Founding Pre-colonial history The first humans to settle in the area were the
Cahuilla people, who arrived 2,000 years ago. Cahuilla Indians lived here in isolation from other cultures for hundreds of years prior to European contact. They spoke
Ivilyuat, which is a
Uto-Aztecan language. Numerous prominent and powerful Cahuilla leaders were from the area, including Cahuilla Lion (
Chief Juan Antonio). Palm Canyon was occupied during the winter months, but they often moved to cooler
Chino Canyon during the summer months. The Cahuilla Indians had several permanent settlements in the canyons of Palm Springs due to the abundance of water and shade. Various
hot springs were used during wintertime. The Cahuilla hunted rabbit, mountain goat, and quail while trapping fish in nearby lakes and rivers. While men were responsible for hunting, women were responsible for collecting berries, acorns, and seeds. They also made tortillas from mesquite seeds. Ancient petroglyphs,
pictographs and mortar holes can be seen in Andreas Canyon. The mortar holes were used to grind acorns into meal. The Agua Caliente ("Hot Water") Reservation was established in 1876 and consists of . are located by Downtown Palm Springs. The Native American land is on long lease land and next to one of California's high-end communities, making the tribe one of the wealthiest in California. The first name for Palm Springs was given by the native Cahuilla: "Se-Khi" (boiling water). When the
Agua Caliente Reservation was established by the United States government in 1876, the reservation land was composed of alternating
sections () of land laid out across the desert in a
checkerboard pattern. The alternating non-reservation sections were granted to the
Southern Pacific Railroad as an incentive to bring rail lines through the
Sonoran Desert. A number of streets and areas in Palm Springs are named for Native American notables, including Andreas, Arenas, Amado, Belardo, Lugo, Patencio, Saturnino, and Chino. All of these are common Cahuilla surnames.)
Mexican explorers soldier and explorer
José María Estudillo was the first European to note the existence of
hot springs within the area of what is Palm Springs. As of 1821
Mexico was independent of Spain, and in March 1823, the
Mexican Monarchy ended. That same year (in December) Mexican diarist
José María Estudillo and Brevet Captain José Romero were sent to find a route from
Sonora to
Alta California; on their expedition, they first recorded the existence of "Agua Caliente" at Palm Springs, California. With the
Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo after the
Mexican-American War, the region
became part of the United States in 1848.
Later 19th century Early names and European settlers One possible origin of
palm in the place name comes from early Spanish explorers who referred to the area as
La Palma de la Mano de Dios or "The Palm of God's hand". The earliest use of the name "Palm Springs" is from
United States Topographical Engineers who used the term in 1853 maps. According to
William Bright, when the word "palm" appears in Californian place names, it usually refers to the native California fan palm,
Washingtonia filifera, which is abundant in the Palm Springs area. Other early names were "Palmetto Spring" and "Big Palm Springs". The first European resident in Palm Springs itself was Jack Summers, who ran the
stagecoach station on the
Bradshaw Trail in 1862. Fourteen years later (1876), the
Southern Pacific railroad was laid to the north, isolating the station.
Land development and drought McCallum, who had brought his ill son to the dry climate for health, brought in irrigation advocate Dr. Oliver Wozencroft and engineer J. P. Lippincott to help construct a canal from the
Whitewater River to fruit orchards on his property. when health tourists arrived with conditions that required dry heat. Because of the heat, however, the population dropped markedly in the summer months. In 1906 naturalist and travel writer
George Wharton James's two volume
The Wonders of the Colorado Desert described Palm Springs as having "great charms and attractiveness" and included an account of his stay at Murray's hotel. As James also described, Palm Springs was more comfortable in its
microclimate because the area was covered in the shadow of Mount San Jacinto to the west Early illustrious visitors included
John Muir and his daughters, U.S. Vice President
Charles Fairbanks, and
Fanny Stevenson, widow of
Robert Louis Stevenson. Murray's hotel was closed in 1909 and torn down in 1954. It was expanded as a modern hotel in 1927 and continued on until 1967. Coffman herself was a "driving force" in the city's tourism industry until her death in 1950. James's
Wonders of the Colorado Desert (above) was followed in 1920 by
J. Smeaton Chase's
Our Araby: Palm Springs and the Garden of the Sun, which also promoted the area. In 1924 Pearl McCallum (daughter of Judge McCallum) returned to Palm Springs and built the Oasis Hotel with her husband Austin G. McManus; the Modern/Art Deco resort was designed by
Lloyd Wright and featured a tower. border Palm Springs to the west.The next major hotel was the El Mirador, a large and luxurious resort that attracted the biggest movie stars; opening in 1927, its prominent feature was a Renaissance style tower. Silent film star
Fritzi Ridgeway's 100-room Hotel del Tahquitz was built in 1929, next to the "Fool's Folly" mansion built by Chicago heiress Lois Kellogg. Golfing was available at the O'Donnell 9 hole course (1926) and the El Mirador (1929) course (see
Golf below). Hollywood movie stars were attracted by the hot dry, sunny weather and seclusion—they built homes and estates in the Warm Sands, The Mesa, and Historic Tennis Club neighborhoods (see
Neighborhoods below). About 20,000 visitors came to the area in 1922. Palm Springs became popular with movie stars in the 1930s and estate building expanded into the Movie Colony neighborhoods, Tahquitz River Estates, and Las Palmas neighborhoods. Actors
Charles Farrell and
Ralph Bellamy opened the
Racquet Club in 1934 and Pearl McCallum opened the Tennis Club in 1937. Besides the gambling available at the Dunes Club, other casinos included The 139 Club and The Cove Club outside of the city.
