Medina of Fez The historic city of Fez consists of Fes el-Bali, the original city on both shores of the
Oued Fes (River of Fez), and the smaller Fez Jdid, founded on higher ground to the west in the 13th century. It is distinct from Fez's now much larger
Ville Nouvelle (new city). Fes el-Bali is the oldest continuously inhabited
walled city in the Arab world, and one of the largest and oldest urban
pedestrian zones (car-free areas) in the whole world. It is the site of the famous Qarawiyyin University and the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II, the most important religious and cultural sites, while Fez el-Jdid is the site of the 195 acre Royal Palace, still used by the
King of Morocco today. These two historic cities are linked together and are usually referred to together as the "medina" of Fez, though this term is sometimes applied more restrictively to Fes el-Bali only. Fez is becoming an increasingly popular tourist destination and many non-Moroccans are now restoring traditional houses (
riads and dars) as second homes in the medina. In 1981, the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (
UNESCO) designated
Medina of Fez a
World Heritage Site, describing it as "one of the most extensive and best conserved historic towns of the Arab-Muslim world."
Places of worship in Fes el-Bali|alt=Interior of the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II showing elaborate decorative architecture in the Mellah There are numerous historic
mosques in the medina, some of which are part of a madrasa or
zawiya. Among the oldest still standing today are the Mosque of al-Qarawiyyin, founded in 857 and subsequently expanded, the
Mosque of the Andalusians founded in 859–860, the
Bou Jeloud Mosque from the late 12th century, and possibly the Mosque of the Kasbah en-Nouar (which may have existed in the
Almohad period but was likely rebuilt much later). The very oldest mosques of the city, dating back to its first years, were the Mosque of the Sharifs (or Shurafa Mosque) and the Mosque of the Sheikhs (or
al-Anouar Mosque); however, they no longer exist in their original form. The Mosque of the Sharifs was the burial site of
Idris II and evolved into the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II that exists today, while the al-Anouar Mosque has left only minor remnants. the
Chrabliyine Mosque from 1342, and the
al-Hamra Mosque from around the same period. The
Bab Guissa Mosque was also founded in the reign of
Abu al-Hasan (1331–1351), but modified in later centuries. Other major mosques from the more recent 'Alawi period are the
Moulay Abdallah Mosque, built in the early to mid-18th century with the tomb of Sultan
Moulay Abdallah, The Zawiya of Moulay Idris II and the Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani include mosque areas as well, as do several other prominent zawiyas in the city. Elsewhere, the Jewish quarter (
Mellah) is the site of the 17th-century
Al-Fassiyin Synagogue and
Ibn Danan Synagogue, as well multiple other lesser-known synagogues, though none of them are functioning today. The Church of Saint Francis of Assisi, the only Catholic church in Fez, was established in 1919 or 1920, during the French colonial period. The current building was constructed in 1928 and expanded in 1933. Today it is part of the
Archdiocese of Rabat, and it was most recently restored in 2005.
Madrasas built in 1323–1325 in Fes el-Bali|alt=Interior facade of Al-Attarine Madrasa, showing ornate decoration The al-Qarawiyyin was established in 857 by
Fatima al-Fihri, originally as a mosque, now a university. It is the oldest existing and continually operating degree-awarding educational institution in the world according to
UNESCO and
Guinness World Records. Sultan
Abu al-Hasan was the most prolific patron of madrasa construction, completing the
Al-Attarine,
Mesbahiyya and
Sahrij Madrasas. His son
Abu Inan Faris built the
Bou Inania Madrasa, and by the time of his death, every major city in the Marinid Empire had at least one madrasa. The largest madrasa in the medina is
Cherratine Madrasa, which was commissioned by the 'Alawi sultan Al-Rashid in 1670 and is the only major non-Marinid foundation besides the Madrasa of al-Qarawiyyin.
