandt Park Master Plan 2034", critical ecological elements of the park, such as the forest, the rural landscape, and Tibbetts Brook, would be restored, and the brook would be diverted. when the report was written, the lack of natural drainage points within Van Cortlandt Park led to the flooding of recreational areas within the park during heavy rains. The park's paths would also be restored with the addition of three new pedestrian bridges; a playground; four activity centers, of which two would be outdoors and two would be indoors; a skate park; an athletic field; and three basketball courts built within the park. "Comfort stations" and food concessions would also be added. The Van Cortlandt Golf Course was renovated in 2016. The skate park, new playground, and path improvements were completed in 2020. NYC Parks started renovating the Woodlawn Playground in 2021 for $1 million. One of the pedestrian bridges, which would have crossed the Major Deegan Expressway, was postponed in 2020 after its cost had increased to $23 million; the bridge was canceled in 2023. ==Geography ==