Shopping district Bullock's, a large upscale department store on
Broadway in Los Angeles, opened a Spanish Colonial-style "resort store" within the Desert Inn complex in 1930. When Bullock's opened a full department store at 151 Palm Canyon Drive in 1947,
J. W. Robinson's, another large L.A. store, took the former Bullock's location and opened its own resort store there. Southern California's first self-contained shopping center was in Palm Springs,
La Plaza (originally Palm Springs Plaza), an on-street, open air center anchored by a small
Desmond's department store, in 1936. The three-level parking garage for 141 cars was an innovation and the largest in
Riverside County at that time. In the mid-twentieth century across the street on Palm Canyon Drive were department stores like
Bullock's/
Bullocks Wilshire ( 151, 1947–1990),
J. W. Robinson's (No. 333, 1958–1987), and
Saks Fifth Avenue (opened October 16, 1959, at No. 490), forming a large shopping district. In 1967 the
Desert Fashion Plaza mall was built,
I. Magnin opened there (closed 1992) and Saks closed its previous location and moved into a new larger store in the mall.
Joseph Magnin Co. opened a department store in the mall in 1969, meaning that together with a
Sears at 611 Palm Canyon Dr., for two decades, downtown boasted seven department stores, plus the
Palm Springs Mall to the east operating from 1959 to 2005.
World War II When the United States entered
World War II, Palm Springs and the Coachella Valley were important in the war effort. The original airfield near Palm Springs became a staging area for the
Air Corps Ferrying Command's
21st Ferrying Group in November 1941 and a new airfield was built from the old site. The new airfield, designated Palm Springs Army Airfield, was completed in early 1942. Personnel from the Air Transport Command 560th Army Air Forces Base Unit stayed at the La Paz Guest Ranch and training was conducted at the airfield by the 72nd and 73rd Ferrying Squadrons. Later training was provided by the
IV Fighter Command 459th Base Headquarters and Air Base Squadron. Eight months before Pearl Harbor Day, the El Mirador Hotel was fully booked and adding new facilities. After the war started, the U.S. government bought the hotel from owner Warren Phinney for $750,000, just over $13,000,000 if including inflation in 2020, and converted it into the
Torney General Hospital, with Italian prisoners of war serving as kitchen help and orderlies in 1944 and 1945. Through the war it was staffed with 1,500 personnel and treated some 19,000 patients. In 1946,
Richard Neutra designed the
Kaufmann Desert House. A modernist classic, this mostly glass residence incorporated the latest technological advances in building materials, using natural lighting and floating planes and flowing space for proportion and detail. In recent years an energetic preservation program has protected and enhanced many classic buildings. Culver (2010) argues that Palm Springs architecture became the model for mass-produced suburban housing, especially in the Southwest. This "Desert Modern" style was a high-end architectural style featuring open-design plans, wall-to-wall carpeting, air-conditioning, swimming pools, and very large windows. As Culver concludes, "While environmentalists might condemn desert modern, the masses would not. Here, it seemed, were houses that fully merged inside and outside, providing spaces for that essential component of Californian—and indeed middle-class American—life: leisure. While not everyone could have a Neutra masterpiece, many families could adopt aspects of Palm Springs modern." Hollywood values permeated the resort as it combined celebrity, health, new wealth, and sex. As Culver (2010) explains: "The bohemian sexual and marital mores already apparent in Hollywood intersected with the resort atmosphere of Palm Springs, and this new, more open sexuality would gradually appear elsewhere in national tourist culture." Palm Springs was pictured by the French photographer
Robert Doisneau in November 1960 as part of an assignment for
Fortune on the construction of
golf courses in this particularly dry and hot area of the Colorado desert. Doisneau submitted around 300 slides following his ten-day stay depicting the lifestyle of wealthy retirees and
Hollywood stars in the 1960s. At the time, Palm Springs counted just 19 courses, which had grown to 125 by 2010.