Tombs and mausoleums (d. 1815) in the
Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed al-Tijani in Fes el-Bali|alt=Interior of the mausoleum of Ahmad al-Tijani showing chandeliers, a decorated gate, and archways Located in the heart of Fes el-Bali, the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II is a
zawiya (a shrine and religious complex; also spelled
zaouia), dedicated to and containing the tomb of Idris II (or Moulay Idris II when including his
sharifian title) who is considered the main founder of the city of Fez. A number of zawiyas are scattered elsewhere across the city, many containing the tombs of important
Sufi saints or scholars, such as the
Zawiya of Sidi Abdelkader al-Fassi, the
Zawiya of Sidi Ahmed esh-Shawi, and the
Zawiya of Sidi Taoudi Ben Souda. The old city contains several major historic cemeteries which stand outside the walls of Fes el-Bali, namely the cemeteries of Bab Ftouh (the most significant), Bab Mahrouk, and Bab Guissa. Some include marabouts or domed structures, containing the tombs of local Muslim saints (often considered Sufis), for example the
Marabout of Sidi Harazem in the Bab Ftouh Cemetery.
Fortifications The entire medina of Fez was heavily fortified with
crenelated walls with watchtowers and gates, a pattern of urban planning which can be seen in Salé and
Chellah as well. The oldest sections of the walls today, on the north side of Fes el-Bali, date back to the Almohad period. Among them is the Kasbah an-Nouar, the
Kasbah Tamdert, and the Kasbah Cherarda. The two other major tanneries are the
Sidi Moussa Tannery to the west of the Zawiya of Moulay Idris II and the
Ain Azliten Tannery in the neighbourhood of the same name on the northern edge of Fes el-Bali. the Dar Saada (now a restaurant),
Dar 'Adiyil, Dar Belghazi, and others. Larger and richer mansions, such as the
Dar Mnebhi,
Dar Moqri, and
Jamai Palace, have also been preserved. The Jamai Palace was converted into a luxury hotel, known as
Palais Jamaï, in the early 20th century. As a former capital, the city contains several royal palaces as well. Dar Batha is a former palace completed by the 'Alawi Sultan Abdelaziz. In 1915 it was turned into a museum of historical art and artifacts, containing around 6,000 pieces. A large area of Fes Jdid is also taken up by the 80-hectare Royal Palace, or Dar al-Makhzen. Its ornate gates built in 1969–71 are the main feature visible to the public. Its grounds are not open to the public, as they are still used by the King of Morocco when visiting the city. Many bourgeois and aristocratic mansions also had private gardens, especially in the southwestern part of Fes el-Bali.
Funduqs (historic merchant buildings) The old city of Fez includes more than a hundred
funduqs or
foundouks (traditional inns, or urban
caravanserais). These commercial buildings housed the workshops of artisans or provided lodging for merchants and travelers.
Hammams (bathhouses) , located at
Place Seffarine|alt=refer to caption Fez has preserved many of its historic
hammams (public bathhouses in the Muslim world) which continue to be used by local people. Examples, all dating from around the 14th century, include the
Hammam as-Saffarin, the
Hammam al-Mokhfiya, and the
Hammam Ben Abbad. A tree-lined park area runs along its middle between the lanes for car traffic. At the avenue's northeastern end is
Place de la Résistance (originally called Place Gambetta), a large
roundabout with a fountain at its center. Further south along the same avenue is Place Florence (originally Place Lyautey), a wide plaza planted with trees and originally designed as a public garden. At the southwest end of the avenue is Place Ahmed El Mansour (originally Place Galliéni). During the colonial period the main public buildings of the city were erected along and around this main avenue. Buildings from this period were constructed in a mix of
mauresque (
neo-Moorish or
Moroccan),
Art Deco, and
Neoclassical styles. On the south side of Place Florence is the
Bank al-Maghrib building, built between 1928 and 1931 by architect René Canu. Nearby, on the east side of Avenue Hassan II, is the Central Post Office building. The first post office here was built in 1925 and 1927 by architect Edmond Pauty, but it was rebuilt and expanded in its current form by architect Emile Toulon in 1946–1947. The
Court of Appeals building, located southwest of the post office, was constructed in 1934–1936 by architects Adrien Laforgue and Antoine Marchisio and it originally housed the Court of First Instance (
Tribunal de première instance). == Culture ==