Section 14 evictions Section 14 is a square mile of land owned by the
Agua Caliente Band of Cahuilla Indians within close walking distance of downtown. Former residents in this area, mostly black people and other people of color, lived on land leased for short terms from individual Indigenous owners. Commercial development did not occur due to the 10 year limit on the leases. After changes in the Indian Leasing Act in 1959, long term leases were permitted. Mayor
Frank Bogert and other city officials advocated to the conservators that managed the tribe's leases to end the short-term leases and enter into long-term leases to largely white property owners for redevelopment. City funds were used to clear the land for redevelopment, including burning "shacks and makeshift homes... [which had] rented for $20 to $40 a month." In 1968 Loren Miller, Jr., assistant California Attorney General, called the displacement a "city-engineered holocaust", depriving dozens of black and Latino people of generational wealth. After existing non-Indian residents were evicted in the 1960s, the tribe built the Spa Hotel and Casino downtown and the city built the
Palm Springs Convention Center; also, the tribe leased land for developers to build hotels and condos. The tribe had collaborated with the city in evicting the residents and destroying the structures, with tribal allottees and conservators signing burn permits and Tribal Chair Edmund Siva sending a letter to the Palm Springs City Council thanking it for its "clean-up campaign". The Palm Springs Human Relations Commission cited this history, as well as a conflict of interest while Bogert acted as conservator for tribal land which was being demolished by the city, and racist comments regarding the "poor Blacks" who lived in Section 14, as justification for removing a statue of Bogert on horseback placed in 1990 in front of the Palm Springs City Hall. The City Council of Palm Springs ordered its removal in 2021 and formally apologized for the eviction of the Section 14 residents. After legal objections to its removal from Bogert's supporters and family members were rejected by the courts, the statue was relocated on July 13, 2022. The city of Palm Springs approved a $5.91 million settlement for verified Section 14 residents and their heirs, as well as committing to other programs intended to benefit the Black community.
Year-round living Similar to the pre-war era, Palm Springs remained popular with the rich and famous of Hollywood, as well as retirees and Canadian tourists. Between 1947 and 1965, the
Alexander Construction Company built some 2,200 houses in Palm Springs effectively doubling its housing capacity. As the 1970s drew to a close, increasing numbers of retirees moved to the Coachella Valley. As a result, Palm Springs began to evolve from a virtual ghost town in the summer to a year-round community. Businesses and hotels that used to close for the months of July and August instead remained open all summer. As commerce grew, so too did the number of families with children. The
recession of 1973–1975 affected Palm Springs as many of the wealthy residents had to cut back on their spending. Later in the 1970s numerous Chicago mobsters invested $50 million in the Palm Springs area, buying houses, land, and businesses. While Palm Springs faced competition from the desert cities to the east in the later 1980s, it has continued to prosper into the 21st century. Palm Springs (as well as surrounding areas) became a desired destination as the
COVID-19 pandemic began; the city saw an increase of residents from larger cities like Los Angeles, San Francisco, and Seattle, with new residents seeking less dense areas from which to work remotely.
Spring break at Plaza Mercado Since the early 1950s the city had been a popular
spring break resort. Glamorized as a destination in the 1963 movie
Palm Springs Weekend, the number of visitors grew and at times the gatherings had problems. In 1969 an estimated 15,000 people had gathered for a concert at the Palm Springs Angel Stadium and 300 were arrested for drunkenness or disturbing the peace. In the 1980s, 10,000 or more college students would visit the city and form crowds and parties—and another rampage occurred in 1986 when Palm Springs Police in riot gear had to put down the rowdy crowd. In 1990, due to complaints by residents, mayor
Sonny Bono and the city council closed the city's Palm Canyon Drive to spring breakers and the downtown businesses, normally filled with tourists, lost money.
Today Tourism is a major factor in the city's economy with 1.6 million visitors in 2011. Events such as the
Coachella and
Stagecoach Festivals in nearby
Indio attract younger people, making greater Palm Springs a more attractive area to retire. Following the 2008 recession, Palm Springs revitalized its Downtown, "the Village". Rebuilding started with the demolition of the Bank of America building in January 2012, with the
Desert Fashion Plaza scheduled for demolition in 2013. In 2020, Christy Holstege became the mayor of Palm Springs, which made her the first openly bisexual mayor in the United States, as well as the first female mayor of Palm Springs. The following year,
Lisa Middleton became mayor, making her the first openly transgender mayor in California history. The movement behind
mid-century modern architecture (1950s/60s era) in Palm Springs is backed by architecture enthusiasts, designers, and local historians to preserve many of Palm Springs' buildings and homes of famous celebrities, businessmen, and politicians. Stores sell furniture and gifts that feature a mid-century modern theme. The city holds a
Modernism Week celebration every February, along with several related smaller events during the year. According to a 2021 study done by Visit Greater Palm Springs, Canadians own 7% of second homes in the valley, far more than any other country outside the U.S. A 2017 study found that 303,600 Canadians visited the valley that year, spending more than US$236 million, and impacting every sector of the economy. ==Geography==